Bare Rock
10 - 45min
10am until 6pm (Summer).
200m Dolerite. Mostly Sport with some Mixed and Trad routes.
Acknowledgement
Original guide by Jon Tiller (thanks to Bob McMahon and Simon Parsons), first published in Craglets.
Introduction
You cannot really miss Fingal Cliff, no matter which direction you come from, it's a huge 200m rock that jumps out and grabs you by the throat. Yes, it is dolerite but it has a unique structure which offers few natural lines and creates an incredible atmosphere for climbing.
The climbing is of a more serious nature due to patches of loose rock (helmets essential); height and exposure all contribute to its atmosphere.
For the older established trad lines, Small quadcams, wires and RP's are useful at this cliff and double ropes are essential. And remember, when it's hot on this cliff, you can get fried to a crisp!
History
"It was not as if the black cliff at Fingal ever needed discovering. Perched up there in the paddocks behind the town, the black cliff streaked with orange is so obvious from the highway that I don't suppose anyone even notices it. The townspeople call it Bare Rock but I suspect the name is simply descriptive, like 'high mountain' or 'rough road'. Apart from the fact that it is there, I doubt whether it has much more significance for them." (Bob McMahon, Peaks 3).
Access
NEW BARE ROCK ACCESS as of July 2026
1. Bare Rock is mostly surrounded by private property and there is no way to access the cliff without walking across private land. Most of the Boneyard, New Horizons Buttress, the container and all access walks are on private land. Access is therefore a privilege and not a right.
2. The landowners are happy for us to walk upon their land and to access the climbs that way (at your own risk), however, that is it. Our continued access relies upon there being absolutely no camping, fires, shooting, use of the container, firewood collection or other activities on that property.
3. The road up to Bare Rock is not council maintained and is paid for and maintained by a small number of private property owners. Unless a personal guest of one of the landowners and you have been specifically invited up, please park at the end of the long straight on Legge St (after the butcher) before the "End of Council Maintained Road" sign, and walk from there.
4. NO CAMPING: There are no camping options at the cliff anymore. The former campground on Andrew's property and the shipping container close to The Boneyard are not to be camped on under any circumstances.
5. NO TOILET: Come prepared for bush-toileting, remembering to respect the property.
6. Specific sections of the cliff are closed from August through to early December due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check details on the Climbers Club of Tasmania Facebook page for yearly changes and adhere to all recommendations from the crag stewards. This is non-negotiable and all climbers are asked to respect nature and the nesting habits of these wonderful creatures.
DIRECTIONS
As you enter Fingal town from the west, take the third RH turn onto Legge Street and drive south towards the obvious cliff. Follow this for about 2.5km in the direction of the cliff with several turns. Where the dirt road comes to a sharp LH bend at the end of a long straight and the sign indicating the end of the council-maintained road, PARK HERE. From here it is 1.5km to the start of the access tracks to the cliff.
WALKING ACCESS
Follow the main dirt road up a couple of hills. Do not enter the driveway to the Martin’s property signposted `Bare Rock’ which is on the right. Continue straight ahead past a shipping container on the left, to a T-Intersection.
Turn left on the rough vehicle track for a couple of hundred metres to another shipping container.
BONEYARD AND SUMMIT ACCESS
From the container keep heading east along a disused vehicle track for about 200m and you should start to see tags marking the start of a well-marked, steep track to the top of Bare Rock. The summit track is used to access the areas high on the cliff, namely the Boneyard, Central headwall, Easter Rising Face, Great Roof headwall and the Supernaut Face.
CENTRAL FACE AND TOMORROW’S DREAM ACCESS
Turn right on the 4wd track just before the shipping container and walk across Andrew and Alanna's property to access the original trail heads. "The Block" is on private property, but climbing there is ok if you stick to those tracks and don't walk elsewhere on their property. DO NOT continue on the 4wd track to the old campsite.
