Hazards Main Wall

30 - 50 minutes
Morning sun
Pink, slabby granite, up to 300m high

Acknowledgement

The initial content for this guide was sourced from Freycinet Peninsula: A climber's guide. University of Tasmania Climbers Club and the Climbers Club of Tasmania, 1995.

Introduction

The Hazards Main Wall sits in a truly spectacular location. The climbing here is serious and the potential for character forming experiences is high. The longest routes in Freycinet are found here.

The Main Wall is subdivided into Main Wall Left, Centre and Right to match corresponding topos. Routes such as Pneisses, Japhlion and Trusting Rust that are around 250m in length are located on Main Wall Left. Routes on Main Wall Left are not particularly well defined, making them tricky to follow. However as a general rule they tend to follow the cleanest slabs in amongst the confusion.

Routes on Main Wall Centre are shorter and generally less than 150m in length. Routes on Main Wall Right taper down into single pitch climbs. Route finding for both these areas is more straightforward, with most routes following strong natural lines.

To enable route familiarisation, identifying the routes Japhlion, Lucky Streak, Winning Streaks, Stud City, Touch and Go and Full Sail to use as way points is helpful. The Main Wall Overview topo further aids the identification process.

The initial section of the Skyline Traverse from Sleepy Bay carpark to Mt Parsons is the principle approach route for the Main Wall and adjacent crags. Equally important approach routes are two other traverse lines; the Sea Level Traverse and the Mid Level Traverse that branch off the Skyline Traverse.

For climbs that finish short of the top of the cliff, a scramble is required to reach the crest. Allow enough time for route finding and remember descents from this crag can be epic in the dark.

A number of expansion bolts and mild steel carrots placed in the 1980s and 1990s have been flagged by the Climbers Club of Tasmania for replacement. Where encountered, these should be treated judiciously.

In October 2024 the Main Wall routes were reordered left to right and new topos added in line with established convention.

Access

Access to the Hazards Main Wall starts from the Sleepy Bay car park. From the car park follow the trail down to Little Gravelly Beach and continue further around the coast to a boot cleaning station.

At the bottom of the hill 300m further on, there is a fork in the track. The Sea Level Traverse leaves the Skyline Traverse at this point, branching left to head along the coast adjacent to the waterline. The Sea Level Traverse provides access for routes on Main Wall Left when sea and swell conditions are favourable.

The Skyline Traverse follows the right hand fork which also marks the start of the climb up Mt Parsons. As you ascend following the cairned route, the Main Wall is visible to your left.

About halfway up the hill a prominent line of scrub appears on the left of the track. This marks where the Mid Level Traverse branches off to the left. Following the Mid Level Traverse is the approach for bottom up routes on Main Wall Left, Centre and Right.

Continuing further up the Skyline Traverse towards Mt Parsons, the Suzuki Complex is reached just before the track flattens out. This small crag is situated 10m left of the trail. This crag is close to where routes on Main Wall Centre top out. This point provides egress for routes such as Fiancetto, Kids on Skids, Lubricity and Stud City. It is also the approach via abseil for the top down route, Winning Streaks.

The Skyline Traverse relents above the Suzuki Complex and flattens out for 200m. At this point you are close to where the longer routes on Main Wall Left, such as Pooch Slab, Pneisses and Japhlion, top out. This is the egress point is also the approach via abseil for top down routes such as Serial Streaker and Lucky Streak.

GPS

Main Wall Overview

Main Wall Approach Routes

Skyline Traverse

★★8hrs2-3

If you are comfortable soloing granite slabs, then other than food and water, no gear is required. One fixed abseil point exists along the way but this can be bypassed with a down climb. The Skyline Traverse involves steep technical scrambling, advanced navigation skills and can be done in either direction though most people start from Sleepy Bay. The polished sections of granite are very slippery after rain, but when dry the friction is optimal.

Start at the Sleepy Bay car park and follow the track which heads south along the coast past Little Gravelly Beach. After the boot cleaning station, follow the trail for 300m to the junction with the Sea Level Traverse. Take the right fork and follow a cairned route which heads steeply up the hill before the remnants of a white dotted line begins. This section to the top of Mt Parsons is used as both approach and egress for a number of Main Wall climbs. It is also used to approach Suzuki Complex and Wombat Crag.

Continue following the faint dotted line over Mt Parsons, past a massive bivvy cave, until it ceases on Mt Baudin.

Navigation becomes more difficult as the obvious way to Mt Dove is blocked by deep ravines and massive boulders. Either rap in from the fixed abseil point or down climb a gully to the right (west) until you can traverse back south. Find your way through the scrub and boulders back onto the skyline. Continue south down to the col between Mt Baudin and Mt Dove and then steeply up to the summit of Dove. The difficulties are not over yet, as the steep scramble down the slabs and corners to the col before Mt Amos still requires care.

Most climbers finish on top of Mt Amos and walk down the tourist track. It is possible to make your way down through the scrub and over the boulders to the saddle between Mt Amos and Mt Mayson, and then on down to the Wineglass Bay track on the west side of the peninsula and back to the trailhead car park. Allow at least a couple of hours extra for this section.

First Ascent Unknown

Sea Level Traverse

★★8hrs16

Despite its name, the Sea Level Traverse at times detours some distance from the sea. If you are intending to do the entire traverse, be prepared for a swim. Take food, water, dry bag and at least a small rack and rope. Requires a still day that is not threatened by swell. It is slippery after rain and high wave action.

The first section of the Sea Level Traverse is an alternative approach for routes on Main Wall Left. Negotiating the Horizontal Chimney, usually requires the need to rope up and place gear and is the principle reason the Mid Level Traverse has gained popularity as a faster and more dependable alternative for approaching Main Wall Left.

