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A video of an early ascent of the Candlestick: Sportsnight - The Candlestick_(360p).mp4



  1. Curious about the Candlestick route climbed by Mendelt et al in the Sportsnight video. I climbed this in about 1987 or so - as can be seen in the video, it requires climbing directly out of the sea up a shallow corner, and then goes directly up the North face - there is no ledge at sea level. We slept out there the night before to get an early start before the swell came up, to avoid the dangerous conditions Mendelt experienced - it was still pretty exciting. Is Mendelt's route what is described as the Direct Route?

    ★Direct Route100m18  

    Anyone know?


  2. Grant Dixon and I did what we believed was the second ascent of a route called "The Wick", which doesn't appear in this guide. I think this would have been in about 1983. Description for "The Direct Route" sounds a lot like what I remember us climbing, except that we traversed right to get to the line. 

  3. All sorts of routes and access, Chris(Basil) Rathbone and Chris (Ditto) Rathbone, yes there are two of them, unrelated, accessed the Candlestick by tossing across a home made grappling hook on a line between a spike and the cliff. This was from about halfway along the route to the Tote bolts. A kind of dodgy Tyrolean traverse was used to reach what I think might have been the ABC film route part way up. i.e. without the swim. Not sure which is riskier! This was not long after the filmed ascent.