Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side
1-15 min
All day sun
Short vertical dolerite buttresses. Mostly trad routes, but some bolts.
Acknowledgement
by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets
Introduction
Climbing in Launceston used to happen mainly in the Gorge area which is 10 minutes walk from the centre of town however it now also includes the whole of the South Esk. As with most of Tassie, a lot of the climbing is on dolerite crags, in cracks and corners, occasionally branching out on to the faces and aretes. This section of the guide has only been possible thanks to the input of the local climbing community. That being said it is everyone’s responsibility to ensure editors are supplied accurate and up to date information. If you spot inaccuracies, let us know and we’ll fix them, if you’re not prepared to do this don’t complain about the product! As such this is a ragtag collection of gossip and innuendo and should be treated as such. A lot of these routes haven’t been done by yours truly so I can’t vouch for their grades, quality or even give them a character reference. A lot of the routes are not even known by names except as “that 19 left of...”. In these cases I made up names for them because I got sick of writing “left of the 19...”. Such climbs are marked with a #. Climbers have worked closely with the Launceston City Council who are concerned about safety for climbers and walkers. To ensure continued access to the cliffs climbers have negotiated a Code of Conduct with the council. See http://www.launceston.tas.gov.au/upload/3819/conduct.pdf for a copy. A basic summary of this appears below and it will improve our chances of continuing to climb in the Gorge if you can follow them…. Don’t act like a dickhead! Be nice to the trees, animals, tourists and plants. If you have to scrub a new route for hours before it’s climbable then don’t bother as it will probably be covered in lichen again after the winter. Routes directly above the “Tourist Track” must be adequately protected to ensure the safety of the non-climbing public. Let people know what you are doing (nobody wants a climber plummeting onto them out of the blue!). Fixed anchors should be current best practice with the use of corrosive metals and “carrots” considered sub-standard. All routes (including gear routes) above Tourist Tracks must have double lower off bolts (this protects vegetation and eliminates the risk of dislodging stones while scrambling down off climbs). For current information contact Ian Ferrier at Mountain Designs in York St, Launceston. There is no intention to deter bold climbing or tell people when and where to bolt, but all climbers should understand that this is an access issue and that there is much rock away from tourist areas. The Gorge is the most popular climbing area in Launceston, it is broken into two areas. The Shady Side and the Sunny Side. Simple hey! Obviously climb on the Shady Side on hot sunny days and on the Sunny Side any other time. Be Safe. Be Good and ... use ‘adequate protection’.
Access
All the climbs on the (south) Sunny Side of the Gorge can be accessed from the Zig-Zag track, which starts at the soute side of Kings Bridge. Park in the Penny Royal car-park, just before the bridge. See the sketch map for an idea of how to get to the buttresses.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
Seif Buttress
Access- see map. The first major (8m) pinnacle that you come to on the uphill side of the zig-zag track. Beware the large flake on the right has been known to move. DBB on top.
Up the face on the front of the pinnacle to the horizontal break and then left to the crack.
Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980.
Start in yellow open book corner, up to horizontal break and then up arête.
Parsons (solo), 1982.
From back right-hand edge of pinnacle traverse left to hand crack and up. Various combinations of these have been done including a traverse around the whole pinnacle at the level of the horizontal break (about 22).
McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Trackside Buttress
Access- see map. The largest piece of climbable rock right beside the track. The first ascentionists are long forgotten but it still makes an excellent place to start climbing with a lot of the routes off the vertical. Bolt belays on top.
The hand-sized crack on the left-hand end. A great start to your jamming career.
Corner to 2m right of the Tree Route.
The left trending line of underclings.
What else
The crack 3m right of Centre Corner.
The next arete right of Fern Crack.
Boulder problem start in the shallow corner near the end of the buttress.
Lots of boulder problems and traverses also exist in this area.
Uphill Buttress
Access- scramble up from the downstream end of Track Side Buttress. The climbs start around the corner on the downstream side and are 6-8m high.
The off-width.
McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Bulging hand crack to off-width.
Parsons, Grant, Moore, 1978.
Up face with single bolt.
Ng, 1990.
The off-width to chimney on the front of the buttress.
McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Face climbing to a thin crack 3m right of Serafino. DBB.
Parsons, Carrigan, 1982.
Boulder problem start to gain access to the finger crack. DBB.
Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980.
The crack on the right hand side of the buttress.
On the face uphill and to the right of Speransky with 2 FH.
Dennis Kearnes, Kate Tasker 4 Nov 2009.
Offal Buttress
Access- see map. Basically down hill from Trackside. Beware of the fervid abseilers. DBB on top.
On the left hand end off the cliff 6m from Pelvic Thrust is a flaring corner. Up this to thin seam which widens to a hand crack.
McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Thin crack to FH and small roof and then out left to final crack.
Fantini, McMahon, 1981.
Start 4m right of Pelvic Thrust and climb the face/crack to a ledge. Step left to the hand/finger crack.
Fantini, Smith, 1981.
The blood spilling off-width.
McHugh, McMahon, 1972.
Start in the corner 5m right of Offal. Climb the corner to stand on the pillar and clip the first bolt. Climb the face before traversing left to the arete. 4 bolts and DBB.
Fox and others 200?
Start up Offal and then at the ledge go out the right diagonal crack.
Parsons, 1982.
Start from the ledge on Blue No More across Pelvic Thrust and Free Passage then finishing up Offal Diagonal. Initially climbed with a piton knocked in with a blockbuster.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1985.
The chimney around the corner formed by the back of the Pelvic Thrust block.
McMahon (solo), 1972.
The next chimney.
McMahon, Madden, Smith, 1981.
Thin face climbing with very little gear. Next to the descent track 5m uphill from Morte D'Arthur.
Narkowicz, Focken, 1985.
Below Offal Buttress there is a series of small faces with potential for some new (but "diminutive") routes.
Shimmy Sheister Buttress
Access- see map. Just upstream and downhill from Trackside. Easy to get to by abseiling from the eye-bolts.
The thin crack on the left.
McMahon, solo, 1976.
Flaring groove and crack.
Parsons, Best, 1976.
And we still are. 3 eye-bolts.
Fisher, Selby, 1996.
Finger crack on the right.
Thomas, 1980.
Nighthawks Buttress
Access- scramble downhill and upstream from Shimmy Sheister buttress or go uphill and downstream from the top of the Mick Loves Anne face. All roads lead to Rome.
Another excellent job of undergrading by John who initially gave it 24. Line of 4 eye-bolts. DBB.
Fisher, 1996.
Jamming up hand and fist crack on the front of the buttress. For the aficionados of the jam.
Thomas, McMahon, 1980
Trench Foot Face
Access- Just downhill and slightly upstream from Nighthawks is a separate face
Lay away up thin crack to gain hand crack.
Parsons, Schmidt, 1976.
The face with 5 U-bolts just right of Trench Foot. A hard start but maintains the interest for the whole distance. DBB
Fox, Webb, Kearnes, 2019
On the seperate pillar just right of The Inspector is a face with 3 U-bolts. DBB
Fox, Lethborg 2019
The crack facing the river on the pillar of The Constable.
Smith (solo), 1981.
5m around the corner from A Man's Drink is a line of thin flakes leading up to a hand crack.
Smith, 1981.
Mickey Loves Anne Face
Access- From half-way down the descent track on the upstream side of Offal buttress walk upstream for 50m to a small clump of she-oaks. Abseil from the DBB behind these to the base of the cliff, approximately 12m, which is recognisable by the painted pierced heart. Alternatively scramble upstream 50m from the base of Offal. Multiple bolt belays on top.
The left hand-crack 3m from Choking the Chicken.
Parsons, Shields, 1975.
Or 24 for the vertically challenged. The arete with 3 eye-bolts. DBB
Fisher, Fox, 1995.
Corner and thin crack 2m right of Choking The Chicken.
Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975. Fantini, Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Up crack, bulges and blocks.
Smith, McMahon, 1981.
Up face to eye-bolt and rusty old piton then to crack above.
Fife, Narkowicz, 1982.
The crack 3m left of Dead Zone up to a hollow block then 2 eye-bolts on the face above.
Narkowicz, 1982.
Thin crack starting from sloping ledge. The big jug finish and associated large block at the top of dead zone no longer exist. Be aware the finishing moves pulling over the top may now be significantly harder.
Fantini, Smith,1981.
Saturday Night Buttress
Access- see map. Abseil in, bolt belays on top.
The main hand crack on the left.
McMahon, Thomas, 1980.
2m right of Change My Tune.
Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975.
The face 2m right of Stopping On The Red. No gear worth stopping for.
Thomas (solo), 1981.
The broken crack line 4m upstream of Stopping On The Red.
McMahon, Thomas,1980.
The face right of Cue Ball Head is another top rope route at about 17.
The next corner.
McMahon, Thomas, 1980.
The last climb before the off-width corner. Up corner to block at the top. Harder than it looks.
Thomas, Keenan, McMahon, 1981.
Foam Pinnacle
Access- Walk 30m up the ramp from Deadzone on the Mickey Loves Anne face. It's most use is for finding the access to Riverside Buttress
The crack.
McMahon (solo), 1980.
Riverside Buttress
Access- Abseil in from the trees 10m below the Foam Pinnacle or scramble down the upstream side of Foam Pinnacle, best done at low tide.
Thin crack up to steel spike. One of the best finger cracks in the gorge.
Smart, McMahon, 1982.
The off-width on the arete.
McMahon, Smart, 1982.
Climbs the underclings to thin crack to spikes. Finishes up the double arete to the top with no protection for the last 4m
P. Munnings, H.Mulligan, J. Buttler
Corner 5m upstream from Bad Mouth.
McMahon, Smart, 1982.
Pygmy Possum Buttress
Access- From Foam Pinnacle walk upstream and uphill for 40m or alternatively drop down from the upstream end of Saturday Night Buttress. The climbs on Pygmy Possum Buttress are almost 30m long and are some of the longest climbs in the Gorge.
Left hand off-width to hand crack then on to the face of the top pillar.
McMahon, Mohler, 1981.
A difficult start up thin crack and corner before easing to hand jams. Continue up crack above.
McHugh, McMahon, 1972.
Starts up Thylacine and then traverses on to Pygmy Possum after the off-width.
Schmidt.
Scramble up the gully on the right of the Pygmy Possum Buttress to where it is possible to climb the arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts and some natural gear (oh no) to a DBB.
Fox, Bissett, French, 1997.
On The Way Pinnacles
Access- Directly below the zig-zag track lookout and above Pygmy Possum Buttress on the uphill side of the track to Saturday Night Buttress.
Thin crack with a slight overhang at the start. Begin with finger pocket and through the crack to finish.
Leslie, 1995
Nice hand to fist crack with large block obstructing the top. Traverse right below block to top out.
Munnings (solo), 2020.
Pleasant climbing up the crack behind the tree.
McMahon (solo), 1980.
The main face of the buttress with 2 fixed hangers. Follows small rails and pockets at the bottom to large laybacks and slopers at the top. Bring 2 extended draws for DBB.
Munnings (Solo), 2020.
Aqua-Slick Buttress
Right of Pygmy Possum Buttress and on the same level. Abseil in from DBB above.
Start in cleft on the far left up to overlap and crack above.
McMahon, Mohler, 1981.
Climb the arête 1m left of Aqua-Slick with 3 U-bolts. Good climbing though the crux is avoiding stepping into Aqua-Slick. DBB.
Ng, McOwan, 1990.
The hand crack just 1m right of Suflower.
McMahon, Smith, 1980.
The right-hand face and crack with a hard start.
McMahon, Smith, 1980.
Line of 3 bolts right of Down to the Canvas.
