The Star Factory
1 hour
Morning sun
Immaculate water polished orange granite, generally slightly overhanging, 30m high and 500m long, mostly sport routes.
Acknowledgement
by Jake Bresnehan and Nick Hancock.
Introduction
The Star Factory is unique in Australian climbing in that it has a large number of very high quality climbs from 21 to 32 on good granite that is highly featured with holds of all shapes and sizes, in addition to the more usual cracks. The Star Factory is now the best (hard) sport crag in Tassie and arguably one of the best in Australia. All the bolted sport climbs have double bolt belays at the top, from which it is advised to lower off as there is loose gravel above the top of the cliff. Winter days are the best, climbing in the sun with a nice southerly wind. You can climb in the summer but is best after about 2pm. The projects are all closed, but feel free to put in the blood, sweat and tears to put your own up. Be careful on the slabs at the base of the routes. If you stuff up, you probably won't wake up again. In the wet they are even worse!
History
The cliff now known as the Star Factory was first climbed on by the Jackson Brothers in 1994, when they wandered up a modest corner towards the left end of the wall. They returned in early 2002 to finish off their previous climb to create The Adjuster (21), and added another, Glass Tier (22). These were the only routes on the cliff until Nick Hancock re-discovered it in early 2003. He tried to keep it a secret and even managed to pick off a few of the best lines with Doug McConnell until the motor-mouth Jake Bresnehan got hold of the rumour and passed it on to Garry Phillips, who then marched up there and tore the place apart. Garry has put up about half the routes to date and is responsible for most of the hardest routes.
Access
Access is by following The Skyline Traverse from Sleepy Bay for 35 minutes until a distinct col is reached below the slabs leading up to Wombat Crags. From here head left and down, below a steep wall, then head south to above the cliff. There is a steep scramble at the far right hand side and abseil anchors above some of the right hand climbs. Access along the foot of the crag is straightforward except for a 30 meter section left from Ferret on a Leash, where it is necessary to rope up as the slabs below the wall shelve steeply to the sea over 70 meters below. Routes are described R to L, as you come to them.
GPS
The Star Factory
Climbs to the ledge where Chris the Porn King starts.
Al Williams 2004
Climb the Access route till the ledge. Double bolt belay. Climb the top pitch up via some cool moves on not the best quality rock. Not a bad little route. Harder if you are short.
Garry Philips 2003.
Follow the crack L of Chris The Porn King to the roof. Head R to pass the roof and follow the thin layback to the double bolt belay.
Al Williams 2004.
Start as for Naturally Blond but instead of breaking right below the roof, continue following the crack straight up, with tricky moves at the top. Well protected by small to medium cams. DRBB.
Jack Colbeck 18/05/2026
The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.
Alex Lewis Jul 2010
Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked striking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory.
Doug McConnell 2003.
Climb the pillar with medium cams, then follow the blunt arete above on bolts. Crux at the top. Lower off.
Nick Hancock 2003.
Same start as Street Fighter. Head R at the top of the chimney.
Garry Phillips 2004.
Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the L face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic.
Garry Phillips 2003.
Direct Start into Street Fighter. V10 if your 6 and a half feet tall. Harder if shorter.
Steve Townshend March, 2014
Climb the first 3 bolts of Antimatter then break R and up to join Street Fighter. A bit sharp, and just adds a little bit. Probably grade 26 to join Street Fighter.
Jake Bresnehan 2004.
Start as for Street Fighter 2 but break off upwards at the first line of bolts and climb the wall directly, finishing at the Street Fighter anchor.
Andrew Bissett 2020
A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. Then suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24.
Doug McConnell 2003.
Matter of Fact
★25/6ÞFor when you get bored of Antimatter. At the roof of Antimatter head L past 1 bolt via some moves.
Garry Phillips 2007.
Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.
Garry Phillips 2006.
This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do!
Garry Phillips 2003.
Start as for Power of the Percolator but head L. Lowers off the 2nd last bolt and needs to be extended.
Garry Phillips 2003.
Juicebox
20m222B + Natural GearThe obvious corner to the Right of Kim's Project. Up past two bolts into the corner. Up this to the lower-off for Kim's Project. Gear from tips to #1 Camalot.
S.Young Apr 2009
Kim's Project
Up the slab. Looks classic. All Kim has to do is get out of his office and climb it. Hopefully the bolts are ok!
Climb Balance of Evil and break R across to join Kim's project. A bit cheeky but a good route.
Garry Phillips 2006.
A bit tricky down low. Up the R facing corner to the top.
Norm Selby 2003
Ryan's Project
1833The awesome shallow corner to the right of the obvious choss ramp. Up this via. some very technical moves a bit uncharacteristic of the factory. Lower off the last bolt (with ring) in the corner for the 27. Exiting onto the slab is guarded by a hard boulder problem of around V8/V9 and is still a closed project. Finish up Balance of evil. A #2 camalot can be used before the first bolt but is not essential.
Writing up as is because the only other sport climb around this grade at the factory is Street Fighter so this is a welcome addition.
