North Esk
5-30 mins
All day sun
Vertical dolerite buttresses, up to 25m high. Mostly trad but with some sport and mixed routes.
Acknowledgement
by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets.
Introduction
The climbing in the North Esk provides great entertainment, especially on those hot northern afternoons when a refreshing dip can add to the completeness of the experience and the rich tapestry of life. Not to mention those times when you head up towards Ben Lomond only to discover the mountain crags wet and horrible. Just bail out and slum it down in the lowlands. In summary, good climbing all year round. There are seven main crags in the vicinity, which are described in the order they are approached: Corra Linn Gorge, Crystal Palace, Riverbend, Hidden Crag, Grap Fureau, Dogs Head Crag and Castile Crag. Most (but not all) of these crags are described in this section.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
GPS
Access Notes - Private Land
Riverbend, Crystal Palace and Lead Shed will be CLOSED annually between June - October for the lambing season. Please adhere to the land owners wishes and climb elsewhere during this period.
Grap Fureau is currently CLOSED completely for climbing and/or public access on request from a separate land owner to that of Riverbend and Crystal Palace - and unfortunately may be more long term in nature. Please adhere to the land owners wishes, so any future access relations/discussions are not further compromised. If you have any additional information or updates, please contact the NCCT.
ACCESS - Amelia (the owner of the Riverbend and Crystal Palace properties) is very supportive of climbers climbing at those crags but has a few requests for us when we visit. This is a working farm and I think these points are worth keeping in mind for any farm property that we cross:
Don't block the gate with your car. Park on the far (south) side of the gate. This means that she can get her ute/trailer in if she needs to. Consider parking at the bridge and walking up.
Climb that gate on the hinge end to protect the gate and use that gate for access to both Riverbend and Crystal Palace cliffs.
When you get to the second gate (for Riverbend access) open and then close it rather than climbing over it.
NO DOGS!
When you walk to the cliffs stick to the edge of the cropped paddocks.
Stay away from all livestock. The cliffs will be closed annually for lambing season (June - August)
If you've been to other farms clean your shoes before you go. Biosecurity is a big issue for farmers and they don't need us tracking weeds and diseases through their farms.
Thanks for thinking about these things next time you go to Riverbend/Crystal Palace or any of our crags. Let other climbers know if they are not aware of how to behave when on private land.
All Crags in the North Esk Area are on private land or accessed via private land including those around Corra Linn Bridge.
In addition to the below details please refer to specific crag info regarding access.
- Do not park in front of gates or access tracks.
- Leave all gates as you find them
- No dogs
- No fires
- Carry out all rubbish (including finger tape)
If you must answer a call of nature at the crag, follow leave no trace principles by going at least 50 m away from the rock or the river, dig a hole at least 15 cm deep, and carry out any toilet paper in ziplock bag.
Corra Linn Gorge
To get to the Corra Linn bridge, a great little swimming spot, head for Ben Lomond. Soon after leaving the city bounds, the North Esk river will be crossed at a bridge, a mere ten minutes drive from the city.
The climbs either side of the gorge, downstream and underneath the Corra Linn bridge. Access to downstream climbs is either via, swim, small boat or a walk over the bridge and downstream across the paddock to the end of the cliff then back along the base of the cliff.
An extensive guide to these routes can be found in the North Esk rock climbing guide book.
Circuit Board
Around the second bend in the river, 150m downstream from the bridge is a short featured face on the eastern shore. Climb the central line using face and crack holds with good protection in the crack. A beautiful climb.
Steve Postle and Patrick Munnings 21/2/21
Main Face
Abseil from the top of the cliff and set up a hanging belay. Climbs the crack on the right-hand side of the main face and finishes easily up the hand/fist crack. The first ascensionists stood on their belay partner to establish themselves on the first hold.
Gerry Narkowicz and Norm Selby - January 2000
One of the more exciting climbs in Launceston. 150m downstream from the bridge and opposite the diving board block, the main face becomes cleaner and more solid. The climb takes the central line just right of the ledge at water level and continues up via the finger, then hand crack to the right of the rooflet. The climbing is committing however the crux is in the first 5m and the climbing becomes easier as the fall into the water becomes more intimidating. Named after the K-Mart raft used to transport the first ascentionist across the river.
Patrick Munnings 21/2/21
Below the Bridge
Climb the corner and surmount the roof directly. Nice face climbing leads to the top.