Bissett, 1998.
Feltham Buttress
Access- see map. One of the most popular buttresses in the Gorge because of it's easy access and great variety of climbs.
The first crack on the downstream end of the buttress.
Parsons, 1976.
Face climbing up the left-hand line of 2 U-bolts.
Ng, 1989.
Climb to the 2nd bolt of The Night Dweller and traverse right at that level crossing Third Rising at the 2nd bolt and then across to Feltham. Easier for the tall and easier going right to left.
Fox, DeCesare, 2002.
The face left of Westham with 3 U-bolts. Starts 2m left of Westham. A variant start on the block another 2m left goes at 17.
Parsons (solo), 1982.
The classic corner/crack system.
McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972 (Must have been crowded - Ed).
The orange face with 2 bolts and then exiting up the finger crack on the right.
Ng, 1990.
Climb the arête right of Third Rising using the same bolts and finish as for that climb, but somehow avoiding Lingham all the way.
Ng, 1989.
Classic hand jamming.
McHugh, Schmidt, 1972.
Wide arête 2m right of Lingham, this time avoiding going into either Lingham or Feltham!
McMahon, 1988.
Up right trending ramp to block then back left to hand crack.
McMahon, Schmidt, 1972.
Just 4m around the corner from F.
McMahon, Mason, 1973.
Starts 2m right of Smart Pig up broken corner and off-width.
McMahon, Mason, 1973.
3m right of Pork Hunt go up crack through small roof.
McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972.
The next few routes are on the upstream face of the buttress
The thin crack past the rusty old piton.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1981.
Take the left hand crack.
I.Thomas, McMahon, 1981.
Climb face to single U-bolt, then up to flake and on to top. First bolt can be easily clipped from right before starting to avoid awkward fall.
Kearnes, Fox, Decesare, 1998.
5m right of Jelly boy. Climb up to overlap and up crack on the right.
McMahon and Brooks High, 1972.
The third of 3 cracks around the corner from Cunningham. Needs a clean.
McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981.
The last corner.
McMahon, Holmes, 1999.
Across the gully from Hamurabi is a small buttress with one climb.
Thin corner with crack widening at the top.
McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981.
Porker Pinnacle
Access- The pinnacle at the base of Feltham. Abseil in from Feltham or scramble down on the downstream side.
A must for all! Arête with 3 eye-bolts to a DBB.
Ng, 1989.
Up behind block and then up left.
McMahon, Smith, 1973.
Behind block and up right.
McMahon, Mason, 1973.
Erza Buttress
Access- Abseil from Porker Pinnacle to the water line.
Starts at the bulge and then up to finger crack.
McMahon, Mohler, 1982.
From hanging belay climb face and crack via steel bracket.
Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
Avoid the steel bracket by going right.
McMahon, 1982.
Right Man Buttress
Access- See Map. Bolt belays.
The first hand crack of the downstream end of the buttress. An excellent jamming excursion.
Smith, Ling, McMahon, 1980.
The face 1m right of the Wrong Man, up to an eye-bolt and then the thin crack.
Ng, 90's.
Thin face with 2 eye-bolts then exit up crack on left. Can be done starting up the chimney on the right and then moving left but take off two grades.
Fisher, 1996.
First finger crack on the next face.
Fantini, Smith, Cameron, 1981.
The next crack starting as a finger crack then opening up to a hand crack.
Fantini, Smith, 1981.
Starts up corner with thin crack to ledge and then easier crack.
I.Thomas, McMahon, 1980.
The right line, the last of the 4 cracks.
I.Thomas, McMahon, Warren, 1980.
Arête with 3FH and small wires.
Ng, 1988.
Corner/thin crack 2m right of Ng Man.
Parsons, 1982.
Corner/finger crack 2m right of In-between Man.
Smith, Fantini, 1982.
Blunt arête with 4FH. Go directly up
Ng, 1990.
Up awkward corner to the large hand crack.
Smith, Fantini, 1981.
