Blog from April, 2019

Lost at Fruehauf...

Hi All.

I've lost a titanium wedding ring somewhere between the Fruehauf crag and the car park on the evening of 25th April. Please contact me if you come across it - 0428539198.

Cheers, Alistair.

Hello. Do Tasmanian climbers have an association – not a club – that tackles climbing access issues in national parks, rserves and forests? If so, could you tell me its name and how I get in touch with it, please?

Victorian climbers have just launched the ACA V (Australian Climbing Association (Victoria)). It works like the ACA Q (Australian climbing Association (Queensland)). Both are fully independent associations, formed in each state, run by state climbers for all climbers, fighting access issues in their state. Apparently, the meeting at which the ACAV was launched last night, in Natimuk, was an outstanding success.

If you don’t have an association in Tasmania dealing with access issues, now is a great time to start. If you want some assistance in how to get started, contact the ACAQ president (Dave Reeve) or ACAV president (Mike Tomkins). Here is the ACAQ website (I think ACAV website is nearly ready to go live)

A lot of the essential work for a website, online membership, databases, and a Facebook page, has already been done by both these state associations. And I hear discussions have started in New South Wales for the same thing (Although I’m not sure where that’s up to.)

You can more easily find the “Australian Climbing Association Qld” and “Australian Climbing Association Victoria” Facebook pages than I can post links to those pages (sorry, I did try)

SHORT SUMMARY OF WHAT IT’S ABOUT: each state Association studies the state legislation, policies and government processes that directly affect where we can and can’t climb in national parks and other public lands. This includes cultural heritage law, National Parks law, law governing how bureaucrats manage parks, civil liability legislation, and whatever else pops up on the radar. When necessary, submissions are made to state government to change laws (e.g. the ACAQ was successful in getting the Nature Conservation Act 1991 changed for climbers), and discussions are had with land managers (for example, the ACAQ successfully reasoned with a plantation licensee to keep bouldering access open in Passchendaele State Forest)...and there’s a heap more big access issues that are either resolved or being worked on right now, including working with traditional owners regarding cultural heritage issues. 

Think about joining the fight if you don’t already have an incorporated access association for Tassie. Talk to the presidents of the ACAQ and ACAV - they are unpaid volunteers whom I believe are only too willing to help. The more states on board, each with their own association, the bigger the presence. 

Chris Williams


Hi All. Left my favourite locking carabiner at top of new bolted 18 on Main Wall. Irreplacable nowadays. I'll  buy you a nice beer! Nick Hancock 0438 368657

A bigger issue re: Tasman Peninsula climbing looms. And that is: why aren't more people climbing @ Cape Pillar ? Or Cape Raoul ? 

Like Cape Hauy there is a first-class walking track access to all Three Capes. The road to Fortescue Bay is no longer a vehicle and soul destroying experience. If all that still troubles you then try an arrangement with Bob Pennicott for a drop-off.

Obviously the issue with guide-info is still risky. And the notion of "the scariest sea cliff in the universe" still pervades. Nik Deka described the Chasm Wall as a "shitty little route" in the company of many. He is most welcome to go there and reinvigorate the magic. By foot. Himself.

Successive governments have invested about $50,000,000 in resolving the access issues.

It really is all up to you. Cape Pillar is only a little friendly cliff.  Best Wishes, Dildo