Bolting Wars: Episode 316!

Well folks, it's that time of the year again. So send the wife to the kitchen, put the kids to bed, feed the dogs, grab a longneck and settle in for episode 316 to unfold...

Once upon a time, someone created the rotary hammer drill, which changed things for good.

This time the story is in the south of the equator at a GPS coordinate of 42°53′57″S 147°13′57″E Not at our beloved Ben Lomond area.

So. Word on the street some people are a bit unhappy with some of the bolts I have been injecting into the organ pipes. Which is a fair call. Well sort of, depends on which book you play the rules by. I have been approached by a fellow rock climber, that maybe I should think about it a bit more and consider others. I have been thinking of what he had to say, and that's why I am writing episode 316! If you have a problem, please say, because I do really respect your opinion, I do not want to ruin the wonderful place we have. I think we (southerners) can communicate as normal people to make the organ pipes live on.

Bolting is not easy, and I if could find an amazing line on trad gear I would be all over it.

I have decided to paint my bolts on the battlements pillar, and on the new one, I have bolted next to double central column. And, no I will not be keeping the theme of painting big blue dots next to them like the rap chains at the top of exit entry, I was thinking of a darker colour that will blend into the rock.

The next thing I am throwing out there is, what do people think about the slack lining bolts???

I have injected 3 bolts opposite Albert's tomb, to create one of the coolest most extreme things the mountain has seen since Henry Barbers on sight soloed double central column.

After rope soloing the sentiel ridge on the weekend, I also found that they were close/on route. This was not my intention. However, yep. They are. My fault. One thing is that they are in stupidest place for the climb, and really no way in all would they make it safer, actually more annoying for people to belay there. Oh well have a think about it.

I do not want to destroy the history or the future up. Therefore, I would like to hear what young and old have to say.....

So that's about it for episode 316, sorry for ending it so soon, I know you were just getting into it. But I am sure, there will be more to come in the wonderful island that we have.

Take care a safe climbing.
"Many people will probably be content with climbing the established classics. For others the history is far from ended".

Peace Jake

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6 Comments

  1. Jake ... it's good to see ur enjoying ur 'fully sick' puberty .

    .

  2. It is refreshing to see an openness in your post Jake.. I did SR on the weekend also and I'd love to discuss the slack line bolts and their placement. I'd rather do it in person or via phone though. This medium is sometimes unhelpful... in communicating thoughts. Give us a bell.... I am at work Wednesday and Friday this week. Ph: 62332685 or leave me a message with your contact details on al.adams@development.tas.gov.au and I'll contact you.

    Cheers

    Al

    PS: Are we ever going to see Sally's "coming out' party?

    1. I also did Sentinel Ridge on the weekend, and I didn't think that the bolts really changed the nature of the climb (though having said that, I hadn't done the route pre bolts). You still have to climb up that ugly chimney and place gear behind dodgy flakes, so the bolts don't really change the experience in my opinion.

      Obviously they look a bit of out place in the middle of an alpine adventure route though.

  3. .

    ...damming...logging ...bolting ... yep ... that sounds like 'development.tas.gov'...

    There will be plenty of fush 'n' (wood)chups at the 'party' for u , Allan ...

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    >>> I do not want to ruin the wonderful place we have.

    U had too many longnecks(rednecks),Jake ? U prolly meant ur syntax to be : '...we have ruined the wonderful place we want ...'

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    >>Obviously they look a bit of out place in the middle of an alpine adventure route...

    ...yeah but they look 'wicked',Cameron ...

    .

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    http://www.cwo.com/~lucumi/truganinni.jpg

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    1. Jake :

      '...well i think this all started when a few of us were keen to get the petrol drill cranking and put up some amazing routes. mainly keen on the stacks bluff area. then the question came up about the bolts on frews flutes. if there is bolts (even for a rap) why can't we put them in to climb. so we asked the question is it Bolts or No Bolts. my mind has changed so much on this topic. Gerry did the correct thing. this state has so much god damm rock why f*&k the ben...'

      Jake ...it's not going to ' f*&k ' it ,if we do it properly , eh ... might take some pressure off the Pipes ...