Flinders Island
half an hour ish
Afternoon sun
Compact, fine grained granite up to about 100m high.
Introduction
Mt Killiekrankie is a spectacular coastal area on Flinders Island in Bass Strait that offers extensive granite cragging with more than 200 climbs on excellent rock.
It is predominantly a trad climbing cliff utilizing removable protection and threads as much as possible. Bolts may be placed for anchors when threads are not forthcoming and the route is sufficiently popular to warrant them. Please do not place bolts which are not stainless steel. Whilst there are some excellent sport climbs on the Island, bolts on routes are to be avoided unless the route is superb and the addition of bolts will not be visually detracting.
The first ascent of naturally protected routes should be done placing the gear on lead. Fixed protection should only be used on sport climbs in preference to placing additional bolts. Retro bolting is strictly frowned upon without consultation.
All the information in this guide should be taken with a large portion of salt. This crag is still very much in its infancy. There is very little consensus about the grades and quality of much of the climbing here. There are many excellent routes thats are hard to access and many average routes with anchors at the top. Whilst i've tried to be objective, the stars undoublty reflect my own (Simon B) preferences for routes. That said I've tried to maintain a conservative approach to starring routes. A one star route for example should be very much worth climbing and in many cases, given that you are climbing in good conditions, might exceed your expectations.
A significant amount of work has been done by a small group of climbers unearthing and re-recording old climbs and equipping new routes. Some of that information can be found here on thesarvo or in third edition of the Climb Tasmania Guide. Please do not copy this information onto thecrag.com
Access
On the north east coast of Flinders Island, which is in the middle of Bass Strait. There are flights from both Launceston and Melbourne that arrive in Whitemark on Flinders Island. You can hire a car on the Island (expensive) or try and get a ride up to Killiekrankie. There's a new road that comes into the north of the cliffs, and its about a half hours walk from the end of the road along the shore. The cliff is set back about 400m from the coast.
Although it may seem as if you're at the ends of the earth, The Dock and Killicrankie is a very special place to many locals and folks off the island. Please try to represent climbers in as positive light as you can! :)
Camping
Camping with limited facilities can be found at Killiecrankie Bay. To book a spot at this privately owned camping area contact Jude on 03 6359 8464. Walking from Judes Place to the main crag takes 75 minutes, although Diamond Gully and Billy Goat Bluff are closer.
The area is seeing increased traffic among walkers, and locals and land managers are increasingly concerned regarding impacts, toileting, and fire. Please ensure your activities around the cliff are kept low key and discrete. The old hut site where people used to camp is now frequently visited by walkers and tourists.
GPS
Guide
Climb Northern Tasmania (out of print) by Bob McMahon and Gerry Narkowicz contains a valiant effort in putting together a comprehensive guide to the island but still requires a Phd. in guide-book-oglyphics to find anything but the most obvious lines. The most recent Climb Tasmania guide has a decent selection of routes and includes mostly true information, it's a definite improvement. Thecrag.com is hardly worth mentioning and I hope their servers crash soon.
There are scores of routes that have been recorded in Climb northern Tasmania which ultimately was a spruced up version of Steve Craddocks guide from 1987 Alot of the routes are probably not worth repeating but there are un-doubtly a hand full of gems that could be dug up and re-recorded for the benefit of climbers to come. If one is interested in making first ascents its worth perusing these documents if you can get your hands on them. Unfortunately due to a plethora of reasons, many old routes will never truly be shined up because the cryptic nature of their route descriptions. Trying to find 'the prickly bush' or the 'obvious short upside down left facing corner beneath a dead hakea on pitch 5', 40 years after the first ascent is ultimately only a subjectively possible task and you might just be better using the guide to establish dialogue with a passing pod of dolphins.
The Dock
There are some ok routes at The Dock but generally the rock is average. It can be easy to get sucked in here because of it's proximity to the car park. Keep walking.
The Docks
A fun little route with decent pro for the grade 16 leader. Several short cruxes with nice finish make it interesting.
Farthest route on the left before heading up gulley to summit.