Camping
THERE IS NO LONGER CAMPING AVAILABLE AT THE CLIFF
There is an official campground / caravan parking area at the football ground in Fingal. There is also a toilet facility on the main street. This has power, water, toilets and hot showers for a small fee
Descent
The abseil route down joins Sapphire Rose and takes the steepest and longest part of the cliff. The line is sensational and not to be missed. The first abseil (about 60m to the L of the top of MacDonagh as you are looking at the cliff) requires that you rap off a tree (festooned with tape) for about 30m to the first chain. Three more raps lead to the bottom. Alternatively one can walk off easily via a taped and cairned track down the LH (east) side. A steep and loose descent gully can also be used on the far R of the cliff if you must. Take the second gully on the R as you are walking along the top.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (fingalvalley@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
GPS
The Boneyard
Access
There are three options accessing the Boneyard.
1) Ascend the fixed lines located directly below 'Fire in the Sky' just to the left of the Boneyard. NOTE THAT THESE ARE NOT ALWAYS PRESENT. Follow the rough track from the old shipping container, 50m on head to your right and continue to the scree and the base of the cliffs. Please ensure you place the ropes in the stainless rope protection when you pass, both ascending and descending.
2) Hike around the eastern edge of the cliff, climbing steeply to a cairn where the track takes you back west to the top of the fixed lines where you need to ascend a final fixed line. *The 2019 bushfires severely damaged this access but it is passable.
3) Continue up the eastern edge track to the summit and rap in.
The base of the Boneyard is very exposed, ensure you use slings or a PAS to stay safe along the fixed lines!
Gerry Narkowicz has put together most of the information for this area on his blog.
For access information http://climbnortherntasmania.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/boneyard-overview-and-access.pdf
For more information on everything else https://climbnortherntasmania.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/new-fingal-guide-dec-2012.pdf
Please be aware that any gear not left in the box will be annihilated by the resident rats. This includes ropes, shoes, jumars you name it.
Boneyard
- 4.Project
- ★★5.Redneck Love25
- 6.Redneck Heaven27
- ★★7.Heaven Can Wait24
- ★★★8.Dopamine25
- ★9.Latex Evening22
- ★★10.Chase That Feeling27
- ★★★11.Velvet Morning26
- ★★12.Barbarella!27
- ★★13.Queen of the Galaxy26
- ★★14.Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs25
- 15.project Garry Phillips
- ★★★16.White Powder31
- ★★★17.Jet Stream28
- ★★★18.Vapour Trail27
- ★★19.Legends Never Die27
- ★★20.Giving the Dog A Bone23
- ★★★21.Passchendaele25
- ★★★22.Triple Direct29
- ★★★23.Angel Of Pain26
- ★★★24.Call of the Void33
- ★★★25.No Space In Time28
- ★★★26.Atomic Vampire28
- 27.Marks Project
- ★★28.Too Fast Too Furious27
- ★29.Crack A Boner24
- ★★30.Tiger Bean28
- ★★31.Bad to the Bone25
The two pitch route beside the abseil line from the Boneyard, directly below Fire in the Sky. First pitch grade 17. Second pitch - exciting pitch of face climbing through a small roof.
Gerry Narkowicz, Andrew Martiin, Alannah Martin, 3 July 2022
Good climbing, but quite a bit of loose rock. Start up Fire in the Sky, then follow the line of bolts heading leftwards and up.
Paul Thomson 09-01-2015
Easiest route at the Boneyard, Good warm up. Start is 30m left of the main Boneyard face on a lower terrace. Abseil 10m off anchors for Redneck Love, across fixed line to base of route beside large tree. Has cleaned up to be a classic. Terrific face climbing all the way.
Gerry Narkowicz 08-04-12.
Project - Andrew Martin
Furthest line of bolts left on the Boneyard. A terrific natural line with some excellent climbing. At the end of the fixed line is a double bolt belay. Traverse left for a couple of metres then up the thin crack/seam with mixed bolts and gear. The technical crux is the bulge low down on the route, but the redpoint crux is the fiery move just below the anchors. Mixed gear: cams 0.5 - 3, 3 wires and 2 hexes plus 16 draws. At least 4 slings will help as well.