Start at Sleepy Bay car park and walk down the trail to Little Gravelly Beach. Follow the coast around to the boot cleaning station and beyond for another 300m. Here the route diverges from the Skyline Traverse and goes down towards sea level involving some thoughtful scrambling and a watchful eye on the swell. Continue traversing until a gulch is reached. This is the Horizontal Chimney and using a rope and gear to climb it is at your discretion.

To reach the base of routes on Main Wall Left veer right shortly after the Horizontal Chimney and climb the slabs to intersect with the Mid Level Traverse on a prominent scrubby terrace.

To continue the Sea Level Traverse, pad easily along the slabs near the waterline. After 2km of traversing the slabs and climbing over short steps, you round a corner and see Flowstone Wall. At this point you are at The Gonk. Just after passing below Flowstone Wall you must swim about 50m. Scramble and walk more easily along the coast line, finishing at the north end of Wineglass Bay Beach. Return over the Wineglass Bay track to the trailhead car park.

R. Williams, L. Closs, summer 1970.

Mid Level Traverse

40mins6

The Mid Level Traverse is less of a route climbed in its own right, than a means to approach the base of routes on Main Wall Left, Centre and Right.

From the Sleepy Bay carpark follow the track down to Little Gravelly Beach. Follow the Skyline Traverse along the coast past the boot cleaning station, past the Sea Level Traverse turn off to head up hill towards Mt Parsons. Follow the cairned route until halfway up the hill at the point where a prominent line of scrub branches out left. This is the start of the Mid Level Traverse. It is cairned, and branches off left from the Skyline traverse at this point.

Follow a rough pad and cairns left and traverse round and down under the cliffs. There are two variant traverse lines. Main Wall Right routes between The Axiom and the Reprieve are accessed from a higher level traverse that branches off before the large slab. For routes on Main Wall Left and Centre take the lower level variant which traverses under the base of the large slab past the bolted routes Slippery Slope and Touch and Go. Follow a rising traverse to rejoin the crag at Stud City. From here the traversing gets more technical and exposed where it passes under Epaminondas. Beyond here the traverse descends and downclimbs a short chimney to gain the slabs. Follow the traverse line straight across to the scrubby terrace and base of Japhlion.

It takes about 40 minutes of careful soloing to reach the base of Japhlion from where the Mid Level Traverse leaves the Skyline Traverse. While the Mid Level Traverse is quite exposed in places, it usually does not require roping up. The Mid Level Traverse has gained popularity over the Sea Level Traverse as an approach route for Main Wall Left.

First Ascent Unknown

Main Wall Left

All routes on Main Wall Left start from the Mid Level Traverse with the exception of See Eagle Streak, Lucky Streak and Serial Streaker which use a top down approach.

Pooch Slab, Pneisses and Japhlion are the farthest left routes on Main Wall Left. To reach these routes follow the Mid Level Traverse to reach the scrubby terrace near its very end. About 15m before you reach Pneisses, drop down into a patch of scrub then continue along the traverse line to reach its start. Before the drop down 25m before Pneisses, you pass the base of Japhlion. It starts off the terrace where a patch of scrub has grown up against the slab just left of a small vegetated corner.

The Sea Level Traverse can be used to approach Main Wall Left if sea and swell conditions permit. However, the Mid Level Traverse is the faster and more reliable option of the two.

Pooch Slab

350m9

Left of Pneisses at a corner.1.Move up crack and onto the slab. Up slab to a small wall belay.2.Up corner 3m and across easy slabs to next wall.3.Up crack onto next slab. Follow this up to gulley to the left of the steep slab.4.Move left out of gulley onto easy angled slabs and straight up slab. Belay on scrub.5.Continue up slab to easy angled scrubby section above. Walk to base of next vertical section.6.Up a 15m wall. Move right from top of wall to gully in corner at head of the gully.7.Easy scramble up gully to top of the cliff.

J. Foden, S. Karpiniec Jan 1974

Pneisses

★★★240m15

A slab climber's dream day out. Don't forget your small wires (RPs). The second pitch has a leftward trend, staying close to the scrub on your left. If you don't trend left you will end up in Japhlion! Starts near the very end of the Mid Level Traverse after a drop down into the scrub to access a lower traverse. Start at the first scrubby crack 8m left of a right facing corner.1. 45mUp the crack for about 10m until confident enough to move right onto the slab, then head boldly towards the top righthand corner of slab. Drop off the edge of slab into the gully and go up a couple of metres to tree belay.2. 40mUp the gully for 3m, step out right onto slab, up past the tree and continue up the slab carefully, remembering to trend left, but staying right of the vegetation. Belay in the gully on the right.3. 35mMove diagonally out left and up to a hollow sounding stance. Up the LH line of weakness in the steeper slab above to a bush belay.4. 45mUp the slab trending slightly left, to a bush belay below steeper headwall.5. 30mUp RHS of the short headwall and slab above to another 2m wall. Over this and up to finish on a large ledge with a tree belay.6. 45mStep across a gutter onto the wall behind and follow the slab above to the top, keeping to the left of the thin crack.

B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 1975.

Pneisses (Direct Start)

230m19

10m right of Pneisses and a few metres right of the main right facing corner.1. 35m 19Up slab on thin holds following fused crack.2-6 195m 15Continue as for Pneisses.

