Blog from September, 2014

Contact Phil Robinson (62236217) with description (make, colour, size) if you left a pair of shoes at Freuhauf.

Climbers,

Please get in touch if you have seen dumped tyres or bits of car and engines and other nasties, anywhere above or below the Organ Pipes, or anywhere they may be able to be rolled from the road.

We've had an anonymous report we're seeking your assistance to substantiate. 

Many thanks!

Ben Masterman

Ranger, Wellington Park

0408 517 534

ben.masterman@wellingtonpark.org.au

ps apologies for invading your forum; please advise if there's a preferred way to put this kind of message to the climbing community. Thanks. Ben.

Found a lone quickdraw up the top of Battlements or Split column (can't remember which one I picked it up from)... very scratched up.  Anyone missing one?

Di and I are in Grenoble, getting ready to catch our plane out of Geneva tomorrow, having left our apartment in Briançon after four weeks there. During the past week we saw a real change in the weather, meaning we didn't get quite as much climbing in as we'd have liked - or should I say "As I'd have liked"? Di was happy, as she got to go on a couple more walks.

We had three very enjoyable days out though, which you can read about here if you're interested. This is a place I'd definitely revisit in order to get away from the winter blues in Hobart. There are six different types of rock in the region: conglomerate, gabbro, gneiss, granite, limestone and quartzite. There's something here for everybody: long routes, short routes, bouldering, sport (aplenty), some wild trad (which we didn't sample) and remote big walls. The weather is normally pretty reliable compared to either Chamonix or the Dolomites. Great food too.

Hi All,

I went to submit the form to get access to the Proctors Rd. Quarry today for a club trip and got told that the quarry is currently off limits. The explanation given was that the anchors need to be checked as the uni needs to make sure it's above board to hire out to external parties. The club hadn't been contacted about this prior. 

Me and Tommy will try to get all the details and keep people posted about what's going on. In the meantime if you have any questions please contact either me or Tommy, please don't contact the uni directly, we don't want to get into trouble for shit stirring again. Also if anyone has been contacted by the uni regarding 'checking the anchors' please let us know.

Great Tier Lower Buttress

Elementary Jam                26m   14

The now obvious crack 2-3m R of Kabling.

Climb the crack past ledges at 5m to perfect hand jamming where it steepens. Continue straight up the corner to behind the Zephyr pillar and a further 5m to belay. Scramble off R. and down the ramp.

Phil and Kim Robinson   13 Sept. 2014

Another new one at Teapot Rocks, which now has 17 good sport routes between grade 19-27. A great day to be had here. See Climb Tasmania for the full guidebook.

Profana-tea 12m 24 **

On the furthest buttress west, about 30m past the main amphitheatre is a neat grey wall with a shallow corner. Technical and pumpy face climbing.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz 30/8/14

APPETISER BUTTRESS

Over the hill from New Horizons Buttress and facing the Township Creek Gorge is a neat buttress with potential for several good routes. It would be pointless trying to describe the location as it is complicated, a bit remote and probably destined for obscurity and our enjoyment only. But worth a trip if you wuld like a guided tour.

Appetiser 12m  23  **

A bolted face with superb thin climbing. FA: Ingvar Lidman 23/8/14

Castello Blue  12m  21 **

The excellent finger crack on trad gear. FA: Gerry Narkowicz and Ingvar Lidman 23/8/14

Di and I are spending a bit of time in the Haute Alpes region after walking the GR54. We have been mixing some longer routes with a bit of cragging. Eight days of climbing so far; we've been very lucky with the weather. Yesterday we visited a lovely little gabbro crag situated in alpine meadows at about 2600 metres asl. It's the first time we've climbed on gabbro and it was delightful. Nothing hard, but a great day out. You can read about it here if you're at all interested and think you might visit this area. some time in the future.

Tomorrow, if all the stars align we hope to do an 11 pitch route at Ailfroide that's graded 5c+, or about 17 in the Ewbank system, nicely sustained at the grade.

Cheers

Doug

The thesarvo app is now available for Android here:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thesarvo.guide

It's got basically the same functionality as the iPhone / iPad one:

• Offline copies of all the guides (climbing & bouldering)
• Search
• Topos
• Maps

It's free in the Play Store for the time being as it's in beta.

It runs on Android 4.0+, which should be all recent decent Samsung, HTC & Google phones.

It's been written by Karl Malakoff based off a proof of concept I did earlier in the year. Karl's done a great job of running with my half arsed job, providing some needed motivation and time, and turning it into something releasable.

We are keen to hear feedback on bugs and improvements, add them here in the comments or log them on github here: https://github.com/jonnermut/thesarvo/issues  

And if you're looking for the ipad / iphone version, thats here: thesarvo iPhone App Now Available

Hey,

If anybody has a lonely crash pad in the shed or under the house, I may be able to offer it a new home....

0409460201

Greetings

Notification has come from Jerry Romanski, the Program Leader of Arbiculture and Nursery for the Hobart City Council, that he and his team intend to inspect the trees above the cliff for hazard potential between 10:00 a.m. and 12:00 p.m. on Wednesday the 10th of September. He asks that climbers stay away from Fruehauf during that time in case rocks might be dislodged from the cliff top during the inspection. Please respect this request and pass on the information to anyone you know who might possibly be thinking of going to Fruehauf for a climb during that short time frame.

Cheers

Doug

Have done 2 new routes at Mad Monkeys.

Tank Jumper (25/26) to the left of Romeo is Bleeding on the King Ryobi buttress

Walking Spanish (25/26) to the right of Goating Around up to the right.

Not sure of the grades exactly so please repeat, both are 2 stars.

See guide for details.

Also re-bolted Goating Around and it shares the anchor of Walking Spanish, so now has lower offs.

James.