McMahon, Narkowicz, Oct 1984.
Start off the platform directly below the bridge and climb the very thin crack up the guts of the crag. Absolute class. Can be a bit wet at high river levels (ie. underwater).
Narkowicz, McMahon, Oct 1984.
Downstream from Thin Lizzy, up to flake, over the small roof on the big spike and up.
McMahon, Power, Foken, 1984.
Bridge up the thin corner R of Balbec then up either finger crack above.
McMahon, Ling, Prall, 1984.
Lead Shed
Access: Private Land - Although Not Fenced this crag is on the same land title as The Crystal Palace and Riverbend.
50m upstream from the bridge. Step over the steel barrier.
Up to ledge then Jam up the corner.
McMahon, 1984.
Start just L of the orange wall, at a bottomless blank groove just right of the arête . Layaways lead to some underclings on the arête . Continue up, using further layaways off the arête to reach the jugs and the top.
G.Narkowicz, Oct 1984.
The arête with 3 bolts. Features on the cover of McMahons North Esk guide.
Selby, 1999.
Corner to the right of POT past small tree near top.
Tierney, 1984.
Start about 5m R of The Boys are Back In Town at the orange wall. Climb straight up the wall.
Narkowicz, Oct 1984.
The nice finger crack/corner to the R of Whiteline Warriors.
R.McMahon, Oct 1984.
The corner and off-width just R of GR.
McMahon, Holmes, 1999.
Up blocky crack to ledge then face above past 2 BR.
McMahon, Selby, 1999.
Short face to ledge and crack above.
Prall, 1984.
The Crystal Palace
Access - This Crag is on private land. The land owner has given permission to access the crag for climbing. Lets keep it this way. See the note at the start of the North Esk guide for details
The Crystal Palace is a few hundred meters upstream of the Lead Shed. It is best approached by walking from the parking space for Riverbend (see Riverbend below) through the gate (GPS NES000) and turning immediately L back parallel to the road, heading towards the bridge. At the end of the roadside guardrail, head towards the river and you should find yourself above the climbs, about 100m in total distance (GPS NES010).
The gully left of Crystal Laces. Climb up the left wall in the chimney then up through the roof to a ramp then up the headwall to the top. Trad gear to about half height. Two FH and DBB.
Kearnes, Webb 08/01/2019
Go up the gully left of Crystal Laces. Climb up the blocky face to an overhang, clip the bolts and pull through the roof (crux) onto a slabby finish. Natural gear, 4 FH and DBB.
Fox, Kearnes, Webb. 02/02/2019
On the downstream end of the buttress is a crack that ascends a blocky face to a ledge. Begins as a finger crack, then hand crack. Mantle onto ledge and follow the twin cracks to the top.
McMahon, Narkowicz, Smith, 1982.
Even better than the song. Up Crystal Laces to the main ledge, step R to arête and then up.
Bissett, Vincent, 1998.
Climbs the blocky wall between Crystal laces and Stanley pub, with bouldery start, then joinging JCP for the last few metres.
H Jackson and S Joseph 2013/14
Climbs up Stanley Pub and hand traverses L to join JSP finish.
Baxter, 2007
Pleasant corner R of JSP. Steep, but easy.
Ling, Smith, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Hand jam the corner, with thinner sections higher. Good face holds on blocky sections.
Narkowicz, McMahon, Smith, 1982.
Corner to roof and bolt. Past this and up corner to the top. Retrobolted, 1997.
Narkowicz, Smith, McMahon, 1982.
Line around the corner from SP. Up to a tree, finish up off-width.
McMahon, Narkowicz, Smith, 1982.
Face and crack climbing up the side of the pillar. Up the flake to a ledge, then up chimney to top.
Narkowicz, Smith, McMahon, 1982.
Start on the R where the ledge ends. Follow the line up the face , then onto arête to finish.
Narkowicz, Smith, Ling, McMahon, 1982.
From top of cliff drop down short gully on western side, climb the R trending diagonal crack on the wall facing downstream.
Dennis Kearnes 1995.
