thesarvo

Eldon

38 Problems0102030VE-23-56-89+
  • Walk20 minutes flat walk
  • SunAfternoon sun
  • RockSandstone

Introduction

Three areas have been explored with problems on two of these areas, The Knoll and Big Boulder, the third area is ten minutes further on from Big Boulder and has a cave and a few free standing boulders. There are isolated boulder problems along the Eldon ridgeline some seem worthwhile. The ridgeline and western hillside haven't really been explored yet.

Despite Eldon having been discovered for sport climbing ten years ago, bouldering is a recent discovery, the rock was lichenous and will need traffic to clean up fully. Don't complain about dirty holds, bring a brush.

Big boulder is a high ball area with surrounding problems being more normal sized. The Knoll has a range of average sized problems and tends to be the driest area.

Eldon dries quickly after rain.

Access

Eldon is about 50 minutes drive from Hobart via Richmond and Colebrook. At Colebrook turn right on to Eldon Rd, towards Tunnack. Follow this up over the hill and down the other side. At the bridge head left, onto the gravel road. Follow this until it turns back to bitumen and up the hill. Park on the side of the road just before the gate marked "Eldon Hill". The track starts 50m down the hill from this at a small rock shelf. Follow the orange tapes up the hill until you hit an old 4wd track. Turn right on this and follow it out towards the ridge. Instead of heading right here for the sport climbing, follow the track back inland and then turn right, following the orange tapes out to the Knoll.
If you lose the track head west (towards the road) until you hit the downhill then follow the ridgeline around, slightly longer but difficult to lose your way.
The crag and access walk are within the Spinning Gum Conservation Area which is public land.

GPS

The Knoll

The Knoll is a prominent knoll on the ridgeline. The problems are on the western and southern sides. Follow the orange taped track to the western outcrops. It brings you to the decent gully at the southern end of the main area.

Top Boulders

The Top boulders are above the access to the Knoll main area.

1.

Unnamed

★V2(SDS)

Start on large sidepull and jug/pinch.

2.

Standover

★★V4(SDS)

Start with crimps and pinch.

3.

Protection Racket

★V3(SDS)

Start with crimps on rail.

4.

Fugly

V3(SDS)

Start with lip and feet on back wall.

5.

Unnamed

★V4(SDS)

Start near Born Loser, but head left to the two ears on the arete, and up

6.

Born Loser

★V4(SDS)

When a good problem turns bad. Start on the slopey pinch at the back of the little cave.

7.

Unnamed

★V3(SDS)

Start on the undercling right at the back.

Main Area

8.

Unnamed

V0(Stand)

Needs a sit.

9.

Middle Left

V?(SDS)

Start as for middle right head left early.

10.

Middle Right

V2(SDS)

Start on jug head up and slightly left.

11.

Unnamed

V?

Hard line straight up.

12.

Right Arete

★V4(SDS)
13.

The Eldon King

★★★V5(Stand)

The undercut arete, the best line in the area. Jump start to the horizontal break, then power to the top. It could probably have a lower, harder sit or hang start added.

Jon Nermut, 2022

14.

Unnamed

★V2(Hang)

Start on the big flake feature.

15.

Unnamed

V1(Stand)

Start on the jug.

16.

Abrasions

★V5(SDS)

Start in the scoop and pocket, feet on the back wall.

17.

Skin in the Game

★★★V4(SDS)

Start on the roof pocket and pinch, feet on the back wall.

18.

Trifle

★★V0(SDS)

Start on the jug

19.

Circumvent

★V2(SDS)

Start in the scoop.

20.

Fridge Magnet

★★V4(SDS)

Start with the undercling and low sidepull.

21.

Fur Ball

★★V3(SDS)

Start on the Jug

22.

Gappy Tooth

★V3(SDS)

Start on the jugs.

23.

Peepholes

★★V4(SDS)
24.

Slab 1

VE(Stand)
25.

Slab 2

★V0(Stand)

Arete/slab

26.

Block top

★VE(Stand)

Cave with a view

Cave with a view is on the southern face of the Knoll.
Head south, around the ridge from the main area.

28.

Rudimentary

★V3(SDS)

Start on the knob and rail at the back wall.

29.

Cursory

★V4(SDS)

Start on the awkward jug, gets better the higher you go.

30.

Careless

★★V3(SDS)

Start on the undercling.

31.

Jug Haulage

★★★V1(Hang)

Start on the lip jug.

The Big Boulder

The Big Boulder area is a series of walls and buttresses near an impressive rounded boulder.

Access is from the Knoll ridge, follow the orange track until you are on the ridge proper and at a native cherry tree with two bands of orange and two bands of pink. Follow the pink tape to the top of the descent to big boulder.

Harmony Hut boulder

Harmony hut boulder is the first boulder you come at the descent gully

32.

Curtsey

★★V0(SDS)

Start on the iron knob.

33.

Harmony hut

★V2(SDS)

Straight to the jug and up.

34.

A Thanksgiving Turkey

★V2

Start on the break then straight up.

35.

Commit to Gary's Vision

★★V4(SDS)

Start on the jug rail, head for the jug. Be prepared to commit.

36.

Psycho Active

★V4(SDS)
37.

Mike's Project

★V4(Stand)

Done as a stand start to the big jug past the lip. The sit start and the high ball topout are yet to be done.

38.

Boom Boom

★★V5(SDS)

Hard sit, straight up the arete.