A fun climb with a few carrots. Single trubolt added at top of dykes at the docks with mallion to amend existing expansion with chain links Dec 2017
Climb the overhanging intermittent cracks on the left side of the back wall of Dykes at the Docks, via 5 bolts to a DBB.
Nick Hancock 2004
Probably not the worst route at the docks but fairly consistent with the the general quality of the area. Better off heading down to the main cliff :)
10m left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB.
FFA John Fischer, Simon Bischoff, Alex Hartshorne 6th December 2014
GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = B.O.O.B.)
Red Wall
The route follows the line indicated as Paradise Prow in the climb Northern Tasmania guidebook, but now sports 6 bolts and a new name. South west facing wall at end of The Docks crag. DBB
Patrick Munnings 2021
GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = TITS)
Climb the stunning North face of the top block at the Docks. Four U bolts to a single U bolt belay.
Nick Hancock Dec 2002
Suspension Trauma Area
Up the corner and zig zag through roofs. All gear.
Malcolm Matheson
Has a bolt at the crux. Unsure if this has been freed or not.
The shorter tombstone buttress around 50m to the right of suspension trauma cave with a splitter running up the middle. Harder than it looks.
Simon Bischoff and Tierney O’sullivan Dec 2014
Toblerone Area
Toblerone Area
Fun route by itself but really a warm up and access for Toblerone. Dark friction slab below the pyramid of granite candy. 4 bolts. You can belay easily from the giant she oak.
Anna-Veronique L'hoest, Alex Hartshorne 11th December 2014
Summits the amazing candy shaped chunk of granite that stands out on the Killiecrankie skyline. ~15 minutes walk from the end of 4wd track at the docks. Can be viewed briefly from the last clearing on the track. The best way to get there is up the cairned drainage gully (the third one along the track). Follow this easily up to a wombat hole and another cairn then bash for about 5 meters to another clearing and head directly to the base of Bounty. Climb Bounty to access or scramble around left (but who would?) Ascends the left arête and face via excellent friction climbing to gain the one foot wide ridge at the top. Amazing. 4 bolts to DBB.
GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = Toblerone)
Anna-Veronique L'hoest, Alex Hartshorne 11th December 2014
Suck Me up the Funnel of Death
Suck Me up the Funnel of Death
Nick Hancock Jan 2003
Main Cliff
Introduction
The main Killiecrankie cliff and surrounds begins with the Far Eastern Gulley. There are several dozen mostly moderate routes in the gully, but apparently few have ventured into it since the early ascents in the 90's, so trails have returned to bushbash.
Skye Descent Gulley is the major gulley on the right side of the main cliff with a number of routes, at the top is Blue Skies Coming, a recommended route. It is also the descent for many of the routes that go to the top of the cliff.
Next you have Skye Buttress and Beagle Buttress, with quality short routes that can be rappelled.
Moving to the right the main wall is intersected with three slabs: Pyramid Slab, Shining Slab, and Bruce's Wall.
To the right of Pyramid Slab is the Skull, a obviously named feature and the locale of many hard overhangs, and between The Skull and Shining Slab is a steep section with "Trust me, I'm an idiot", the Diamond Traverse and Jaws crack.
The dozen or so moderate routes on Shining Slab and Bruce's Wall are not well known, so first photos below are of that section.
Skye Buttress
Skye Buttress
Unfortunately not so swell. Starts at the foot of the corner on the front of the LH skye buttress. Climb up over the ledge, up the corner to short wall and to the top.
Peter Cunningham and Stuart Willis 3rd January 1984
The thin seam to the right of Swell corner and to the left of the obvious arete. Technical climbing on great rock with bomber gear. First rapped and cleaned by Simon Bischoff and gifted to squib when he visited the island. Ascend easy terrain and make a belay below the big ledge where the seam begins. Bolted anchor at the top.
Squib Feb 2015
Hamish Jackson and Jem Clemens July 2025
R. Staszewski, M.Grundy 3.1.84
Up from hanging belay for 5 bolts. Access either via first half of pain toy or by flight of the moonbird.
J. Bresnehan
Thin crack for 6m then technical slappy arete partially bolted by Hamish and TR worked for an hour - one move not sorted but estimated grade 29-30. Unique technical sustained.