Riverbend
Access - This Crag is on private land. The land owner has given permission to access the crag for climbing. Lets keep it this way. See the notes at the start of the North Esk guide for details
The cliffs at Riverbend are about thirty minutes from Launceston (ten minutes drive and twenty minutes walk). There is a great variety of climbs and some are excellent. Most routes are on natural gear, with a few modern sporty ones for the hard boys and girls. Drive to Corra Linn bridge on the C401, and park 200m further on at the first gate on the L (the farmer has asked that climbers park past the gate so they can access the gate. The cliffs are approximately 1 km walk across the paddocks, on a bearing of about Mag 20. From the gate (GPS NES000), head across the field (roughly MB 40º), striking the first saddle at a clearing, about the fifth major tree from the R. A faint 4wd track descends into the next paddock and past the dry creek. Walk on the edge of the paddock. Keep on that bearing, to the only gate at the top R end of the field, about 5 minutes walk from the car. Follow a track up, trending L, through the light bush to the next crest and a big dead tree on the ground. You are heading for a big cairn at the top of the gully between Jesus Freak and Claire (GPS NES020). A second descent gully lies a further 60m or so upstream, descending steeply by Bullfrog Buttress. The Guide describes the climbs L to R, starting at Home Buttress, the furthest L crag (as you face the cliff), about 60m L from Bullfrog Buttress.
Home Buttress
About 30m left of Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter is a small buttress. This is the L most line.
McMahon, Ling, Mohlar, 1982.
The middle line.
McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Towards the R of this buttress is a thin corner. Layaway up the corner using face holds on the L.
Narkowicz, Tierney, Sep 1984.
Reculer Buttress
About 30m left of Bullfrog Buttress is a buttress with a 1m roof at ground level. Slightly uphill is a free-standing pinnacle. There are a couple of gross looking choss-buckets on the R of this, but some class up L. This is Reculer Buttress. There is a DBB above Only Boomerangs Come Back.
Climb the corner directly opposite the chimney. Avoid bridging unless you feel you're about to die.
D.Gray (solo), Dec 1996.
Climb up the arête , past the single bolt and up to the U at the top. Beware the "dinnerplate" rock for the final move. Rap off the final bolt.
Ng, 1986.
The most striking line in the vicinity. Follow the finger crack until it fuses, then move R and up. Rap station.
McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Start as for Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter. Climb this for 4m to the horizontal break, traverse R for 2m, then climb up the extremely thin seam using face holds on the L wall.
Narkowicz, Tierney, Apr 1983.
Start 2m to the R. Up past a carrot to join the above climb.
Ng,1996.
Climb the offwidth facing the river with big gear, trend left after, over some musical flakes with small gear and nice faceclimbing, mantle into the dihedral to climb to the DBB of OBCB
Jeroen Jansen, Shelly Napier, 5 December 2019
Layback up the face (or use the offwidth if you're masochistic) to good gear, then launch straight up past the 2 bolts to a bouldery finish up the blank v-corner. DBB which can also be used for rapping off the previous climbs.
M.Perchard, Dec 1996.
The chimney R of the above climb. Looks shithouse, but its been done!
Ling, McMahon, 1982.
Climbs the LH edge of the pinnacle, just R of the deep chimney. Climb straight up the steep arête , past a lone bolt.
Ng, 1986.
Climb the R sided of the pinnacle past 3 FH. Great moves and an "out there" feel for a small climb. DBB.
Designed by Dave Grey, soloed by Marc Tierney (1997) and bolted by Fox.
Bullfrog Buttress
The most obvious buttress in the area is Bullfrog Buttress, which has a good range of routes up the bulging overhanging wall, and the steep classics further R. The descent into the area generally accesses this buttress first, and is the best place to get bearings from.
On the extreme L of Bullfrog Buttress is a micro-thin crack through a roof followed by a finger crack. Climb to the roof, then reach over this for a layaway. Two successive dyno's on flat holds lead to the finger crack.
Narkowicz, Sep 1984.
Nominated "best name of the year" in 1982 for the full version Don't You Hate Them Mornings When You Wake Up With Them Bullfrogs On Your Mind, it is (obviously) generally abbreviated to Bullfrogs. About 4m L of PMOUF is an easy looking line, where the angle of the roof eases. Climb it.
Ling, McMahon, 1982.
The line of 3 bolts 2m R of Bullfrogs (same start as PMOUF). Not so hard if you trend L a bit.
Grant Rowbottom, 1997.
Takes the easier of the two obvious parallel lines through the roof. To access this climb a bouldery start (obvious) to horizontal. Traverse R 2m to the peapod then up crack through roof.
Narkowicz, Smith, Oct 1982.
