This week, Ingvar Lidman and I completed our 3 pitch grade 26 project at the Tyndalls. After 4 trips, static ropes hanging off the cliff for 6 weeks, about 24 hours of preparation on the cliff cleaning, shunting and bolting, very heavy packs up the hill and getting lost in the mist, the route named Sea of Mirrors was finally completed. For those who have climbed at the Tyndalls, you will know that when Lake Huntley is perfectly still, it becomes a gigantic mirror for the surrounding cliffs and the sky, hence the name, Sea Of Mirrors.  It climbs the arete of the second buttress left of the Icecream Cone buttress where Witchcraft goes up.

Sea Of Mirrors  125m  26  *** (Fully Bolted)

Access: From the top of Deeper Water, follow rough footpads along the cliff top which soon become a cut track through deep scrub (the base jumpers track). Follow this past the top of Witchcraft for about 150m to where some tat on a tree branch indicates where to turn off to the cliff edge via another cut track, about 20m or so, and all up about 25 minutes walk from the camping cave. Rap from a large tree about 5m down through a gap in the bushes to a DBB. Fix this line so you can hand over hand back up to the top.  Double ropes are required for the 3 raps to the ground. For the first 40m rap, trend slightly right down to the top of a small pinnacle, then another 5m down to a small ledge on the arete and a DBB. Second rap is 45m down the face to a small stance on the arete, then another 40m down the arete to the bushy terrace and a DBB on a rocky stance about 3m off the ground.

  1. 40m, 26. A sustained pitch of unrelenting crimps and small sidepulls either side of the arete, with the first 20m being slightly overhanging. An outstanding pitch and a great lead by Ingvar in a 55 minute epic ascent. 15B
  2. 45m, 24. From the belay, trend left for 3m then blast straight up the wall for more sustained and tenuous climbing on small holds, with 2 bulges providing the crux. Just below the belay, an overhanging arete provides some steep climbing on bigger holds out of character with the rest of the route, but a surprising and pumpy conclusion to this huge pitch. Handed to Ingvar by Gerry in a moment of weakness and fading light, after 4 lead attempts including a 10m fall. Gerry managed to finally second it free. 15B
  3. 40m, 22. Up the slab to the top of the pinnacle, then step left onto small ledge and confront short vertical wall below the big slab. A tricky move followed by some careful slabbing on tiny edges to the base of the vertical headwall. A terrific section follows with some thin and challenging moves to get established on the headwall until halfway up some big cobblestone jugs materialise. Jug up on amazing big pebbles then turn the lip onto small crimps for the final run-out slab. From the DBB, jumar or batman up your fixed line for 5m to the tree. 10B
    FA: Ingvar Lidman and Gerry Narkowicz. 13th January, 2014
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