Andrew Martin, Jul 2012.
Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent.
Ingvar Lidman 5-Jan-2019
Fully bolted.
Gerry Narkowicz 15-07-2011.
Climb Heaven Can Wait for the first 5 bolts then head right and up. Superb, thin, sustained face climbing to join the anchors of HCW.
Gerry Narkowicz May 2012
The big crack bordering the LHS of the orange shield. Overhanging handcrack (18) to thin face, followed by superb fingerlock/layback crack on great rock, then an airy conclusion over the roof.
Gerry Narkowicz 18-03-2011.
The line immediately right of the big crack bordering the orange shield.
Several powerful moves low down followed by a sustained section of insecure slab climbing up the orange shield. Then a heartbreaking crux over the final roof.
Chris Coppard 25-3-2012.
Awesome climbing up the seam in the middle of the shield
Fully bolted.
Ingvar Lidman 07-2011.
Climb the right-trending crack with several hard sequences (heading right across Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs at the apex where the cracks meet), then up into more thin cruxy technical face climbing, and through roof to anchors.
Ingvar Lidman 05-2014
Links the lower half of Barbarella into the upper part of Velvet Morning via 4 new bolts and 8m of new (and tough) face climbing, eliminating the rests on both routes in the process. Hard for the grade, but worth the effort.
Climb Barbarella to the 7th bolt, and continue through the Shield crux to where it traverses sharply right (just before the 8th bolt). Straight up via new bolt, and continue up passing 3 more bolts to rejoin Velvet Morning at the undercling jug (hold shared with Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs). Step left into Velvet morning passing 3 bolts, and the nails roof-turn to the anchor.
Named for the Subtitle (secondary title) to the Jane Fonda softcore porno: Barbarella.
Paul Thomson 22-06-2016
Climb the left trending jamcrack out to the middle of the shield (heading left across Barbarella at the apex where the cracks meet), then sustained face climbing in awesome position to the roof. Traverse right for 5m under roof and layback over to anchors (shared with Barbarella).
Gerry Narkowicz 11-01-2011.
Starts up white powder then heads left. Thin, powerful and sick climbing all the way.
Climbs the first 3 bolts of CGD then heads right. Fantastic climbing all the way.
Garry Phillips 9-6-2012
Climb Vapor Trail to just above the first anchors (25) then heads left via a V5 boulder problem and up to anchors.
Garry Phillips 10-6-2012
Steep climbing up the bulging prow. There is a lower off at 25m. (grade 26 to here)
Garry Phillips 14-07-2011..
Climb Vapour Trail to just below the anchors, then head right up the steepest part of the crag via a rad boulder problem.
Garry Phillips 20-04-2013
Up Passchendaele for 15m to junction with left trending thin jam crack. Very steep thin jamming to anchors. Trad route
Gerry Narkowicz 14-01-2012.
The prominent overhanging crack in the centre of the Boneyard. Tassie's answer to Trojan at Arapiles. Jamming of various widths which just keeps going out, and out and out to a crux fingerlocking section. Awkward gaining the pod after the crux, then hold it together on 22 corner to the anchors. 8 bolt pitch of 22 face climbing for 2nd pitch.
Gerry Narkowicz 09-07-2011..
Start up Angel Of Pain (26), then cross over Passchendaele (0.75 or 0.5 cam) moving left to gain the upper section of Legends Never Die. Super sustained with a desperate crux below the anchors on flailing arms.
Garry Phillips 24/5/14
Next line right of Passchendaele. 8 bolts worth of steep face climbing and thin crack, followed by the top crux of Passchendaele and up to its anchors. Take medium wires plus purple, green and red camalot. Superb route.
Gerry Narkowicz 06-05-2012.
Next line left of No Space in Time. A contender for the best climb on Bare Rock! This route requires stamina and lots of power for the bouldery crux sequence.
