Sisters Beach

10-20 minutes
Quartzite
Acknowledgement
By Ben Thorp
Introduction
Long overlooked for rope lovers, there is actually quite a lot of bouldering in the vicinity of the climbing area at Sisters Beach. The rock is super hard quartzite, the lines are steep and the landings pretty good. So far there are about 30 problems but there is potential for many more.
History
Some of these problems were climbed back on 2012 but I've been pretty slack writing them up! The rest were added recently with Moses Bassett. Hopefully some more locals will develop the rest of the area.
Access
The Sea Side and Tidal boulders are accessed directly from the access track to Fly Butress.

The Corruption Wall boulders are accessed by continuing through the Keyhole. Climbing and walking around Dog Wall should be avoided until an Aboriginal heritage assessment has been completed.

To get to the Cove, head around the coast from the Sea Side boulders then follow the coast around.
GPS
CodeDescriptionUTM ZoneUTM EastingUTM NorthingHeightLatLong
Carpark
55G
380706
5469698
-40.91513
145.58338
Tidal Boulder
55G
380919
5469636
-40.91572
145.58590
The Keyhole
55H
380969
5469566
-40.91636
145.58648
Seaside
55H
381015
5469624
-40.91584
145.58704
The Cove
55H
381108
5469332
-40.91848
145.58809
Show in Google Earth

Tidal Boulder

This boulder is the first along the track and is located below the track about 50m before the keyhole.
Scramble straight down from the track anyway you can. As the name suggests this boulder is partially submerged at high tide. However at low tide it provides quite a few good quality problems, with a harder project or two still to be done on the NW side.
These problems are on the south side facing the track.
1.High TideV3 
Start on the crimps above the small boulder that Tidal sits on. Move straight up through the jugs finishing left at the highest point of the boulder.
Moses Bassett
★ 2.Ripped Tide V1(Hang) 
Start hanging on the jugs and follow them right and then top out above.
Moses Bassett
★ 3.Low Tide V4 
Start on the small holds on the lowest point of the boulder and follow the best line out.
Moses Bassett
This problem is round to the right, on the NE side of the boulder
★ 4.Deep TideV3 
Start on two crimps and small feet, big move to a poor side pull/gaston and then easy finish.
Moses Bassett

Sea Side Boulders

Follow the track to a small scree slope, head down to the rocks from here. These boulders are located along the coast just below Fly Buttress and about 20m from the keyhole.
The first boulder in the area is at the top of the cove.
5.V1 

Easy Converts Boulder

On a tier above the low tide area.
6.Ease down the roadV1(Hang) 
Start on the big break and up.
B. Thorp
★ 7.Easy ConvertsV2(SDS) 
Start at the left end of the break and traverse along then finish up Ease Down the Road.
B. Thorp

Low Tide Boulders

The low tide boulders are underwater at low tide. Most are small boulders, some with immaculate rock generally fun.
8.Left DinkyV0 
Left arete.
★ 9.Right DinkyV3(SDS) 
Right arete with some foot work around the inconvenient boulder.

Life Aquatic Boulder

★ 10.The Life AquaticV4(SDS) 
Start on the rail under the overhang, feet on anything above the horizontal ledge.
11.V0(SDS) 
12.V0(SDS) 
13.Water loggedV2(SDS) 
14.VE(SDS) 

Above the waterline

The following boulders can be accessed when the tide is up by walking along one of the tiers.

Gully Boulder

15.V0(SDS) 
Use the left arete.
16.V3 
Up the right arete.

Small Roof Boulder

Immaculate rock and hard problems.
★ 17.V5(SDS) 
Immaculate rock.
Start with the lip and the odd jug under the roof at the RH end.
★★★ 18.The ProspectV6(SDS) 
Start as for the V5 and traverse the the full lip of the roof.
Mo Bassett 09.12.2021

Warm up Wall

Easy slab.
★ 19.VE 
★ 20.VE 
★ 21.VE 

Orange Lichen Boulder

★ 22.Venturi EffectV5(Hang) 
Start under the small roof hanging off a jug, around onto the sea-side face and up. Don't get sucked back under.
B. Thorp
23.Lichen LurchV3(SDS) 
Lurch up the orange lichen - which is surprisingly climbable without needing to be cleaned.
B. Thorp

