Riverbend
5-30 mins
All day sun
Vertical dolerite buttresses, up to 25m high. Mostly trad but with some sport and mixed routes.
Access
Drive out through St. Leonards to the Corra Linn bridge. A couple of hundred metres past the bridge is a gate on the left hand side of the road. Walk from here across the paddock and down the hill via a faint track. Head across the next paddock to the gate in the top right end of the field. Head diagonally left up the hill behind the gate to get to another paddock. Skirt the bush to the left, and then head straight towards the river. You should be able to see a few cairns and orange tapes that mark the decent gullies to the crags. Walking time is about 10-15 minutes. See Craglets for detailed directions.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
Riverbend
Access - This Crag is on private land. The land owner has given permission to access the crag for climbing. Lets keep it this way. See the notes at the start of the North Esk guide for details
The cliffs at Riverbend are about thirty minutes from Launceston (ten minutes drive and twenty minutes walk). There is a great variety of climbs and some are excellent. Most routes are on natural gear, with a few modern sporty ones for the hard boys and girls. Drive to Corra Linn bridge on the C401, and park 200m further on at the first gate on the L (the farmer has asked that climbers park past the gate so they can access the gate. The cliffs are approximately 1 km walk across the paddocks, on a bearing of about Mag 20. From the gate (GPS NES000), head across the field (roughly MB 40º), striking the first saddle at a clearing, about the fifth major tree from the R. A faint 4wd track descends into the next paddock and past the dry creek. Walk on the edge of the paddock. Keep on that bearing, to the only gate at the top R end of the field, about 5 minutes walk from the car. Follow a track up, trending L, through the light bush to the next crest and a big dead tree on the ground. You are heading for a big cairn at the top of the gully between Jesus Freak and Claire (GPS NES020). A second descent gully lies a further 60m or so upstream, descending steeply by Bullfrog Buttress. The Guide describes the climbs L to R, starting at Home Buttress, the furthest L crag (as you face the cliff), about 60m L from Bullfrog Buttress.
Home Buttress
About 30m left of Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter is a small buttress. This is the L most line.
McMahon, Ling, Mohlar, 1982.
The middle line.
McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Towards the R of this buttress is a thin corner. Layaway up the corner using face holds on the L.
Narkowicz, Tierney, Sep 1984.
Reculer Buttress
About 30m left of Bullfrog Buttress is a buttress with a 1m roof at ground level. Slightly uphill is a free-standing pinnacle. There are a couple of gross looking choss-buckets on the R of this, but some class up L. This is Reculer Buttress. There is a DBB above Only Boomerangs Come Back.
Climb the corner directly opposite the chimney. Avoid bridging unless you feel you're about to die.
D.Gray (solo), Dec 1996.
Climb up the arête , past the single bolt and up to the U at the top. Beware the "dinnerplate" rock for the final move. Rap off the final bolt.
Ng, 1986.
The most striking line in the vicinity. Follow the finger crack until it fuses, then move R and up. Rap station.
McMahon, Ling, 1982.
Start as for Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter. Climb this for 4m to the horizontal break, traverse R for 2m, then climb up the extremely thin seam using face holds on the L wall.
Narkowicz, Tierney, Apr 1983.
Start 2m to the R. Up past a carrot to join the above climb.
Ng,1996.
Climb the offwidth facing the river with big gear, trend left after, over some musical flakes with small gear and nice faceclimbing, mantle into the dihedral to climb to the DBB of OBCB
Jeroen Jansen, Shelly Napier, 5 December 2019
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Layback up the face (or use the offwidth if you're masochistic) to good gear, then launch straight up past the 2 bolts to a bouldery finish up the blank v-corner. DBB which can also be used for rapping off the previous climbs.
M.Perchard, Dec 1996.
The chimney R of the above climb. Looks shithouse, but its been done!
Ling, McMahon, 1982.
Climbs the LH edge of the pinnacle, just R of the deep chimney. Climb straight up the steep arête , past a lone bolt.
Ng, 1986.
Climb the R sided of the pinnacle past 3 FH. Great moves and an "out there" feel for a small climb. DBB.
Designed by Dave Grey, soloed by Marc Tierney (1997) and bolted by Fox.
Bullfrog Buttress
The most obvious buttress in the area is Bullfrog Buttress, which has a good range of routes up the bulging overhanging wall, and the steep classics further R. The descent into the area generally accesses this buttress first, and is the best place to get bearings from.
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
On the extreme L of Bullfrog Buttress is a micro-thin crack through a roof followed by a finger crack. Climb to the roof, then reach over this for a layaway. Two successive dyno's on flat holds lead to the finger crack.