Tasmania's first 33!
R Sklenica
Climb the steep crack (2 medium wires and a #.75 and .5 camolots) then the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way.
One of the best 28's in Tasmania.
Ingvar Lidman 06-2011.
Fantastic power endurance climbing up the colourful streaks. A classic route.
Ingvar Lidman 02-2012
Project, Direct start to 2 fast to Furious
Thin, powerful and sick climbing
Power up for for the bulge then traverse left (staying low and avoiding the jugs that have now appeared up high) and up to chains.
Garry Phillips 17-07-2011.
Stiff for the grade. An old project of Doug Fife's. The overhanging crack on the RHS of the Boneyard face in between 2 Fast 2 Furious and Tiger Bean. A brutal exercise in steep jamming which gets you pumped all the way to the anchors. Well protected. Gear: camalots yellow micro, purple, red x 2, and medium to large nuts.
Gerry Narkowicz 12th April, 2014
Powerful start then up the cool orange wall above. Drop a grade if you head way out left near the 3 rd bolt!
Garry Phillips 07-2011.
Last route on the right hand side of the wall. Thin and technical climbing all the way.
Garry Phillips 07-2011.
Bare Rock Left
This climb follows the line of the chimney on the far LH end of the cliff, beyond the McCavity/Batten chimney. Climb up the face just L of the start of Boneyard to about the second belay of Boneyard and climb the chimney.
R.Schmidt, J.Butler, 1976.
This route takes the line always confused with Faggus. Climb the first and second pitches as for Boneyard, but on the second pitch, instead of moving R up the ledge, go straight up from the belay - a delightful dolerite slab (17). The third pitch is a bold, sustained 50m pitch through a bulge of fairly loose rock in places and tight bridging in a huge chimney (17). The last pitch typically worthless.
R. McMahon, R, Staszewski, 1979 (Alt).
R.McMahon, M.McHugh, P.Jackson (alt.), 1969.
Gerry Narkowicz (L), Paul Thomson (S) 06-03-2016
R.McMahon, M.McHugh (alt.), 1971.
M.Perchard, J.Clarke, 1998.
Gerry Narkowicz
Ingvar Lidman
Marc Tierney, Michael Fox, Kim Robinson, Feb 2006.
Gerry Narkowicz 08-06-2013
Gerry Narkowicz and Andrew Martin, June 2013.
S.Edwards, S.Eberhard, 1994.
A brilliant pitch of technical slab and face climbing, which can be done as an alternate (direct) first pitch to The Sapphire Rose, or as a single pitch in its own right.
Starts 5m right of The Sapphire Rose. Up slab, then crux past technical face on orange rock, to final moves through rooflet to gain the 1st belay of The Sapphire Rose.
Andrew Martin 01-06-2013
Andrew Martin, Ingvar Lidman (Pitch 5).
Starts a few metres right from the belay at the start of Ride the Lightning Pitch 4.
Ingvar Lidman.
CLOSED PROJECT - Please stay off this.
Starts 7m right from the belay at the start of Ride the Lightning Pitch 4 (right of Ingvar's 26).
Climb the front face of the ramp and from the top climb up overhanging leftwards corner. When they finish, climb through the overlap (crux) and up face to the R, joining Finn Crisp on the large ledge with a tree. Continue up Finn Crisp to pass the head-wall.
R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980 (alt).
Starts at the huge grassy, R- leading ramp. May not as of yet had a second ascent in its entirety. Scramble up the ramp and from the top move up and R on the face. Follows the lichen streaked nose of rock up the blank face left of MacDonagh.
J.Friend, W.Stevens, 1976.
Rap-In Area Between the Boneyard and The Great Roof
A small collection of rap-in, climb-out routes (though they can be accessed by climbing Black Fire or Bisso of Orange) in the middle of the wall, clearly recognisable by the broad, vibrant orange streak at the top of the wall (Orange Crush).
