Blog from December, 2005

A few years' ago we did what we thought was the traditional Candlestick route. Half way up the first pitch a local friend of ours arrived to inform us we were on the wrong route. We continued up anyway. We later found out that the first 2 pitches was a relativley new route (climbed about 9 months before us) called 'Nicoles route'.

From the top of the second pitch on Nicoles route we scrambled up a steep ledge to belay near the back of the Candlestick. From here I traversed left a few meters then went straight up a sensational hand/finger crack. This finished with a small ledge, then a short wall to another ledge. At the second 'belay' ledge there were two bolt holes drilled but no bolts. From this belay point the saddle of the Candlestick was reached by walking along the ridge top.

Does anyone have any information on this third pitch? I hope we didn't steal someones route but we did climb it ground/water up thinking we were in new territory. Grade was approximately 17 or 18 from memory, and probably about 20-30m. Excellent all round climb with first two pitches of NR and finishing up the summit of the traditional route.

The Climb Tasmania Selected Best Guide was launched on 10th December with a climbing meet/competition at Hillwood followed by a Bbq, slideshow by Nick Hancock and speech by Peter Jackson. About 50 people attended. The climbing day was a real success. The difficulty comp was jointly won by Jake Bresnehan and Gary Phillips who redpointed the Living End (28). The speed comp was won by Cameron - can't remember his surname, from Hobart, a young climber who raced up a grade 16 on the Chessboard in 22.73 seconds. The gear treasure hunt was enthusiastically pursued by all. Paddy pallin Launceston donated about $1000 worth of gear. Each climber had a list of 25 cryptic clues linked to the guidebook from which they had to deduce the name of the route which had the prize. They had to lead the route and claim a numbered tag on the anchors, which they handed in to redeem their prize.
Peter Jackson gave an inspiring speech reminding us of the reasons why we climb, and what a unique place Tasmania is for climbing which we need to preserve and treasure for future generations. The response to the selected best guide by locals and interstate visitors has been very positive.

from Gerry Narkowicz

I was scribbling some history notes for one of Melbourne's local bouldering areas recently. That got me started thinking about the history and progression of bouldering in Australia and it's lack of documentation.

For Victorian bouldering history, other than a few more detailed snippets about Arapiles, and a little about the development of Stapylton bouldering my knowledge is limited. For other States I know even less!

There appears to be a lack of documented history for a facet of climbing which I personally get alot of pleasure.

Stone Crusade by John Sherman is a great example of a book about the history of bouldering (USA) with photographs, stories and anecdotes filling it's many pages.

Many will think that bouldering is a new game, and won't be aware of the long and proud history of bouldering in this country.

So if people would like to add historic information for bouldering Australia wide (not just Tasmania) I would be very interested to know about it.

Pictures, stories, contacts and anecdotes all welcome.

Thanks Martin