Sisters Beach
10-20 minutes
Quartzite
Acknowledgement
By Ben Thorp
Introduction
Long overlooked for rope lovers, there is actually quite a lot of bouldering in the vicinity of the climbing area at Sisters Beach. The rock is super hard quartzite, the lines are steep and the landings pretty good. So far there are about 30 problems but there is potential for many more.
History
Some of these problems were climbed back on 2012 but I've been pretty slack writing them up! The rest were added recently with Moses Bassett. Hopefully some more locals will develop the rest of the area.
Access
The Sea Side and Tidal boulders are accessed directly from the access track to Fly Butress.
The Corruption Wall boulders are accessed by continuing through the Keyhole. Climbing and walking around Dog Wall should be avoided until an Aboriginal heritage assessment has been completed.
To get to the Cove, head around the coast from the Sea Side boulders then follow the coast around.
GPS
Tidal Boulder
This boulder is the first along the track and is located below the track about 50m before the keyhole.
Scramble straight down from the track anyway you can. As the name suggests this boulder is partially submerged at high tide. However at low tide it provides quite a few good quality problems, with a harder project or two still to be done on the NW side.
These problems are on the south side facing the track.
Start on the crimps above the small boulder that Tidal sits on. Move straight up through the jugs finishing left at the highest point of the boulder.
Moses Bassett
Start hanging on the jugs and follow them right and then top out above.
Moses Bassett
Start on the small holds on the lowest point of the boulder and follow the best line out.
Moses Bassett
This problem is round to the right, on the NE side of the boulder
Start on two crimps and small feet, big move to a poor side pull/gaston and then easy finish.
Moses Bassett
Sea Side Boulders
Follow the track to a small scree slope, head down to the rocks from here. These boulders are located along the coast just below Fly Buttress and about 20m from the keyhole.
The first boulder in the area is at the top of the cove.
Easy Converts Boulder
On a tier above the low tide area.
Start on the big break and up.
B. Thorp
Start at the left end of the break and traverse along then finish up Ease Down the Road.
B. Thorp
Low Tide Boulders
The low tide boulders are underwater at low tide. Most are small boulders, some with immaculate rock generally fun.
Left arete.
Right arete with some foot work around the inconvenient boulder.
Life Aquatic Boulder
Start on the rail under the overhang, feet on anything above the horizontal ledge.
Above the waterline
The following boulders can be accessed when the tide is up by walking along one of the tiers.
Gully Boulder
Use the left arete.
Up the right arete.
Small Roof Boulder
Immaculate rock and hard problems.
Immaculate rock.
Start with the lip and the odd jug under the roof at the RH end.
Start as for the V5 and traverse the the full lip of the roof.
Mo Bassett 09.12.2021
Warm up Wall
Easy slab.
Orange Lichen Boulder
Start under the small roof hanging off a jug, around onto the sea-side face and up. Don't get sucked back under.
B. Thorp
Lurch up the orange lichen - which is surprisingly climbable without needing to be cleaned.
B. Thorp
Picturesque Face
This face can be found by heading further along past Lichen Lurch. As well as the great face problem written up there is lots of fun easier faces in a stunning location.
Start sitting under the face with right hand on an under cling and left on a crimp in the start of the crack. Straight up through some hard crimps for an easy but high top out. The stand start is also nice and goes about V4
Moses Bassett 30.05.2021
Corruption Wall Boulders
Long overlooked at the "centre of Tasmania sportclimbing", this collection of problems is actually pretty high quality. There is also an assortment of traverses and link-ups at the base of the Dog Wall.
Keyhole Boulder
Great problem heading up the crack from a sit-down start. Finish matched on the spike or head for the top (high). Seems to have been done as a route as someone has left some bolts....could also be done as trad. 3 different styles potentially for this one.
B. Thorp
Another great problem. Start at the same point but take the arete this time avoiding the crack. Finish matched on the spike or continue to the top (high).
B. Thorp
Start matched on the big jug, a couple of steep moves then top-out up the slab
B. Thorp
Start matched on the jug, take a low line across the bulge up to a cool pinch and then slap to the break. Traverse the break and finished matched on the good jugs.
B.Thorp
Finlandia Boulder
Up the pockets to a dangerous top-out
B. Thorp
Straight up the face
B. Thorp
Up the arete
B. Thorp
Up the easy face.
B. Thorp
Traverse around the boulder keeping a line about mid height.
B. Thorp
The Cove
East of Corruption Wall is a little cove with a great collection of boulders. A bit further to walk than the other areas but a lot of potential here.
Latino Lovers Boulder
Start on the lowest edges and up.
B. Thorp
Start low, out right to an obvious straight edge. Make a big move to the big pocket then traverse left to the next big pocket and up. A bit roundabout but makes sense.
B. Thorp
Up the face just left of the arete.
B. Thorp
Up the arete utilising pockets in the big flake on the left face. Watch out for the loose top-out.
B. Thorp
A really fantastic problem! Steep, sustained and powerful. Start at the lowest holds and follow the groove to the top.
B. Thorp
The Egg of Mantumbi
This boulder is high and very featured with great landings and an easy decent off the back. It is on it own just off the beach as you first come into the cove, you can't miss it. Recent development by Moses Bassett and Ben Young.
The right side of the boulder is all very easy, good as a warm up or access to the top.
The easy but chossy right hand arete.
Just left of the arete following the purple/cream rock to the non overhanging top out.
Start low under the boulder and follow the orange rock to the overhanging top out.
Sit start on good holds just R of broken corner (R of Pocket Cup). Low traverse across the seawards face of the Egg, finishing as for Soft Serve
C Arvier Nov 2017
The good left arete, find the left hand side pull after the big pocket.
On backside past the left arete is good line on plenty of small holds.