Access by rapping in from the top. Walking up from the Boneyard access track, locate the moderately sized cairn just past the marked turn-off up to the major campsite/parking area atop Bare Rock (on your left), and head straight down the hill (carefully). The anchors are located by the cliff edge surrounded by a lot of loose rock. Rap 35m (with a possible re-belay after 15m) to the 2 belays above The Obsidian Obsession Project, and Orange Crush. Rap again 30m (bouncing to stay in contact with the wall) to a small but cozy ledge and chain anchor.
Alternatively, access the routes by climbing Black Fire or Bisso of Orange.
The "easy exit" from the Orange Crush ledge can be used as a way of climbing Black Fire to the top of the cliff (at a similar grade), as a way of exiting Orange Crush Ledge, or as a fun single pitch in its own right.
From the belay, move left and up, following incipient crack to bulge. Left at bulge and up onto ledge. Hard moves off ledge, then easier climbing up and right to a final punchy finish on small crimps.
Can JUST lower back to the belay on a 60m rope (tie a knot in the end!)
Paul Thomson 30-03-2016
Climbs Amber Allure to the 6th bolt, then heads directly up the steep, thin face (where AA traverses left through the bulge) via punchy moves, the join Amber Allure just before it's top headwall.
Garry Phillips 15-06-2016
CLOSED PROJECT - PLEASE STAY OFF!
Climbs Obsidian Obsession for 4 bolts, then breaks off left to tackle the bulge via extremely powerful and fingery moves, to rejoin Obsidian Obsession at its last bolt. Through bulge to anchor.
Paul Thomson's multi-year siege. Please stay off this.
Heading left from the belay, climb the Black section of rock with varied and intense climbing past 11 bolts.
Possibly the proudest position on Bare Rock. Powerful, reachy and extremely fingery climbing up the vibrant, broad orange streak in the upper centre of Bare Rock.
Heading right from the belay, make your way up the orange streak and through the bulge to the belay.
Ingvar Lidman.
It's possible to climb Bisso of Orange Pitch 5 (25m 26**) in isolation, belayed from the Orange Crush Ledge.
Traverse right from the belay to the first bolt of Bisso of Orange Pitch 5, place a long runner on the first bolt, then continue up the pitch as normal.
Bare Rock Right
Ingvar Lidman January 10 2012
A mighty steep pitch that can be climbed as a single pitch, or as a harder start to God Monster.
Starts 6m right of God Monster on the steep underside of the arch that God Monster traverses around.
Up via much steepness (by Bare Rock standards) remaining on the underside of the arch (stemming for the first 4 bolts as necessary), finishing up at the anchor at the end of God Monster Pitch 1 after the last ringbolt on the face (you shouldn't be clipping any of bolts on God Monster).
Paul Thomson 04-02-2016
Extremely steep.
Starts up Godhead's Lament, breaking right at the 2nd last bolt (10th bolt from the ground) and continuing to climb the arch through even more ridiculously steep terrain past 7 more bolts.
Anchors located below the lip and to the right to facilitate cleaning on lower-off.
Paul Thomson 09-03-2016
R.McMahon and P.Jackson, 1969. 1b) R.McMahon and E. Mallinson.
Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Gerry Narkowicz, 1983.
G.Phillips, S.Harper, May 1997.
R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980.
A direct 3rd pitch of Conan McMorna. From the belay after the second pitch of Conan McMorna climb straight up the crack, on the L side of the orange triangle of rock. At the top of the crack, move L to a flake and then straight up. Walk along the ledge to join Conan McMorna. at the start of the 4th pitch. This is a much better alternative to pitch 3 of Conan McMorna.
Sam Edwards, Jon Tiller, 1994.
A great long pitch of technical slabbing, with a few roofs to keep things spicy.
Start as for Tomorrow's Dream, climbing directly up to the ledge. Then up following technical black slab for 35m, with varied moves of increasing difficulty.
Combine with P3 of Tomorrow's Dream for a brilliant 2-pitch multi following some of the best rock in the area.