Same start as PMOUF but keep traversing another R to the next crack. Up past a twenty-year old piton.
Smith, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Start directly beneath the 5 FH and crank away to glory. DBB.
John Fisher, 1997,
Start on the block, move L and follow the crack system to the top. Sustained and tricky for the gear, but a great climb. A direct start has been added by Gerry at 26.
Gerry Narkowicz, 1984.
Takes in the most impressive bright orange wall on the crag. Start as for Kickstart Corner. After climbing that for 3m, traverse L across the overhanging orange wall leftwards to the arête, then follow the crack to the top. Reachy and committing.
Narkowicz, Tierney, Sep 1984.
The corner L of Kickstart. Climb up the steep corner for 3m to the block. Move up over this, then finish up the hand crack and steep face.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Start off the block and (with great difficulty) gain the crack, with good pro. Continue jamming straight up the steep crack. A brilliant route. Descend by down-climbing the easy chimney behind Initial Resistance.
Narkowicz, McMahon, Oct 1982.
The route to the right of Kickstart. Another problematic (unprotected) start leads to easier jamming, palming, laybacking; the only way this rock hasn't been ascended is blindfolded!
McMahon, Narkowicz, Oct 1982.
Cross another gully, to the buttress about 30m right of Bullfrog Buttress.
Northern Girls Buttress
The first obvious line, taking in the searing finger crack up the steepish wall. Start off the block. Finger jam to the small roof where the crack thins. Layaway over this (crux), heading L for a good hold, some poxy fingerlocks before collapsing on the finishing ledge.
A direct start has bee done by Isaac Lethborg which goes up past 1 bolt to the ledge where Northern Girls usually starts from. Add a grade for the direct version
E.Peacock, J.Kennedy, 1984.
Just R and around the corner from Northern Girls are four good looking lines. This is the L most one. Jam up the hand crack, then finish up the easy offwidth/chimney.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
The next two lines are very close parallel cracks - Full House and Royal Flush. They are probably best climbed as one.
The L most of the twin cracks right of Life Support.
Ling, McMahon, 1982.
The thin crack/corner 1m R of FH. From the ledge go over the block on the R and up the face and arête.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Start at base of Royal Flush then aim for the first bolt. After the large ledge at half height slab moves past two more bolts. DBB.
Narkowicz, 2001.
Two bolts on the arête 3m R of The Last Minute lead to the large ledge at half height then two more protect the top arête. Same DBB as TLM.
Narkowicz, 2001.
4m R of Royal Flush go up wide crack to ledge then up hand crack in corner.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
The face with 3 FH and some natural gear. Difficult to avoid going right at the top. You may want to stick-clip the first bolt which is a ridiculously high placement for shorter folk.
Narkowicz, 2001.
The blank looking corner to the R. Originally soloed to the halfway ledge, in 1985, and then later retro bolted to include the 'impossible' upper corner.
Gerry Narkowicz, 2002,
Claire Buttress
Go R for 30m to another small crag, bright orange in colour on the L and R, and black stained in the middle (where the bolted line goes up). On the L of the face is a thin crack.
Start just R of the black face. Another easy jam, climb the leaning corner with the tree at the top. Rap station.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
The blank looking face R of Claire. Climb the seams on the RH side of the face to a horizontal seam, traverse L along this to gain the top as soon as you can. Run out.
Narkowicz, 1984.
Climb the thin rightwards trending crack up the steepish corner. DBB.
Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
The line of 3FH 5m to the right of "In Your Town". Take a cam (#3 ish) for the horizontal break then over the top to the DBB.
Ng, 1986.
The easy crack just R of Ankle Biter which goes through a small roof at 3m. A bit problematic through this, but eases after that before a sharp finish!
Narkowicz, McMahon, Smith, 1982.
Alternate start to the above. Crack 1m R .
McMahon, Mohler, Narkowicz, 1982.
Next corner, uphill and R.
McMahon, Mohler, Ling, 1982.
Powderfinger Buttress
Cross another dead-tree filled gully to the last of the buttresses, 30m to the R.
The first climb that you come to after the gully. Climb the blunt arete past 2FH to ledge then small cams on the face above. DBB.
Fox, DeCesare, 2019
2m right of "Waiting for the Sun". Climb past 2FH to horizontal break and small cams above. Shares same DBB as "Waiting for the Sun"
DeCesare, Fox, 2019
Twin cracks past several horizontal breaks on the LH end of this buttress.
