thesarvo

Sheffield

The Badgers Ranges (Far South)

The Badgers Ranges is about a 20 minute drive south from Devonport and 2 to 3 minutes north from Sheffield itself. If you are coming from Launceston it is quicker to turn off the highway at Elizabeth town and drive to Sheffield that way. When you arrive at Sheffield turn north into High Street and onto Nook Rd, continue north for about 3 km and then right onto a gravel Rd. After about 250 metres you will arrive at a parking area on the right. Walk up hill following obvious vehicle track through disused gravel pits for about 200 metres. Look out for orange tape on your right which signals the start of the old Kimberly's lookout track, follow track uphill until pink tape and cairn are reached on your right and simply follow the pink tags. The first boulder you will arrive at is Slab Boulder. The area was developed by the author of this guide Gary Burgess. It should take about 15 minutes to walk from the car park to the boulders (you can see the area from the vehicle track).

Edited Sheffield Reference Map.jpg
Badgers Far South Layout.JPG

The boulders are conglomerate and the holds can be quite sharp and loose. The problems have not received a lot of traffic. It has quite a few easy to moderate problems and some harder ones. Generally the landings are ok but there are some with very bad landings. Also some problems are quite high. If you are visiting this area in warmer weather be aware of snakes as they are surprisingly plentiful in the area. The author/developer of these problems has limited experience with the 'V' grading system so treat them as a rough guide only. No stars are given to avoid controversy. Bouldering/climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. The author of this guide accepts no liability whatsoever including negligence, for any injury or damage caused to climbers/boulderers, third parties or property arising from the use of this guide. The author does not accept responsibility for any errors, inaccuracies, omissions or incorrect information.

Slab Boulder

01 Slab Boulder Problem.JPG
1.

Central

VE(SDS)

Not a brilliant problem but treat it with respect as it is higher than it looks.

Face Boulder West

02 Face Boulder West Problem.JPG

Located directly above Slab Boulder.

1.

Crutch Rot

V1(SDS)

Overhanging start to big holds then onto slab.

2.

Bitter Sweet

V2(SDS)

Slightly harder start.

3.

Boober

V0(SDS)

Ok, easy.

Face Boulder South

03 Face Boulder South Problem.JPG
1.

Eye Ball

VE(SDS)

Easy.

2.

Sloper

V1(SDS)

Interesting sloping holds in top half, nice warm up. No cheating on the start.

Flip Boulder

04 Flip Boulder Problem.JPG

Directly above and to the right of Face Boulder.

1.

Edge

V1(SDS)

Lay off outside edge.

2.

Flip

V1(SDS)

Watch the top

2a.

Flipper

V1(SDS)

Up Flip then traverse out along crack. Slightly easier than Flip.

On the South side of Face Boulder.

Orange Face

05 Orange Face Problem.JPG

Overhanging boulder left and up hill from Flip boulder.

1.

Loot

V0(Stand)

Up left side.

2.

Scoot

V4(Stand)

Will make you think, bit sharp.

3.

Hoot

V4(Stand)

Bit more straight forward than previous problem.

4.

Boot

V2(Stand)
5.

Wet Glass

V0(Stand)

Straight forward enough.

6.

Swing

V1(SDS)

Straight forward traverse?

Trash Heap

06 The Trash Heap Problem.JPG

Slightly up hill and right of Orange Face.

1.

Trash

VE(Stand)

Straight forward easy problem on good big holds.

The Cube Lower Tier

07 a The Cube Lower Tier Problem.JPG

Just south of Flip boulder.

1.

Demon

V3(SDS)

Difficult.

1a.

Rise

V3(SDS)

Up Demon then traverse right using obvious crack for hands.

2.

Hades

V2(Stand)

Possible sit start also.

The Cube Upper Tier

07 c The Cube Upper Tier Problem.jpg

Directly above Cube lower on prominent ledge.

1.

Unnamed

V?(Stand)

Project

The Cube Right Side

07 b The Cube Right Side Problem.jpg

All these problems are quite high.

1.

Defying Gravity

V4(Highball, Stand)

Start in gap between large flat block on ground and the main wall. Easy to mantle at ledge at half height. Then quite sketchy to the top. Watch out for loose holds. Highball.

2.

Unnamed

V?(Highball, Stand)

Project - Highball

3.

Unnamed

V?(Highball, Stand)

Project - Up the outside edge. Highball

The Twin Boulder Left Side

08 a Twin Boulder Left Side Problem.jpg

Just to the right of the Cube Right Side.

1.

Valour

V3/4(Stand)

Up onto main face and into fused crack where difficulty begins. Highball and crap landing.

The Twin Boulder Right Side

08 b Twin Boulder Right Side problem.jpg

Large boulder with overhanging base. Directly to the right of above.

1.

Thorn in My Side

V5/6(Stand)

Hard, thin and sharp. Up to good hold then trend right and up best you can. Possible sit down start.

2.

Unnamed

V5(Stand)

Hard, overhanging and thin, slightly more to the right than the line suggests. V3 if you cheat by using the prominent block of rock at base!

Old Man Loner

09 Old Man Loner Problem.jpg

Over behind Twin Boulders.

1.

Old Man

V1(Highball, Stand)

Up obvious mossy corner, right under roof and up off width. Highball.

The Knob

10 The Knob Problem.jpg

Few metres south east of Old Man Loner.

1.

Eye Ball

VE(Stand)

Easy line

The Unknown Left Side

11 a The Unknown Left Side Middle Problem.jpg

The Unknown is about 35 metres south of Flip Boulder and is a substantial bit of rock but has limited potential.

1.

Zac

V0(Stand)

Start at flat mossy area, up broken rock to small leaning pillar swing slightly left after top up steeper ground and into open book corner. Highball.

2.

Slant

V1(Stand)

Easy to right of little roof then up onto slab. Then follow prominent flake. Highball.

The Unknown Right Side

11 b The Unknown Right Side Problem.jpg

Further to the right of Slant.

1.

Scoop

V1(Stand)

Line of least resistance on good holds.

The Nose Boulder Left Side

12 b The Nose Boulder Left Side Problem.jpg

South west from The Unknown and slightly down hill

1.

Sooper Dooper

V3(SDS)

Good and not so good holds. Horrible landing even with mat and spotter.

The Nose Boulder Right Side

12 a The Nose Boulder Right Side Problem.jpg
1.

Unnamed

V?(SDS)

Project. Very hard problem. Out through little roof on very small holds to key hold on face.

2.

Stiletto

V3(Stand)

Up obvious weakness and left traverse prominent crack with good holds

3.

Snot Rag

V3(SDS)

Up to big holds then rightwards to flake, then left along it.

Mt Claude

There has been some development of an extensive boulder field on Mt Claude. Hopefully we will get some topos soon.