thesarvo

For A Few Doallars More Area

28 Problems051015VE-23-56-89+
  • Walk30-45min
  • SunAfternoon

Introduction

This area is further up the ridgeline in between the two creeks. A highly concentrated area focused on the huge roof of the FAFDM boulder. Many hard steep projects as well as quality vertical walls and some easier slabs.

Access

Continue up the ridgeline until it flattens out slightly. You then head a bit more towards the summit of Lyell and cross a small creek.

The Sisters Brothers

These are the first two boulders you come to after crossing the first small creek. A nice big highball and smaller one on it's left. The problem's on the smaller one are on the mine side face. Potential for some more slightly harder routes on the big face.

1.

Phalanstere

★V3(SDS)

Sit start in under the steepest part of the boulder, up against the small boulder on the left. Head straight up the rounded arete to easy high top out.

Mo Bassett 04.01.2023

2.

How's Your Father

★V1(Highball, Stand)

This is a great easy highball straight up the middle of the face, with the hardest move right at the top to get the blood flowing.

Moses Bassett 07.11.2021

Sisters Brothers Boulder34

Sisters Brothers Boulder

  1. 3.SistersV0
  2. 4.BrothersV1
3.

Sisters

V0(SDS)

Up the left.

Moses Bassett 03.04.2021

4.

Brothers

V1(SDS)

Up the right.

Moses Bassett 03.04.2021

Cowgirls Boulder

5.

Candy Gram For Mongo

V0(Highball, Stand)

Start on the tufa and follow the diagonal until a vertical break leads to the top.

Ben Thorp 01.01.2022

6.

Blazing Saddles

★★V0(Highball, Stand)

Straight up the centre of the face toping out at the highest point.

Dave Sinclair 01.01.2022

7.

Cowgirls

VE(Highball, Stand)

The right hand line of the boulder.

Dee Marchesan 01.01.2022

Little Buddha

Little Buddha.jpg8910
8.

Sharik's project

★★V10(Highball, Stand)

Start in the pocket on the left of the face and head slightly left where there are holds. Could also be started out a flake in the cave on the left with a big span into the pocket.

Project

9.

Adam's Project

★★★V??(Highball, Stand)

Would be amazing if it goes. Straight up the guts if you cna find some holds.

Project

10.

Arete Proejct

V?(Highball, SDS)

Start low on the arete and head up laybacking the arete and avoiding rocking over onto the easy slab.

Project

The Ballad Of Buster Scrugs

A squat blocky boulder with some overlaps on the uphill side. Just past Little Buddha.

11.

Buster Scrugs

V3(SDS)

On the downhill side, straight up the white streak. Some hard pulling from the SDS followed by some more power to get to the lip.

Mo Bassett 02.01.2022

Django Unchained

This is a long low looking boulder on it's own just before FAFDM further up the ridge, past a few small trees. Has potential for a few more lines.

Django Unchained Boulder12

Django Unchained Boulder

  1. ★12.UnchainedV2
12.

Unchained

★V2(SDS)

Start sitting under the arete on the highest part of the boulder and straight up.

Moses Bassett 04.04.2021

For a Few Dollars More

A great boulder featuring a huge roof and some proud aretes. Plenty of classic projects still to do!

Continue up the ridge past a few faded orange tags. The cave is hard to see until you are right on it. You will go past the back side of Station boulder first.

13.

Hasta Luego, Amigo!

★★★V6(SDS)

This is the obvious line through the highest section of the roof with the best looking rock. It shows the potential of the cave once it's seen some traffic! Start sitting on the small boulder the main one sits on top of. Use the two large pebbles for your hands and head straight out past the great pockets, then turn the lip with 2 pebbles and a crimp. Not as pumpy as FAFDM but a couple of moves might be slightly harder.

Mo Bassett 27.01.2022

14.