Narkowicz, Kearnes, 1984.
Start in the chossy gully, 6m L of Powderfinger. Ease up past the large flake (at the time of this ascent it felt well stuck on) heading R for the small L facing corner. Straight up above this to the top.
Bill Baxter and John Gale, 25 Apr 2008.
Poorly protected. Face and thin seams L of Powder Finger.
Narkowicz, Tierney, 1985.
Intermittent crack and face climbing. Start at the block, and follow easy hand jamming to the bulge at half height with the difficulty increasing towards the top. A great route. DBB.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Start from the same block as "Drive All Night" but clip the bolt and move left up the face to a second FH and a tricky mantle. Continue straight up the face past small cams and wires to DBB.
Fox, Decesare, 2019
Climbs the face 5m to the R of "Powderfinger". Less than average protection. Start from the block and layaway up the edge until it runs out, then go directly up the blank face. Claimed to be one of the best climbs at Riverbend, but tread with caution.
Gerry Narkowicz, April ,1983.
Next line R of Drive All Night.
McMahon, Mohler, Ling, 1982.
Drop down the gully and along for another 20m for 3 more worthwhile climbs.
Bouldery climbing past 3FH to same DBB as Possum Prostanthera
Fox, DeCesare, Kearnes 2002
Climb the sharp arête past 2 FH on the detached block 2m L of "Too Much Alcohol". Give yourself an extra 2 grades if you avoid bridging across the chimney. DBB.
Kearnes, DeCesare, Hyland, 2002.
Climb straight up the finger/hand jam crack in the back of the corner to the hanging block. Good protection and a few good rests.
Smith, Narkowicz, Ling, McMahon, 1982.
Uphill from Too Much Alcohol 50m or access via decent gully downstream of Powderfinger rap bolts.
Off-width and thin finger crack side by side. Climb the finger crack, has good protection, little rest.
M.Koch, P.Koch, Nov 2013
Second Drop Buttress
Start in corner crack with solid hand jams to the roof, continue past small roof into off-width to finish on top.
M.Koch, P.Koch, Nov 2013
Right of “Until it Sleeps”. Start on obvious crack, the move to the lip is fingers and provides good jamming then face hold on top to top out.
M.Koch, P.Koch, Nov 2013
First crack on the buttress from decent gully. Climb thin crack, at the ledge head left towards shark fin flake and over the top to finish.
M.Koch, P.Koch, Nov 2013
Riverbend North Bank
From the top of Riverbend a ragtag collection of buttresses is visible on the other side of the river. Being largely south facing these cliffs are better in summer. Access either by crossing the river from Riverbend or by walking up from the Corra Linn bridge on the Launceston side of the river and dropping down when you are opposite the downstream end of Riverbend.
An isolated pinnacle on the most downstream end of the cliffs. Opposite Powderfinger. Climb the thin crack in the middle of the face and traverse R at the roof.
Selby, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1999.
50m upstream from Gone a Gutser is another small buttress called Marengo.
The thin corner on the far L.
Narkowicz, McMahon, Selby, 1999.
The hand crack on the L side of the pillar.
Evans, Selby, 1999.
Up the face of the pillar R of Camless Cammo past 2 bolts.
Selby, Evans, 1999.
The hand crack on the R of the pillar.
Evans, Selby, 1999.
The hand crack on the far right.
McMahon, 1999.
Continue up river on the top of the hill for 200m until you come to a dead tree. Drop down hill here to the next lot of climbs on Funny Geraniums Buttress.
The off-width in the corner on the downstream end of the cliff.
McMahon and co. 1999.
The thin corner to the R of Lannes.
Evans, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1999.
McMahon displays his knowledge of Greek. The finger crack through the overlap.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1999.
The main corner crack system on the upstream end of the crag.
McMahon, Evans, Firth, 1999.
Up the arête right of Funny Geraniums past hollow block to thin crack on the L .
Narkowicz and co., 1999.
Hidden Crag
Access - Crag is on private property and access arrangements are not clear. If you have any information please pass on to CCT so we can update details and clarify with property owner in the future.