Pitch 1 H & P Jackson 2019, Pitch 2 H & MJackson 1995.
Beagle Buttress
Stuart Willis, Mark Conner, R.Warhurst 14.1.84
Climb left leaning discontinuous, diagonal crack below short shallow corner. At foot of corner cop out by moving right into willy the wimp.
Dave Gilliat 25.12.96
Up through flakes, to the thin crack with a touch of spice.
Staszewski, Maher 7.1.87
Quite a good route if this is your grade. Left leaning ramp to stance below face. Step right onto the face with some delicate rock, then follow the the line back left and up.
Maher and Staszewski 1987
Pyramid Slab
Starts at undercut weekness three metres left of golden streak. Pull over over lap from loose blocks onto a slaby wall. Up and right to twin cracks and easier ground and Belay. The pitch originally finished here but is arguably a nicer way to access the second slab pitch of golden streak.
C. Baxter and D. Gairns 3.1.87
First couple of pitches seem quite good.
G. Lovejoy S. Craddock 27.1.85
Skull Walls
Skull Walls
Skull Walls Left Hand Side
1 move wonder through a cool feature. (No gear on top slab)
Niels Tietze & Liz Oh Feb 2015
The first of two major lines to the right of the skull. Either climb a short pitch to the base of the chimney or solo carefully up to the base of the smooth chimney.
R. Warhurst, Stuart Willis 11.1.84
Bridge up into the overhang to the protuberant undercling, pass the roof to an average rest. When the crack seams out move right into Poltergeist.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades March 2026
Short but good quality. Up to roof from ledge where some good gear can be found in cool pockets, Move out to the lip of the roof and make some committing moves left into the finger crack where more good gear is found. An extension is possible up the crack above.
Simon Bischoff 10.12.24
Scrappy Climbing leads to a featured roof to gain the main chimney. Slither up this to a DBB. First ascent was made using a variety of fishing Bouys, how ever 2 or 3 #6 Camalots would suffice.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades October 2024
Mike Law and Venus Kondos December 1996
The Goonies Cave
Fantastic steep granite climbing like no other place in Australia. Mike law contributed the first two routes to the area, Diana Palmer and Phantom. Both fantastic excursions. Many years later (2015) Niels Tietze and Liz Oh climbed the blisteringly obvious and epic 'Lion heart'. On the same trip Crazy John made the first ascent of Truffle shuffle. A magnificent route which requires almost every trick in the book. Recently Simon Bischoff has added Tiktaalik, a more direct sustained start to the head-wall of Diana Palma and Hard Candy.
Almost a sport climb. Traverse Left out of ASNS and up via the shallow corner. It is possible to traverse far left to an excellent knee-bar rest but I think it's fair to say this is off route.
Simon Bischoff March 2026
Superb rock and moves. Two bolts and gear. The second bolt is hard to clip without a long draw on it so it's recommended to come in from above to equip the route.
Simon Bischoff November 2024
Sausage Wall
The steep line left of Phantom. Not as tricky as phantom but a little more sustained. At the final roof move directly left until it eases off rather than trying to follow the crack directly through the roof. All gear.
Simon Bischoff 2023
The brilliant first pitch can be done without venturing to the top thanks to a new lower off anchor. Good conditions can be found on this route later in the day once a bit of sun-light has gotten into the deepest part of the chimney. All gear
Mike Law 1996
Goonies Cave
Incredible, One of the best routes at the cliff. Up shallow corner past large protrusion, a few committing moves take you to below the steep section.Through roof to crux pulling over the lip. Up flaring hand crack then out right on underling and offwidth till able to move right and climb face to DBB.
Niels Tietze & Liz Oh Feb 2015
Up through roof past an old bolt and a new one. Through flake jugs and onto head wall. Up head-wall past two carrots and a desperate crux before the lower off. Route has been climbed without the use of the carrots as there are good nut runners to be found.