Narkowicz, Sep 1984.
Nominated "best name of the year" in 1982 for the full version Don't You Hate Them Mornings When You Wake Up With Them Bullfrogs On Your Mind, it is (obviously) generally abbreviated to Bullfrogs. About 4m L of PMOUF is an easy looking line, where the angle of the roof eases. Climb it.
Ling, McMahon, 1982.
The line of 3 bolts 2m R of Bullfrogs (same start as PMOUF). Not so hard if you trend L a bit.
Grant Rowbottom, 1997.
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Takes the easier of the two obvious parallel lines through the roof. To access this climb a bouldery start (obvious) to horizontal. Traverse R 2m to the peapod then up crack through roof.
Narkowicz, Smith, Oct 1982.
Same start as PMOUF but keep traversing another R to the next crack. Up past a twenty-year old piton.
Smith, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Start directly beneath the 5 FH and crank away to glory. DBB.
John Fisher, 1997,
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Start on the block, move L and follow the crack system to the top. Sustained and tricky for the gear, but a great climb. A direct start has been added by Gerry at 26.
Gerry Narkowicz, 1984.
Takes in the most impressive bright orange wall on the crag. Start as for Kickstart Corner. After climbing that for 3m, traverse L across the overhanging orange wall leftwards to the arête, then follow the crack to the top. Reachy and committing.
Narkowicz, Tierney, Sep 1984.
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
The corner L of Kickstart. Climb up the steep corner for 3m to the block. Move up over this, then finish up the hand crack and steep face.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Start off the block and (with great difficulty) gain the crack, with good pro. Continue jamming straight up the steep crack. A brilliant route. Descend by down-climbing the easy chimney behind Initial Resistance.
Narkowicz, McMahon, Oct 1982.
The route to the right of Kickstart. Another problematic (unprotected) start leads to easier jamming, palming, laybacking; the only way this rock hasn't been ascended is blindfolded!
McMahon, Narkowicz, Oct 1982.
Cross another gully, to the buttress about 30m right of Bullfrog Buttress.
Northern Girls Buttress
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
The first obvious line, taking in the searing finger crack up the steepish wall. Start off the block. Finger jam to the small roof where the crack thins. Layaway over this (crux), heading L for a good hold, some poxy fingerlocks before collapsing on the finishing ledge.
A direct start has bee done by Isaac Lethborg which goes up past 1 bolt to the ledge where Northern Girls usually starts from. Add a grade for the direct version
E.Peacock, J.Kennedy, 1984.
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Just R and around the corner from Northern Girls are four good looking lines. This is the L most one. Jam up the hand crack, then finish up the easy offwidth/chimney.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
The next two lines are very close parallel cracks - Full House and Royal Flush. They are probably best climbed as one.
The L most of the twin cracks right of Life Support.
Ling, McMahon, 1982.
The thin crack/corner 1m R of FH. From the ledge go over the block on the R and up the face and arête.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Start at base of Royal Flush then aim for the first bolt. After the large ledge at half height slab moves past two more bolts. DBB.
Narkowicz, 2001.
Two bolts on the arête 3m R of The Last Minute lead to the large ledge at half height then two more protect the top arête. Same DBB as TLM.
Narkowicz, 2001.
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
4m R of Royal Flush go up wide crack to ledge then up hand crack in corner.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
The face with 3 FH and some natural gear. Difficult to avoid going right at the top. You may want to stick-clip the first bolt which is a ridiculously high placement for shorter folk.
Narkowicz, 2001.
The blank looking corner to the R. Originally soloed to the halfway ledge, in 1985, and then later retro bolted to include the 'impossible' upper corner.
Gerry Narkowicz, 2002,
Claire Buttress
Go R for 30m to another small crag, bright orange in colour on the L and R, and black stained in the middle (where the bolted line goes up). On the L of the face is a thin crack.
Start just R of the black face. Another easy jam, climb the leaning corner with the tree at the top. Rap station.
McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
The blank looking face R of Claire. Climb the seams on the RH side of the face to a horizontal seam, traverse L along this to gain the top as soon as you can. Run out.
Narkowicz, 1984.
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Climb the thin rightwards trending crack up the steepish corner. DBB.
Mohler, McMahon, 1982.
The line of 3FH 5m to the right of "In Your Town". Take a cam (#3 ish) for the horizontal break then over the top to the DBB.
Ng, 1986.
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
The easy crack just R of Ankle Biter which goes through a small roof at 3m. A bit problematic through this, but eases after that before a sharp finish!
Narkowicz, McMahon, Smith, 1982.
Alternate start to the above. Crack 1m R .