A. Herington, B. Kennedy Jun 1984.

Japhlion

★★250m16

A classic slab that has challenged many fresh-faced aspirants - there are some long runouts. Start 25m left of the lowest point of the wall at the left hand end of an access terrace where a patch of scrub has grown up against the slab. The route starts up the slab immediately next to the scrub and just left of a small vegetated corner. Take your RPs and several extender slings.1. 50mAscend the slab under the overhanging arch of scrub keeping left of the vegetated corner. Continue up to a thin vertical flake with wire placements at 20m. Head left 2m, then up thin slab moves until the angle eases. Belay on a small ledge that has a frontage of small trees.2. 50mClimb left then up past a small clump of trees and through the bulge. Climb the slab above using an edge on the right for security, then continue straight up the centre of the slab and up a steep and bold section. Belay in a tiny cave 3m above where the slab steepens for a second time.3. 60mClimb the flakes above and up the slab just left of a vegetated crack/gully which is the source of sling protection. Continue up the slab slinging bushes as you go to belay in a group of trees on a ledge below a steep headwall and corner.4. 5mA short pitch to reposition the belay to ease rope drag on the next pitch. Scramble up to the base of the steep corner. Belay just above the final tree.5. 10mAn out of character pitch on which you may elect to haul your daypack. Layback and jam the corner and wriggle up the awkward short chimney to the ledge and belay.6. 35mClimb the crack just left of the corner to a ledge. Bridge and layaway up the small crack/groove in the steep wall on the right to where you can step right onto the slab and into easier territory. Up the final bulge then easily follow a rising traverse right avoiding small bushes to belay below the final slab.7. 40mTaking the easiest line climb straight up the slab to meet the Skyline crest and belay. The rock steepens slightly just before the top.

B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 1974

Griphon

280m19

Start as for Japhlion.1. 50mUp flake to where Japhlion heads left whereupon this climb goes up to recess at 35m. Up left to ramp then back to right hand end of wall.2. 10mUp wall to belay below small overlap above stacked blocks.3. 40mUp easy slabs moving left near top. Belay on water streak below weakness in large overlap.4. 45mSurmount overlap, step right, then up to overlap. Up to bushy ledge.5. 40mBash up scrub to slab below wall. Walk right to end of slab and shattered blocks.6. 20mClimb slanting corner with difficulty.7. 75mScramble easily to top.

D. Hain, B. Kennedy, Dec 1975.

Trusting Rust

230m18

An adventure of rare difficulty and deviation, this route has a strong rightward trend due to the first and third pitches.1. 50mStart as for Japhlion for 10m then move diagonally right for 10m past an inverted pocket and good wire placement. Continue up the excellent slab to good holds and belay.2. 50mTraverse right until you can move up onto the slab via a detached block. Keep ~15m right of the small broken overlap then head straight up the slab to belay at flake in 8m polished water streak, approx. 3m below large overlap (a ropestretcher).3. 50mMove to the right-hand end of the overlap and belay in the scrubby chute (another ropestretcher).4. 25mMove up about 8m, then left below roof then across cave to blocks and belay.5. 30mStep left on face holds then up crack to corner. Up corner to belay.6. 25mContinue easily to top.

E. Peacock, J. Kennedy, Jun 1984

10.

Trusting Rust Direct Start

★50m18

A single pitch climb in its own right. Up Japhlion for 5m, then traverse right past one bolt runner to a second bolt. Up and left slightly then straight up passing two further bolts, a cam pocket and a good wire placement to the top. Abseil off the tea tree.

G. Cooper, A. Adams, July 1991

11.

What a Crafty Snail

★50m17

A great route to gain confidence for climbing slabs. Utilises the same first two bolt runners as Trusting Rust Direct Start.1. 50mClimb Japhlion for 5m, then traverse right for 12m past both bolts into the line. Climb up passing 3 bolts to the top. To exit, traverse left and abseil off tea tree.

G. Cooper, A. Adams, July 1991

12.

The Artistic Fibber

60m20

Never climb past a good RP! This route is an RP placement masterclass. Start 12m right of Japhlion at a 2m tall tea tree growing against the cliff.1. 60mPreserving the necessary tree, climb into it, and step off onto the rock. Up gingerly to a hidden jug and runners. Continue up to a flake then make an awkward reachy move right to a layaway. Straight up to positive edges on the slab and the crux mantel to establish your feet on a small edge. Traverse right on the small edge into the base of the line. Follow the line of loose flakes to a BR. Up the overlap, then insecurely to a second BR. Up more easily following a line full of RPs. Step left at the quartz pocket to a positive flake, then up to a third BR and ledge. Continue up past a large stopper placement moving slightly right to climb an obvious RP crack to a belay at the top of the slab. RPs placements include: 1 x #1; 5 x #2s; 4 x #3s; and 2 x #4 and 2 x # 5 RPs.

A. Adams, G. Cooper, 13 Dec 1991.

13.

The Laughing Jackass

65m19

Feeling mortal? Then stay ground-bound. About 25m right of Japhilion, at the easiest place to breach the overhang until you reach Epaminondas, moving right. Near the lowest point of the cliff.1. 35mSurmount bulge and climb to just above the tree at 10m. Step left 3m climb up to belay at first opportunity.2. 30mPick your way up to the strong diagonal ramp 20m below the major headwall. Traverse 20m down the ramp to the left and either abseil off (a single rope will get you low enough to downclimb at about grade 6) or continue up Griphon or Trusting Rust.

G. Cooper, R. Sellers, Jan 1990

14.

See Eagle Streak

★★65m20

The water streak left of Serial Streaker. Approach from the top as for Serial Streaker and Lucky Streak. Abseil from DBB 25m to scrubby ledge with DBB, then another 32m left to DBB on scalloped arete of Serial Streaker. Abseil another 30m diagonally left to the base of a line of bolts on the next water streak. Belay from the first bolt and a tree at the base of the arete.1.65m 20 Continuously interesting climbing up a line of 9 bolts, followed by easier gear protected slabs to a belay from trees below the Lucky Streak ledge (this could be broken into two pitches with a gear belay after the bolted section). Scramble up through the scrub to the ledge. A dozen draws and half a dozen cams .5-3.

