thesarvo

Eldon

16 Routes0510<1616-1920-2425+TradSport
  • Walk10 minutes flat walk
  • SunAfternoon sun
  • RockShort sandstone

Introduction

Eldon is a small sandstone crag with some great steep rock. It's pretty limited in scope and won't be everyone's cup of tea, but it has the advantages of a flat 10 minute walk in, fun routes on steep & solid sandstone, and a pleasant sunny aspect. It's climbable in winter if the sun is out. There is quite a lot of other rock in the general area to be explored, for instance in the Rhyndaston Gorge and the Gravelly Ridge CA.
Please respect the closed projects.

History

The crag was found by Dave Humphries and Jon Nermut in 2013, and developed over the winter.

Access

Eldon is about 50 minutes drive from Hobart via Richmond and Colebrook. At Colebrook turn right on to Eldon Rd, towards Tunnack. Follow this up over the hill and down the other side. At the bridge head left, onto the gravel road. Follow this until it turns back to bitumen and up the hill. Park on the side of the road just before the gate marked "Eldon Hill". The track starts 50m down the hill from this at a small rock shelf. Follow the red tapes up the hill until you hit an old 4wd track. Turn right on this and follow it out towards the ridge. Just before it heads back right inland, more red tapes head down to the crag.
The crag and access walk are within the Spinning Gum Conservation Area which is public land.

GPS

Bonsai Buttress

1.

Minimalism

8m183Þ

Wall around to the left of the crag. A game of find the clean holds.

Jon Nermut, Jun 2013.

2.

Luke's Climb

10m183Þ

Up the yellow corner on the left side of the crag. At the roof either step left on to the face, or better, head out right (needs some more cleaning).

Luke Einoder, June 2013.

3.

Flossin

202Þ

Start up the corner, then head right through thin holds to juggy arete.

Fraser L-R and Samson Stensleton June 2021

4.

Shibari Swami

★8252Þ

Boulder up steep start on thin holds. Up R to pocket, then back left and up. Jump start goes at 22.

Fraser L-R June 2021

5.

Banzai!

★10m234Þ

Up the wall then head left through the bulge.

Jon Nermut, May 2013

6.

He's Lichen It

★10m224Þ

Up the wall then through the steep bulge.

Guy Abell, June 2013.

7.

She's Lichen It

★★10m234Þ

Start up He's Lichen It and go right through the steep section to join Bonsai.

Guy Abell, June 2013.

8.

Bonsai

★★10m224Þ

Very nice steep climbing up through the bulge using some awesome slots.

Dave Humphries, April 2013.

9.

Piss Ant

★★10m174Þ

Nice climbing up the pillar. There is a harder variant on the face to the right.

Jon Nermut, April 2013.

10.

The Runt

8m173Þ

To the left of Rude Not To.

Dave Humphries, April 2013.

11.

Rude Not To

★8m193Þ

Up the nice golden rock. Wish it was longer!

Dave Humphries, April 2013.

Roof Area

This crag is about 50m south of the Bonsai crag and consists of two large 6-7m roofs. The rock isn't as good as on Bonsai, but is good enough.

12.

A Pig and a Flingo

8m203Þ

Start at the left of the edge of the roof, and climb awkwardly up the face until you get to some nicer steep jugs.

Jon Nermut, May 2013.

13.

A Clip and a Swingo

★8m224Þ

The jugs start huge and reduce to good at the top. Start at the left edge keeping right of APF. Round the lip and keep going to the anchors.

Dave Humphries May 2013.

14.

Suspension Trauma

★★9m234Þ

Start at the right side of the roof, out to the scoop, then head left to jugs and up crack on head wall.

Fraser L-R June 2021 Bolted Dave Humphries 2013

15.

Project

4Þ

Project (open). Start at the right side of the roof, out to the scoop, then head straight out through the scoop to the lip.

16.

The Manxster

8m224Þ

Start in between the two roofs, climb the brown rock through the roof then awkwardly up on to the face.

Jon Nermut, Jun 2013.