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<guide>
<header
        access="To access, walk L along the Organ Pipes Track from the junction of the carpark access track, for about 150m to a cut path leading up R (GPS MTW030). There is usually a cairn to mark the spot. Most routes finish on the big ledge at the top of Brown Madonna.&lt;br/>Descent: Most routes utilise the rap station on the ledge at the top of Brown Madonna (50m). A rap station exists higher up at the top of Bert's Fear (15m) that finishes on Brown Madonna ledge."
        acknowledgement="" history=""
        intro="Flange Buttress is a popular crag with a large number of quality routes, a warm, sunny spot, great on a cool day or even in winter. It is the compact reddish buttress that forms the southern end of the Columns. The deep chimney of Brown Madonna flags the RH end and start of Flange Buttress, while Pooch Gully marks the LH end."
        name="Flange Buttress" new="false"
        rock="Dolerite faces and aretes, up to 50m. Quite a few sport routes."
        sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min uphill"/><image new="false"
        number="null." src="Flange Lower Print.jpg"
        width="500">null</image><climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="49m"
        name="Brown Madonna" new="false" number=""
        stars="***">Quality and quantity. Above the prominent deep chimney is a sustained crack and corner climb of gob-smacking brilliance. Climb the chimney to where it narrows before traversing out and up. Continue up the imposing crack line and blind corner to the large ledge and rap anchors. K. Carrigan, G. Child, Feb. 1978.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="55m" name="Pleasant Screams"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="***">Tasmania's 'To Bolt or Not To Be'. The face L of Brown Madonna. (1) 20m 25. Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay. Worth working in its own right.  (2) 35m 26. Continue up the amazing face above past another 12 U's, at 2/3 height move R into Brown Madonna before returning to the line and up to the anchors. It may be worth wearing a helmet for the flakes on the first pitch. S. Edwards, Dec. 1996.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="29 " length="50m "
        name="Pleasant Screams Direct " new="false" number=""
        stars="***">This variant is a single mega pitch that follows the line (and bolts) to the top. Start on the face and climb to a 'rest' about 2 bolts below the hanging belay. Once 'recovered' follow the line of bolts to the top, staying on the face.  S. Parsons, Mar. 2007.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="50m" name="After Midnight"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="***">A modern classic that is consistent quality all the way. Demonstrates what can be done with school holidays and a nickel-cadmium power-pack. The arête between Brown Madonna and Digitalis. Fifteen quick draws required en-route plus something to clip into the abseil anchors. S. Edwards, Jan. 1995.</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="18" length="62m" name="Digitalis" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">A distinctive line with a very unlikely traverse. Start at the first crack system around the arête L of Brown Madonna. (1) 26m. Climb the crack past small overhanging chockstone and continue past large flake to belay at base of corner. (2) 36m. Bridge and jam the corner for 25m. From 1m below a bush in the crack, traverse boldly out L across the wall. Continue up, trend L along a ledge, and up past large loose flake to belay. Descent: scramble R to the rap station at the top of Brown Madonna. J. Moore, R. Williams. FFA: D. Bowman, M. Steane, Dec. 1977.</climb>
<climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" name="The Cuts" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">A brilliant and intimidating line on the arête and face between Big Sticks and Beatings and Digitalis. Step L off the ledge at the start of Digitalis to head up face to arête at 15m. Continue up just R of arête through thin moves (crux), then run it out to the small ledge. Climb the corner above which merges with Digitalis (1/2 - 3/4 cam important) or alternatively traverse L along ledge, around arête to the bolt belay on Neon God. Face and Arête: D. Stevenson, J. Otlowski, 1996; Corner: H. &amp; M. Jackson, Mar. 1998. </climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="21" length="40m" name="Big Sticks and Beatings"
        stars="**">A sustained excursion up the wall R of Neon God. Climb the thin crack moving R at 10m to pass the thin section. Continue up and climb the shallow corner, then traverse R to Digitalis. Abseil off or continue up Digitalis. N. Deka, S. Bunton, 1989.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="50m" name="Neon God" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="***">Simply irresistible! Join the mob. (1) 25m 22. The popular 1st pitch follows the straight line of U-bolts on the wall to the R of Fiddlesticks. (2) 25m 25. The second pitch is better, but is climbed less. Continue up the line past a thin and technical crux at about one third height. Rap anchors. S. Edwards, Jan. 1997.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="25m" name=" The Holy Road"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">A less demanding RH alternative to the second pitch of Neon God. The crux is passing the second U-bolt. R. Parkyn, Jan. 1997.</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="14" length="55m" name="Fiddlesticks"
        stars="***">Sees a lot of traffic. One of the relatively few quality easier climbs on the Pipes and a classic. Its sunny aspect adds to its attraction. Start 16m uphill and north of Bert's Fear, next to Neon God. Scramble up to the base of the corner containing twin cracks. (1) 30m. Straight up the corner and belay in the notch. (2) 25m. Either climb the flakes on the wall and traverse R into the main crack line or step directly into the line from near the belay. Follow the line until you either step around the arête to climb the LH wall or continue up the vee-groove to a large ledge and Brown Madonna rap station. Very classy climbing. T. Terry, G. Wyatt, 1967.</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="21 " length="30m" name="Stick To It "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Climb the first pitch of Fiddlesticks to small roof on the left wall, at half height. Traverse left, pull through roof then follow thin cracks above. D. Gray, May 2004.