G. Narkowicz 30-04-2016
P1 - G. Narkowicz; P2 - Equipped by G. Narkowicz, FFA - P. Thomson (Belayed by G. Narkowicz); P3, P4 & P5 - P. Thomson (Belayed by G. Narkowicz); P6 & P8 - P. Thomson (Belayed by J McCarthy; P7 - P. Thomson (Belayed by Ingvar Lidman).
Gerry Narkowicz, Andrew Martin, Oct 2010.
Gerry Narkowicz
CLOSED PROJECT - PLEASE STAY OFF!
Andrew's bolted variant to Pitch 3 of Tomorrow's Dream.
Start as for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 3, then after 10m take the rightmost line of bolts up to the ledge. Mostly gr21/22, but with a hard crux in the gr24 range.
Start 40m right of Tomorrow's Dream. A superb one pitch slab climb. A bouldery crux low down on the steep bulge, then delightful moderate climbing becoming increasingly thinner until the thinnest move of all near the top providing another crux. There are 2 alternate finishes: at the last bolt move left to big jug and chin up onto block to gain ledge - easy; or go right for 2 more thin moves making it more sustained.
Gerry Narkowicz 27/7/12
Rodney's old "Rocketman" Project, tried by many and finally Sent by Ingvar Lidman.
Starts 5m right of The Biggest Thing Since Powdered Milk.
Up to powerful, slopey crux on caramel-coloured rock. Easier climbing above culminates in a fingery, reachy upper crux around the square-cut roof. Climb the technical face above to the anchor.
Ingvar Lidman.
The Great Roof - The Easter Rising Trilogy
Accessed by climbing Tomorrow's Dream, and traversing left on easy terrain past several bolts and a fixed rope.
Due to hard-to-clip bolt placements, this is best climbed by placing the draws on the upper 2/3rds on the abseil in.
Start 3m left of MacDonagh's 4th pitch at a single bolt belay. Excellent steep climbing, with 2 definite cruxes - not as sustained as Easter Rising but the crux moves are harder. Through roof and up orange face to cross Macdonagh after about 15m. Step right out of Macdonagh and up through leftwards slanting stepped roofs (first crux). Rest on small stance and move right and over next roof (crimpy pull through roof - the crux). Lovely face climbing on steep ground with big holds for another 4 bolts to a small ledge below the last roof. Strenuous through the blocky roof to the final corner and the same anchors as Easter Rising.
Gerry Narkowicz 14/7/2012
A candidate for the best pitch of bolted 25 in Northern Tas.
Start just right of the guano patch at the base of Macdonagh's 4th pitch. Up the steep face (crux) passing 5 bolts to a small ledge. Move 2m left and continue up through steep territory with a small roof providing another crux. The route continues with some hard moves in between good rests on large footholds, though slightly overhanging all the way. A spekky traverse move to gain the left slanting corner near the top with another couple of potentially heartbreaking pumpy moves.
Named after the Easter rising of 1916 against British rule in Ireland, of which Macdonagh was one of the leaders.
Access: Two ways: either climb Tomorrows Dream, then traverse left along the easy bolted slab (7 bolts, grade 3) to the base of the route. Then rap down Tomorrows Dream to descend - two 60m ropes. Or walk to the top and rap in, then top out. There are rings at the top 20m right of the top of Macdonagh. Rap 15m down slightly to the left to another set of rings at the top of Easter Rising. There are 4 bolts up through the choss after finishing Easter Rising so you can top out.
Take half a dozen extendable draws for potential rope drag!
Gerry Narkowicz 12/1/12
Climbs the first 4 bolts of Easter Rising to the ledge, then takes the rightmost line of bolts up the orange wall to a ledge/ramp. Then tackle the tough and tricky crux finale with extremely technical stemming through a series of sharply overhanging stepped roofs.
Gerry Narkowicz 02-12-12
Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts climbs the black streak 3m right of where Enchanted to a Stone leaves Easter Rising).