Rhubarb Buttress
Access- Go down from the upstream end of Right Man Buttress and abseil in, or scramble across from Porker Pinnacle.
The finger crack on the left hand end of the buttress which opens to a small corner and hand jamming.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Corner and crack 3m right of Getting Dark...
Narkowicz, McMahon, Nougher, 1982.
The hand crack near the arête.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Same start as Straight Arm then move right at 1/3 height to the next crack.
McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Go up the overhanging flake to right diagonal crack and along it to the twin cracks.
Smith, McMahon, 1981.
The main corner and crack.
Parsons, Woodruff, 1977.
Up thin crack 3m right of Rhubarb.
Narkowicz, Maddock, 1982.
Left slanting off-width.
McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Lady Midgnight - Upper Tier
Access- Upstream and downhill from Right Man. The first 3 "climbs" are barely 5m long however the rest can aspire to be grown up climbs.
A very short finger to hand crack - almost "diminutive".
McMahon, Smith, 1980.
Off-width with a dog-leg at 1/3 height.
McMahon, 1980.
Finger crack 4m upstream of Skylight.
Smith, McMahon, 1980.
Short corner but long compared to the previous 3.
McMahon, others, 1980.
Step right from ledge onto arete and fixed hanger then head up. Originally done direct but a crucial hold has broken off and still waits for an ascent this way.
Ng, McOwen 1990.
10m right of Fingal Fling. Up short corner and flake to move left to hand crack.
Parsons, Woodruff, 1977.
Lady Midnight - Lower Tier
Access - abseil from the tree below Lady Midnight.
Thin face and crack climbing on face 3m left of Joan Of Arc.
Parsons, 1982.
The crack you just abseiled past. Climb thin crack to gain left hand edge of cave then move back left to hand crack.
Thomas, Smith, McMahon, 1980.
Climb the face right of Joan of Arc past a FH up to the cave and then up finger crack.
McOwan, Wells, 1989.
Traverse to the second corner upstream of Arc of Joan, preferably when the tide is out, then climb the hand crack.
Smith, McMahon, 1980.
Abseil from 10m upstream of Lady Midnight to the water for a hanging belay. Climb the crack.
Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
About 10m upstream of Italian Club. Climb up and left to the overhang and then up crack.
McMahon, Mohler, 1982.
Best approached from the upstream side or even The Gully. Start at the water level go up the slab to the small roof and jam crack.
McMahon, Thomas, 1980.
Turrets Buttress
About 30m further upstream from Rightman. Directly below the huge cairn/fireplace. Are some short pinnacles with a collection of aretes, faces and chimneys.
the pinnacle furthest downstream. Climb the small crack and arete via one bolt, DBB
P. Munnings
The left of the two major chimneys.
P. Munnings (solo)
Bonanza Buttress
Walk above Rightman until the large Cairn is reached, continue upstream along track to Fatman for 20m and the Cliff will be visible on the upstream side of the track.
This climb is on a new cliff just past Right Man buttress on the way to Fat Man buttress. Left leaning line/crack with 5 bolts to rap point. Stick clip the first bolt.
N Selby 9 Aug 2003.
10m upstream from Bonanza is a thin crack widening to offwidth. A perfect beginner trad climb
P. Munnings (solo)
Fatman Buttress - Upper Tier
There is a DBB at the top of Fatman Pinnacle. Abseil from here takes you to the base of Thin Fiend, then continue to abseil past this to the base of Crucifix's DBB
Access- see map
Climb the off-width behind the pillar of Thin Fiend on the downstream side.
McMahon, Smith 1972.
Line of 4 U-bolts up the isolated downstream pinnacle.
Ng, 1991.
The chimney behind the isolated Fatman Pinnacle 5m upstream from the Thin Friend pillar.
McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Abseil down to the face of the Fatman Pinnacle where there is a DBB. Climb up past 3FH and friend placements in the horizontal breaks. DBB on top of the pinnacle
Ng, 1991.
