Bluff River

1-5 min
Mixed
Sandstone
Acknowledgement
Bluff River is a beautiful place frequented by bushwalkers and the Aboriginal community connecting with country. This particular valley and the gorgetop surrounds were a major migration route for Pore dareme people travelling inland and is thereby steeped in Aboriginal Heritage.

The CCT strongly recommends climbers retrain from placing ANY fixed anchors, or hanging out in caves that may have served as rock shelters. Most of the boulders described here do not fit the description of a rock shelter, but boulderers should excercise extreme care before climbing inside cave like features. On all problems the use of mats is encouraged - placing them with care not to disturb the soil.
Introduction
The Bluff River Gorge, north of Buckland, has a bunch of OK sandstone boulders. The area has potential for at least 50 problems, but a fair bit of cleaning is required. Unfortunately the lichen is already starting to come back on some of the boulders - the area needs much more traffic.
Access
From Hobart drive to Sorell and then take the East Coast Highway towards Orford. At Buckland turn left and drive 12.8km. Turn right on the first road after the road becomes gravel (there is now a cairn here to mark the turn). Drive 1.2km down this road to where a sandy track goes right (there is also now a cairn here to mark the turn). NOTE: it may be you can't drive down here anymore, which really diminishes the attraction... Head down the sandy track for 1.4km. Ignore the first scrappy bits of rock on the left, and go another 100-200m to where you can see some decent sized boulders down to the left, which should be the Trench area. You can park right above the climbing, after about an hours driving from Hobart.
GPS
CodeDescriptionUTM ZoneUTM EastingUTM NorthingHeightLatLong
BLB010
The Trench
55G
0554996
5292872
0
-42.51457
147.66948
BLB020
Bushfire Boulder
55G
0555105
5292830
0
-42.51494
147.67081
BLB000
Turn off from main road
55G
0553075
5292748
0
-42.51582
147.64611
Show in Google Earth

The Trench Area

The Trench can be found just below where you park.

Trench Top Wall

1. V0(Stand) 
2. V0(Stand) 
Slab left of flake
3. V0(Stand) 
★ 4. V0(Stand) 
Featured slab
To the right is a steeper, higher slab.
1. V4(Stand) 
Further right is another clean slab.
1. VE(Stand) 
Slab just right of tree
★ 2.Red RawV2(Stand) 
Start as for no 4 and traverse leftwards across the slab to finish up no 1.
★ 3.Pinch MeV3(Stand) 
Up face left of tree to top out on bizarre pinches
4. VE(Stand) 
Slab right of tree on knobs

Radiator Boulder

This small free standing boulder is down the hill and across from the previous problems. Needs some more cleaning.
1. V0(Stand) 
Slab left of arete
2.The RadiatorV1(SDS) 
Up through bulge

Smelly Shoe Boulder

The squat boulder 100 metres past the Radiator boulder.
1. V3(SDS) 
Start on flats. Up on ears.

The Wasp Boulder

The Wasp Boulder is the large free standing boulder that forms the bottom wall of the Trench. The first problems are in the Trench.
1. V0(Stand) 
2.Stench TrenchV2(Stand) 
This face is to the right and through the gap.
1. V3/4(Stand) 
Just right of arete on small holds, up to break and top out.
2. V?(Stand) 
Project - very thin slab
V5(Stand) 
Face directly opposite no 1. on small holds without using the left arete. Move right slightly to top out next to the tree.
This face is the bottom side of the Wasp Boulder.
★ 1.Hornet's NestV4(Stand) 
Project - Start at the big knob 2m left of the arete and traverse the boulder rightwards to finish up no. 5, quite sustained.
2. V?(Stand) 
Project - Knobs 1m left of the arete.
3. V?(Stand) 
Project - Follow the knobs to the top 1m right of arete.
4. V1(Stand) 
Go up. Top could be cleaner.
5. V2(Stand) 
Up on knobs.

Fly Boulder

This is the long low boulder to the right of the Wasp Boulder.
1. V2(Stand) 
2. V3(SDS) 
3. V3(SDS) 

Bushfire Boulder Area

From the Trench Area head south across the hill for 100-150 metres to find a group of about 6 free standing boulders.

Bushfire Boulder

This is the largest free standing boulder in the area. The status of this boulder as a possible rock shelter is under discussion with the Aboriginal community and in the meantime climbers are advised to avoid climbing on this one.
★★ 1 V4(SDS) 
Start in the back of the cave on good side pulls/pinches. Traverse the left side out to crimp rail and up trending left.
2 V6?(SDS) 
Start as for 1 but continue moving right across the face and finish up as for Contort.
★★ 3Diagon AllyV5(Hang) 
Hang start matched on the diagonal crimp with feet on the left side of the cave, move up and right to finish up the groove.
★ 4ContortV4(Stand) 
Stand start with the huge undercling and high little knob. Interesting moves to a slap for the top.
5ProjectV8+(SDS) 
Start under the prow on good holds, move up over the bulge to some seriously hard moves to gain the undercling, finish as for Contort.
★ 1Shlap de ShlopeV4?(SDS) 
Sit start under the steep arete and power up through the slopes and meat hooks to an easy mantle.
★ 2.The BushfireV4(SDS) 
Climb up bulgey arete on knobs.
2aThe Bushfire StandV3(Stand) 
Climb The Bushfire from a stand start.
★ 3Fire For It!V4?(Stand) 
Start in the hollow with the awesome undercling and really high left ear. Power moves to an easy but committing top out. Sit start to add a grade.
These two boulders are directly above the Bushfire Boulder.
★ 1. V2(SDS) 
Up steep arete
2. V2(SDS) 
This boulder is just across from the previous ones.
1. V1?(SDS) 
Arete
This boulder is behind and up from the previous one and has two quality, slightly overhung faces. Bring a brush for the lichen. Two lines were done years back by Tommy Krauss and Co but the problems need to be reclimbed to confirm the grades.
★ 1ProjectV?(SDS) 
Climb the right arete on slopers. Bring a brush for the lichen.
★ 2Left areteV6-8?(SDS) 
Climbed sometime in the past, grade and name uncertain. Holds are reasonably clean but a brush is still necessary for the lichen.
2AProjectV?(SDS) 
A link up may be possible starting as for 2, traversing and finishing as for 3.
This is the left hand face of the same boulder.
★ 3Centre of faceV6-8?(SDS) 
Problem on small, slopey crimps up the centre of the face round to the left of 1 and 2. Similarly climbed in the past but the name and exact grade are unknown.
 

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