Blog from January, 2015

Thinking of a trip this weekend to check out the West Coast crags.  Would like to check out Conical Rocks but obviously the access is epic - drive to the West Coast, Ferry ride (though we might kayak) then walk in.  Wondering whether anyone has done it and has some beta.  Was thinking to catch the ferry in the morning on Saturday, walk into and climb the cliffs Saturday arvo, stay Saturday night then Ferry back out Sunday.  Not sure though whether this is enough time to locate the rock and do a few routes tho?  It seems like the crags are pretty spread out. 

Hopefully someone - Nick maybe? - can advise.  

Got this email from Eric, anybody going to Cape Raoul please take a spanner and some loctite:

Eric Butler <>
to jon
Hey Jon
We just got back from Cape raul and I noticed the expansion bolts on the anchor at the top of pole dancer are very loose. I tightened them as much I could without pliers but they still need a proper job. Do you know someone who will be heading there soon? If not can you suggest someone else I can get in touch with to get it fixed? Thanks

Hi Every One
Im just checking some info here with regards to accessing the candle stick. 
Can you rap from the same Bolts that you access the  Totem Pole with?  If so will a 60 m rope get you down and then allow you enough to do the swim?
Because when you do the Totem Pole there aint much left on a 60m rope!
When I did the Candle Stick years ago (before the mainland bolts) you use to build anchor 10meters lower.  
This use to work on a 60m rope. 

Cheers

Garry

G'day all,

I'm looking for a climbing partner around Launceston this weekend on the 24th or 25th of Jan. I'm happy to climb anywhere, but Ben Lomond would be great. If you let me know by Thursday night, I can even bring a double rack. Generally happy to lead 18 and give some harder things a go anyway.

AJ

alwyn.johnson@gmail.com

0407296569

Flying home tomorrow after 5 weeks in Spain. See this link for the last 8 days climbing in El Chorro

http://climbtasmania.com.au/blogs/news/16745740-el-chorro-spain-trip-report

A small amount of tasman peninsula footage in there, but just generally an awesome demonstration of drone footage:

I've heard a lot of people talking about it but as far as i know no one had done it till now.

On Sunday 11-01-15 Liz and Merry climbed the 3 routes (550 meters) Time Goes Bye, Talk is Cheap and I've Heard It All Before

This is Liz on the first pitch of the day.

Hi All,

ABC filmed us filming Libby Sauter and Garry Phillips climbing the Totem Pole. It should be pretty good!

For those of you who don't know, me and Simon Bischoff are making a climbing movie this summer in Tasmania. The climbing areas in the film will be Mt Brown, Totem Pole, Federation Peak, The Tyndals, Mt Wellington, Cape Raul and the awesome Flinders Island.

You can check out our progress and get involved by going to FB Get A Dog Up Ya or our website www.distilledmedia.com.au .

Cheers,

CJ

See this link for an article and photos of the last 10 days climbing in Costa Blanca, Spain

http://climbtasmania.com.au/blogs/news/16633664-cruising-costa-blanca-classics-spain-trip-report-and-photos

Saw this nice photo of the blade (??) at Cape Pillar with Tasman Island in the background showing the new track work going on out there for the three capes track - by the look of it to the same standard as the new Cape Hauy track. I think the photo is by Geoff Lea.

A blast from the past. Def worth a watch.
An episode of the ABC program 'Sportsnight' documenting one of the first ascents of the infamous Candlestick sea stack at Cape Hauy.

Staring
Glen Kowalik
Les Wood
Mendelt Tillema

The song is a classic!
   Climbing the candlestick.
   That's what makes me tick.
   I'm aiming to get HIGH....
   Sitting up where the eagles fly.

Another cool piece of history from this is the big ledge just below the summit is called 'Thank christ ledge' Named by Reg Williams

Check it out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=My0S68ruxQ8

A new trad. line has been cleaned at the far right of Jelly Wall.

* Humpty Dumpty     30m   grade 14

The line on the wall 2m right of Crucio.

 Scramble up to a small flat rock at the bottom of a hidden corner. Bridge up using big holds to the crack system splitting the wall above. Follow this and climb a short finger crack in the R wall (crux), move L and finish up the crack on the right. At the top go 2m L to belay as for Crucio. Rap off the Black Magic U bolts above (35m).

Phil Robinson, Chris (Basil) Rathbone 2-01-15

Hi looking to do any climbing trad or sport,  although would love to go to Ben Lomond. I am in Launceston area for a bit, have trad rack and car. Been climbing 20 yrs.. mobile is 0423 573 360 

Cheers,

Helen.

hello. my little canon camera went base jumping without a parachute off Japhlion the other day. i couldn't see where it landed. but it seemed most like it would have ended  on the vegetation on the ledge at the base of the route... i rapped off and had a look for it to no avail but i can't imagine it would bounce over the ledge... please keep an eye out for it if heading to japhlion or pniesses. Especially near the veg on far  climbers right of this vegetated ledge as i didn't check so thoroughly there. it was in a grey case  i think with BD biner attached. i doubt it survived the bounces but i'm mostly keen on the memory card and concomittant happysnaps..

muchos besos!