David Stephenson, Mel Sheppherd, May 2025

15.

Serial Streaker

★★90m18

A delightful companion route to Lucky Streak that takes the crack and water streak immediately to its left. Approach from the top as for Lucky Streak to first abseil on scrubby ledge, then abseil another 30m straight down to DBB at small stance on scalloped arete, then another 32m to a DBB (shared with Lucky Streak) on a small ledge just above the steepening. The pitches below are described under Lucky Streak.1. 32m 17Left up slab, following crack through a bulge and slab above, to move delicately up scalloped arete past one bolt to DBB at small stance.2. 30m 18Thin slabbing past 3 bolts and some gear placements, finishing slightly right up a series of ramps and small walls to DBB of Lucky Streak at scrubby ledge. Alternatively, rather than moving slightly right, after the bolts climb directly up over protruding lichenous prow to gain final slab of P3, combining P2 and P3.3. 28m 17Up slab diagonally left, stepping left past overlap with good cam to ledge at base of final small slab. Up this past two bolts to cam in crack, then diagonally right to hand crack, which is followed to finish as per Lucky Streak. Alternatively climb past first two bolts of Lucky Streak, then move left from undercling to gain hand crack.

David Stephenson, Mel Sheppherd, Sept 2024

16.

Lucky Streak

★★★130m22

A very nice and varied well-protected slab route accessed by abseil from the top of the Main Wall, or alternatively from the bottom via Trusting Rust or Epaminondas. Follow the Skyline Traverse track past the top of the Suzuki Complex towards the top of the Main Wall. After the track passes through a tunnel of overhanging boulders and starts to descend slightly towards the saddle, with small cliffs above on the left and below on the right, head left towards the ocean. A squeeze between boulders accesses a short leaf filled gully on the sea side with a gum tree growing out of it. Down this for about 10m to a scrubby ledge that leads 20m north towards Sleepy Bay and two U-bolts on the wall above. Abseil 130m (25m/35m/25m/20m/35m) off double U bolt anchors to a gear belay near the bottom of a polished water streak. If you only do the top three pitches the climb is 17.1. 35m 16Climb the polished water streak past a couple of gear placements and two bolts to a double bolt belay - a nice warm up for the next pitch.2. 18m 22Tricky start up the vertical water runnel followed by a balancey traverse left on the steep slab and then a bouldery crux to a double bolt belay. Packs a lot of interesting climbing into a short fully bolted pitch.3. 25m 16Lovely clean crack up the slab with good gear to a double bolt anchor at a small stance.4. 35m 17Line of bolts up the polished water streak to a double bolt belay on a scrubby ledge. Fully bolted with a couple of optional gear placements.5. 25m 17Climb the slab past two bolts to a cam placement in a flake, step left and follow the well protected corner to a final little slab then the top.

Pitches 3-5 David Stephenson, Justin Otlowski, Mar 2023, pitches 1-2 David Stephenson, Mel Shepperd, November 2025

17.

Epaminondas

★186m/226m17

A hoot for the grade, particularly the first two pitches. Named after a foolish and dimwitted boy from a children's story. Start 7m left of Fianchetto, directly below parallel cracks and the LH end of the first big roof.1. 31mUp small crack for 5m, left for 8m, up short right facing corner for 10m to stance. Traverse left for 5m to the base of a crack then up this for 3m to good stance and awkward semi-hanging belay on slab.2. 47mFollow crack up slab for 3m, traverse delicately left on horizontal break for 10m, up major corner for 4m, move 2m right to thin flakes and crack. Up crack and steep corner above to belay on slab near trees.3. 58mStraight up slab to the base of groove just below a tree covered terrace on the right hand side. Climb the groove to belay on the terrace.4a. 50mFat Boy variant: Traverse left off the terrace and across the cave. Climb the line leading out of the top of the cave to belay on a terrace at the foot of a short laid back corner4b. 50mPons Asinorum variant: A pleasant escape route and final pitch. Firstly to limit drag, reposition your belay to the right hand end of the terrace (10m). Step 2m down around the corner, then climb the delightfully scalloped slab to the top. Traverse right below the steep headwall across a dubious bridge (pons asinorum) to belay near scrub (40m). To exit, walk right along the terrace system, moving up a level after 30m to access an exit chimney and easier ground. Descent via the Skyline Traverse.5. 40mFat Boy variant continuation: Climb the short corner about and then up through the terraces. Descent via the Skyline Traverse.

Pitches 1-4: Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 1990. Fat Boy variant (pitches 4a & 5): Dave Gardner, Garn Cooper, Fat Boy Buckley, Mar 1993

Main Wall Centre

All the routes on Main Wall Centre except for the Winning Streaks area start from the Mid Level Traverse. For all routes from Stud City left, take the lower level variant under the base of the prominent slab, passing the starts of Touch and Go and Slippery Slope. The lower variant climbs back up to regain the traverse line at Stud City. Routes are described from Left to Right and follow on from the Laughing Jackass on Main Wall Left Hand Side.

18.

Fianchetto

140m18

A strong line is the best that can be said about this one. Starts 20m left of Cosmic City Flameout at a big steep left facing corner.1. 23mUp corner, left under roof, then up to belay on big loose flake.2. 22mContinue up, traversing left under headwall roofs, to belay where drag dictates.3. 55mContinue left until roofs end, then straight up to finish on a tree covered terrace below steep headwall.4. 40mStep 2m right and down around the corner, then up the delightful scallops to traverse right across a dubious bridge (see below for full Pons Asinorum description) below steep headwall. Belay in the nearby scrub.To exit, walk right along the terrace system, moving up a level after 30m to access an exit chimney and easier ground. Descent via the Skyline Traverse.

