Blog from January, 2016

Rysavy Update

Steve Brown, who  was on the first ascent  back in 1977 and who now owns the farm below, reckons there have been at least 34 ascents of the Ridge this summer (2015-2016) so far. He points out:

  • Many parties are still underestimating the length of time it takes to climb and descend the route and are returning in the dark even with  summer evenings. It is easy to get lost on the route, jam ropes etc etc – take a head torch, start early... and there is NO water on the way up or down.
  • He has a log book at the gate now for visitors to sign and to leave their comments - he would appreciate visitors filling it in, both as a safety precaution, and to read your comments (!)
  • And some climbers are recommending soloing/simul climbing the route – worth remembering it is a mountain route, not a well trodden crag climb, and although overall the rock is sound, there can be (and is) loose rock, dodgy holds, spaced pro, getting lost on harder grounds etc. Probably not a place to lead if Grade 12 is anywhere near your limit or you have little experience of  big faces.

He does also say most people seem to have a great time!!!

Hi guys, FYI - placed some fixed biners, replaced some old fixed gear, removed some old tat etc...

 

Fruehauf anchors: (did this a while ago so most of you will already have seen/used the new stuff)

  • replaced the steel chain and ring above 'General Benefit' with a 316 Stainless Steel chain and two fixed biners of same dimension
  • replaced the chain above 'Play Launch' with a 316 Stainless Steel chain and two fixed biners

 

Sphinx anchors:

  • replaced fixed biner (perma-draw) at the anchor of 'Short, Sharp and Shit Scared' with a 316 Stainless Steel fixed chain and biner (still have the old quickdraw, whoever placed it in the first place can have it back, though I definitely recommend not climbing on it anymore)
  • replaced old fixed sling at anchor of 'Shot, Sharp and Shit Hot' with a 316 Stainless Steel fixed chain and biner (sling was worn 2/3rds the way through)
  • placed two 316 stainless steel fixed biners on stainless steel maillons and chain links on the two U-bolt shared anchor of 'The Pie Man' and 'The Fear Factory'

 

Curry Cliffs rap-station (Bruny Island):

  • Replaced the old tat-station above 'Tandoori' with 4 metres of 316 stainless steel chain linked with a 316 stainless steel maillons connecting the chain ends
    • placed new permanent chain
    • removed old tat (45l backpack full of old tat)
    • removed all other tat atop the Curry Cliffs

*All chains, maillons and fixed carabiners are stainless steel - fixed carabiners used are the Climbing Technology ones available here http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/products/climbing-technology-captive-bar-stainless-steel-wire-gate 

Wherever I placed one of the above fixed biners I used a maillon and chain to build something similar to a steel quickdraw connected to the original bolts.

 

More to come soon,

 

Cheers, 

Tommy

 

Happy Climbing Everyone!!

 

 

 

Just moved to Mersey hospital for a 7week job

 

I have sunday 24th and monday 25th Jan off and also

29th Jan

1st feb, 6th feb

 

if anyone keen to climb roped anything anywhere!

i climb in the 20s and have a car harness and shoes

Dan 0422888846

Jacket found at Ben Lomond

Hi All,

i found a softshell at ben lomond, i'm back in nsw but id be happy to post it. let me know if it's yours.

Mark

Africa Guidebook update

Hi, please check out the new routes done at Africa this summer. Some nice pics by Simon B and Nick Hancock of the action.

http://climbtasmania.com.au/blogs/news/73146757-africa-guide-update

 

From: 

Cawthen, Lisa

Climbers,

 

City of Hobart Bushcare are keen to support the climbing community to care for Hobart’s crags by setting up a Crag Care group.

 

You are receiving this e-mail because you provided input into the Fruehauf plans and might be interested in joining this new initiative.

 

The first project we would like to invite climbers to participate in is:  

 

Fruehauf – Shaping lay out for climbers  

Thursday 21st January 2016

3pm-4:30pm

Climbers work with us to help shape Fruehauf on-ground works to meet your needs as a climber. If you want to join in the on-ground works, this is a great opportunity to register as a volunteer and get involved.

 

This will be followed by a Care for your Crag Clean up Australia Day event, and on-ground works at Fruehauf.

 

Want to know more? Contact the Bushcare team at bushcare@hobartcity.com.au

 

Hope to see you at Fruehauf in January,

 

-          Lisa

 

 

Lisa Cawthen
Bushcare Coordinator | Parks and City Amenity 

16 Elizabeth Street, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia, 7000

Climber rescued on Cape Raoul

http://www.themercury.com.au/news/tasmania/queensland-climber-rescued-from-pole-dancer-on-tasmanias-cape-raoul/news-story/60c04c136848de36d98c72c60df7d866

Queensland climber rescued from ‘Pole Dancer’ on Tasmania’s Cape Raoul

January 6, 2016 9:36am

 

A CLIMBER who fell from a rock pillar about 55m above sea level on the Tasman Peninsula has been plucked to safety by the Westpac Rescue helicopter.

 

Tasmania Police said the climber, a Queensland man in his 20s, was traversing an area known as “The Pole Dancer” at Cape Raoul with a party of four yesterday when he fell about 8m.

The injured climber landed on a small ledge on the eastern side of Cape Raoul and was secured by other members of his climbing party.

The rescue helicopter, which was called out about 2pm, winched a rescue crewman and paramedic to the lofty location.

Police said the patient was treated on the ledge for about an hour in “extremely challenging circumstances”.

Once stabilised, the man was winched into the chopper and flown to the Royal Hobart Hospital in a serious condition.

 

Nasty Spam Attack

Twice in the last 2 days thesarvo has been hit by spammers, wiping out content with shite

I've fixed it all, but for the time being creating new users is off, as that's the easiest way to prevent new attacks.

If anyone desperately needs an account, you can contact me.

There will probably be some outages in the next few days as I upgrade stuff.