Picturesque Face

This face can be found by heading further along past Lichen Lurch. As well as the great face problem written up there is lots of fun easier faces in a stunning location.
★★★ 24.Tassie's most picturesque boulder problem. V6(Highball, SDS) 
Start sitting under the face with right hand on an under cling and left on a crimp in the start of the crack. Straight up through some hard crimps for an easy but high top out. The stand start is also nice and goes about V4
Moses Bassett 30.05.2021

Corruption Wall Boulders

Long overlooked at the "centre of Tasmania sportclimbing", this collection of problems is actually pretty high quality. There is also an assortment of traverses and link-ups at the base of the Dog Wall.

Keyhole Boulder

★ 25.Stylistic ConfusionV3(SDS) 
Great problem heading up the crack from a sit-down start. Finish matched on the spike or head for the top (high). Seems to have been done as a route as someone has left some bolts....could also be done as trad. 3 different styles potentially for this one.
B. Thorp
★★★ 26.Walk On ByV5(SDS) 
Another great problem. Start at the same point but take the arete this time avoiding the crack. Finish matched on the spike or continue to the top (high).
B. Thorp
★ 27.New Kid On The BlocV2(SDS) 
Start matched on the big jug, a couple of steep moves then top-out up the slab
B. Thorp
★★ 28.Ropes Are For DopesV5(SDS) 
Start matched on the jug, take a low line across the bulge up to a cool pinch and then slap to the break. Traverse the break and finished matched on the good jugs.
B.Thorp

Finlandia Boulder

★ 29.NalleV4(Highball, Stand) 
Up the pockets to a dangerous top-out
B. Thorp
★★ 30.HukkV3(Highball, Stand) 
Straight up the face
B. Thorp
31.AtaV1(Stand) 
Up the arete
B. Thorp
32.IvalV0(Stand) 
Up the easy face.
B. Thorp
★★ 33.Finlandia TraverseV2(Stand) 
Traverse around the boulder keeping a line about mid height.
B. Thorp

The Cove

East of Corruption Wall is a little cove with a great collection of boulders. A bit further to walk than the other areas but a lot of potential here.

Latino Lovers Boulder

★★ 34.OiV3(Hang) 
Start on the lowest edges and up.
B. Thorp
★★ 35.OlaV3(Hang) 
Start low, out right to an obvious straight edge. Make a big move to the big pocket then traverse left to the next big pocket and up. A bit roundabout but makes sense.
B. Thorp
36.OilaV2(Hang) 
Up the face just left of the arete.
B. Thorp
★★ 37.Latino LoversV2(Hang) 
Up the arete utilising pockets in the big flake on the left face. Watch out for the loose top-out.
B. Thorp
★★★ 38.A German, a Frenchman and an AussieV6(SDS) 
A really fantastic problem! Steep, sustained and powerful. Start at the lowest holds and follow the groove to the top.
B. Thorp

The Egg of Mantumbi

This boulder is high and very featured with great landings and an easy decent off the back. It is on it own just off the beach as you first come into the cove, you can't miss it. Recent development by Moses Bassett and Ben Young.
39.Vince NoirVE(Highball, Stand) 
The right side of the boulder is all very easy, good as a warm up or access to the top.
40.KillerooV0(Highball, Stand) 
The easy but chossy right hand arete.
41.Soft ServeV1(Highball, SDS) 
Just left of the arete following the purple/cream rock to the non overhanging top out.
42.The Legend of Old GregV2(Highball, SDS) 
Start low under the boulder and follow the orange rock to the overhanging top out.
★★ 43.ScrambledV3(Highball, SDS) 
Sit start on good holds just R of broken corner (R of Pocket Cup). Low traverse across the seawards face of the Egg, finishing as for Soft Serve
C Arvier Nov 2017
44.Pocket CupV2(Highball, SDS) 
The good left arete, find the left hand side pull after the big pocket.
45.The Spirit of JazzV1(Stand) 
On backside past the left arete is good line on plenty of small holds.
 
  • No labels