It is worth noting there have been a increasing number of rescues and accidents involving climbers in the modern era, some of which involved inexperience as a factor, so it is important to factor in the exposed and inaccessible nature of all the spires in particular, which makes self-rescue much more difficult. The grade does not always reflect the serious nature of some of the climbing here - so read descriptions carefully and plan well.

Quality ratings of routes are always subjective, and the nature of climbing in the Fortescue area varies considerably (how could you compare any route with an icon such as the Tote?). Keeping this in mind, we have sort of thought..

3*** - A classic. A must-do climb.
2** - Highly recommended.
1* - A good route that's worth doing.
0 - Average, or worse. Or unknown.

The Tasman National Park is a relatively recent addition to the Tasmanian Reserve Estate. The use of fixed anchors in the park historically precedes the designation of the area as a National Park in 1999, where the National Park was then listed broadly as a State Reserve. The current management plan stipulates that 'A ‘clean climbing’ ethic/practice involving the use of lead climbing techniques and removable climbing protection will be encouraged'. The proliferation of fixed anchors in the area and park more broadly is discouraged, as it can degrade the climbing experience. The focus should always be on establishment and maintenance of high quality routes and crags.

Fixed anchor use for climbing across the Tasman Peninsula varies. The climbing around Fortescue Bay and Cape Hauy / Nola is primarily focused around traditional climbing. Crack lines are regular, and the predominant dolerite is reliable for the use of trad gear. Sport routes are sparse, and are usually limited to occasional, very high quality routes. Mixed traditional climbs are generally accepted as routes can often follow separated crack systems between stretches of face climbing. Abseil anchors are placed discretely, often shared between routes, and only installed when required to provide access to routes or reduce inadvertant damage to vegetation at the top of cliffs.

Cutting new tracks is discouraged, as there is the risk of spreading disease (phytopthora) and creating issues with erosion and the obvious impacts on vegetation. Spread out in the bush if needed to access a cliff off established trails, and don't publicise route access outside of regular climbing groups (e.g. social media). The modern era has seen increasing impacts on climbing areas as a result of visitation from other user groups.

IN SHORT:
Please use gear wherever possible if establishing new routes, don't cut new tracks and limit the use of fixed anchors to high-value climbs or discrete access only. Please DO NOT install or modify existing fixed anchors for the convenience of commercial guiding. Please consult widely with the crag stewards if considering the installation of fixed anchors.

There are a number of interesting rock formations in the Cape Hauy area: The Candlestick, The Totem Pole, The Monument and assorted cliffs up to 100m high. It is a very spectacular spot and worthwhile even for just a look. Climbing on the Cape is usually epic and exposed.

The walking track to Cape Hauy starts from beside the boat ramp in the Fortescue Bay Campground, at the right-hand end of the beach as you drive in. The walk takes about an hour and a half. The track is well defined and in very good condition as it has been re-built as part of the proposed Three Capes Walk. To get to the abseil point for the Stick and the Tote, continue past the warning sign at the end of the formed track and follow a pad downhill. It is another 100m or so to the end of Cape Hauy. Follow a rough, slightly overgrown, and sporadically cairned track in the direction of Fortescue Bay along to a profile view of both sea stacks, at a level lower than the Tote's summit. From here you can traverse back across to a ledge within spitting distance of the Tote. Access to both stacks is by abseiling from a DBB here (about 60m).

Boat access to the base of the sea-spires is possible, but water movements through the channels and sudden surges make anchorage rather difficult. Kayaks can be z-pulley-ed out of the water to avoid damage from rock fall.

The Totem Pole is one of the most spectacular pieces of rock on the planet. It is a free-standing dolerite pillar spearing straight out of the water in a gloomy chasm infested with sharks and subject to volatile swell patterns. It is over sixty metres tall, but only about four metres wide at the base. It sways in the wind and shudders with the crash of every wave. The "Tote" is too slender to even be described as a phallic symbol, unless of course you've got a very skinny dick!