On the opposite side of Skinny Girl climb the easy face.
McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Hard start then easily up on the left of the line of carrots.
Smart and McMahon.
The bolts are the result of an Ng project which was to go on the right but is too contrived to bother with.
Up through bulge and hand crack to the split between the pillar and the buttress proper.
Smith, McMahon.
The off-width through the small roof 10m uphill and right of Skinny Girl.
Narkowicz, McMahon.
The corner 3m up hill from Acoustics & Meat.
Mohler, Madden, 1981.
Curving line R of GOWTN corner. Stick clip first bolt (or place some small cams in the horizontal break), into cruxy moves laying/compressing off L arete to get established on face. Continue slightly R up slab to finish. Avoid cranking outwards on vertical pillar at base of route as it does seem to wobble. DBB
N. Morgan, S. Postle, 2022.
RH variant start for Little Boy. Up double aretes, linking in with previous climb at its 3rd bolt (avoid bridging off RH blocks for the full value). Straight up slab to finish. Take some large cams for the start. DBB
S. Postle, N. Morgan, 2022.
Off-width climbing saved by chock-stones.
Smith, McMahon, 1981.
The thin corner 3m right of Pot Belly.
McMahon, Madden, 1981.
The arête/pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB.
Fox, Munro, Kearnes, 1996.
The chimney at the back of When the Fat Lady Sings.
Madden, Mohler, 1981.
Second last corner of the buttress 10m uphill from When the Fat Lady Sings.
McMahon, Smith, 1981.
The last corner.
McMahon, Smith, 1981.
The 2 carrots 3m left of You're Fat! Starting at the same level step left on to arete. Originally conceived with a direct independent start but still waiting.
Ng, 1991.
Climb the face with 2 bolts on the end of the buttress.
DeCesare, Fox, 1996.
Fatman Buttress - Lower Tier
Access by abseiling from the tree below Skinny Girl.
Starts somewhere down river of Fatman Buttress and goes for about 100m. "The landing is soft and rarely more than 1m away" to quote someone.
Narkowicz (solo), 1982.
The thin cracks past an eye-bolt to the steel spike then traverse left to the arête and another eye-bolt.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Corner and face 3m right of Fear and Frothing.
McMahon, Smart, 1982.
Flaring crack 4m upstream of Cantilever Corner.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Uphill and upstream of the last climb is a separate pillar split by a crack.
McMahon, Fantini, 1980.
Wonders of the Flesh Buttress
This buttress is upstream and on the same level as the top of the Fatman Buttress, directly above The Gully.
Hand crack on the left.
McMahon, Smith, 1981.
Left hand line on the right hand side of the buttress.
Parsons et al, 1976.
Corner right of Sapient Sutler to join it at the off-width.
Smith, McMahon, 1981.
A couple of metres left of Noodle Armed Choir Boy. Climb the face, 4 fixed hangers, take a wire for the top moves if you want extra pro. DBB at the top.
Dennis Kearnes, Michael Fox, 3 Nov 2007.
On face that faces upstream overlooking The Gully. Walk downhill and then upstream from You're Fat and abseil to large ledge from DBB on LPFY! Climb face corner past two U-bolts, then natural gear.
Bissett, 1998.
The line 4m right of NACB. Climb past two U-bolts (double ropes may be better, but clips are good) into corner, place a cam and go up.
Bissett, 1998
The Gully
Access- requires a 30m abseil from the double bolt belay, next to small tree below the Wonders of the Flesh Buttress.
Start on the downstream side of the gully. 1) Climb up the thin line to the black face, then continue to a grassy ledge. 2) Climb up the obvious left crack.
Fantini, McMahon, 1981.
The main crack. Can be split at the grassy ledge.
McMahon, Duhig, 1980.
What other description do you need?
Talbot, K.Smith, 1975.
