Other Northern Crags
The Sideling
15 mins from telecom tower at top of knockup hill
Afternoon sun
Basalt - Lava flow cap and possible vent similar to Hillwood
Introduction
All routes have rap chains and are protected by glue in carrot bolts and/or natural protection. Bring 4 carrot hangers and small-medium wires and cams.
History
No known previous climbing history
Access
DIRECTIONS FROM LAUNCESTON
1) Head towards Scottsdale on the A3 Tasman Highway for around 45 kms reaching temperate rainforest with many switchback hairpins bends known locally as the Sideling.
2) Leave the Tasman Highway at a hairpin bend taking a right turn down dirt road signposted Weetaly Road.
3) Take next right turn down a forestry road signposted Eagle Road. Follow this road for a few kms until you reach a T junction signposted Eagle 1 and Eagle 2.
4) At T junction continue straight over up a narrow dirt track for 500m until you reach the top of a hill with a telecom tower and turning area at the summit. Park here.
- If you don’t have a 4x4 park at the T junction and walk up the hill to the tower.
5) Walk 10mins (NW) through light scrub following pink flares along rocky ridge to top of the crag approx. 300-400m from tower.
6) Descend by following top of crag down to the right (N) then back round to the left (S) to reach the base of the crag or rap from tree or locate rap chains.
Camping
Free camping in at Springfield recreation ground or in Scottsdale at NE park
First route on LH side. Up overhanging face for with plenty of good jugs and a few bubble pockets. 4 x carrot hangers then on to rap chains.
John Harbinson - Sept 2014
Rap chains at top.
John Harbinson - Dec 2014
Rap chains at top.
John Harbinson - Dec 2014
Devil's Gullet
Devil's Gullet is a big dolerite cliff (up to 100m) out the back of Mole Creek, with relatively easy access to a lookout at the top of the cliff. It probably has potential for more routes. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz.
Interesting Intestines
★★15m245ÞAbseil 15 m down the east side of the detached pinnacle about 15 metres east of the lookout and swing out and left to a small ledge and DBB on the face of the pinnacle. Climb the arête to the roof and step left onto the sidewall. Make a long reach to the next break and traverse right on jams. Bear hug up the top arête via great moves. 5 bolts.
Nick Hancock & Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.
Vomit Blood
★★15m265ÞOn the east facing wall, 50 metres down the gully that leads to Henry Barber Buttress, about 150m east of the lookout, GDA 0443747 5386913, is a blank arête with five glued carrots leading to a dead white tree. Make some very entertaining moves to a respite at half height, then some radical barn door laybacking to the top.
Nick Hancock Nov 2006.
This route isn't in the McMahon/Narkowicz guide, but it may be a repeat of an existing route?
Awanawan
★45m18/20Stu Scott, Janine Hopkins, Dec 1991. Direct Finish: C Arvier, J Ridgers Dec 2018.
Meadstone Falls
Meadstone Falls is a very small dolerite crags up behind the Fingal Valley. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz.
Mt Barrow
Mt Barrow has a number of old style alpine ridge routes, and a few face climbs. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz.
The Nook / Badgers
The Nook is a conglomerate crag in the Badgers Range, just north of Sheffield. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz.
Tam O'Shanter Bay
There is quite a lot of basalt cliff line on the headland to the west of Tam O'Shanter Bay (Black Rock Point), near the township of Lulworth. To get there park at the boat ramp, and walk westwards along the coastline until you get to the cliffs (30 minutes?). You used to be able to 4WD to the top of the cliffs, but the security on the Army range is much tougher now. The first cliffs are columnar, further around is a steeper blocky (and loose looking) cliff. Some easier routes have been done on the columns, the steeper stuff would need cleaning of the loose stuff and bolting. There is more cliff line further west around the coast.
GPS
Township Creek
Township Creek is a series of small dolerite crags out the back of Fingal, with about 50 routes. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz. The walk in is quite enjoyable and the setting very pretty. The climbing is a tad chossy, but still nice.