The prospect this piece of rock presents the climber is uncompromising and chilling. Equip yourself not only with the necessary gear but also a bottle of bravery pills. The challenge is psychological as much as technical.

See the Cape Hauy overview for details to get the the rap point. Fix a 60m rope to the DBB here and rap into the chasm. What you do next will depend on how big the swell is at the time...

In good conditions, it is possible to stand comfortably on the flat rock at the base of the Ewbank Route. There is a single carrot bolt at the bottom of route which can be used by the belayer for all routes on the Tote if that is the case. Even in moderate swell conditions, however it is subject to wave wash. (RP: I found that wearing bare feet and a waterproof jacket helped).

In more 'elevated' seas, a hanging belay is often employed at the start of the Deep Play Variant First Pitch, just left of the arete closest to the mainland. There is a spacious ledge about 4m off the water opposite the Fortescue Bay facing side that may be used as a base camp for the entertaining operation of penduluming over to the Tote. Taking a stick-clipping device of about 3 m length makes this crossing to this belay easy.

The easiest 'descent' option is to trail your abseil rope to to the top and use it to Tyrolean traverse back to the mainland. If you don't know what a Tyrolean traverse is, or how to set one up, then this is probably not the best place to learn how.

The Candlestick stands behind the Tote. The sea heaving and surging between them caresses the rock walls like a hot lover. The water isn't that hot though, pretty freezing really, but hey, you didn't walk all this way for some kind of disco-party. You lugged all that climbing junk down to this chasm of doom for something far more special - a climbing experience you can really launch yourself into ... bodily.

The crux of the Candlestick is the swim. About 10m of shark-infested, usually surging, water lies between the base of the Tote and the Stick. Send someone else into the water but first give them an end of a rope so they can rig up a Tyrolean. This will minimise the overall wetness of the party. I hesitate to state what should be bloody obvious but someone from Queensland wrote in to say that people should be advised not to swim around the Cape Pillar side to the Tote. Despite the sharp angle the 60m obelisk would put on their rope they were hoping that it would slide smoothly up the Tote as they climbed the Candlestick (until they would be high enough to simply flick it over). They appear to have been surprised when their ropes got caught!

Access:
To get to the abseil point for the Stick and the Tote, at the end of the formed track follow a pad downhill. It is another 100m or so to the end of Cape Hauy. Follow a rough, slightly overgrown track in the direction of Fortescue Bay along to a profile view of both sea stacks, at a level lower than the Tote's summit. From here you can traverse back right across to a ledge within spitting distance of the Tote. Access to both stacks is by abseiling from a DBB here (about 60m). A 70m+ rap line is required to be able to access start of routes (or extend the 60m rope).
There are two ledges on the Candlestick accessible by a short swim from the base of the Tote: (1) A small one to the north that has a double bolt belay with fixed hangers 3m above sea level. This is the start of the NW (The Corner)Route. Jump in and swim left to ledge with U bolts 2-3m above the water. Drag traverse rope across 15m gap and setup Tyrolean or swim.
and (2) a larger one, with no bolts, that is about 20 m south of (1) in the direction of Cape Pillar, behind the Tote, and directly below the actual Candlestick summit.
The Middle Way, the Original (1971) Route and The Wick (1981) start from the larger (southern) ledge. The West Wall is also accessible from here by climbing up The Wick a short way before traversing left.

Descent:
From the summit rap down to the bolts at the bottom of the last pitch. The 40m Tyrolean back requires two ropes and involves a controlled descent as anchors are approx. 20m higher than mainland. It is also possible to rap down to the bolts at the top of pitch 2 of ‘The Original Route’ and set up a Tyrolean from there, although ropes have been known to become stuck from this point.

Loose rock is the norm on the Candlestick so take great care. Look out for those below you.

This large sea-stack is just off to the south of Cape Hauy (clearly visible from the track) was first climbed in 1970 by a Climbers' Club of Tasmania group. This sea-stack is much less popular than the others in the area, perhaps due to the fact that it is not as dramatic looking and is only about 50m high. However, since it is about 100m off shore, it is not any less of an mission to reach the top. Indeed, the tale of the first ascent is yet another grand CCT epic spread over a few attempts.

