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Blog from March, 2014
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hey guys..competent but rusty climber new to hobart area..dont enjoy indoor as i prefer much more to be out in nature...all my gear got left in QLD so chasing new gear and some routes close to hobart..also going to try and get my girls into it as well..they have done a few of the walls at the market and so forth and at gymnastics class...they are 4 & 5 and lil monkeys as well : )...so any tips would be greatly appreciated...cant wait to get my feet in some rock again...: ) do youse ever meet up for a bbq or get togethers...
Hi
I left a white shirt near top of after midnight the other day. If anyone does the route over the next week, and can retrieve it, it would be much appreciated.
My mobile is 0447310091
Cheers Adam
My mate Kim has lost a white 80m static rope, last seen at the top car park yesterday. Not there today.
If anyone's seen it, or picked it up, can they give him a call on 0419959423, or drop him an email at kim_ladiges@hotmail.com
cheers
Cam
There has been extensive email discussion among a number of people regarding matters arising from the new route Epitome - this discussion appeared briefly here but has now been removed. It was probably too lengthy for anyone, except perhaps Dave James, to be insane enough to read it all anyway and ultimately some contributors to the group emails decided they did’t want this discussion posted online after-all as had been originally planned. So now, I include only the key issue as a reference, and an interesting contrast to the current discussions around style on the southern escarpments of the Ben.
Subject: "Epitome: Be warned that we didn’t clean much of the loose rock off. Many loose bits were used carefully in run-nout situations- it seemed to me to be part of the character of the climb. I love the diversity of climbing available on the pipes!"
This small comment has lead to a bizarre number of emails/ phone calls/personal discussions objecting to me (and Adam) putting up a (semi) dangerous climb in ground up style on the pipes. Someone has threatened to go up and completely change the nature of climb. Amazing!
There is ample precedent for this style on the pipes; climbing with spaced protection on loose rock is a legitimate activity according to my reading of the local history. You could spend a life time cleaning rock off some sections of the pipes and then go back and start again. Of course I clean stuff off like everyone else on most climbs... but I am amazed that people have taken exception to a climb done in the definitive minimal impact style. Of course I don’t pretend to have any say in directing others in how they are to behave, but do I ask people to respect their fellow climbers entitlement to continue to engage in a diverse array of climbing styles on the pipes - this diversity is something I suggest we should hang onto rather than suppress. Not all new routes have to be safe, bolted, popular, or inline with any particular persons views.... even if they are a guidebook editor.
See an essay discussing headpoint style on potentially dangerous climbs, in relation to the new wave of bold face climbs on Stacks Bluff
Had a good 3 days climbing on the pipes. A quick word of warning though.
Fare well to Arms has quite a loose flake at about 7m up on it. Enough that if it comes out it could cut the rope or land on the belayer. Also getting up to it has become a bit of a epic with the new vegetation. We rapped off the bollard at the top and then a gum tree. The rope sling at the top is in a real bad way so bring a sling if you want to do it,
The light g23 on the far L.H SIDE also could do with a edit in the guide. Its a good route but has become quite mossy like Beaten and Abused. For the light where it says grade 18 crack id say its harder and also carry a single rack of cams up to #3 camolot with double .5 camolots.
Hope this helps
Garry
Hi,
Could the person that removed the quickdraws on the project next to Heat return the third quickdraw please (orange black diamond biners with a BD or mammut dog bone).
Either leave it up at the project or contact me on 0400 073 014.
Thanks,
Dave
Gerry Narkowicz and Ingvar Lidman did a major new route at Stacks Last weekend called `Falling Off The Edge Of The World 125m, 23. See link below for description and topo
Hi everyone!
I just moved to Dport. If there are any climbers around that are keen to climb I need a partner! I climb sport, pretty comfortable on grade 20-21 but starting to get onto 22+. I'm fairly available, working only Mon-Wed, and very keen to climb, especially Hillwood area.
I'm also keen to get into Trad, but don't have the gear or know how yet.
My number is 0487109571
Cheers,
Darius
Anyone else climbed this recently? I was just reviewing the description after climbing it on Sunday with Tony and it seems to me that the length in the guide (68 metres) is significantly exaggerated. All I know is that we rapped to to the ground from the anchors on 60 metre ropes and had about 10 metres rope spare. The second pitch is described as 30 metres; I'd say it's more like 20. Comments?
Hi everyone,
I'm Julian, 23 yo from Germany. At the moment I'm staying in Brisbane but will fly to Hobart on the 8th of March. I will stay a few days but haven't planned anything concrete yet.
I'd love to do some nice climbs in tassi so if anyone keen and looking for a climbing partner please send me a text (0402581227) or an email (julian_q@web.de).
I can bring just the minimum gear(harness, shoes, helmet) and I may don't have a car there so it would be really cool if there is a nice person out there who would like to go for a few climbs.
I climbed the last months a lot in brisbane at kangaroo point and the glass house mountains so I know how to belay right and how to act outdoors. Usually I do top roping around 20 and the hardest lead climb was grade 18 but would also try harder or easier climbs it's just about enjoying the nice climbs and landscape in tasmania.
Cheers
Julian