A. Hartshorne March 2019
10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.
Nick Hancock 2004.
The Glass Tier
★★25m22(Natural Gear)Follow a series of left trending flakes just past a ridiculously thin crack-line. Most of the rock on this climb looks dubious from the ground, but in fact it is pristine quality except for the first move. The upper section is reasonably sustained.
Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Jan 2002.
The Glass Tier Direct Start
Garry Phillips
Bless My Chungus Life
★★25m31(Natural Gear)Thin crack line in between "The Glass Tier" and "Wizard of Oz" formerly known as "Cockhead Crack". Thin start leading to the hard crux about 5m off the deck, break out right to easier climbing on big holds to reach the halfway ledge. Step left back into the crack line and do a couple more hardish and run-out moves to get established above the rooflet. Finish as for "Wizard of Oz" but ignore the bolts (use the same lower off though).
Sonnie Trotter pinkpointed it on Feb 2015 with fixed gear and pre-clipped the first 4 pieces, but the FA remained unclaimed until 2026.
Oliver Schmidt, Jan 2026
Wizard Of Oz Direct Start, Open Project, proper hard....
Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out L. Traverse R on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route.
Jake Bresnehan 2006.
Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.
Nick Hancock 2003.
Open project
Short arete to the left of FErret on a leash
The Face of Business
Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one.
Kim Robinson 2004.
Climb the Tooth Fairy until the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out L past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Powerful crux section.
Garry Phillips 2006.
Amazing sustained, pumpy climbing. Line of bolts that arches left at the start and then goes straight up in between "Entree" and "Fairy Floss". The redpoint crux is at the very top. Mantle out to the top of the cliff.
Oliver Schmidt, 18 Jan 2026
Head up easy ground to half height. Head R and up past a rad punch to the biggest under cling in Tassie. Squirm up the groove to reach the belay. Super classic.
Garry Phillips 2004.
Same start as Entrée but go direct. When the route steepens, the hard climbing begins! (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out L to reach the chains. Come Get Me!
Garry Phillips 2005.
The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish.
Nick Hancock 2003.
This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far everyone has gone L on the bigger holds.
Doug McConnell.
Fusion
14m194ÞThe sharp arête right of Maxwell's Demon. Start bridging on slab and wall, then up slighty right of arête. Crimpy.
Will Bartlett & Sam Peyr, May 2010
Up, traverse R via mono(!), up. Stand on top to finish. Preclip the 2nd bolt if you like your ankles as they are.
Doug McConnell, Aug 2010
Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help.
Al Williams, Jun 2005.
The line 4m L of Astro Boy. V6 start, then awesome climbing.
G. Phillips, Sep 2008.
The name says it all! Just enjoy - if you can get in the groove of the style. A little cruxy at one point, but once the flared hand jam is reached the fun heats up.
Garry Phillips.
Nemesis
★★★27/28ÞExcellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris. Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2 camalot.
Garry Phillips April 2017
Open project
U's heading up and right from Simply the Best overlap.
Open project
Links simply the best into Augmentium
Hubris
★★★30m29(Natural Gear)Start up the offwidth roof L of Simply the Best. Up the line to the higher of the two traversing cracks via some committing moves. Traverse R climbing past Simply The Best. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the, dare I say it, DIABOLICAL crux sequence. Continue up the line. The climb finishes when you are standing on top of the cliff. You need a 5 friend and 4 camalot for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.
Crazy John Fischer, April 03 2014
Augmentium
★★★30m29(Natural Gear)Superb and safe climbing up the obvious crack line left of Simply The Best. Start as for the brilliant looking route Hubris, but instead of traversing right, continue straight up, with funky moves through the technical crux. Blast up the sustained crack above, then left of the bush and up the easy, pleasant corner to the top.
Ascent was done after multiple top-rope/self belay sessions. All gear was placed on the lead and that is what it is graded for. The gear ranges from black & blue Aliens to 4.5 Camelot and various wires. An ascent done in better style (ie ground up/on-sight etc) is totally possible as the gear is bomber.
Andrew (Squib) Cubbon 4th June 2014
Redline Project
Open Project
The well-defined R facing corner system toward the lower end of the tier. Perfect rock. Perfect position. 1. 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under the roof. 2.18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy traverse R until the roof fades into a faint depression. Tricky moves to the top.
1st pitch Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Aug 1994. 2nd Hamish Jackson, Toby Bown and Marcel Jackson, Jan 2002.
Named after the one and only. Looks easy but! Climb up the radtastic left leaning flared crack, on some smears and a few more smears. Very good.
Garry Phillips Jul 2003.
The Final Solution
256ÞFaceted blocky arête finishing at Turbo Hammer Belay.
Al Williams Aug 2003.
Seal Launch
★★20m227ÞClimb the right trending dogleg groove just right of a distinct arête formation. Finishes at the Turbo Hammer DBB.
Al Williams Jul 2003.
Minor Technicality
★234ÞThe arête and RH Face left of seal launch, delicate technical climbing mostly on the face past 3 FH lead to jugs past another FH to a DBB.
