Friendly Point
20 mins
Morning sun
Pink and white granite, up to 20m high
Introduction
The Friendly Beaches are the surf beaches at the northern end of the park. The main cliff at Friendly Point consists of a very impressive south-facing wall with an unusual U shaped runnel forming its left end. This runnel also marks the point where the cliff becomes east facing and is a useful reference point. Be aware that most of the sport routes here do not have lower-off anchors.
Access
The Friendly Beaches are reached by turning off the main road 18km north of Coles Bay and walking to the southern end of the beaches (approx. 1hr), or by following the Coles Bay dam 4 wheel drive track to the southern end of Friendly Beaches.
Access to the cliffs is made by scrambling south along the coastline from the southern end of the beach (about 20 minutes), until a large amphitheatre is reached. You can't see the cliffs from the beach because they are around the corner. They are pretty impressive though, and worth the walk. Routes are described left to right, although you'll encounter them right to left.
Boot Rock
This is the most isolated and least visited section of the coast, midway between Bluestone Bay and Friendly Beaches to the north of the Whitewater Wall Area. Access is by following the Coles Bay Dam Rd to the old mine site north of Bluestone Bay and about 1km inland. Head towards the coast south of Boot Rock. The most substantial crag is 500m south of the Boot, identified by a Rubik's Cube type wall on the left and a higher wall on the right. There is a large chimney corner at the right hand end of the wall.
Begin about 5m to the right of the large left facing corner chimney above a small pedestal. 1. 20m. Jam, bridge and chimney the line. Belay on ledge. 2. 10m. Steep cracks on the right wall of easy corner to the top.
Richard Eccleston, Adam Potito, Jul 1993.
The Sparklehorse
A few hundred metres south of Cave Cliff is a very smooth white slab coming straight out of the sea. Approach by scrambling south just below the scrub line from above Cave Cliff. Be careful on a long climb down to the boulder beach just before the cliff. An absil or belay is recommended. Just before the slab is reached you'll need to climb up and then diagonal down on slick rock just above the water to set up a semi hanging stance at the bottom R side of the slab.
Climb easily up left to a large thread then follow bolts past a mono and a thin rockover to a dbb.
Edi Albert & Nick Hancock Jan 2024
From the belay climb up left to the first line of bolts. Sustained climbing on unusual glassy rock to a dbb.
Nick& Heather Hancock Jan 2017
Cave Cliff
This cliff is located one kilometre south of Friendly Point and is approached via the four wheel drive track leading out to Friendly Point from Coles Bay. Upon reaching Freshwater Lagoon turn right through the campground and follow the steep track at its end to the top of the hill. From the turnaround 50m back, head due east, following vague paths through some scrub, down towards a block, atop a cliff with a sea cave cutting through it. You will need some gear for all the climbs as there are no top anchors and you will need to abseil into the climbs. A spare rope is useful.
The steep arête on the south western tip. Approach via the gully leading south past the landward side of the sea cave.
Nick Hancock, Toby Story, 1 Dec 2002
Start up the first few metres of Ship's Krill and traverse the long narrow ledge rightwards to the back of the cave and belay. It's also possible to abseil steeply into the ledge, but gear will need to be placed. Traverse out right on the hanging ledge and pull steeply into a series of horizontal rails leading to the big roof. Layback up, then traverse left to a hanging stance. Finish up the stepped groove slightly leftwards. Sensational climbing on great holds with bomber gear.
Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2017
On the seaward face is a grey slab facing north. Climb carefully past a 6 Rock to the first bolt, then traverse desperately left to the arête passing three more.
Nick Hancock, Toby Story 1 Dec 2002
The stepped corner forming the right boundary of the grey slab.
Toby Story, Nick Hancock 1 Dec 2002
So named because it goes straight up at a ridiculous angle. Climb the very steep, but mostly juggy, groove; five metres right of Spam Fisted, via 7 bolts.
Nick Hancock, Oct 2006.
Climb the main corner on wide jams then finish directly up the right wall via a flake, left of Whip Smart.
Kim Ladiges & Urs Gruetner
On the steep south facing wall, north of the through cave. Climb the right trending flake, step left and layback the flared cack to a good break, then the final thin seam.