Mike Law 1996
Up to thread, through steep groove and a rest where the route crosses truffle shuffle. Up via a sequence of Procul Harem style knee bars to reach a decent rest before the crux through the bulge. Once onto the the wall move left into Diana Palma. First ascent climbed ground up placing all gear and without use of the bolts on Diana Palma
Simon Bischoff 2023
In the big cave right of Diana Palmer. Tie into 2 ropes. Up to first bolt of Diana Palmer. Traverse R a few metres and then downwards and out the 10 metre roof. At the lip of the roof, wack in double knee bars, place a nest of gear for the 2nd rope then chuck off your first rope and finish up the crux 10 metre overhanging headwall taking the L hand crack.
All gear + or - the bolt on Diana Palmer to DBB
Crazy John Fischer 22 Feb. 2015
Start up Tiktaalik via the thread to join Truffle shuffle, follow truffle shuffle to the good-knee bar rest, here the two routes diverge. Truffle shuffle follows the main crack-line whilst repertoire takes a 90 degree turn out towards the lip of the roof. Past the lip of the roof continue up the head-wall just left of the blunt arete. At the second horizontal break and final crux move right onto the slab to join the anchor for truffle shuffle. All gear placed on lead. Originally there was a couple of bolts on the head-wall which were removed, now making it Tasmania's hardest traditional climb.
Simon Bischoff November 2024
More quality squirming. Start between Tiktaalik and Batholith.
Simon and Till March 2026
Short but great value. Up to roof via two bolts. Squirm out right through the featured roof and set up a high anchor above good thread for you second to top rope. Once the route is clean you can rap off the big thread on the lip of the cave.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades August 2024
Skull Walls - Right Hand Side
Skull Walls - Right Hand Side
Nice route, could do with a proper lower off. Original lower off bolt still in place.
Robert Staszewski, Peter Cunningham, Wayne Maher 31.12.84
Extremely run out climbing on the second half of the route... Start up apes in space, but instead of traversing out left continue blasting up the face until you reach the last good runner. Then head off boldly up the proud arête until you reach the rappel for trust me I’m an idiot. It was top roped prior to the first ascent.
Squib and Danger Darren Feb 2015
Great, a must do. Lower off two U bolts next to old thread.
GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = Trust Me I'm an Idiot)
Mark Colyvan and E. Bieske 19th january 1984
Fully bolted. Line of bolts to the right of trust me I’m an idiot. Varied climbing with a technical crux at half height followed by an amazing flaked roof with a powerful finish.
Simon Bischoff Feb 2015
P1 15m. Climb Chimney and Belay where the crack steepens into TMIAI.
P2 21 R. 20m. Traverse R and slightly downwards Cross Heart of stone. Follow dyke until you can climb upwards to belay at the apex of the diamond overlap with no pro for final 6 metres.
P2 22 25m. Follow undercling flake, climbing down slightly through the central over lap. Once the crack of Jaws is gained, continue up into alcove and thread to rap off.
FA Robert Staszewski and Wayne Maher 2nd January 1985. Rests on pitches 2 and 3 eliminated by Simon Bischoff and Daniel Hazell October 2020
Robert Stazewski, Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham 31.12.84
The Brain Area
Short but steep cave about 25m off the ground. One of the first bits of rock the climbing track passes.
Head left from here to access the skull, goonies cave, pyramid slabs and beagle buttress.
Head right to access don't knock the rock, central gully, campground wall, the soaks and everything else.
The brain can be accessed by climbing persistence or by a short ramble starting on the hillside to its left, this is also the begining of Silver Stairs.
The Brain
Takes the line of weakness to the left of the brain and after a pitch enters into lower angled juggy ground. A couple more steepenings are negotiated on the higher pitches just before and just after the portal cave. A large polished thread can be found at the end of pitch 3, level with the portal on the extreme left of the ledge (some exposed scrambling required) this allows for a bail or descent after most of the good stuff. Its a 40m rap to the ground or 25m rap with an easy traverse solo on the slabs in the direction of goonies cave.
This climb is the easiest way to the top of the cliff in the vicinity.
Low angle Crackline marked with a P below the brain. Originally granded 17, but probably knock a couple grades off. Nice little low grade ramble and a fun way to go check the brain out.
Multiple horn options inside the cave to facilitate a simulation rap descent
Robert Stazewski Solo 2.1.86
Start up Persistence to first ledge then traverse a couple metres right and head up the cracked face, take the line of jugs slightly to the left near the top.