McMahon, Mohler, Narkowicz, 1982.
Next corner, uphill and R.
McMahon, Mohler, Ling, 1982.
Powderfinger Buttress
Cross another dead-tree filled gully to the last of the buttresses, 30m to the R.
The first climb that you come to after the gully. Climb the blunt arete past 2FH to ledge then small cams on the face above. DBB.
Fox, DeCesare, 2019
2m right of "Waiting for the Sun". Climb past 2FH to horizontal break and small cams above. Shares same DBB as "Waiting for the Sun"
DeCesare, Fox, 2019
Twin cracks past several horizontal breaks on the LH end of this buttress.
Narkowicz, Kearnes, 1984.
Start in the chossy gully, 6m L of Powderfinger. Ease up past the large flake (at the time of this ascent it felt well stuck on) heading R for the small L facing corner. Straight up above this to the top.
Bill Baxter and John Gale, 25 Apr 2008.
Poorly protected. Face and thin seams L of Powder Finger.
Narkowicz, Tierney, 1985.
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Intermittent crack and face climbing. Start at the block, and follow easy hand jamming to the bulge at half height with the difficulty increasing towards the top. A great route. DBB.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.
Start from the same block as "Drive All Night" but clip the bolt and move left up the face to a second FH and a tricky mantle. Continue straight up the face past small cams and wires to DBB.
Fox, Decesare, 2019
Climbs the face 5m to the R of "Powderfinger". Less than average protection. Start from the block and layaway up the edge until it runs out, then go directly up the blank face. Claimed to be one of the best climbs at Riverbend, but tread with caution.
Gerry Narkowicz, April ,1983.
Next line R of Drive All Night.
McMahon, Mohler, Ling, 1982.
Drop down the gully and along for another 20m for 3 more worthwhile climbs.
Bouldery climbing past 3FH to same DBB as Possum Prostanthera
Fox, DeCesare, Kearnes 2002
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Climb the sharp arête past 2 FH on the detached block 2m L of "Too Much Alcohol". Give yourself an extra 2 grades if you avoid bridging across the chimney. DBB.
Kearnes, DeCesare, Hyland, 2002.
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Climb straight up the finger/hand jam crack in the back of the corner to the hanging block. Good protection and a few good rests.
Smith, Narkowicz, Ling, McMahon, 1982.
Uphill from Too Much Alcohol 50m or access via decent gully downstream of Powderfinger rap bolts.
Off-width and thin finger crack side by side. Climb the finger crack, has good protection, little rest.
M.Koch, P.Koch, Nov 2013
Second Drop Buttress
Start in corner crack with solid hand jams to the roof, continue past small roof into off-width to finish on top.
M.Koch, P.Koch, Nov 2013
Right of “Until it Sleeps”. Start on obvious crack, the move to the lip is fingers and provides good jamming then face hold on top to top out.
M.Koch, P.Koch, Nov 2013
First crack on the buttress from decent gully. Climb thin crack, at the ledge head left towards shark fin flake and over the top to finish.
M.Koch, P.Koch, Nov 2013
Riverbend North Bank
From the top of Riverbend a ragtag collection of buttresses is visible on the other side of the river. Being largely south facing these cliffs are better in summer. Access either by crossing the river from Riverbend or by walking up from the Corra Linn bridge on the Launceston side of the river and dropping down when you are opposite the downstream end of Riverbend.
An isolated pinnacle on the most downstream end of the cliffs. Opposite Powderfinger. Climb the thin crack in the middle of the face and traverse R at the roof.
Selby, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1999.
50m upstream from Gone a Gutser is another small buttress called Marengo.
The thin corner on the far L.
Narkowicz, McMahon, Selby, 1999.
The hand crack on the L side of the pillar.
Evans, Selby, 1999.
Up the face of the pillar R of Camless Cammo past 2 bolts.
Selby, Evans, 1999.
The hand crack on the R of the pillar.
Evans, Selby, 1999.
The hand crack on the far right.
McMahon, 1999.
Continue up river on the top of the hill for 200m until you come to a dead tree. Drop down hill here to the next lot of climbs on Funny Geraniums Buttress.
The off-width in the corner on the downstream end of the cliff.
McMahon and co. 1999.
The thin corner to the R of Lannes.
Evans, McMahon, Narkowicz, 1999.
McMahon displays his knowledge of Greek. The finger crack through the overlap.
Narkowicz, McMahon, 1999.
The main corner crack system on the upstream end of the crag.
McMahon, Evans, Firth, 1999.
Up the arête right of Funny Geraniums past hollow block to thin crack on the L .
Narkowicz and co., 1999.