Blog from October, 2008

The new Ben Lomond guide is now available. email gerry.narkowicz@bigpond.com to order your copy. $44.95 includes postage. Alternately, pick one up for $40 at the launch on Friday night in Lonny, or Sat Nov 8th 7.30pm at the Climbing Edge

An open question to the world,

Sally J are you ever going to step out from behind your non-de-plume and into the light of day?

Some folk think they know who you are, but don't want to spoil the give the game away. Call it lost opportunities if you like...

Personally I admire your desire for anonymity. Besides there's more fun to be had playing detective?

So who is the real Sally? Are you lad or lady? A crusty old traddie perhaps or a latter-day sporthead? Where do you belong? Past-tense has my money on it.

Guess there's more to come regarding this elusive lady. Fellow climbers, put your guessing hats on and enter the fray.

Adios

Al

Bolting Wars: Episode 316!

Well folks, it's that time of the year again. So send the wife to the kitchen, put the kids to bed, feed the dogs, grab a longneck and settle in for episode 316 to unfold...

Once upon a time, someone created the rotary hammer drill, which changed things for good.

This time the story is in the south of the equator at a GPS coordinate of 42°53′57″S 147°13′57″E Not at our beloved Ben Lomond area.

So. Word on the street some people are a bit unhappy with some of the bolts I have been injecting into the organ pipes. Which is a fair call. Well sort of, depends on which book you play the rules by. I have been approached by a fellow rock climber, that maybe I should think about it a bit more and consider others. I have been thinking of what he had to say, and that's why I am writing episode 316! If you have a problem, please say, because I do really respect your opinion, I do not want to ruin the wonderful place we have. I think we (southerners) can communicate as normal people to make the organ pipes live on.

Bolting is not easy, and I if could find an amazing line on trad gear I would be all over it.

I have decided to paint my bolts on the battlements pillar, and on the new one, I have bolted next to double central column. And, no I will not be keeping the theme of painting big blue dots next to them like the rap chains at the top of exit entry, I was thinking of a darker colour that will blend into the rock.

The next thing I am throwing out there is, what do people think about the slack lining bolts???

I have injected 3 bolts opposite Albert's tomb, to create one of the coolest most extreme things the mountain has seen since Henry Barbers on sight soloed double central column.

After rope soloing the sentiel ridge on the weekend, I also found that they were close/on route. This was not my intention. However, yep. They are. My fault. One thing is that they are in stupidest place for the climb, and really no way in all would they make it safer, actually more annoying for people to belay there. Oh well have a think about it.

I do not want to destroy the history or the future up. Therefore, I would like to hear what young and old have to say.....

So that's about it for episode 316, sorry for ending it so soon, I know you were just getting into it. But I am sure, there will be more to come in the wonderful island that we have.

Take care a safe climbing.
"Many people will probably be content with climbing the established classics. For others the history is far from ended".

Peace Jake

From Phil Robinson:

I left my helmet at the top of Split Column the other w/e and it is not there now.
Any chance of putting a notice on thesarvo please?
e.g.

If anyone has seen a white helmet at the top of Split Column please contact Phil (or Kim) Robinson.
Left there Sunday 5th October.

Cheers
Phil

Of course if the wind blew it over the cliff it won't be much use!

6226 2483(w)
6223 6217(h)
0437 450 440(m)

When I was out at Cape Huoy on Friday walking with students, we noticed a Tyrolean set up on the Totem Pole. Does anyone know how long it has been there and why it's still there?

hi folks

just wondering if anyone knows of climbing on Mt Oakleigh beyond the little notes in thesarvo guides? The skyline traverse looks fantastic and we are hoping to get there this summer. There is a Rock article by Lyle Closs that suggests it might have been done...???

John