One of the best trad routes on the Sunny Side! The prominent crack splitting the arete on the upstream face of the gully. Trends left into gully and traverses right using jugs through rooflet, finishing up crack to belay ledge. DBB
Hannah Mulligan & Patrick Munnings 2022
If you like your curries spicy and your trad routes the same, this one is for you. Climbs the twin seams left of Bautzen, without using the blocks or crack of Bautzen. The crux is the sparsely protected moves to the first ledge. Continue up seams with better gear and easier moves to finish up V groove. DBB as for Bautzen
Patrick Munnings & Hannah Mulligan 2022
On the upstream side of the gully. Up blank corner past bolt, through small roof and up crack.
McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Mars Wall
Access- upstream from the gully. Abseil in from 2 bolts above Almost Mars.
The arête left of Mars Wall proper. 3 bolts to a DBB.
Bissett, Fox, 1997
Thin crack and face climbing 1m left of Mars.
Smart, McMahon, 1982.
The crack.
Thomas, Smith, McMahon 1981.
In the gully right of Mars Wall is a line of 6 U-bolts. This is it. DBB.
Bissett, 1998.
Gabriel Gully
Access- above and to the right of Mars Wall is a gully, on the left is a very small buttress with the following routes. It can also be accessed from Gabriel.
The blank corner to the crack and then exit left. Originally used a piton runner.
McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Up crack to groove.
Ling, McMahon, 1982.
Hand crack.
McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Gabriel Buttress
Access- either by hopping across the rocks when (the tide is out) opposite the table and chairs on the Shady Side, or follow the map. The first 3 routes are on the left uphill section of the cliff. Bolt belays on top of main cliff.
The thin corner to horizontal break/roof. You can escape here by stepping across left to ledge or go left and continue up chimney for pitch 2.
McMahon, Ling, 1982.
A better version of the above climb. Instead of escaping at break/roof, keep going up past a U-bolt, then some gear and ledges to more bolts.
Fox, Bissett, 1997.
The corner/crack right of Bolingbroke.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
From top of Wad go up slabs to corner and right to groove.
McHugh, McMahon, 1972.
The next routes are on the bottom tier of the Gabriel Buttress facing directly onto the river.
Arête and shallow corner on the downstream end. 2 eye-bolts and small cams. DBB.
Fox, Munro, Povey, 1995.
These next climbs finish at a DBB at the ledge.
Twin crack/corner on the bottom left of the Gabriel Buttress.
McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973.
Arête with 2 fixed hangers.
Ng, 1989.
Face and crack system right of Third Uncle.
Deka, Ling, McMahon, Smith, 1980.
The next two climbs go from the ledge above Don't Look at the ....
Climb up 3m and traverse upstream 10m from the DBB above Third Uncle. Climb the off-width crack with a FH on the right and a loose chockstone which faces downstream.
McMahon, Talbot, 1975.
10m upstream from the DBB and 3m right of Cashel is a small roof. Climb up this to a thin crack/corner system leading to an overlap and finger crack beyond.
Parsons, Deka, 1981.
The following routes are back on the river level.
Climb up past the obvious spike.
McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973.
The crack 3m right of the Spike Route.
McMahon, Burnett, 1973.
Crack behind tree to ledge then up the next tier on the right to the chimney/off-width crack.
Hamilton, Smith, 1981.
Flake 3m above the ground.
Smith, Cameron, Deka, Hamilton, 1981.
Up main crack in the centre of the buttress to the top. It is possible to traverse left at the start of the off-width into another crack at about 18.
Smith, McMahon, Cover, 1980.
The next climbs start on the second tier on the right hand side of the buttress
Up left trending flake to arete, sparse protection but excellent climbing.
Narkowicz, Kearnes, Ng, 1985
Climb the large pillar 4m right of Son of Man, one carrot only and a cosmetic wire.
Ng, 1990.
Climb Cowardice to the crack below the roof. Step left onto the face and crank the spaced face holds up and left past one fixed hanger to the #1 cam crack.
De Cesare, Jones Oct 2003.
Yellow corner on the right of the buttress. Classic climbing.
Smith, Cover, 1980.