A Fist Full Of Flies / A Fistful Of Flies

★★V7(SDS)

Starts sitting low on the waist-high boulder just right of For A Few Dollars More. Use the 2 ticked pockets to start, then blast through some strenuous moves to gain the juggy protruding undercling shared by FAFDM. From here head right through the roof crux (right hand out to the slot, left hand slaps to the arete) and pull through the final crimps at the lip, staying left of Hasta Luego Amigo!

The next obvious project would be to start even lower in the cave and climb into it as a mega linkup

Sule Mcrazy 29.01.2022

15.

Wheel of the Flies

V7

Adds some big moves on pockets to the start of FFOF. Start at the back of the cave, perched on a boulder which appears to support the roof boulder (not quite, there is a 5mm gap). Sit start with the left cheek on this, good pocket for left hand, and nearby opposing edge for right hand. Climb into FFOF, avoid dabbing on its sit start and finish as for that.

Claudio Trefny 04.03.2022

16.

For a Few Dollars More

★★★V6(SDS)

A fantastic problem. Start right back under the roof sitting on the a waist high boulder. Follow the line of least resistance out the roof for 5 metres then punch though the crux moves on pockets turning the lip.

Ben Thorp 2015

17.

For A Few Dollars Less

★★V4/5(Stand)

For a Few Dollars More can be done from a standing start half way out of the cave and is still an enjoyable climb at a slightly easier grade. Start on two good pebbles facing opposite directions, swing your feet on and top out.

Ben Thorp 2015

18.

El Indio

V3(SDS)

The short hanging arete left of the cave.

Moses Bassett 04.04.2021

19.

El Indio Right Variant

V2(SDS)

Once up and stable on the arete step right onto the face for a slightly easier finish.

James Ridgers 23.05.2021

20.

The Man With No Name 2

★★V3(Highball, Stand)

A nice bold problem in a great position on the high vertical face of the back side. Start with left on a jug pocket and right on a crimp, swing your feet on and launch to the loose looking flake/ledge(this has been pulled and stood on and seems OK ATM). Head straight up to top out. The cave extension is still waiting to be done and should make this another classic. Could be easier if you're tall.

Moses Bassett 07.11.2021

21.

The Return of The Man With No Name

★★★V5(Highball, SDS)

SDS inside the cave at the end of the small left boulder. Come out through the pockets without using the other wall or jamming and continue into The Man With No Name 2. Could potentially start even deeper in the cave but it would be pretty hard.

Mo Bassett 02.01.2022

22.

Clint Eastwood

★★V4(SDS)

On the boulder that the cave boulder sits on. Start crouched/hanging low on the arete, traverse right and up to top out where the two boulders meet.

Liam W 07.11.2021

23.

Crimp Eastwood

★★V4(SDS)

Starts 3m right of Clint Eastwood, under where the two boulders meet. Sit start on the left incut hold and right side pull, float up through the crimps before making a big move to the rail out left, then finishing as of Clint Eastwood

Sule Mcrazy & Mitch Scanlan-Bloor 27.01.2022

Station Boulder

This boulder is just down hill from the cave, walk past The Man With No Name. It has a great high face, facing the mine.

24.

Take It Too The Station

V0(SDS)

Straight up the low left end.

Mo Bassett 23.11.2021

25.

Take It Back

V1(Stand)

Start just left of the small purple boulder and finish at the same spot as Take It Too The Station.

Mo Bassett 23.11.2021

26.

Open Project

V1-V3(Highball, Stand)

Straight up the middle of the face. Bit of a dodgy landing with the purple boulder underneath. Only the top out cleaned so far.

27.

Kids These Days Don't Like Westerns

★V4(Highball, Stand)

Start under the small overhang on the right end, up and past the overlap with some fun moves.

Mo Bassett 23.11.2021

28.

Open Project

V3-V6(Highball, Stand)

Start in the same spot as Kids These Days Don't Like Westerns and head for the highest point on the boulder. Thin tricky looking section about half way. Hasn't been cleaned yet.