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To Beard Strokers and Ipod Kids,

Re Geryon, PB etc., Well done heroes and legends, good to see wilderness climbing with due epics and suffering is not dead.

As to blogs they can be fun to read or boring when there is too much self glorification administered.

However I did find the Geryon one entertaining. It’s about time there were a few more beards and long hair around again.

Precipitous Bluff (PB) Photos:-

PB in winter from the air:-
PB Main Face:-
 PB Range Traverse:-
PB (Topping Out):-
Thirsty Beard Stroker in a sleet shower returning from a climbing trip to PB (1980s):-

Since everyone else seams to be shamelessly self promoting their blogs, I thought I would do the same. http://www.cjclimbs.blogspot.com.au This is the story of the new route me and Simon did at the Acropolis with pics and video. For the beard strokers, it may be a bit boring. For the iphone generation, I hope it inspires some to do a bit more fun-style documentation of their adventures! Also in the near future, I will be putting up last years exploits in Yosemite when I free climbed el cap and half-dome, as well as when I accidentally used poison oak as toilet paper. Something for everyone!

cj

Hi All,

I am moving to Hobart in a couple of months and have been trying to find out a little more about climbing in the area. I was gutted to hear that the Uni climbing gym closed recently, AND the Edge gym is also closed! Are there any indoor climbing gyms in Hobart at the moment? Is the Uni climbing gym considering re-opening? I have my fingers crossed!

Claire

Due to popular demand, and Al & Tony finally giving in, I re-ordered The Organ Pipes guide last night to be L to R.

Note that the old R to L version is still available for the time being at Mt Wellington Guide 2007 however this will no longer be maintained.

I did the first bit using a script then have done a first pass at fixing stuff that was wrong.

It now needs thorough proof reading to pick up all the broken stuff, eg out of order text and climbs or stuff that doesn't read correctly any more.

Please post anything you pick up here and I will fix it.

I'm not going to open up editing access to all (yet) as the next bit of editing and fixing needs to be controlled or we will end up with a mess. However I would very much appreciate proof reading and corrections posted here by anybody who has the time and effort, and I will make the corrections.

Hopefully in the next few month's you'll see a bunch of new photo topos.

We'll then make further changes to the organisation of the guide if the new formalised tracks and signage go in so that the guide pages match the new access tracks.

I came across this video from DMM on Chockstone and thought it was pretty salutory. Worth a look I reckon if you want your ropes to last.

Cheers

Doug

Hi All, I have a project near Deloraine - its called Flinty Rock. Its a large glacial erratic approx 200m long and 40m high. There are maybe 10-15 climbs on it of varying grades. Wondering if anyone is interested in spending a day on it with me. Will be working out anchors, rappelling down the face and hopefully doing some climbing. I am hoping to get onto it this weekend if weather permits. Let me know if interested. Thanks. : )

See links below for topos and descriptions of latest new routes at Fingal ad Ben Lomond

http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/02/26/ballbreaker-hardest-multi-pitch-on-ben-lomond/

http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2012/02/26/another-28-at-fingal-updated-topo/

hows this for an idea, much like like the new routes thread, how about we have a thread for all the things we lose and discover as we go about our climbing business?

ill make a start with a camera we found on the track up to rysavy ridge. think it was a bit damp and not sure if it still works but perhaps theres some photos on it? havent had a chance to look at it yet.

For anyone who doesn't regularly visit Chockstone, you might like this beautiful little video recently produced by Simon Carter.

On Bended Knees                    45m   16

The upper wall of Flange Buttress. An alternative finish to Fiddlesticks or Bert’s Fear.

From the Brown Madonna rap station, at the top of Fiddlesticks, climb L and up the broken slabs and corner, as for Bert’s Fear, to a hand crack splitting the steepening wall,Bert’s Fear heads R here into the corner-chimney line.

Jam up the hand crack and when it runs out traverse L to the finger crack just R of the nose. Up the finger crack to a large ledge and surmount the piled blocks to another ledge.

Traverse up and right for 3m across the chimney to two U bolts beckoning an abseil. (Top access to Pleasant Screams).

For the true direttissimo, however, climb through the bushes, through and over more blocks a further 10m to the top of the Column. Reverse back down to the bolts to abseil.

P. Robinson, T. McKenny, 10/2/12

Just returned from a climbing trip, valle di mello, arco and kalymnos and moved to hobart

Very keen to climb some stuff before Uni starts on the 27th feb. Cape huay, freycinet, pipes, ben lomond, frenchman's. i'm up for anything!

0416816183

simon

Popped out for a quick climb at Punchbown Reserve in launceston recently, We live nearby and have climbed there a couple of times now. 

I have noticed that someone has put in some bolts on a couple of climbs and was wondering if anyone had done any documenting of them? Being a bit on the new side, i would be keen to know how hard they are and what sort or quality they are.

im sure i will head back sometime soon, i will grab some pics.

cheers

 A new route at Arthur's Circus.

 Double Trouble or Triple Treat                 37m       17

The pillar at the N end of Arthur’s Circus.    A traverse, a wall and cracks with a few perched blocks on the way. Trad.

Start as for Polymorpha; abseil in to a block at the bottom of the corner.

Climb 4m up the left edge of the wall to gain a hand traverse sans footholds. Place some gear and head right without hesitation for 3-4m to the nose.

Steeply up the nose until one can move to easier ground. Belaying to a tree here will avoid rope drag.

Climb gently over two large stacked blocks just right of the nose to hand cracks.

Move carefully past a loose flake above these to the top of the pillar joining Polymorpha for the last few metres.

Phil Robinson, Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson      Jan. 2012

Claire on “Double Trouble or Triple Treat”  :- 

Hey there, putting the feelers out to see if there are any climbers around the Tullah/Zeehan//Rosebery area. Pretty long shot since everyone about these parts seems to be more into prying abalone off rocks rather than clinging onto rocks themselves, but if you exist contact me! 0439771484. I'm pretty keen to second any counts up to about 19/20, lead a few easy ones but only have a harness/shoes/belay device and slowly decaying strength. I'm very keen to go climbing again soon.....

Is anyone else having trouble with the climb search function?

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And then some more...