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m"
        name="Chop Sticks The Sequel" new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Start at the base of Fiddlesticks and climb the L arête. Straightforward climbing past a couple of small to mid size friends and a bolt leads to the Precarious ledge, followed by excellent arête climbing on good rock (one of the bolts is around on the RH face but stay on the arête). Take a large wire or 0.5 Camelot for higher up. DBB on final pillar. First 8m climbed by H. &amp; M. Jackson, Jan 2000, (as Chop Sticks 18). A. Williams, D. Gray, May 2004.</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" name="Precarious" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="***">Persistence always pays off and this route is no exception. Start 7m R of Bert's Fear at a shallow corner. (1) 30m (crux). Climb the corner past an awkward move to a ledge. Step R, organise your "pro" and climb a short face to the next ledge. (2) 10m. Climb L and up to abseil point. A. Keller, M. Tillema, 1969. FFA: I. Baker, D. Bowman, Feb. 1979.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="20m" name="Alex'sThing"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">An unintentional ethical faux pas. The route provides an alternative 2nd pitch to the old classic. (1) Climb the first pitch of Precarious to the belay. (2) Sart on the left hand face of the arête for a few moves then trend left following a line of fixed hangers to the "Fiddle Sticks" ledge. Ether abseil off a large hakea or continue up Fiddlesticks to Brown Madonna rap station. Originally a project of the credited first ascentionist, until his red tag went astray. It received two ascents by the unsuspecting N. Hancock and A. Williams. Credited to A. Wilson, Mar. 2004.</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="12" length="120m" name="Bert's Fear"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Body chimneys are not everybody's cup of tea or are they? The distinct chimney 10m R of the lowest point of Flange Buttress makes for an interesting day out. (1) 20m. Climb the narrow slit-like chimney to a good stance. (2) 25m. Climb up the even narrower chimney on the LH side of the buttress above to access the crest of the ridge. (3) 30m. Follow the broken buttress to a tree and up the steeper wall above to the Brown Madonna ledge and rap station. (4) 45m. Follow the crest of the buttress above to the top. U. Aurelli, D. Cox, J. Fairhall, Mar. 1962.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Spitters" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">A serious undertaking. The scary wall between Bert's Fear and Just a Little Bit Longer. Climb diagonally L on dubious face holds to a flake in the middle of the wall (marginal pro.) Move up to a small roof, pull around this into a groove and then hard moves lead to a corner crack. Continue up wall to belay as for Just a Little Bit Longer. Abseil off from tree. D. Fife, S. Parsons, et al, Nov. 1982.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="Just A Little Bit Longer"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Thought provoking face climbing on loose terrain. The face route about 5m L of Bert's Fear and immediately R of the arête. Climb the thin line for 6m, trend slightly L and head for a spike on the arête (crux). Gear placements among the tenuous flakes do little to inspire confidence, although the gear improves dramatically the closer you get to the spike. Continue up on the other side of the arête for 2m then back R and follow the corner system to belay at a tree. Descend by abseil from tree. S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr. 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Ring of Fire" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Balancy test piece roughly following the arête (on its L face) between Just a Little Bit Longer and Slippery Sensation. A bombproof #3 RP in a groove on the arête protects the crux on an otherwise run-out climb. Continue up Just a Little Bit Longer after the spike on the arête is reached. Descend by abseil from tree. M. &amp; H. Jackson, Mar. 1998.</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="30m" name="Slipper"
        stars="**">Start as for Slippery Sensation. Climb the RH crack for 7m and instead of traversing L into the LH crack, go straight up the wall. Near the top traverse toward the bush on the L. Descend by abseil from tree. K. &amp; P. Robinson, Jan. 1998.</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="21" length="25m" name="Slippery Sensation"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Provides a guaranteed workout. Around the arête L of Just a Little Bit Longer is a thin crack line splitting the steep south facing wall. Climb the RH crack for 7m, move into the LH one and continue up into a scoop. Finger jam through the bulge and continue to just below a bush. Traverse L and around the arête to belay at the U-bolt rap station at the top of Nefarious (25m rap). S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, A. Wing, Apr. 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="25m" name=" Nefarious"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">A quality route for the sport-heads. The arête and face between Pooch Gully and Slippery Sensation. The crux is towards the top (some of the anchors after this are not visible from below). Rap anchors. R. Parkyn, Jan. 1996.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="20m" name="Drama Queen"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Straight up the nose of the minor buttress 10m L of Nefarious. A crack (natural gear) leads up to the arête (3 U-bolts). Rap anchors. S. Edwards, Jan. 1997.</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="8" length="100m" name="Pooch Gully" new="false"
        number="" stars="">A vegetated  route to the top of Flange Buttress. The line can be varied at will. Follow the gully to the rap anchors at the top of Brown Madonna. P. Sands, J. Spinks, Mar. 1962.</climb></guide>