Blog from August, 2010

Southern Suckers

This has all been very amusing. All I was after was Jake's corrections to our Ben guide update. There's a route in the North Esk I put up in 1982 called `Southern Suckers'. Those who responded to this thread ought to go and repeat it. The name says it all.

Lost shoes - Mt Brown

Hey all,

it's more like forgotten shoes, rather than lost. Went up to Paradiso yesterday and left some yellow mammut 'goblin' shoes on top of shock wave. If anyone is headed out that way we could a trade for beer, or wine, hugs or even a rather quirky poem. They answer to names "edgy and dodge foot" respectively (left to right). There is also a 4 years curse on anyone who just booties them, the effects of the curse are way to hideous to post on such a nice site. If anyone succeeds in finding my beloveds please call me on 0425 743 797 or sms 'you owe me beers' to the same number


Sam 'distressed and bare footed'

Hi just moved up to the north-west coast and need a climbing partner if anyone is about?



Cam repair

Hi all-

If you have any cams with wires frayed or broken, I can fix most types of cams.  I brought my Nicopress swager stuff (from my old A5 days) back from the US this time.  I might need to charge a few bucks for materials for each fix.  I live out in Cremorne.  Send me an email at

I'm looking to replace the old slings on all my cams--they're probably 20 years old.  Anybody got a industrial bartacker and a good selection of new webbing of various colors available?


On May 31st Jake said the Ben Lomond update had incorrect topos and descriptions. In 3 months since then he has not provided me with corrections. I assume he's talking about the couple of routes he put up on the Laendler face. There's a reason why we didn't do those lines back in the 80's. We only bothered to do the best looking lines. We must have walked past the Laendler face hundreds of times and dismissed Jake's lines; discontinuous wide cracks up a broken looking face. If you want to climb shitty wide cracks, get the correct descriptions off

Climbing shoes found at waterworks quarry (Hobart) at 4 pm 14/08/2010.

I'm trying to get them back to their rightful owner, give me a call on0432969325and provide a description of the shoes.

Then we can arrange a pickup, I live in South Hobart.


Off to Italy end of next week. Have Classic Climbs in Dolomites book (aka Classic Crowded Climbs book). Wonder if anyone has other guides to the area we could borrow or can recommend any particular sports/trad  (not too hard!!)  climbs. Cheers


PS Would look after guides with great care of course.

Still Waiting Jake

Hi Jake, still waiting on your corrections for the Ben Lomond guide update. I'd also like to know why you thought it was a rushed job. You also implied some of our previous guides were also rushed, which is perplexing considering it took 2 years solid work for the Ben Lomond guide. cheers, Gerry

Winter news

A good news round up over on Whipper by Jake:

And now for a bit of news from the Apple Isle:
Well, some might think that winter is Tasmania is a right off. Think again. Lately Tasmania has been experiencing some crazy good weather and with a small psyched crew things have been going down. So far this winter, Simon Young stopped talking the talk and managed to send his 2nd 28, Power of the Peculator (his first was the trad rotue Animal Instincts Direct). Will Bartlett, in between getting drunk off 1 sip of beer and updating his status on Facebook, pulled the top rope down and sent Ferret on a Leash (27). Alex Lewis, back from his first trip to Yosemite with ascents of the Nose and Lurking Fear also sent Ferret on a Leash (27) but was thirsty for more. He cleaned up a super trad line at the Star Factory, tried by many, but never put to rest. It’s a pity he gave such a strong performance on a strong line and gave it such a pussy name: Total Eclipse of the Heart (28). Jonathan ‘JC’ Clearwater made a quick visit for a job interview from New Zealand and managed to sneak a quick ascent of Power of the Peculator (28) onto his CV.
Tassie has also received a new import all the way from America, Mark Polinski. Unfortunately Mark is based in Launceston doing a PhD in aquatic things. From the look at Mark’s score card he is no stranger to pulling down hard, with numerous 8c routes under his belt. He was last seen working right to left at the Star Factory. So far he has already managed to send Street Fighter (28), Soft Option (28), Street Fighter 2 (29) in a couple of weekends. And at his local crag Hillwood he has already dispatched the hardest climb, The Living End (28) and pulled a few holds off around the place. It will be interesting to see if he busts a drill out and develops some more hard routes.
Jake Bresnehan managed to escape from the terminal inside his computer to repeat some more Star Factory classics. Back Yard Surgery (29) and Simply The Best (28). Closer to Hobart, Callum Hylander decided to put on a rope to get fit for a up coming competition and in the process dispatched Blade Runner 28, at Neika.
On the bouldering front, James Scarbrough continues to dig out new boulders after new boulders, in between giving detentions to his students. His best addition of late was Eco-Terrorist Assis V11 at Handsome’s Crag near Hobart. Upon hearing of the quality of some of blocs up at Handsome’s, Callum Hylander was seen fleeing the grandmas on the croquet pitch and made quick repeats of Nilaavu V12 and Uprising V11. Jake Bresnehan and Sam Edwards managed to send one of Hobart’s new classic boulders, The Book Thief V10. Sam also made a quick trip to the Grampians to try his next amazing project, but quickly jumped on a plane home and hopped straight back on the Rocket Wall after realising that he has a bit of training to do if he wants to actually pull some moves instead of just brushing holds.
In other news Doug McConnell, probably the 2nd weakest guy alive (after Deano) managed to repeat the classic of classics: Punks in the Gym (32) at Arapiles. This was an awesome effort for Doug who has had a pretty bloody good year out on the rock. Go Doug! After the ascent, Doug was seen selling all his climbing gear in the pines campground (“I can retire happily now”) and walking to Natimuk with a carton of beer on his shoulder… He obviously got so drunk that night that the next morning he forgot he had quit climbing, and promptly waltzed up Ethipoia (30) with a ‘bit’ of a hangover.
Not a bad effort at all.