Hannah Vasiliades and Simon Bischoff 22.08.20
This seam in-between persistence and Mr Rumpy Pumpy. All gear.
Adam Donohue.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades 20.08.20
Personally I don't mind a ladder or two but it turns out the start of MRP is not actually that hard if you want to skip the ladder start. It's a really good option for a single pitch climb if you link the first two pitches of MRP then veer right at the over hang and lower off the tat from the epix three way thread.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades June 2024
Starts at the furthest L of the main floor of the brain (as opposed to lower down and left). Tend L to climb hanging arete in good position.
Hamish and Marcel Jackson 7.1.95
Climbed entirely on threads. Reach up for thread straight off the ground. Pull through the roof and have a a sling at the ready the throw through the next thread. Pull through to easier ground. Lower off last thread.
Simon Bischoff
Takes the main line of the brain. Climb the Twin cracked roof. With a little knee bar trickery its not as diabolical as it looks. Rap off thread.
Alex Hartshorne and Simon Bischoff September 2020
Fun 3D climbing. Climb the steep roof into chimney a couple metres R of twin cracked rood (Brain Fart). Two bolts down low, careful clipping the second one, a few intermediate cams might help. Rap of thread as for Brain Fart.
Simon Bischoff and Alex Hartshorne September 2020
Starts at the back of the brain just to the R of a thin crack. This is about 4m right of the twin cracks and 8 m R of real brainy. Head out L at the base of the hanging corner of pitch 1 of tumour (about 9m) to swing onto the L wall of the bottomless chimney (crux). Abseil from sling at the back R of the short gully at the top. Excellent and unusual climbing.
Hamish and Marcel Jackson 7.1.95
Hamish and Marcel Jackson
Start up Tumour. Where tumour backs off and heads R to the belay go straight up through strenous bulge (crux). Continue up and over the lip. Rap off Bollard.
Alex Hartshorne and Simon Bischoff September 2020
Starts right of Tumour. Up short slab into thrutchy roof leading right, follow the crack line via some funky moves to a stance below the main roof. A high heal toe cam gets you established in the roof and very good gear follows. There is a single bolt around the lip which can be extended with a long sling to make working the moves at the lip a bit easier. Back cleaning is the easiest way to clean the route. Gear placed on lead.
Simon Bischoff August 2027
Campsite Area
Campsite Boulder 1
Bolted by Alex Hartshorne and climbed by Simon Bischoff. Short and powerful route in a perfect location. Sharp rock at the top detracts a bit.
Simon Bischoff October 2020.
Has been aided and tried by S. Bischoff. All the gear is there but it has an absolutely diablocal boulder problem on finger locks...an acquired taste.
Hannah Vasiliades solo July 2024
Takes the direct finish via a desperate move to a shallow pocket very high off the ground! Don't take the pikers variant out right! Awesome.
Simon Bischoff July 2024
Simon Bischoff July 2024
On the back of the steel pulse boulder there is a short over hanging arete with a nice sequence on it. Start by jumping to the jug. Could be led with gear.
Simon Bischoff solo July 2024
The overhanging wall directly opposite the driftwood shack. A variant was done by Tommy Krauss and Simon Bischoff in 2015. After the big jump move (crux), move R onto the arete for a more sustained finish.
Nick Hancock Dec 2002
Nick Hancock Dec 2002
Nick Hancock 2004
Nick Hancock Jan 2003
Nick Hancock Dec 2002
Don't Knock the Rock Cave Area.
Some nice climbing here, most of the routes originally went to the summit however a rap anchor can be found in a slightly awkward spot on the left side of the ledge where most of the good climbing ends. The scramble down from the top of sunbeam is a little sketchy so you may want to rope up. It's a 40 m rap from here to the ground or if using a single rope you can rap to the left side of the wall and utilize a very memorable thread on the RHS of the brain.
Don't Knock the Rock Cave Area
Robert Staszewski, Wayne Maher 30.12.84
Wayne Maher, John Pawson 13.1.83
G.Baudinette, Stuart Willis 19.4.81
Climb through the roof as for Armageddon. Step right around the corner and follow cracks up the face. Belay in the gully above and to the right of the rappel anchors. Down climb 5 meters to get to the rappel anchors to get off.