Prior to the successful attempt, Mendelt Tillema had already swam out to the stack, though his companion (Peter McHugh), who planned to follow in a rubber dingy was not able to make it out to the stack due to the swell. Mendelt swam back to shore and the attempt was aborted. The next time, Mendelt again swam (trailing a rope) to the prominent ledge on the NE corner of the stack. Mike Emery and Ray Lassman tied in the middle of the rope and followed, while Col Hocking held the other end and waited on the mainland should things get messy. McHugh contributed to proceedings by tumbling down the cliff as the start of the day, leaving blood stained rocks as markers for the path to the sea.

From the ledge, the team took the prominent chimney in the corner. This was an 80ft (or 25m) pitch at a grade of "VDiff" (now considered about grade 12-ish), and then a scramble to the top. Upon erecting a cairn they donated some green tights for a flag, though it appears these have long since blown away.

Most (all?) subsequent ascents have utilised a vessel of some sort; either a kayak, or a motor boat (including the second ascent, where they hitched a ride out to the stack on a fishing boat, and flagged down another boat to get a lift back a few hours later!). These days, the sea-stack is perhaps best approached by a kayak launched from Fortescue Bay on a calm day; unless you like swimming, that is.

The following route is on the cliffs overlooking The Momument (I think...).

The following route climbs the steep cliffs overlooking the Candlestick and the Totem Pole, and is accessed by rapping down the route. To get there, follow the Cape Hauy track from Fortescue Bay as for the Totem Pole. At the "Track Ends 50 metres" sign, do not turn off left (as for the Tote), rather go to the end of the track to the rock edge/lookout on the R. Rap bolts are located on the L (looking out), just over the edge. TODO: GPS co-ords.

The raps are: (a) 25m from top (DBB) to a ledge (2 rings + 1 FH), (b) 30m to 2 rings, (c) 30m to 2 FH, then (d) 15m to the bottom ledge, which is huge. NOTE: rap (b) does NOT go directly below the bolts, but instead goes off the other side of the ledge (towards Cape Pillar).

The following route is on the mainland cliffs facing the Totem Pole. Fix a 60m rope to DBB as for the Totem Pole access, but rap diagonally towards Cape Pillar (SE), heading down a scungy corner to a ledge with a DBB belay. Continue rapping down the wall below, L of knife blade arête, to arrive at a small ledge about 5m above the ocean with another DBB.

The Shnaggle Tooth is accessed by turning south onto track at the top of the first set of steps on Cape Hauy, follow the track till it ends after 50m then wander down hill another 50m and look over the east side of the spur to see the Shnaggle Tooth.

This is one of the easiest cliffs to access, I don’t know that the old men’s excuses are for not climbing these. Three towers, one is perfect for the epic, one is to climb and one is to get your picture taken on, what more could you ask for? Please respect the no bolt ethic on these towers.

The rap into the blue fin is the clearing where the small point and monument line up. The cliff faces east on the Monroe's Bight side of Cape Hauy

Unlikely to have seen any repeat ascents. Situated on the near a small inlet about 0.5 km from the end of Cape Hauy, are some superb dolerite sea crags, discovered in March 1989 after a huge swell aborted a Candlestick attempt. To get there, leave the Cape Hauy track at the ridge as you come up from the dip going out to the Cape proper. Walk along the ridge line to the coast (downhill from the ridge the scrub is horrendous!). As you get to the coast you have to bash through some pretty thick stuff for maybe 100m 'til you arrive at the crag. (Editor's note: a boat sounds like a good alternative). Routes are from L to R. The hard looking arête makes a good point of reference.

This section of the guide covers the cliffs and crags within the sheltered area of Fortescue Bay itself. There are a couple of pleasant crags within an easy 20 minute walk of the campsite that provide a fun and relaxed day out.