CLOSED PROJECT - PLEASE STAY OFF!
Ingvar's Flake Project. Climbs the black flake trending right from the belay below Pitch 7 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts.
Up rightward leaning flake via hard moves to blunt arete. Up arete, then back left across featured black streak to rejoin Enchanted to a Stone at its last bolt.
PAUL T'S PROJECT - PLEASE STAY OFF!
Takes the line of best rock and position on all of Bare Rock, starting from a good belay ledge, and featuring sustained steep climbing (non-stop gr25 climbing for 25m) with big and complex moves on mostly good holds.
Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).
Traverse right to a bolt. Up arete (staying on leftside) to another bolt, move up and right into a steep stemming stance (bolt). Hard moves out of the stance and onto the blunt arete (bolt), then sustained rightwards traverse past 3 more bolts to glue in rings. Sustained steep and powerful moves up to rooflet (bolt), traverse right under the rooflet to join Gazza's Project (past 1 more bolt) and up it (past 2 more bolts) to anchor.
Equipped by Paul Thomson 01-07-16
A Rap-in, Climb-out line starting from a fully-hanging belay on the very lip of The Great Roof.
Follows a diagonal right-trending seam-crack.
Chris Copphard.
Supernaut Face
Accessed by scrambling up the right-hand side of Bare Rock via a loose gully. Alternatively by climbing Tomorrow's Dream, and traversing right on easy terrain past several bolts.
It's also possible to rap-in from the top. The rap point above the climbs can be seen from a position on the righthand side (looking in) at the top of Bare Rock, perpendicular to the Supernaut face.
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Starts 7m left of Into the Void. Ramble up the slab. Then do a techo sequence of moves to get into the roof. Powerful moves through this and the corner above. Traverse left and up to the chains of Master of Puppets.
Garry Phillips Feb 2013.
Your friend and mine. Starts up Peppa Pig but at the top of the corner head up and right past 3 BR.
Garry Phillips Feb 2014.
CLOSED PROJECT - Master of Puppets
Andrew Martins Project - Please stay off this,
The 2nd Pitch of Master of Puppets can be climbed on its own by rapping in from anchors 10m right looking out) of the Supernaut top anchors. The rap point above the climbs can be seen from a position on the righthand side (looking in) at the top of Bare Rock, perpendicular to the Supernaut face.
Rap 45m (with an interim belay) to a hanging corner above the huge roof. Engaging, technical face climbing.
Andrew Martin 02-01-11
The route on the left of the face rising leftwards out to the arete above the big roof. Start 10m down left of Supernaut and belay on the abseil chains on the slab. Up 4 bolts via the steep face (25) to stance at the base of the right trending hanging corner. Go left across the overhanging face (crux) out to the arete. Continue up the arete (23) for 5 bolts to join Supernaut. Continue up Supernaut for the last 8 bolts.
Ingvar Lidman, Jan 2011.
Up first 4 bolts of Fairies Wear Boots to stance at hanging corner. Up corner to right with a tricky move (23) then straight up the face to join Supernaut. Continue up the last 8 bolts of Supernaut.
Gerry Narkowicz Feb 2011.
The magnificent orange and black face up R of the big roof on the far RH side of the cliff. Access via Tomorrow's Dream. From the chains at the top of the 3rd pitch of Tomorrow's Dream, traverse right along narrow ledge with 2 bolts to tree, then up easy slab to double bolt belay (about 20m). The start of the route is 10m higher up to the right. Step off the slab and scramble up to point opposite the climb and belay on flat stance where there is a single belay bolt. Up the overhanging seam for 3 bolts (crux) then a rising traverse on superb orange rock out towards the arête (this section about grade 23). Climb just R of the arête (great exposure) for a sustained section of grade 21 face climbing for 20m to the top. 16 bolts. Descent: 4 raps from the top with chains, first to ledge below Supernaut, then reverse narrow ledge section to chains above Tomorrows Dream. Double 60m ropes required.