G. Cooper, B. Kennedy, Feb 1988.

19.

Auntie Helen, There's Something Furry In Your Fridge

143m18

Not even a strong line, but what an excellent name! Start as for Fianchetto.1. 23mAs for Fianchetto.2. 40mStep right then straight up.3. 40mStraight up slab to belay on the right side of a tree covered terrace.4. 40mStep 2m down around the corner, then climb the delightfully scalloped slab to the top. Traverse right below the steep headwall across a dubious bridge (pons asinorum) to belay near scrub.To exit, walk right along the terrace system, moving up a level after 30m to access an exit chimney and easier ground. Descent via the Skyline Traverse.

G. Cooper, P. Cullen, Feb 1988.

20.

Cosmic City Flameout

150m19

Neither too sustained nor inspiring. Starts immediately to the left of Don't Land on the Lunch at a large boulder.1. 30m 19Move up onto ledge, diagonally left along weakness then 5m up to follow flake. Move up wall above until angle eases.2. 40m 15Move easily up wall and slab to belay in small cave.3. 45m 16Climb fused corner until quartz veins. Traverse right then up wall to belay.4. 35mContinue easily to top.

B. Kennedy, P. Cullen, Jan 1977.

21.

Don't Land On The Lunch

★★93m20

A triumph over self-doubt. This testpiece slab was bolted on lead, so spare a thought for the first ascentionist, who climbed it ground up, before complaining about the lack of bolts and gear. Starts at a large boulder left of Kids on Skids, below two closely positioned bolts. Take an RP hanger.1. 56m 20Straight up past a small ledge and the two closely spaced bolts (carrots, topmost with hanger) to reach a welcome stance with spike runner (crux). Up the slab to a big cave. Pass the cave on the left and continue up to the right facing flake and gear (phew). Follow the line aiming for the apex of the triangular slab. From here, move right a touch then straight up slab via two overlaps for 8m to the left end of small 1m wall and DBB, 5m above is a steep headwall.2a. 30m 18Direct finish: Continue up the headwall via the obvious crack onto the slab and up to belay.2b. 37m 16Original finish: Traverse right from the DBB for 8m into a cave then up pitch 3 of Kids on SkidsAlternatively as an escape, rap off the DBB (1 x 56m).

Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Jan 1990. Direct finish Matt Perchard, J.Keane, Dec 1990.

22.

Kids On Skids

★★95m17

The first pitch is a psychological wrestle, the second a scalloped lichenous slab and the third a steep polished headwall . The stars are for the first pitch. Start 20m right of Cosmic City Flameout and 30m left of Stud City at the point where the overhanging wall changes to a slab under some small overlaps.1. 20m 17Up, traverse left to a small flake at 5m, then straight up through the overlaps to belay at small one man cave with slot in roof. Gear is good but relatively sparse and some of the rock is a little suspect. Rap off (while you're ahead) a thread here (2m long tape threads replaced Sep 2013).2. 40m 17Step right 2m then up an RP crack following the scalloped indents. Having a wire brush on hand would actually make this pitch pleasant. When the crack runs out and the angle eases, go straight up to belay at a small 1m wall, 5m below the steep headwall.3. 30m 16Step right a little and go up the steep polished cracks through the headwall. It is possible to escape this pitch by traversing 8m left to the DBB on Don't Land on the Lunch and rapping off (1x 56m).

Garn Cooper, Al Adams, alt, Jan 1988.

23.

Tic Tac Toe

15m25

Climbs the overhanging crack between Lubricity and Kids on Skids. Head right to Lubricity once topped out over lip.

Kim Robinson 12 Aug 2001.

24.

Lubricity

105m22

A good route which combines a very steep start with some beautiful slab climbing above. Awaits a direct third pitch which has been top-roped by seconds at grade 18. Five metres right of Kids on Skids, there's a ledge below and to the left of where a short left facing corner broaches the overhanging wall. Start here.1. 35mRight along the ledge, then up the corner to a sloping hold and bolt. More desperate moves up and left onto slab, which is followed past two overlaps. Traverse left for 5m under second overlap to a weakness leading back right which is followed. Belay on the ledge above.2. 30mStraight up passing a bolt in the slab, then slightly left and up to a #5 hex placement in the ocean of granite, then another bolt. Belay beneath the wall.3. 40mDiagonally right along ledge to a feasible crack system (8m). Up passing a cave on the right before moving back left to a slabby corner. Belay when angle eases.

Pitch 1: A. Potito, R. Eccleston Jul 1993. Pitch 2-3: A. Hasan, G. Cooper, A. Herington, M.Sands, Jun 1992.

25.