Gabriel Amphitheatre
Access- up right of the main face of Gabriel Buttress
Elegant climbing up clean corner and thin finger crack. DBB
McMahon, 1973.
The arête right of Cacodaemon. Climb Mendelt's Route to the first bolt and then move left to the arête past 4 more bolts to DBB. Difficult to avoid stepping onto MR at times but worthwhile if you can.
Narkowicz 2001.
Off-width corner right of Spiritual Fire.
Mendelt Tillema, 1974.
Thin crack 1m right of Mendelt's Route. Originally done with a piton.
McMahon, Smith, 1982.
The next corner right.
McMahon, 1980.
Up the twin cracks.
McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Up crack to flake clearing vegetation and dirt as you go.
McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982.
School Girl Pinnacles
About half way down to Gabriel Buttress from the top (or halfway to the zig-zag track from the bottom) is a Pinnacle with a few bolted lines on it. This is it. DBB on top.
On the down stream side of the pinnacle is an easy line to the top. Its really only worthwhile as a means to get to the top if you want to top-rope the other lines.
Bissett, French, 1997
On the downhill face of the pinnacle. Follow the bolts. DBB.
Bissett, 1997.
The upstream line of 4 bolts. Start from the right then go straight up. DBB.
Fox, 1997.
Uphill and slightly right of the above routes is a slabby looking piece of rock. This is Six-pack Slab and the following two climbs are there.
The left line of 3 bolts, past a hard start. DBB.
Fox, Nicholls, 1997.
"Cos it ain't no fuckin' slab", said the delusional first ascensionist. The right line of 3 bolts. DBB.
Nichols, Fox, 1997.
Dent de Lion Pinnacles
About 50m upstream from Gabriel Buttress or where you cross the river when the tide is out are two separate pillars of rock. The downstream one being the taller and pointier of the two.
The downstream pinnacle up past 2 bolts to the crack above and a DBB.
Fox and Bissett, 2001.
Down and right 10m from HTFB is a line of 3 bolts that go to a DBB.
Fox and Bissett 2001.
Tithog Pinnacle
Access- About 100m upstream from Gabriel Buttress, almost where you cross the river when the tide is in, is a small pinnacle almost hidden by the trees.
The hand crack on the left hand side of the pinnacle.
McMahon, Mohler, 1982.
Through the overhang right of Tithog past 2 bolts and a 1.5 cam to a DBB.
Narkowicz, 2001.
Ling's Pinnacle
Access- 100m upstream from Tithog Pinnacle or opposite the Prince of Darkness.
Start up the crack facing the river then go right around the arête and into the slant.
Ling, Lamb, McMahon, 1982.
The thin crack to the right of Ling's Slant with one bolt.
Narkowicz, 2001
Paradise Buttress
Another 50m upstream from Ling's Slant is the last passable piece of rock before the river bends around to the Tea Room Cliffs.
The left hand line of bolts to a DBB.
Narkowicz, 2001
The right hand line of bolts. Add a grade if you feel vertically challenged and you're onsighting it. DBB.
Narkowicz, 2001.
Tea Room Cliffs
Access- Directly opposite the Gorge Restaurant Tea Rooms look-out are two small cliffs, about 20m 1 is the most downstream of the 2 buttress.
Climb arête on separate pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB.
Fox, Munro, DeCesare, 1995.
It's not only wankers that do it. 2 eye-bolts around the corner from Boys On the Monkey Bars. Hard to avoid the block behind and awkward clips.
Fox, Munro, 1996.
and on Tea Room No 2 is ...
With a name like that who needs a description? The crack to a shallow yellow corner.
Thomas, Fantini, 1980.
Off-width corner 3m right of Yellow Corner. Surprisingly good fun.
McMahon, Ogbourne, 1982.
Up horizontal breaks and blocks 5m right of Passing the Time. A variant start 2m further right is also quite good.
McMahon, 1978.
Around bulge to crack.
McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982.
Guess what?
Robertson, 1978.