North Esk
5-30 mins
All day sun
Vertical dolerite buttresses, up to 25m high. Mostly trad but with some sport and mixed routes.
Acknowledgement
by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets.
Introduction
The climbing in the North Esk provides great entertainment, especially on those hot northern afternoons when a refreshing dip can add to the completeness of the experience and the rich tapestry of life. Not to mention those times when you head up towards Ben Lomond only to discover the mountain crags wet and horrible. Just bail out and slum it down in the lowlands. In summary, good climbing all year round. There are seven main crags in the vicinity, which are described in the order they are approached: Corra Linn Gorge, Crystal Palace, Riverbend, Hidden Crag, Grap Fureau, Dogs Head Crag and Castile Crag. Most (but not all) of these crags are described in this section.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
GPS
GPS
Access Notes - Private Land
Riverbend, Crystal Palace and Lead Shed will be CLOSED annually between June - October for the lambing season. Please adhere to the land owners wishes and climb elsewhere during this period.
Grap Fureau is currently CLOSED completely for climbing and/or public access on request from a separate land owner to that of Riverbend and Crystal Palace - and unfortunately may be more long term in nature. Please adhere to the land owners wishes, so any future access relations/discussions are not further compromised. If you have any additional information or updates, please contact the NCCT.
ACCESS - Amelia (the owner of the Riverbend and Crystal Palace properties) is very supportive of climbers climbing at those crags but has a few requests for us when we visit. This is a working farm and I think these points are worth keeping in mind for any farm property that we cross:
Don't block the gate with your car. Park on the far (south) side of the gate. This means that she can get her ute/trailer in if she needs to. Consider parking at the bridge and walking up.
Climb that gate on the hinge end to protect the gate and use that gate for access to both Riverbend and Crystal Palace cliffs.
When you get to the second gate (for Riverbend access) open and then close it rather than climbing over it.
NO DOGS!
When you walk to the cliffs stick to the edge of the cropped paddocks.
Stay away from all livestock. The cliffs will be closed annually for lambing season (June - August)
If you've been to other farms clean your shoes before you go. Biosecurity is a big issue for farmers and they don't need us tracking weeds and diseases through their farms.
Thanks for thinking about these things next time you go to Riverbend/Crystal Palace or any of our crags. Let other climbers know if they are not aware of how to behave when on private land.
All Crags in the North Esk Area are on private land or accessed via private land including those around Corra Linn Bridge.
In addition to the below details please refer to specific crag info regarding access.
- Do not park in front of gates or access tracks.
- Leave all gates as you find them
- No dogs
- No fires
- Carry out all rubbish (including finger tape)
If you must answer a call of nature at the crag, follow leave no trace principles by going at least 50 m away from the rock or the river, dig a hole at least 15 cm deep, and carry out any toilet paper in ziplock bag.