Winning Streaks

★★★115m18Þ

A clean fully bolted slab route that offers four excellent pitches of varied climbing. The best approach by far is to abseil in from the top, although it is also possible to reach the climb from the ground at a significantly harder grade via either Hootin and Jivin or Lubricity.Gear: 2 x 50/60m ropes or 1 x 70/80m rope, 12 draws.Access: The top of the climb is directly below The Bullshit Factor, the prominent overhanging dihedral on the Suzuki Complex. It is reached in a 40 minute walk from the Sleepy Bay carpark, via the cairned and taped Skyline Traverse. Where the track starts to level off shortly before gaining the top of the Hazards Main Wall and just before the top of the Suzuki Complex (it may be easiest to find this first, the steep cliff only a few metres left of the track) cross to the ocean side of the ridge at some large boulders. Scramble down keeping to the right and walk south along the base of the Suzuki Complex, then scramble 25m down the scrubby slope directly below the Bullshit Factor to a large boulder perched on top of the slab, where the top anchors are located. Four abseils down the line of bolts will get you to the bottom of the climb, which is a small stance with a DBB at the base of a short corner, about 20m from the ground above an overhanging wall. The first two abseils can be combined in a 60m rope stretcher from the LOWER set of anchors on the slab, but make sure you knot the ends of your rope! The ground can be reached with a 35m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P2, or a 20m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P1.1. 20m 175 bolts. Follow the slightly right trending line up the slab to a TBB on the brushy ledge.2. 30m 18/219 bolts. Up the groove above the belay, stepping left onto the slab where the groove steepens and disappears (18). Alternatively, the groove finishes with a very thin exit onto the slab above (21). Continue up the easy slab to a DBB at a small stance.3. 35m 187 bolts. Climb the featured wall between the white water streaks, continuing up the easy slab above to a DBB at a small stance.4. 30m 188 bolts. Pad up the polished water streaks to glory, passing a small bush and overlap to a DBB.

Dave Stephenson and Stu Scott, October 2018

26.

Hootin And Jivin

90m22

Well protected at the difficult sections. Just left of Stud City, below the right hand end of the obvious traverse line.1. 20mUp, then traverse left, to belay on the ledge after the hard bit.2. 20mStraight up the corner, stepping left at the huge diagonal to surmount the bulge.3. 50mStraight up to belay (quite run-out, but easy).

Garn Cooper, B. Kennedy, Feb 1988.

27.

Streak Seeker

★★80m19Þ

Pleasant bolted water streak 20m right of Winning Streaks. Can rap 55m to the ground from the bottom DBB belay.Gear: 12 drawsAccess: As for Winning Streaks from top. Drop down just to right of WS via short fixed rope to DBB. Abseil 33m to DBB and another 44m to DBB, or climb from bottom via RP Freedom Seeker.1. 44m 168 bolts. A mix of sparsely bolted easy ground and a few steeper sections with bolts where you want them.2. 33m 199 bolts. Up groove on left then a delicate step up and finger traverse right onto the slab at the second bolt.

David Stephenson and Stuart Ferguson, December 2024

28.

Torstein And Back

16m19

How can you ignore a line like this? Approx. 4m above the first belay on Hootin and Jivin (belay there). Traverse along the flake to the right. Continue up RP Freedom Seeker, or Stud City, or whatever.

G.Cooper, M.Sands, Nov 1991.

The descent for the next few climbs is serviced by either abseil or by continuing upward to meet the Skyline Traverse.

Abseil routes:
1) From the top of Stud City scramble (roped up) up a bit and then left across ledges for 35m to the middle DBB of Streak Seeker. Rap 45m to the next DBB and then 55m to the ground.
2) From the top of Stud City scramble (roped up) right for 30m to a bigger ledge where on the edge of the slab you will see a tree with a sling on it. Rap 50m from here to a huge ledge covered in trees. From this ledge walk down about 10m towards the next drop off where you will see a tree beside a small gully. Rap 30m from here to the ground.

Skyline Traverse Exit: From the top of Stud City you can climb up to a tree-filled corner above (you might want to stay roped up) and continue scrambling upwards till you intersect with the Skyline Traverse before descending it.

29.

RP Freedomseeker

★100m17

Optional bouldery start through gum leaves to gain the ramp. Otherwise start at Stud City.1. 35m 17Climb the right-leading ramp, then up into Stud City and up to belay where a big ledge leads left.2. 30m 17Traverse left into the corner. Climb corner and clean wall on left, then up slab to belay.3. 35mOn to top.

Garn Cooper, Al Adams, B. Kennedy, Mar 1991.

30.

Hard Very Mossy (HVM)

35 m10

Not so much a climb as a traverse across easy ground to reach the bolt belays on Streak Seeker and Winning Streaks. From the top belay of Well Hung Left, head direct up the pillar/flake for 4m onto the slab, then head off left along the easy but mossy slabs and ledge system.

M. Johnston, C. Movita Nov. 2022

31.

Well Hung Left

★★85m19

Exciting, extremely well protected climbing on clean rock. Can rap to ground from top of second pitch.1. 40m 17As per Stud City2. 25m 19As per Well Hung through the overlap. Up LH crack for 4m, clip bolt out left and make wild move left onto the arete (crux), clip second bolt and then back down and left for one move. Climb slab/arete past another bolt to DBB at ledge. Abseil from these anchors is 57m to ground.3. 20m 18(Optional). Continue up worthwhile slab past 2 BR, then step 2m left at overlap to finish easily up lichenous slabs and cracks to ledge - take a few camalots size 0.4-2). To descend walk R through scrub along ledge above SC to standard abseil point.

H Jackson and S Joseph March 2021

32.

Well Hung Right

50m18

Exciting stuff following a direct continuation of Stud City's big corner. Start up S.C.'s second pitch, but instead of going right across the under-cling flake, take the cracks straight up through the roof/overlap and ultimately take the RH crack (crux, crack currently full of dirt and grass making it impossible to climb without rap cleaning it first) to the top of the slabs. Passing the overlap turns out to be relatively easy, but pretty exposed.

Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999.

33.

Stud City

★★★100m20

The superb, original classic on this part of the cliff. A must do climb and one of the best multi-pitches in Tasmania. Well-protected with a full rack up to #4 BD, it takes in the enormous flake that can be seen from just before the horizontal chimney on the sea level traverse. However it is much easier to approach Stud City along the mid level traverse which runs directly under the start. The climb begins next to the largest gum tree on the scrubby terrace.1. 40m 17Up right trending corner until a large hollow flake is reached. Traverse right across the flake until a groove is reached that is followed up to a belay ledge.2. 30m 18Continue up to the crack system until you can undercling right along the massive flake. When the flake turns up, make an exciting 3m traverse right across the slab to belay on a large tussock below the water runnel.3. 30m 20Move up the unique chimney groove to a slick finger crack. When the crack closes down, move left onto the slabby face. Continue up the face and crack to belay on a scrubby terrace.