Robert Staszewski, J Mendoza 7.1.85
Up Armageddon but instead of moving left to the belay continue up the corner and through the roof to join the upper face of Sunbeam.
Simon Bischoff Sep 2025
Line up the wall to the right of Sunbeam. Looks excellent.
Fun route on the wall left of the overhanging nose.
Simon Bischoff andf Madi Russell 9.06.26
Was originally 14 and is probably still a sandbag at 20 to be honest. Don't let that put you off though (You've put me off)!
The best way into the back of the chimney is to climb a short but fun pitch on the right wall. Generally speaking the chimney can be climbed two ways. Either get yourself in deep or climb the line up from the belay. Both options are great but run out and both deliver you at the same crux exiting the chimney where one may need to take ones helmet off to squeeze through.
Take double ropes to rap off a tree.
The Main Wall
Noodle wall
Sketchy start leads to some good climbing on the wall above. Simul rap from each side of the rib.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades 2023
The Scrappy chimney traverse into oodle.
Hannah Vasiliades and Olivia Page May 2025
Starts as for noodle but takes the line right via a long move on great rock
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades July 2025
As for noodle hypothesis to the diagonal break, right for a few metres then up via the shallow scoop to a mini ledge (ledgette), mantel this on the right to a final crux reaching to a satisfying jug. The upper section has very good protection but you have to climb above it.
Simon B. and Ewan B. 7th june 2026
Robert Staszewski and Wayne Maher 3.1.84
Robert Staszewski and Mark Grundy 30.12.80
Simon Bischoff and Olivia Page May 2025
Massive bloody chimney. Completely subterranean and unique. Can Rap off as for deb Ball rather than continue to the top.
Stuart Willis, Ian Sedgman, D. Smith 7.3.81
John Pawson, Robert Staszewski, Wayne Maher 25.12.86
Quite good with a tricky crux. Steep groove through bulge to single bolt lower off. Originally graded 17. Lower single bolt as for ejector.
D. Vissor and A. Scholes Jan 1984
Offwidth crack 5m R of double diabolical. Climb strenuous and technical crack through the roof to easy ground and lower off.
Robert Staszewski 6.1.86
Stuart Willis, D.Smith, K.Rand 18.4.81
Epic if you're into this sort of thing. Start at the back of the cave and squirm your way through the roof trench using a fine assortment of techniques. Nothing bigger than a #4 cam needed. Best to back clean.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades June 2022
Robert Staszewski and J. Mendoza 4.1.85
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades 2020
Central Gully
Left side
First route in Central gully (LHS). Climb the ladder out of the bushes and onto the beautiful wall with five U bolts and some finger and hand sized cams near the top. Pre-clipping the second bolt is suggested.
Hannah Vasiliades and Simon Bischoff October 2020
A six pitch route which looks like it could be quite good. The first pitch to the shea-oak is not bad at all.
P.Woolger and Stuart Willis 1977
If it was at Arapiles its the kind of route that you might climb on your 10 or 15th trip there, but at killiecrankie it's a 1 star classic! Watch out for the committing crux. Rap of the tree.
Simon Bischoff Feb 2026
FA Peter Cunningham, Ian Sedgeman 3.3.86
Right side
Shanachie Wall
Shanachie P2
Peter Woolford and Jo Van Berkel 15.4.98
Moderate Climbing with spaced gear leads to a slot where you can place a bomber wire and cam that protects the crux.
Simon Bischoff March 2026
Two really good moderate pitches, especially P2 which is quite unique. Both pitches have DBBs
P1. 25m (21)
P2. 30m (20)
Simon Bischoff lead rope solo July 2025
Simon Bischoff lead rope solo July 2025
P1 Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades 26.1.24 P2-P5 lead rope solo July 2025
All gear
Simon Bischoff June 2025
The direct start to IGW has a very worthwhile boulder problem at the start that is well protected before easing off quite quickly.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades July 2025
Climbs the big roof to the left of the second pitch of Gale. After turning the lip of the roof continue up left leaning line for 6 metres until a nice belay can be found in a large pod. 2 wires were left here to rap from but the route would warrant a bolted rappel.