Drive and park as for Grap Fureau, and follow the trail as for that crag. At the T-junction turn left and follow the pipeline downstream for 20 minutes. This brings you to a concrete tower. Follow the overflow creek from the pipeline downhill on the left side for 300m to a cairn, then contour left for another 200m to a tree possibly still marked with 3 tapes. Down hill leads to Slit Skirt Buttress, Little Black Buttress, The Burma Face and Klingsor. Straight ahead leads to the Pillars. Alternatively and definitely quicker access is to drive along the highway and park at the gate (which gets locked at 3pm) to the Water Treatment Plant. Walk 1.3km along the road to a farm gate on the right just before a cattle grid. Follow the 4wd track across the paddock for 150m to a junction with a footpad. Turn right and walk another 150m to arrive at the concrete tower and overflow creek.
The Pillars From the three tapes junction contour downstream for 150m to an alcove shaped series of pillars.
The slabby arete on the left of the crag.
Neale Smith & Gerry Narkowicz, Sep 1983,
A superb finger crack at the back of the alcove.
Nik Deka, Mick Ling & Neale Smith, Sept 1983,
Chimney offwidth at the back right of the alcove.
Bob McMahon, Neale Smith & Gerry Narkowicz Sept 1983,
The freestanding pillar on the right. Climb right past the first bolt, then blast up the frantic arete past three more to a DBB.
Nick Hancock, Jan 2012,
Slit Skirt Buttress 30m downhill from the 3 tapes junction turn left at the rock cairn and follow your nose for another 30m.
The classic jam crack in the middle of the buttress becoming off-width towards the top.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1983.
The thinner right hand crack around the arête and 4m right of Slit Skirt.
Smith, Deka, 1983.
The next 2 climbs are on the Little Black Buttress which is 30m downhill from the rock cairn turn-off to Slit Skirt Buttress.
The thin corner on the left hand side of the black face.
Deka, Ling, 1983.
The next route right.
Narkowicz, Smith, McMahon, 1983.
Another 30m downhill and down stream from Superman is a pair of pinnacles with 2 excellent routes on them, not to mention some of the longest routes in the North Esk. The first pinnacle is easily visible from the trees with double tape markers on them.
The thin seam on the middle of the upstream pillar. Start at the very bottom of the buttress in the thin cracks just right of the corner.
Narkowicz, Kuylaars, 1999.
The companion route on the downstream pillar. Climb up the intermittent crack system starting in the left trending slot.
Narkowicz, McMahon, Ling, 1983.
To get to the Burma Face head downhill 50m and upstream 50m from the Little Black Buttress. This should bring you to the top of this cliff which is right above the river. Rap in.
The left most route with a small roof at half height.
Ling, McMahon, 1983.
Climb the face to traverse right at the top.
McMahon, Haye, Alanvale college, 1983.
The corner right of BB.
McMahon, without Alanvale college, 1983.
If you continue downstream from Klingsor for 60m you'll get to The Prows. The name for which becomes obvious from the downstream side.
Climb the right hand prow which looks like a stack of blocks.
Ling, Narkowicz, 1983.
Another 30m downhill from The Glass Bead Game and around the corner for the final 2 climbs.
The corner with two cracks in it, to the left of the smooth face, with a snaking crack at the very top.
McMahon, Tierney, Cassidy, 1983.
Up the smooth face with the thin seam using arête. Original ascent used a piton in one of the horizontal breaks.
Kuylaars, Narkowicz, 1999.
Peyton Place
Access - Crag is on private property and access arrangements are not clear. If you have any information please pass on to CCT so we can update details and clarify with property owner in the future.
If you're going to walk from Hidden Crag to Grap Furoh or vice-versa then this place is well worth a visit. Access: From the t-junction above Grap Furoh follow the pipeline towards Hidden Crags for 500m. A rock cairn and some orange tags mark the way.
The left hand crack.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1983.
The stepped corner useful for reference.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1983.
The arête with a large flake at 5m height.
Narkowicz and McMahon, 1983.
The fused corner with a FH.
McMahon, Smith, Narkowicz, 1983.
The thin corner with a stump sticking out at 2/3rds height.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1983.
The arête and face with 2 FH which are reachy to clip.
Narkowicz, 1999.
Grap Fureau
Access - Grap Fureau is currently closed for climbing and/or public access on request from the land owner. This is separate closure to that of Riverbend and Crystal Palace - and thus may be more long term in nature. Please adhere to the land owners wishes - so any future access relations/discussions are not further compromised. If you have any additional information or updates, please contact the NCCT.