Gerry Narkowicz, 3 July 2010.
Climb Supernaut for 5 bolts, then head slightly right and more directly up on orange rock via sustained, thin, varied, and tricky-to-read sequences to the anchors.
Gerry Narkowicz
Climb the first 4 bolts of Supernaut, then head right and up on orange rock for sustained, excellent technical climbing. An old fashioned bridging problem in the upper corner may provide a redpoint crux for some.
Gerry Narkowicz. 22/4/14
New Horizons Buttress
A small, precise columnar buttress on the hillside to the east of Bare Rock. About 50m past the house, turn left on the 4wd track and after 100m there is a paddock. From the bottom, left corner of the paddock, a taped route goes down the hill, across a creek, through the bush to the base of the hill, then a very steep walk up the hill...all up about 40 minutes.
About 100m left of the main crag and across the gully is a neat, tall buttress. Climb the main face utilizing the big holds created by the extensive cleaning process which knocked many large blocks off. Only 4 pieces of cosmetic protection on the route; would have made a nice sport route.
Gerry Narkowicz and Wade Bone 17/8/19
Straight up the planar black face (about 30 m left of the next route). This short route packs in a lot of climbing. A dyno is, arguably, the easiest way to dispatch the crux.
Andrew Martin, Oct 2013.
A thin seam up a slightly overhanging orange wall leads to an overhang with loose looking blocks to finish up an off-width crack. Great climbing with adequate gear. Dubious looking loose blocks in the roof are keyed in and ok for gear and reefing on to surmount the overhang. The off-width is easily laybacked on the left side.
Gerry Narkowicz, Nick Clements, Wade Bone. 17/8/19
The thin crack up the wall left of White Death. A worthwhile climb which is well protected and some nice technical moves.
Gerry Narkowicz and Kris Penn
Hand crack a few meters left of The Fool. Very good route; the most pleasant easy route at the crag. Traverse to the right near the top to the anchors for the Fool.
Robert McMahon, Gerry Narkowicz, Marc Tierny, 5 Jun 1984.
Bolted, but not quite enough to be a safe lead. AM's advice is to TR it after doing BLB.
Doug Fife, Oct 2012.
Up the middle of the black, streaked, face. A few meters before the top, diagonal leftwards, around the arete, to the anchors on The Fool. Originally led in natural gear, but retro-bolted by some barbarian.
Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, Marc Tierny, 5 Jun 1984.
The dihedral in the upper left of the alcove. Andrew says it is a nice climb ...
Andrew Martin, October 2012.
Go up and rightwards across the brown and black face, desperately milking as much value as you can from the miserably small side-pulls. Great stuff.
Andrew Martin, Nov 2012.
Left facing corner. According to Gerry it is "not as grovelly as it looks".
Marc Tierny, Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, 5 Jun 1984.
The main face at New Horizons buttress. A beautiful line of natural holds on perfect dolerite. Grade 25 face climbing to a desperate boulder problem at three quarter height.
Ingvar Lidman 25/5/14
Superlative arete. Occasionally climbing on the face right of the arete.
Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2012.
The offwidth. Apparently, "it had to be done". The climbing itself may be even worse than the name; but you'll have to climb it to find out. Don't expect much gear.
Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2012.
Steep corner on R. Hard in the middle ... maybe more than 20.
Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, Marc Tierny, 5 Jun 1984.
Thin stuff on bolts.
Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2013.
More thin stuff. This is the right-most of the established climbs, so is the first one you see on arrival.
Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2013.
The Block
The monstrous chunk of Bare Rock that broke off to form The Great Roof now resides in the gully that runs Parallel to Bare Rock, directly below The Great Roof. This block is so massive, that it has a swathe of short, sporty route bolted on all sides of it.
Access by finding the block in the gully, directly below The Great Roof.
Bare Rock Bouldering
The gully that runs parallel to Bare Rock hosts a number of established boulder problems of reasonable quality.
THIS LIST IS A WORK IN PROGRESS.