The original crag in the area (previously known as Fortescue Bay Crag). A quiet, sunny heat trap, right on the sea and with a pleasant rock platform at its base. The crag is about 15-20m high and features many nice cracks and flakes. The rock quality is generally good, but take care of sandy or friable rock on some of the lines. The cliff faces North, and is a warm winter crag, particularly if the sun is shining and the SW winds are blowing. Avoid if Northerly or Eastery winds/swell are forecast.

Approach is from Fortescue Bay. Walk along the Cape Hauy track for about 5 minutes until it begins to leave the coast (don't follow it inland). Drop down to the shoreline and follow this for another 15 minutes to the point where you can't traverse any further (this is the crag). Scramble up the slab to the top of the crag and either abseil from gear or trees, or continue to a short easy (grade 4) down-climb at the far end.

A short distance right there is a small barnacle filled gutter below an easy looking corner. The gutter forms a break between the higher cliffs of the Main Wall on the left, and the smaller wall on the right.

A popular crag only a short walk from the Fortescue Bay camp-ground with an abundance of good, well-protected routes all virtually next door to each other. There are large wave-cut belay ledges facing the Hippolytes and Cape Hauy to bask-on, and it's a magic spot to have a climb & swim on a hot summers day. The rock quality is highly featured and generally OK, though it can be friable in places. The crag goes into shade in the afternoon, and is pleasant year round. Routes listed with a ≈ symbol are best climbed when the tide/swell is low (<0.8m tide is ideal).

This crag is primarily a traditional climbing area consistent with established ethics and guidelines for the area. A recommended rack of gear includes a full set of wires and double rack of cams from #0.3 - #4. Please take great care of the vegetation and practice minimal impact on your visit.

Access is from the Canoe Bay walking track (the same one that goes towards the Moai). From the car park, head North along the beach, then follow the track to Canoe Bay for ~15 minutes.

The South Cliff gets more sun than the North Cliff and has a nice big amphitheatre of rock to bask on. Just before you hit the top of the hill before Canoe Bay, cut-off from the track down to the point on your right following where a large tree has fallen over through the bush down to the waters edge. Rock-hop around the water-line towards Canoe Bay and you will come to the southern crag.

There are some short boulder problems on the approach to the crag that have been done - awaiting someone to write the better lines up. Please do not install fixed anchors at this location.

The North Cliff loses the sun around midday and is slightly taller. The rock is arguably of better overall quality here as well. Towards the bottom of the hill coming into Canoe Bay, cut right down to the waterline through the bush and traverse the shore towards the South, heading away from Canoe Bay. There's a careful sea-level rock hop required at the last section to get to the crag. If the tide/swell comes up during your visit, it's possible to escape back to the track by climbing a grade 6 exit scramble right of 'Bogans in Boats', then walking shortly through the scrub back to the track.

The next few climbs finish on a pleasant rock ledge, a good spot to stop for lunch. Use the DBB set-back from the ledge to belay and abseil from. This buttress is swell and tide affected - climb at low tide with a low swell.

There are some boulder problems at the start of the approach to the crag (about 4-5m high) that are worthwhile. Some of the more obvious lines have been solo'd but not written-up. Please do not install fixed anchors at this location.

The North side of the bay (Cape Nola and Bivouac Bay) has a range of attractions, most notably The Moai - perhaps the most achievable of the three spires. You can either walk-in to do your chosen route(s) in a day from the car park, or as a more relaxed trip by camping at the Bivouac Bay camp-site. There is good water access and a toilet here, along with tent platforms.

- The Moai is ~10 minutes’ walk away from the camp-site.
- The Golden Pillar a further 10 minutes from this.
- The Bivouac Bay crag is about a 15 minute walk away from camp.

The last of the trio of crags in the bay also boasts the best routes. The crag is just over an hours walk from the Fortescue Bay campground, a 15 minute walk away from the Bivouac Bay campsite, or a 15 minute kayak from the boat ramp. The rock here is water-washed and of quite good quality. The crag faces South and doesn’t get much sun, so it’s perfect for warm days in summer.