Simon Bischoff (lead rope solo) July 2025
G. Baudinette, Mark Grundy 17.4.81
Up electric balm, then spaced gear and good holds to a well protected crux
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades
Gear and 1 bolt to protect the first crux.
Simon Bischoff August 2025.
The wall to the right of the large chimney which is Gale.
Access via the first pitch of gale. The start traverse is largely unprotected in any meaningful way, but the holds are quite good until you are rewarded with a nice flake and good gear. From here go straight up to an artificial thread which protects the traverse back Left on beautiful in-cut holds.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades june 2025
Closed project. Couple of bolts and gear.
Another great route between the crazy arete project and Taipan. Start on the sandy ledge, squirm through the overhang and into the vague corner with a funky crux near the top. All gear.
Simon Bischoff september 2025
Campsite Buttress
John Pawson, Wayne Maher 14.1.83
A boulder problem on immaculate rock leads to easier climbing into Geranium. One bolt and gear. First climbed by Simon Bischoff with 39 points of aid of which all 39 were eliminated by the dynamic duo Mark Mcgivern & Dylan Tubaro in 2024.
FFA Mark Mcgivern & Dylan Tubaro April 2024
D. Smith, Stuart Willis 8.3.81
Allegedly good if you go the right way. You figure it out.
Wayne Maher and J.Pawson 15.1.82
-2.jpg)
- ★133.Watermelon Hand Luggage23
- 134.Worm Hole Death (Project)
- ★★135.V for Vaseline (Project)30
- ★★136.Subterranean homesick alien22
- ★137.Squirrel
- ★138.Tetanus23
- ★★139.Adventures in Paradise18
- ★★140.Adventures in Paradise Direct Finish17
- ★141.Black light26
- ★★142.Puffin Magic30
- ★★★144.Thrasher30
- ★★★145.Hook, line and Sinker Direct26
- ★147.Mouth to mouth with a turtle28
Upper Alcove
Another overhanging chimney!
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades May 2024
Burly underclings. Trad and single bolt.
All gear.
Up first pitch of AIP and belay below the big roof.
Up wide corner then out via some wild stemming. Belay in the alcove.
Make a third pitch to join Squirrel.
Simon Bischoff and Alex Hartshorne September 2020
Nice multi pitch with a great chimney pitch through some amazing rock architecture. Although very fun and interesting rock, the 22 pitch is a bit out of character. Easy to skip it by doing the start of the second pitch of AIP.
1 - (17) Climb the crux of the first pitch of AIP but when it backs off move right and step across the gully in a alcove to belay.
2 - (22) Short but good little pitch. From belay go up cool scoops just left of crack. After a few punchy moves head out on right leaning crack towards improbably looking torpedo chock-stone. Continue up easy ground to belay behind the tree below the chimney.
3 - (15) Wild chimney pitch. Straight up the chimney with a few entertaining squeezes. Belay at big ledge where a nice thread can be found.
4 - (16) Step back over chimney from belay, make a few committing moves right on a small wire to get around the corner and onto the head wall. Pick your own adventure to the top.
Simon Bischoff, Hannah Vasiliades
Simon Bischoff May 2025
R. Harrison, Wayne Maher 26.10.85.
A good way to finish AIP and its takes you directly to the Rap line.
From belay at the top of the third pitch step left and take the black flake/crack line to small cave. Step 1 metre right to break through airy roof on flakes.
Steve Holloway, Russell Crow and Peter Woolford 29.3.97
Crux is protected by a single bolt. Finish up Puffin magic on gear.
Simon Bischoff 15.02.25
Up Firetail then traverse Left below first bolt and follow crack to the anchor. Grade will vary significantly, possibly up to a couple of digits based on the length and 'spreadability' of ones legs. All gear placed on lead.
Simon Bischoff April 2024
All the bolts have been removed as of August 2026 and the route can be climbed solely on removable protection.
Simon Bischoff 2018
Climb firetail corner and the first crux of firetail then head right on bulging cracked arete to eventually join HLS. FA done placing the gear.
