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Blog from November, 2013
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The Wellington Trust team have stabilised the track under Centaur on Northern Buttress . A large boulder on the track came away after winter, leaving an area likely to quickly deteriorate further. The team have re-built it to minimise further erosion - a neat job, thanks, guys.
NorthernButtressAfter (Medium).jpgNorthernButtressBefore (Medium).jpg
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Went to the Tyndalls by myself last weekend to suss out a new route and scoped a line shown in the attached topo. The anchors and double bolt belays are in and the route is cleaned; now just need to go back and bolt it. Grades on topo are estimate only, based on the shunt of the climb that I did. 105m and pitches of probably 26, 24 and 22. The fixed lines are still in place.
Access: The access described in thesarvo and my new guide is very vague. Without a GPS or compass you will find it difficult, especially if the mist comes down. I have been there before, and I still got lost both on the way there and the way back. Either I am a total dickwit at navigation, or the access notes are not detailed enough. I strongly recommend using the GPS co-ordinates shown in thesarvo. For non-technical savvy old school people like me who don't know how to use a GPS, you will probably get lost. At the top of the hill the track flattens out for 100m or so then starts to descend to the lakes over to the south east. Where the track starts to descend, I suggest setting a compass for east and it takes about 20 mins if you get it right - there is the occasional cairn - the best beta is to look for the peak with the white quartz marking on the shoulder of the mountain which is where the camping cave is. If Adam Donoghue or Garry or any others who have been there can shed any more light on the access, please contribute. If what I have said above is inaccurate, then please correct me.
And the mt wellington road will be closed a fair chunk of the morning.
I couldnt find exact times for the road closures, but it starts at 8 and the time limit for competitors to reach the summit is 11.40am.
Simon and I have have just put this on the right hand side of the front counter at the new climbing gym in Hobart (Thanks Rick!)
Spread the word so we can raise some money :)
Noticed a few crosses drawn with chalk on holds at Hillwood last night. There was one at the Chessboard and a couple at the Dungeon. They seem to be indicating that the holds are loose. Maybe someone out there could shed some more light on this?
I think I lost my wife's!! 2nd Gen Green Camalot 0.75 with Neutrino biner at Lassies wall aweek or two ago. Has pink paint on tumb catch and maybe H on sling. Nick Hancock
The new selected best climbs guide to Tasmania went to print this week and copies will be available in the first week of January. Designed as a guide for visitors and a concise guide for locals, it has 850 routes at our 25 best crags. If you would like to pre-order and pay $40 (inc postage) please email me at narkowiczg@lcs.tas.edu.au, which is a significant saving from the shop price of $49.95. For a preview of some sample pages, see this link.
Use of guide and color coding.pdf
State map of climbing areas.pdf
Centaur, Northern Buttress. Jammed 3 cam just below last crux - left by Erica, a mainland visitor. I can't get it out (wire is broken), Erica says whoever gets it out is welcome to it!
Hey all.
So I've pretty much taken this year off climbing but will be moving down to Tassie in December for a year or so and will be getting back out climbing for sure.
Would be awesome to meet up with some crew and get out climbing.
Local gyms go alright for meeing people or is it pretty clicky? Any decent outdoor town/city training spots that are worthwhile?
As i said, been quiet this year but was trad leading up to 15-16 (limited by the $hit-myself factor) and sport climbing low 20s. Floundering around on Boulders also gets me jibbly bits going. Anything fun pretty much.
Cheers for the help.
Simon