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Acknowledgement | Bluff River is a beautiful place frequented by bushwalkers and the Aboriginal community connecting with country. This particular valley and the gorgetop surrounds were a major migration route for Pore dareme people travelling inland and is thereby steeped in Aboriginal Heritage. The CCT strongly recommends climbers retrain from placing ANY fixed anchors, or hanging out in caves that may have served as rock shelters. Most of the boulders described here do not fit the description of a rock shelter, but boulderers should excercise extreme care before climbing inside cave like features. On all problems the use of mats is encouraged - placing them with care not to disturb the soil. | ||||||
Introduction | The Bluff River Gorge, north of Buckland, has a bunch of OK sandstone boulders. The area has potential for at least 50 problems, but a fair bit of cleaning is required. Unfortunately the lichen is already starting to come back on some of the boulders - the area needs much more traffic. | ||||||
Access | From Hobart drive to Sorell and then take the East Coast Highway towards Orford. At Buckland turn left and drive 12.8km. Turn right on the first road after the road becomes gravel (there is now a cairn here to mark the turn). Drive 1.2km down this road to where a sandy track goes right (there is also now a cairn here to mark the turn). NOTE: it may be you can't drive down here anymore, which really diminishes the attraction... Head down the sandy track for 1.4km. Ignore the first scrappy bits of rock on the left, and go another 100-200m to where you can see some decent sized boulders down to the left, which should be the Trench area. You can park right above the climbing, after about an hours driving from Hobart. |
GPS |
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1. | V0 | (Stand) |
2. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Slab left of flake |
3. | V0 | (Stand) |
★ 4. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Featured slab |
1. | V4 | (Stand) |
1. | VE | (Stand) | |||
Slab just right of tree |
★ 2. | Red Raw | V2 | (Stand) | ||
Start as for no 4 and traverse leftwards across the slab to finish up no 1. |
★ 3. | Pinch Me | V3 | (Stand) | ||
Up face left of tree to top out on bizarre pinches |
4. | VE | (Stand) | |||
Slab right of tree on knobs |
1. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Slab left of arete |
2. | The Radiator | V1 | (SDS) | ||
Up through bulge |
1. | V3 | (SDS) | |||
Start on flats. Up on ears. |
1. | V0 | (Stand) |
2. | Stench Trench | V2 | (Stand) |
1. | V3/4 | (Stand) | |||
Just right of arete on small holds, up to break and top out. |
2. | V? | (Stand) | |||
Project - very thin slab |
★ | V5 | (Stand) | |||
Face directly opposite no 1. on small holds without using the left arete. Move right slightly to top out next to the tree. |
★ 1. | Hornet's Nest | V4 | (Stand) | ||
Project - Start at the big knob 2m left of the arete and traverse the boulder rightwards to finish up no. 5, quite sustained. |
2. | V? | (Stand) | |||
Project - Knobs 1m left of the arete. |
3. | V? | (Stand) | |||
Project - Follow the knobs to the top 1m right of arete. |
4. | V1 | (Stand) | |||
Go up. Top could be cleaner. |
5. | V2 | (Stand) | |||
Up on knobs. |
1. | V2 | (Stand) |
2. | V3 | (SDS) |
3. | V3 | (SDS) |
★★ 1 | V4 | (SDS) | |||
Start in the back of the cave on good side pulls/pinches. Traverse the left side out to crimp rail and up trending left. |
2 | V6? | (SDS) | |||
Start as for 1 but continue moving right across the face and finish up as for Contort. |
★★ 3 | Diagon Ally | V5 | (Hang) | ||
Hang start matched on the diagonal crimp with feet on the left side of the cave, move up and right to finish up the groove. |
★ 4 | Contort | V4 | (Stand) | ||
Stand start with the huge undercling and high little knob. Interesting moves to a slap for the top. |
5 | Project | V8+ | (SDS) | ||
Start under the prow on good holds, move up over the bulge to some seriously hard moves to gain the undercling, finish as for Contort. |
★ 1 | Shlap de Shlope | V4? | (SDS) | ||
Sit start under the steep arete and power up through the slopes and meat hooks to an easy mantle. |
★ 2. | The Bushfire | V4 | (SDS) | ||
Climb up bulgey arete on knobs. |
2a | The Bushfire Stand | V3 | (Stand) | ||
Climb The Bushfire from a stand start. |
★ 3 | Fire For It! | V4? | (Stand) | ||
Start in the hollow with the awesome undercling and really high left ear. Power moves to an easy but committing top out. Sit start to add a grade. |
★ 1. | V2 | (SDS) | |||
Up steep arete |
2. | V2 | (SDS) |
1. | V1? | (SDS) | |||
Arete |
★ 1 | Project | V? | (SDS) | ||
Climb the right arete on slopers. Bring a brush for the lichen. |
★ 2 | Left arete | V6-8? | (SDS) | ||
Climbed sometime in the past, grade and name uncertain. Holds are reasonably clean but a brush is still necessary for the lichen. |
2A | Project | V? | (SDS) | ||
A link up may be possible starting as for 2, traversing and finishing as for 3. |
★ 3 | Centre of face | V6-8? | (SDS) | ||
Problem on small, slopey crimps up the centre of the face round to the left of 1 and 2. Similarly climbed in the past but the name and exact grade are unknown. |