Other Eastern Crags
This section contains information about other crags in the East of Tasmania for which we do not have full guides for, from north to south.
Bay of Fires - Binalong Bay
There are a few smaller climbs on the excellent granite of this area.
Ashley Big Fat Crack
7m18South of Binalong Bay in Humbug Point Reserve at Grants Point. Go past a massive Australia shaped boulder, that you can just squeeze under if you are that way inclined, to a large buttress facing out to sea, with a wide crack, climb this crack. GDA 0611976 5432247.
Ashley Mason, 1990's
Gorky's Zygotic Mynchki
7m18200 m south of Grants Point is a collection of boulders half in the sea. At the northern end of these and back a bit from the sea, climb a north facing vertical seam to a horizontal, then a difficult bulge to finish. GDA 0612082 5432057.
Nick & Heather Hancock, 2007.
If Fingers Were Xylophones
7m22At Skeleton Point climb the south east facing short finger crack over the bulge. GDA 0611390 5432770.
Nick & Heather Hancock, 2006.
Tickle the Ivories
★1817A fun traverse above the waves. Starting and finishing on dry land. Start on the north western corner of the big rock. Climb onto the boulder then step across onto the big rock using a big undercut flake. Traverse left along the break, under the roof and around the corner until an awkward step down onto a sloping ledge. From here step down onto the boulders, a couple of meters to the right of 'If Fingers Were Xylophones'. Well-protected with small and medium cams.
Jack Colbeck 11/03/2023
Ruby in the Dust
★★10m22Just south of the turn off for Sloop Rock, head down to the coast at the sign, Gardens 6. On a massive orange rock half in the sea. Abseil or scramble down to the seawashed north end and climb the lovely slab past 2 glued carrots. Mind numbingly thin for the grade! GDA 0607672 5436423.
Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason, 2007.
Isle De Phoques
White granite island, climbs on steep east face finishing at trig point have been done. DWS in large caves.
Orford
Paradise Gorge at Orford has a number of established routes, but we don't have any details. Its surprising it hasn't been developed more as its only an hour from Hobart and extremely obvious. There are a number of short (10m or so) buttresses - next to the road, near the weir, and on the opposite side of the river. The most obvious buttress on the south side of the road has a couple of OK cracks and a hard face route with a carrot or two (or was it a piton?). Be very careful climbing near the highway - as there are plenty of loose rocks waiting to land on cars below.
Maria Island
The island offers both granite and dolerite climbing. The established ethic is to record no routes and save the island for the adventure. Please be sensitive to the environment on the other east coast islands as these summits are rarely visited by humans.
Cape Bougainville
There a few cliffs along this section of coast north of Okehampton bay that may be worth climbing, especially if the access improved. This quaint little sea stack was approached by boat during a combined cray and cliff scoping mission...
The Silo
★10m16Climbs the finger crack on the NE arete of the stack. You can jump off either side, or equal weight abseil, or sling the rope over a natural spike and flick it off (like we did).
H Jackson and Brigette Mol April 2021 while Luca minded the boat!
