Bicheno
5 minutes
All day sun
Very large grained granite
Acknowledgement
by Nick Hancock, originally published in Craglets
Introduction
Bicheno is just 12km north of the turn off for Coles Bay, so a visit can easily be combined with a trip to Freycinet. There is a limited amount of climbing, but the granite is superb hereabouts, with some good bouldering to be found at the nearby Blowhole.
Whalers Lookout
This is the northern area. Park in a gravel spot below a track that heads north at first below a blank slabby cliff, then turns R below steeper buttresses.
Moby Dick
★6m25On the first buttress climb boldly up thin flake to a peg in the break, small cam also, then hard over bulge.
Nick Hancock 2005
Qui Quegs Coffin
★8m22On the main area 50 metres further south along the trail, climb the hanging groove.
Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason 2005
Lookout Rock
To get to the roped climbing park at the end of Morrison Street and walk up the main track skirting the west side of Lookout Rock.
Life Threatening Blood Clot
6m22On the way up the track you'll pass a blank looking wall with a horizontal break at half height. Climb the centre of the wall via two poor #5 Rocks, and finish with trepidation.
Nick Hancock, Jul 2001.
Economy Class Syndrome
★25m20On the west face of Lookout Rock itself is a L facing flake crack. Layback up this to a move R onto the slab. Up to a ledge and tree, then climb the final wall to the top.
Nick Hancock, Jul 2001.
Casuarina
10m15A few metres to the right of ECS. A short crack up to a Casuarina tree on a ledge, with fun moves through the bulge. Rap off tree, or continue to top. Note, no gear or anchors at top of cliff.
Gab Olah & Jerome Holleman, Jan 2015.
Deep Vein Thrombosis
★★15m26On the R side of the north face, up the gully to the L of Economy Class Syndrome is a thin finger crack, with hard to place wires at the top.
Nick Hancock, Jul 2001.
Nick Park
From the end of Harveys farm Rd, just after 321 and before Avalon, walk south for 15 minutes until the path touches bare granite slabs. From here go down and the right to a small crag about 30 m before the sea.
The Wrong Trousers
6m10Just left of the blank central slab, climb a crack into a short right-facing corner.
Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock Jul 2004.
A Close Shave
★★6m26ÞFrom a couple of moves up The Wrong Trousers, make a few desperate moves right past a bolt to a good hold. Step right, via another bolt, to the arête and finish excitingly.
Nick Hancock & Ashley Mason, Oct 2006.
Chicken Run
6m23To the right of the blank slab, climb a small blind right facing corner into a flaring finger crack.
Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jul 2004.
A Grand Day Out
5m5Four meters right climb an easy crack just left of the shrubbery.
Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock Jul 2004.
Tree Route
7m10A few minutes past Nick Park, on the main track, is a huge boulder. Climb the tree that leans against the south face of the boulder.
Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock Jul 2004.