Nick Hancock, Toby Story 1 Dec 2002
Climb the open groove just right of the flake to a good ledge below the continuation of the flake. Easily up this. Marginal, hard to place protection.
Doug McConnell, Toby Story, Nick Hancock 1 Dec 2002
The very thin wall to the right via four U-bolts.
Doug McConnell, Nick Hancock 1 Dec 2002.
Friendly Point
South of the main crag a slab is reached by going past a steep bulging wall and through a notch. This climb traverses out onto the slab and follows the line to the top.
Sam Martin, Eloise Bradley, 199?
The following climbs are in the main ampitheatre. The east facing (seaward) wall of the Amphitheatre comprises two terraces. On the bottom terrace a stepped flake provides a point of reference.
The route follows twin cracks 7m left of the stepped flake. Start from a pedestal beneath the left crack, move to the right crack and then back left to finish.
Tim Chappell, Adam Potito, I. McCulloch Sep 1992.
Right of Love Gets Dangerous and about 20 metres left of the runnel; Climb strenuous twin cracks to an obvious undercut flake. Well protected.
Mark Bennis, Nick Hancock, Nov 2001.
The next four climbs are on the Upper terrace, above the access ramp.
Starts at a wide crack a few metres left of Hip Hip Foray. Climb the wide crack to a small ramp, and then follow another wide crack to an awkward slopey ledge below the roof. Through roof on good jams and jugs. Cams to #3 camelot.
Kim Ladiges, Cam McKenzie, April 2013
On the top tier, on the access ramp above Cloaxial, climb a left facing corner crack in the centre of the cliff, to a juggy roof. Take care with the rock when pulling over.
Matt Bennett, Allyson Eaton, Nov 2001
Five meters right of Hip Hip Foray is a hand crack. Go up the crack that pinches down to fingers just before the large horizontal. Gear to 3".
Mike Hitchcock, Laura Bussolini, Oct 2010
This line takes the humongous left trending horizontal of the upper terrace. Start at the she oak on a little rise.
1- 19 20m Up the chimney heading left into the difficulties, squirm on fist jams. When you emerge continue L on hand jams and smears to a point where the crack peters out in a small cave.
2- 22 25m Break out left on hand jams and smears until you once again get engulfed by the crack. Leave the safety of the notch and out onto the open face using whatever contorted dance moves you can to pass the horizontal offwidth (crux) and reach the ledge.
T.Kirkby & M. Lopez (alt leads) August 2017
The thin twin cracks 20m left of the "runnel" (not the very thin twin cracks about 8m left of the runnel). Well protected (although challenging to place on lead!!).
Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.
The fully U-bolted arête just right of the runnel. Take gear for the belay or down-climb and lower off the top bolt.
Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Matt Bennett, Nov 2001.
Climb up the steep ground about 8m right of Unoriginal Sin.
Dan Hoar; Steve Goss.
The right trending chimney crack about 18 metres R of the runnel, starting off a hanging ledge.
Nick Hancock, Alex Wilson, Jake Bresnehan.
About 20 m R of the runnel is a magnificent barrelling wall split by 3 cracks
Climbs the left crack with a wicked leap for a fingerlock to start. Make a bold move to a rest at the horizontal, (1/2 friend), and then exhausting moves to gain the bottomless finishing crack.
Nick Hancock, Nov 2001
The amazing R trending crack.
Andrew Bisset, 2003.
Follow the right crack to a hard, strenuous move over the small roof. Well protected.
Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Nov 2001
The big corner rising above the seaward boulders. Lots of hand sized cams needed.
Dennis Kearnes, John Fry, 1991
Starts the same as HFOS but from the over-lap under-cling left and finish up the wall above. Awesome last move!
Garry Phillips 2004.
From the small cave above the sea, climb the wall above to the over lap and head direct to the lower off.
Garry Phillips 2004.
The right arête of the cliff, starting off a block. Clip a U-bolt with difficulty (or a stick), then follow the thin crack to a ledge. Climb the easier crack on the right for a few moves and finish back on the arete.
Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Matt Bennett, Nov 2001