This crag has a very different feel to it from your typical dolerite cliff. Stunning orange rock with black faces make a great visual contrast. There are two sections of the crag separated by about 100m of casuarina. Some of the rock on the upstream cliff has a strong resemblance to Arapiles. September/October can be difficult to climb here unless you can have rational conversations with screaming falcons. To get there take the road to Ben Lomond, until 7 km past the Corra Linn bridge where there's a sign for the water treatment plant. 400m past this is a locked gate on the left with a dirt road behind it. Don't park here if you want to be able to drive your car home. Park further up the road. Follow the track for about 10 minutes until you come to a large concrete water pipe. Turn left for another 50m to a cairn, and orange tape. Follow this dropping down the gully on the right hand (upstream) side to emerge at the bottom of the downstream cliff. About 20 minutes walk all up and easy to find.
Upstream Section
The climbs on the upstream section are about 100m upstream and slightly uphill from the end of the downstream buttress. As per the editors (read despot) instructions climbs are described left to right even though you will be walking past them right to left. So the easiest way to read this is to go to the end of the descriptions and work back to the start.
30m from the end of the main buttress is a small orange crag. Climb the finger crack in the scoop and up to arête.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
The orange corner 2m left of Class of '82, just right of the orange roof 2m off the ground.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
40m uphill from Lay Down Sally is a thin crack passing through an overlap.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
30m left of Lay Down Sally is a strange looking conglomeration of blocks sticking out to form little roofs. Climb up these.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
2m right of Montezuma. Through the little roof low down to the off-width/chimney above.
McMahon and Narkowicz, 1982.
Start in the corner of Ruling Class for a couple of metres until it is possible to traverse left onto the clean orange face. Climb the face past good horizontal cracks. There are 2 bright orange protruding blocks near the top that move a little but seem solid.
Andrew Geeves, Ben Veltkamp, May 2008.
Up the orange corner 5m left of Warlencourt. Currently has a fallen tree on the top of it.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Off-width crack 10m left of Lay Down Sally. Most of the off-widthing can be avoided. Starts of the ledge with the she-oak on it or add some extra distance by climbing the groove beneath it.
McMahon, Johnson and Lewandowski, 1983.
7m left of Lay Down Sally on the wall right of Wallencourt. Blast straight up the face past the intermittent cracks. Excellent.
Smith, Ling, 1982.
The big corner 2m left of Lay Down Sally. Goes up just left of the roof 2m off the ground.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Just right of the roof. Layback the hand and finger crack in the corner, 25m left of Flesh in the Sewer. Good climbing.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
The left slanting crack starting 3m right of Lay Down Sally.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Up the prow through the bulges 3m right of Rio Negro. As the name suggests probably done before but never recorded.
April 2019
More bulging baby bottom style climbing on the blunt arête 8m left of Rory Jack Thompson 3.
Tierney, Narkowicz, 1984.
Up through bulges in the first corner of the buttress on Arapelisian style rock.
Tierney, Narkowicz, 1984.
As you walk across to the upstream cliff from the downstream cliff you will see a fantastic looking orange face. The next two climbs are on this.
Good climbing up the prow on the left. Same start as Pioneer Chicken Stand then move 3m left at the ledge.
Narkowicz, Tierney, 1984.
Cracked face to ledge then thin crack above.
McMahon, Smith and Ling, 1982.
As you walk across from the downstream cliff to the upstream cliff a small buttress is visible up the hill about half way across.
Up finger crack in the corner going around roof on the right.
Narkowicz, Tierney, 1984.
Downstream Section
The remaining climbs are on the downstream section.
Starts just left of Blues Power. Traverse left to the middle of the face then goes straight up.
Narkowicz, Fry, 1984.
On the left hand end of the buttress are 2 corners close enough together to look like they could be the one climb. Blues Power takes the left hand corner and continues up the hand crack on the left.
Narkowicz, Ling, Smith, McMahon, 1982.
The grey and black corner 1m right of Blues Power. which then finishes up the right finger and hand crack.
McMahon, Narkowicz, Smith, Ling, 1982.
The face 5m right of Mac The Knife. Looks loose but is apparently solid.
Ling, McMahon, Smith, Narkowicz, 1982.
In the middle of this crag, 2m left of NPFW, the crack going through several bulges and overlaps.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
The corner capped by a large block at half height, 15m left of Peregrination.