B.Kennedy, T.Beaman, R.Muehlin, Jan 1977. FFA: H (A. Herington), Rock Daddy (B. Kennedy), Noel Baby (N. Ward).

34.

Continuum

★★100m17

Originally led ground up with a large runout out through the crux; the FA team failed to subsequently repeat this route a few years on (self sand bag). As of June 2017 two bolts have been added and some brushing of the initial groove has consideriably improved the route's repeatability. Start at Stud City.1. 40m 17Climb the first pitch of Stud City.1. 30m 17Climb the second pitch of Stud City to the initial overlap (10m below the enormous flake) then follow the diagonal overlap leading right past 2 BR and spaced but good natural gear. When the overlap peters out, continue traversing right then up to belay just right of the arête on a decent size sloping ledge.2. 30m 15Step back left of the arête and follow the convoluted depressions up the arête to the top with spaced gear. Great climbing for the grade.

Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999.

A first rate but solid link up (grade 22,19,18,19) would be to climb the first pitch of Hootin and Jivin, followed by Torstein and Back, then reverse the traverse of RP Freedomseeker to finish up the last two pitches of Stud City.

35.

Trouble In Paradise

9m21Þ

Not particularly appealing, this bolted route is 20m right of Stud City, just left of a corner. The first two bolts are missing hangers, but take wires to slide over them. There is a single bolt belay and lower off.

R. Parkyn, C. Bye, Nov 1992.

36.

Leo's Retreat

160m15

Loose, scrubby and indirect, found 30m left of The Reprieve.1. 25mUp variety of cracks to belay on sloping ledge to the left.2. 42mMove left around the corner to a large scrubby terrace. Walk 30m left to the obvious corner.3. 25mMove up right to a small hollow, then trend left and up via the corner to a good ledge.4. 30mMove right for 12m then up a wide crack to clean slabs. Belay on jammed blocks.5. 12mLeft up slabs to small caves.6. 33mUp broken walls to the base of the overhang.7. 40mRight for 12m, up grooves, then across the slab to final short wall and on to top.

C. Rathbone, G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Nov 1976.

Main Wall Right

With the exception of the lower slab routes Touch and Go and Slippery Slope, all the routes on Main Wall Right start from the Mid Level Traverse upper variant, which scrambles up and above the lower slab on a sketchy ledge system to access the routes between the Reprieve and Gunboat Diplomacy.

37.

The Reprieve

90m18

Surprisingly worthwhile and adventurous. Start from the Mid Level Traverse upper variant 30m left of Full Sail, at a pile of blocks on the ledge.1. 45mMove up wall on good holds then friction traverse right for 6m then up to ledge and dead tree. Continue easily up wall to belay.2. 45mTraverse left for 6m then straight up to ledge.

B. Kennedy, D. Bowman, Dec 1976.

Touch and Go and Slippery Slope are located on the the polished slabs directly below Jack Shit and Trucks Have Wings. Start from the Mid Level Traverse lower variant.

38.

Touch and Go

★★30m2112Þ

Lovely. The bolted polished water streak 6m left of Slippery Slope. The crux comes in the first 10m. DBB at top.

David Stephenson and Stu Scott, August 2019

39.

Slippery Slope

★★30m217Þ

Delicate climbing up the bolted left leaning seam on the polished slabs below Trucks Have Wings. The difficulties ease considerably after the first 3 bolts. DBB at top. The smooth slab between Slippery Slope and Touch and Go goes at grade 22/23 and can be top roped from either set of anchors - a decision was made to not bolt it due to proximity to the other routes.

David Stephenson and Ben Maddison, August 2020

40.

Jack Shit

45m17

A dirty adventure, which with a good cleaning effort or much traffic might become a good climb. Start as for Trucks Have Wings, clipping it's first two bolts before traversing left past the first crack to climb the second one. The direct start was done on top-rope by the second.

Garn Cooper, P.Sullivan, Adam Potito, Mar 1993.

41.

Trucks Have Wings

★★45m19

A good climb following the first crack left of Havahorror. Climb the slab past two spaced bolts replaced 2023 (crux, with groundfall potential if you don't stick clip the first bolt or come off before clipping the second bolts), move right and up into the crack. Up this and the grooved slab above. A short and easy traverse right gets you to the Full Sail Rap Anchor (stay roped up).

A.Hasan, Garn Cooper, Jun 1992.

42.

Havahorror

★45m21

The first line left of Full Sail, often a bit dirty, but cleaning it is easy if you do one of the other routes first. Up the fine left facing corner.

Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 1982.

Rap anchors exist to service the next few climbs can be found at the top of Full Sail.

43.

Full Sail Direct

★★36m20

A few metres left of Full Sail below a bolt at 5m. Climb via the bolt into Full Sail and up this line to the top.

Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 1982.

44.

Full Sail

★★40m19

Easily recognised, Full Sail is a good waypoint to locate other routes nearby. Located on the right hand end of the Main Wall on a compact wall about 100m above sea level. At the right hand end of the wall and running to the right, a prominent roof splits the wall at about 15m height. Full Sail takes the line on the left hand end of this roof. Climb the line up to the corner of the roof (easy but sparsely protected for first 6m), step left when in line with the roof, then continue up the twin crack system to a large columnar feature. Follow this on its right side and over a bulge to a DBB above when the angle eases. Alternatively, instead of stepping left at the roof it is possible to continue up the crack through the roof and traverse left at the next blank wall. This makes the climb more sustained but still 19.

