Mt Oakleigh skyline traverse

John,
The ridge traverse does look pretty spectacular. I did a bit of research after seeing it when we did the Overland track this winter but didn't come up with much info. Rod Young put up a grade 20 there somewhere, and he alluded that there may have been some other routes done by others prior to this.

I couldn't find any other info about the pinnacle ridge traverse itself though.

Good luck

Tony weren't you researching Cradle area stuff? I dont have any more specific info, but have always meant to go and do that ridge.

John - will be keen to see your write up when you do it! I reckon there are plenty of other alpine style moderate routes (and also horrible scrub bashes) to be done in the area as well - eg on Ossa, Pelion East and West all from a nice comfortable base at New Pelion hut.

hi there,
here is some info from the CCT circulars in the library:
i think the one from March 77 has a trip report with more info (but i can't remember).

 
#71
Jan 73

Lyle Closs, Brian Kennedy and Jeff Burgess attempted pinnacle ridge of Mt Oakleigh over Xmas/NY break; but were forced to retreat in bad weather.

Sunshine Possibilities: route descriptions for Fern, Vandal

Kempton route

Cataract Gorge: Launceston, report by Robert McMahon
early climbs incl. Casino Quarry, Offal, Seif, Pubic Flash.

Duck Reach: buttress with Bruvvers/Vamp et al is referred to as "Easter Island Buttress"

 
#107
Mar 77

Bare Rock:
Basil Rathbone and Phil Robinson climbed 500ft grade 14 on RH side

Walls of Jerusalem:
attempt at 600' face L of main ascent gully (height reached = 150')

Mt Anne
SE ridge (~1000ft = 300m)
climbed by Phil Robinson and Basil Rathbone

an ascent of Mt Oakleigh Pinnacle Ridge (M. Douglas and C. Viney, Feb 77)
the first full traverse???
noted that: Reg Williams and John Moore has ascended part of the ridge several years ago, but may have traversed off somewhere after an unplanned bivouac.

—
 
like i said, the March 77 issue might have a bit of a trip report.
if it explains the best place to start then that would be handy.
but it'd probably be more fun to just make it up as you go!

enjoy.

Gidday John,

Thought I'd reply on behalf of Tony McKenny.... he is away in the Himalaya. He's not too far away from a computer though, and this is his reply as to your query:

"Al can you post a reply from me to say it was first climbed by Mike Douglas with one bivi back in late seventies or early eighties? Info is in the TCC circulars I think." Looks like Dean has already detailed the same info re March 77 ascent.

So where are you based John? Sydney? And are you indeed the John Stone with whom I had the good fortune to share an ascent of the nose in 83?

Adios amigo

Al (Allan)

Just an update to this.  Dave Chiam and I headed in last weekend.  We camped at Pelion Plains and got an early start on Sunday.  After climbing to the top of Oakleigh via the walking route we descended the gully that runs parallel to the ridge with 2 raps required, the rest was steep loose scree and the final 20 mins fairly thick myrtle scrub that required some effort to get through. This took us 2.5 hours from Pelion plains.   Once at the base we roped up, initially trying to simul the first few pitches but soon found the going harder than expected so pitched it from then on.  Our aim was to stay on the face of the ridge and keep the route direct.  This resulted in the following pitches and approximate grades  1.  40m 15  2. 20m 15 3.35m 18 4. 55m 18 5. 20m 16  to take us to the top of the first pillar.  Some spectacular climbing on reasonably sound rock, the crux pitches of similar standard to Ben Lomond jam cracks.  We rapped of this pillar and climbed the next which had some nasty loose rock and then were unable to rap of the side of choice due to a completely flat top with no anchors.  We ended up rapping back into the descent gully and missing the last pillar due to it's chossy appearance.  We were back on top 6 hours after we left, enjoyed the view and headed back to camp.  A big undertaking but well worth it, the views from the first pillar down into the Forth river and accross to Pelion west were inspiring.

Yes but not particularly good ones, will check.  It turns out the ridgeline you see from the Pelion hut is actually a minor ridge that hides the "real" one and includes a stepped first pillar and then a close to 100m high secondary one.  Neather of these were accessible from the ridge we followed which is better viewed from Pelion Gap and highlights how far down into the valley the rock extends.  We initially though we may have been off route untill coming accross the ancient tat of the FA party on both the pillars we climbed.  We suspect the first party made use of some of the more vegetated easier angled rock on the side of the ridge, either that or they were a lot braver than us considering they didn't have the use of the modern gear we had, as in plenty of no 2 and  3 BD cams!!!