Smith, Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
The corner just right of No Place For Whimps finishing up the same corner.
McMahon, Smith, 1982.
The next line right of TSONITM.
McMahon, Smith, 1982.
The blunt arête 2m left of Peregrination. Carry a rack only if you need the weight.
Narkowicz, 1984.
The twin corner with a tree on the ledge just above the base.
McMahon, Mohler, Smith, 1982.
Second Amphitheatre
The next series of climbs are around the corner from Peregrination. In what is sometimes called the Second Amphitheatre.
On the very end of the amphitheatre. Goes up orange wall to corner, over small roof with bush, then up off-width.
Narkowicz, 1984.
15m left of Shooting Rabbits is a series of corners, go left at the roof and climb the chimney.
McMahon, Fry, 1982.
Climb the first corner of Shooting Rabbits to the ledge then continue up the blank arête above. Good runners but difficult to place. A bit reachy.
Narkowicz, 1985.
The corner 1m left of Pocahontas. Climbs up a series of 4 corners.
Smith, McMahon, Mohler, 1982.
From the ledge after the twin cracks of Pocahontas continue straight up the arête. Initially done with pre-placed wires. Add a grade for placing them as you go.
Narkowicz, 1999.
The orange face with a thin crack that becomes 2 further up. 2m left of The Code. Climb the thin cracks to the ledge, continue up the fused corner (originally protected with a piton). Finish up the finger/hand crack with an overlap at the top.
Moon, McMahon, 1985.
The corner 1m left of Rat's Castle with pig face (don't you wish you'd paid attention in botany class now) growing out of the ledge 6m up. Continue up the next corner with a hand crack. Finish up the final crack of Pocahontas for a bit of extra spice.
McMahon, Fry, Mohler, 1982.
The big blocky chimney.
Mohler, Smith, McMahon, 1982.
Twin cracks in black corner eventually becoming hand and off-hand crack.
Ling, Deka, 1982.
Bold but excellent climbing up blunt arête 3m left of Wages of Sin to thin crack/face at the top.
Narkowicz, Cameron, 1985.
Difficult start to piton runner and then up crack system above. Apparently it is cheating to bridge across to Estimation corner (add 2 grades if you avoid it) but it's self-flagellation if you don't.
McMahon, Ling, 1982.
The thin crack in the black corner left of the off-width up to ledge and continue up corner above.
Smith, Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
The glaring off-width to the same ledge as Stuck in the S Bend.
Hans and Thomas Mohler, 1982.
The first climb in the next amphitheatre. A thin "S" shaped crack leading to a small ledge and then find your way to the top.
Narkowicz, Tierney, 1984.
First Amphitheatre
The next series of climbs are around the arête in the First Amphitheatre.
Climb finger and hand crack in corner to ledge then continue up through bulge and off-width.
McMahon, Smith, 1982.
4m left of Inheritors is a face with 2 carrots to ledge and then 2 more up the final wall. Excellent climbing.
Ng, 91.
Thin crack in right angled corner 15m left of D-Day.
Smith, Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
The flaring off-width just right of Inheritors.
Smith, McMahon, 1982
Thin seam in face half covered by a dead she-oak at the top. Hopefully some kind soul has removed the she-oak. 2m left of Hans Solo.
Smith, McMahon, 1982.
The easy corner.
Hans Mohler, 1982.
The hand to off-hand crack up the arête.
Mohler, Smith, McMahon, 1982.
Climb the arête right of the off-width.
Tierney, Narkowicz, 1984.
The next 2 climbs are on the tier above Foot and Mouth. Access by scrambling across and up from the descent track.
Climb the left hand crack to the chimney.
Narkowicz, Tierney, 1984.
The right hand crack to the overlap then the face above.
Narkowicz, Tierney, 1984.
Castile Crag
The furthermost crag upstream in the North Esk is that of Castile Crag. The climbs are not described here so take yourself off for a bit of an adventure or get McMahon's "North Esk" guide. From the Grap Furoh carpark continue driving another 2 km to Forest Rd., a dirt road on your right. Park here. On the left side of the highway is a fire-trail heading north past a small dam. Follow this for about ten minutes until you get to a cairn of rocks on the left side of the road. Follow the orange tags downhill and downstream for another 10 minutes. The new landowners of the property near Castille Crag request a phone call several days prior to visits by climbers. Phone John Adams on 0409 393748 or 0407 393448 to arrange access.