Three O'Clock Hill
Acknowledgement
By Gerry Narkowicz
Introduction
The collection of four large boulders on the slopes of Three O’clock Hill offer some of the best sport climbing in the Fingal Valley. The Rock quality is excellent, and the climbing is characterized by slightly overhanging face climbing. The crag is south-facing which means a nice shady cliff in warm weather. The elevation is quite high (900m) and it is the closest hill to the east of the Ben Lomond plateau, so it can be quite cold at other times, though it is generally sheltered from the wind. Access is remarkably easy, just 25 minutes from Fingal on a good road and a five minute walk. You will notice that all the route names have a `Rock’ theme – how original and clever of the mullet man.
Access
From Fingal, take the road (B42) towards Mangana/Rossarden. The road climbs steeply out of Mangana and flattens out as it traverses the slopes of Ben Lomond. About 8km from Mangana there is a signpost for the Ben Lomond Walking track. GPS: -41.62409 147.77360.
Turn right here and follow a good gravel road for 7km to the crag. The triangular shaped Three O’clock Hill appears prominently while driving on this road.
About 1km from the crag, the road takes a sharp RH turn and 1km from this turn is
a substantial clearing to park the car and the boulders will appear on the left. On the LHS side of the road, a cut track leads steeply up the hill for about 100m to the crag. The first cliff you come to is One O’clock Rock, and the magnificent cliff of
Three O’clock Rock is 30m further up the hill.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (fingalvalley@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
GPS
One O'Clock Rock
The first large boulder you come to on the approach track which as a couple of good warm-up routes.
On the LHS of the face. Starts steeply with some fun moves up to a large jug at half height, then join the neighbouring route and trend right up to the anchors.
Gerry Narkowicz, 2 September 2023
The central line. Good steep climbing with big moves between large holds, then trend left at the bulge to stand on the large jug and some insecure moves up the final groove to the anchors.
Gerry Narkowicz, 2 September 2023
Steep line to the right with some great moves. Shares the same anchor as Rockin all over the World.
Tom Baanders, 29 December 2024
The line close to the arete on the RHS of the cliff which you walk past on the approach track. Terrific pumpy climbing with long reaches between big holds. Stick clip the first bolt.
Gerry Narkowicz, 15 February 2024
Two O'Clock Rock
30m left of One O’clock Rock is a very steep boulder.
Fun, mostly juggy route up the very steep prow of the buttress, with a crimpy crux going past the 4th bolt.
Gerry Narkowicz, 9 October 2023
Three O'Clock Rock
Continue up the hill for a short distance beside One O’clock Rock to arrive at the largest cliff in the area.
Whiskey on the Rocks
★★20m259ÞThe LH arete of the buttress, shown on the topo as a closed project, has now been climbed. Up the left-trending steep corner to a rest under the roof, then a powerful bouldery move to turn the lip off the roof out to the right. Continue at a more moderate grade with some lovely moves up the arete.
Andrew Martin, 11 April 2024
Starts up Rock Steady at the central line of bolts and traverses left on a ramp at half height out to the left arete of the buttress. Continue up the arete. Fun climb.
Gerry Narkowicz, 22 August 2023.
Up the central line of bolts as for Rock Steady, then at the bulge traverse left out the ramp at half height for a couple of bolts then blast straight up the wall with an exciting layback move to stand on the jug in the middle of the face, then a baffling move to overcome a blank section to move left into the upper section of the route.
Gerry Narkowicz, 22 August 2023.
The central line of bolts. A sustained series of thin face climbing moves with a cruxy section going over the bulge at half height.
Gerry Narkowicz, 19 August 2023.
Beautiful series of flowing moves up a slightly overhanging wall with some miraculous jugs and some not so juggy holds in between. An awkward move in the upper corner then mantle on the slab to finish.
Gerry Narkowicz, 16 August 2023.
The arete with U-bolts that branches off to the right from Hard as a Rock. From the third bolt of Hard as a Rock, clip the first U-bolt and move right onto the arete (crux) then up the arete for a classy finish on large holds.
Andrew Martin, 26 August 2023.
Start up Hard as a Rock, then from the ledge traverse right onto the overhanging wall for some powerful moves on small holds, then trend back left to use a couple of holds on the arete of Let’s Get Rocked, before moving right to a separate lower off and an independent finish.
Gerry Narkowicz, 28 August 2023.
At the right hand side of the cliff are a couple of slab routes. This route traces an S-shape up the wall searching for the available holds which are few and far between. Superb technical slab climb.
Gerry Narkowicz, 19 August 2023.
The slab on the far right has a tricky move to gain the flake feature and move up from there. Entertaining thin slabbing to the top
Gerry Narkowicz, 24 August 2023.
Four O'Clock Rock
From the LHS of Three O’clock Rock, follow a cut path for about 30m over to Four O’clock Rock.
The slab up the middle of the face has some entertaining moves and is a little bit tricky going around the small overhang. 7B.
Gerry Narkowicz, 15 February 2024.
Near the RH arete of the buttress is a short overhanging groove with 5 bolts. Some nice stemming and 3-dimensional climbing up the groove and through the small roof. A fun climb.
Gerry Narkowicz, 22 February 2024
On the short, eastern face of the boulder is a juggy, slightly overhanging face. Great fun lurching between big holds and no doubt the best warm up at the crag.
Gerry Narkowicz, 24 February 2024
The route on the right hand side of the face is quite steep. A fun and pumpy route with surprising big holds and gymnastic moves.
Gerry Narkowicz, 24 February 2024