Access is relatively simple, and best approached by kayak. There are good landing locations right next to the crag if the swell is low, which it usually is. This approach makes for a great day out.

If walking; at the small bay just South of Bivouac Bay proper, two meters past the small rocky bridge, cut from the track and head easily down the small gully/dry creek bed to a stony beach. Walk Southwest (towards Canoe Bay) along the shoreline for around 5 minutes until you see a cairn at the tree line. Start heading uphill past this, follow your nose through the scrub until it leads to a descent gully. Down this and walk to the right (facing the sea) to the main cliff.

This crag is primarily a traditional climbing area consistent with established ethics and guidelines for the area. A recommended rack of gear includes a full set of wires and double rack of cams from #0.3 - #4. Please take great care of the vegetation and practice minimal impact on your visit. Be wary of how you store your food. The resident raven knows how to open zips, and has a penchant for power bars.

The Moai completes the trilogy. No aid, no swim, just quality routes - uncompromisingly modern in style - in a wild and scenic location. The Moai is a lone column of dolerite beside the sea, north of Fortescue Bay. Amidst the walls of rock along the coastline it stands apart, resting upon an altar formed by a rock platform, like a discontinuity in the time-space continuum. Its spiritual significance is obvious. Rock is not simply the medium for the sport, as only climbers know, the rock is sacred and the Moai is a shrine to the Rock Gods - a place of worship. (Editor's note: Moai is the name of the monoliths on Easter Island, pronounced "mow"-"eye")

To get to the Moai, walk along the beach from Fortescue Bay and onto the track to Waterfall Bay. About 1 hour 30 minutes of walking takes you to Bivouac Bay (good camp site with toilet). From Bivouac Bay, continue along the track for about 10 minutes until the crest of the spur is reached; there are two sawn stumps (approx. 40cm diameter) on the track here. Another 20m (approximately) along the track a small cairn marks the route to the abseils. Additional cairns and faded yellow (i.e. white) tape marks the route. Finally, climb around a large boulder to reach the abseil anchors (a U and a chain-link about 100m from the track). The first abseil is 15m (grade 16 if you want to climb back out). There are then two more of similar height off trees (these two can be done together as a 50m abseil and are about grade 12 if you're climbing out). Alternatively, a 60m rope fixed from the top anchors will just reach the bottom. From the bottom of the abseils it is relatively straightforward to scramble down to the rock platform. At most times, the rock platform is unthreatened by waves, but in certain heavier swell conditions waves do occasionally sweep across. Take care if the sea is rough, especially on the scramble to the platform.

On the cliff facing the Moai (i.e. part of the mainland) there are several pleasant routes. To get to them scramble down past the small cave at water level and up onto the ledges above. The first three routes all start from the same ledge (looks slopey from the Moai). There is a rap anchor above Thunderstruck.

Other crack routes exist about 100m away in the direction of Cape Huay. Editor's note: Climbs were done in the Dolomieu Point area by Peacock et al in the early eighties. These are different routes. I couldn't determine the location of the earlier route with sufficient accuracy (refer to CCT circulars 1982 -- issue #145).

Located about 10 minutes’ walk further along the track from the Moai turn-off is a large orange arete (GPS code FTS010), visible from the track at the first lookout you come to. This is a big, exposed cliff, and starting your route at the lonely ledges below is cathartic. For the full experience - pull your ropes! But don't underestimate the serious nature of climbing here, walking out from the base would be a real PITA. Although the routes to date have been extensively cleaned, The Golden Pillar is known for having friable rock, and the quality on the routes can vary anywhere from good to quite average. However, the gear is generally in sound rock. Potential routes to the right of the Golden Pillar have been investigated, but the rock quality starts to deteriorate significantly.

The Pillar is located only a few metres from the track. Use the abseil anchors at the top of the cliff for getting down to the routes - check the individual route descriptions for details.

Be wary of how you store your food. The resident raven knows how to open zips, and has a penchant for power bars.