K. Lindorff, K. Roseberry, Jan 1977.

45.

Full Sail Ahead

★40m22

Runout climbing up a nice line on great rock. The second half is very poorly protected and higher up falling does not become an option, hence the single star. Could be top-roped from the Full Sail anchors. Start as for Full Sail. Climb the straight line of Full Sail without deviating left at any point. Difficult moves over the bulge with poor pro leads to a delicate, un-protectable corner. Tip toe your way up this with increasing trepidation until your first gear just below the anchors.

Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Isaac Lethborg, Oct 2017

46.

The Smell of an Oily Rag

★65m20

A (barely) worthwhile outing and a mega single pitch that will fulfill your narcissistic desires. The hardest moves are at the start but the top is enticingly bold. Start up Full Sail Direct until 3m above roof, then traverse R into corner/ledge system and up right to arching overlap. Along this to its R end, up and over, step right to a good cam in a horizontal. Blast up the slab aiming for the anchors on The Axiom (FA went up black streak but follow your nose).

Alex Lewis and Kate Tasker Aug 2015

47.

The Axiom

★★★30m249Þ

Start at the base of the waterwashed groove 30m right of Full Sail. Follow 9 bolts up the polished groove to a large ledge and rap anchors. The crux is overcoming the two inital bulges and is technical but not strenuous.

Sam Edwards, Garry Phillips, Roger Parkyn, Sep 1994.

48.

Victim of Gunboat Diplomacy

★★★30 m2711Þ

Shares the first two bolts with The Axiom before heading off right. Eleven fixed hangers and finishes at same anchor as Axiom. Crux passing the fourth bolt then sustained 24 to the top.

Maddie Johnston, Nov. 2022

The Suzuki Complex

The Suzuki Complex is a small crag situated directly above where routes on Main Wall Centre culminate. The crag is 10m left of the Skyline Traverse below Mt Parsons and 30 minutes walk from Sleepy Bay carpark. The cliff faces towards the sea. Consult the Main Wall Centre topo to view the climbs on this crag.

49.

Luxury Leather Goods

15m19

Ascends the steep curving crack initally on fingers then widening to hands. The route is 2m left of the arete that is left of The Bullshit Factor.

Roger Parkyn Jan 1991.

50.

The Bullshit Factor

15m20

The uncompromising dihedral whose left wall is slightly overhanging. Sustained.

Jack Keane Jan 1991

51.

Osmotic Tension

15m21

Take the crack straight above the base of the leaning gum tree, 20m right of The Bullshit Factor. Good wires protect the face above.

Roger Parkyn Jan 1991

Sea level Traverse Horizontal Chimney Area

52.

Banana Republicans

★★★35m23

Follow the sea level traverse past the horizontal chimney to a massive boulder just above the sea. Up right is a long steep L facing corner. Climb up to a belay below it . Varied technical climbing leads to a frantic bridging and laybacking section past 2 bolts, to a dbb on the slab above. Good small and medium gear.

Nick & Heather Hancock Oct 2021

The Underworld

This crag is found by heading down towards the water where the Skyline Traverse leaves the Sea-level Traverse. There is an ampitheatre of steep pink granite undercut by a large cave.

53.

Corner Part-2

12m18

As you traverse down the southern side of the crag you pass a series of short easy corners. This is the closest to the sea with a small roof at the top, starts off a terrace 12m above the ocean.

Roxanne Wells, Pete Steane, Apr 1994.

54.

The Wind Below

12m26Þ

The arête just right of Corner Part-2 (with rusty carrots).

Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge 1997.

55.

Jabberwock

★★★27m22

Steep, strenuous and well protected. Starts left of the caves entrance. Step R then steeply to horizontal, left 3m to flake, up this to thinner flake above.

Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 1994.

56.

Slithy Tove

★24m24

First half as for Jabberwock, but rather than traversing left to flake, traverse right 2m past a hole to another crack, follow this through overlap with good pro.

Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 1994. FFA R. Parkyn 1997.

57.

Via Magna

★★★20m26Þ

Out the left side of the cave past many bits of glue and metal.

John Fisher, Mar 1995.

58.

Travels by Dragonfly

20m27Þ

Right of the cave. Follow the line of bolts from the hanging belay.

Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, 22 Feb 1995.

59.

Nunc Dimitis

★★16m24Þ

The wall with 4 bolts right of Travels by Dragonfly. A boulder problem start out of a slot and exit right avoiding the final wall at the top. No anchor. Superb.

John Fisher Mar 1995

60.

Waters of Oblivion

20m22

The sculpted arête on the right edge of the Underworld provides a struggle, with a final harder move well left of the arête. The rock and the climbing aren't that good. Originally climbed with a long sling protecting the hard upper moves, the first ascentionist planned to return and place a bolt. He never did, but feel free.

John Fisher Mar 1995.

61.

Superbrinkmanslip

★★15m22

A wonderful deep-water solo, on the seaward side of the huge fish shaped boulder, at the northern entrance to the Underworld. Abseil to a stance on a ledge below the mouth and get a friend to pull up the rope. Climb small pockets to a L leading traverse. Follow this and finish straight up to the ridge.

Nick Hancock Feb 2003.

Insomnia Wall

At the last gulch on the track to Sleepy Bay, descend to the very steep north facing wall by the sea.

62.

Insomnia

★★10m255Þ

Left-hand line with a sloper start. Lower off.

Nick Hancock Apr 2004.

63.

Project

10m4Þ

64.

Weffy

★10m225Þ

From cairn climb right then up to lower off.

Doug McConnell Apr 2004.