Alan Williams, May 2005.
Cheese Supreme
★12m245ÞStart just L of Technicality. Reachy moves in the thin seam to get off the ground lead to some big moves off big holds on immaculate rock. 5 bolts + lower-off. (This route goes straight up thin seam around the corner from Technicality, lower-off is off a small ledge at about the same height as Technicality).
The following routes are on the flat slightly slabby face characterised by large (often loose) crystals, the rock quallity is not perfect but the unique large crystals make for interesting climbing.
The Great Gonzo
21m2210ÞNext route R of Holy Ghost. Up steep wall on good holds with tricky moves gaining slab. Up on big crystals to the top. 10 bolts + lower-off.
Doug McConnell
The Holy Ghost
★25m24ÞThe RH line of bolts with a reachy crux high up.
Garry Phillips Jul 2003
The Son
★25m218ÞThe central line of bolts with a tricky slab finish.
Doug McConnell Jul 2003.
The Father
★25m228ÞFollow the LH line of bolts on the highly featured wall at the far LH end of the cliff.
Nick Hancock Jul 2003
The Mens Gallery
The Men's Gallery is a little separate from the main Star Factory crag. To get to the Men's Gallery walk down the ramp at the far Lside of the Star Factory to a rap station. From here climb the short wall above via 4 bolts (grade 12) to the belay on the ledge (directly below Doug's Power Climb). To descend rap off the rings, but try to avoid letting the ropes fall down the crack below!
Red Hill Town
★★★269ÞThe furthest line R on this bit of the wall. Power up steep wall (crux) to good rest. Continue easily, with tricky move at half height. 9 U-bolts + lower-offs. Best done with the first two bolts pre-clipped.
Simon Young Jun 2006.
Project - Garry
Middle line of bolts between Red Hill Town and Wild Winds. Closed.
Wild Winds
★★★15m27ÞStarts 2m R of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route.
Garry Phillips 2005.
Doug's Power Climb
★★★15m266ÞStarts 4m left of Wild Winds. Up on good holds to hard boulder problem, then easily to the top. Excellent climbing.
Doug McConnell 2006
About 6m left of the normal belay is a DBB (FHs) on the sloping ledge
Alex's Project - Closed
The line directly above the belay
Will's Project - closed
The line heading left from the belay
The Gonk
This is a remote cliff in a great spot with beautiful lines. Can be accessed by the Sea Level Traverse, but most now approach from the Star Factory (hence located here in the guide).
Access: Walk along the base of the Star Factory past the last routes to below the Mens Gallery. From the belay bolts used to get up to the Mens Gallery (two fixed hangers), rap 20 m down to the slabs, then scramble south to the base of a short easy corner. This can be either soloed or led with a few long slings for runners. Continue around the corner to The Gonk. For the return it's best to leave a fixed line at the rap, with the alternative to climb up a the low-angle corner (single set of cams).
Deep water solo. Climb the flake on the west face of the huge boulder, at the southern end of the slabs below the Gonk.
Nick Hancock Jan 2003.
Provides an easy, but poorly protected, climb to the top of The Gonk. Scramble up L of the long blank wall L of Dumpster, to belay below a short chimney. 1. Climb the chimney behind the block and continue up the slab above to the scrub. Go slightly R through this to an easy crack leading to a tree belay on the saddle. 2. Follow the crack above, then slabs up R to a DBB. Abseil off via On the Highway to Hell, double ropes required.
Nick Hancock, Jake Bresnehan, Jan 2003.
On the L side of the long wall L of Dumpster, climb via a desperate boulder problem start via 5 B to DBB.
Ken Palmer Mar 2013
Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, Greg Child, Feb 1978.
Pitch 1. L.Bottomley, Garn Cooper Tim Chappell, Sep 91. Pitch 2. Marcel Hamish Jackson Jul 1994.
Nick Hancock, Kieran Lawton, Mar 2002.
The awesome flake route right of Where in the Stain is Sneden. Has lower-offs.
Doug McConnell, Jun 2003.
Project N. Hancock
After the first few bolts on the Meaning of Life, heads right up the crack to a small footldge and belay. Second pitch crosses the Holy Grail and goes up a groove to the ledge below the Hourglass. Pitch 3 climbs the hanging arete.
Spectacular, steep and sustained. One of the finest routes of this style in Tasmania. Start 25m right of The Meaning of Life and climb the left trending dyke, over the lip to the anchor of Highway to Hell. This single bolt anchor is located well back from the edge and is not suitable to lower-off. Bolts are spaced,but falls are ok.
Nick Hancock, Jun 2003.
Start as for Holly Grail and climb the thin crack (natural gear) to ledge and BB below The Hourglass corner.
Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Jun 2003.
At the very top of The Gonk is a spell binding corner. From the top of The Gonk rappel from a double bolt belay onto a ledge which is the top of The Life of Meaning. The crux is well protected by cams and the second half of the route is sparsely protected with small wires and potentially ball nuts if you have them.
Simon Bischoff October 2018
Gonk and Surrounds
H and M Jackson 1993