Simon Bischoff October 2020
Sensational. Overhanging route on perfect rock. Head up cracks on good holds and slightly left around bulge past a bolt. Clip second bolt from rest with a long sling to reduce rope drag. Technical moves on right facing flake get you below the roof. Small cams or a #six protect the crux moves around the lip. Continue straight up to good rest below the hanging dihedral, which is the second pitch of hook line and sinker. Finish the final pitches as for hook and sinker. Unless im totally tripping this must be one of the best routes for the grade in Tasmania.
Simon Bischoff 2016
Peter Woolford & Russel Crow Apr 1997, FFA. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock (alt) Feb 2004
Possibly a bit contrived by avoiding the easier climbing at the top of Eden, but excellent climbing and position none the less. Climb as for HLS direct until the large undercling feature halfway up the corner on the right, from here traverse right out to the arete where there is a decent rest and bolt. Continue up staying on the left side of the arete on increasingly slopey holds until its possible to reach a satisfying jug on the right side of the arete.
Simon Bischoff Dec 2025 lead rope solo
Robert Staszewski and J. Mendoza 10 January 1985
Eliminates the hanging belay and the tension traverse on pitch two of norseman. After the first roof place a 0.75 camalot out right with a long sling to stop the rope going to deep into the crack. Seems a bit hilarious giving it two stars but there are some pretty good routes around here. The next pitch is well worth doing.
SImon Bischoff October 2023
Wandery start leads to some outstanding and unique climbing on the arete left of Norseman. Two bolts and pre-placed gear.
Simon Bischoff October 2023
Campsite Butress RHS
Takes the well protected under-cling to join up with Peppermint in the corner.
Simon Bischoff November 2023
Move left at the parallel finger cracks at the start of the second crux of peppermint. A committing and balancy move via the under cling takes you to some good gear followed by a few more tricky moves. Very good.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades August 2026
Start up the thin layback crack which gradually widens and takes you to a stance. The original line moves right into the featured chimney, this is quite good unto itself but at about grade 18 is alot easier than the start of the route. An alternative is to continue straight up via the top half of Peppermint for a more sustained pitch which incorporates the best parts of each route.
A nice route with some interesting climbing. Three bolts and gear
Simon Bischoff 2023
If penguin up a tree was a doddle, this variagated variation will hopefully threated to add a hernia to your holiday. Gear and 1 bolt.
Simon Bischoff April 2025
Pinnacle Recess
John Pawson and Wayne Maher 1983
Tucked away right at the back of the recess. Start at the right facing corner just before the pinnacle chimney. This route is a bit all over the shop in terms of difficulty with quite a stiff crux relative to the rest of the pitch. How ever the rock quality is consistently superb.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades 2025
The Pinnacle
Lovely route. You can lower off with a 60m rope to the ledge and scramble the last past on the left of the recess.
Not bad at all. The thin seam leading into the top of well hung. A unnecessarily dangerous and contrived variation as been done by going directly up the face after the crux, rather than taking the crack.
James McIntosh and Melanie Taws 25.12.86
Mark grundy, G.Baudinette 13.1.82
Initially accessed via the 'Unnecessarily dangerous and contrived' variation to So fine.
From the ledge traverse out to the very very very large semi de/attached flake. Hand traverse on the top of the flake placing gear in the horizontal crack just above. If the flake hasn't killed you yet take the bouldery sequence around the corner and into the chimney. Actually pretty fun, not as dangerous as it sounds and better than it looks.
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades June 2025.
Dildo Direct
The greasy looking offwidth on the West side of the pillar. So bloody good. Requires a bit of everything :)
Now equipped with a lower off (Needs Mallions)
Mark Colyvan 20 January 1984
The right trending line just right of Dildo direct. Crosses under roof to finish up Captain Pugwash at Christmas Carol first belay
David Gray, Vanessa Wills 2022
A good first pitch and an easier but interesting second pitch to take you to the top.
P.Cunningham and Wayne Maher 4.1.85
Simon Bischoff December 2023
Avoid over hangs
Up Tendonitis but instead of following the line leftwards head straight up through the awkward roof to easier ground, continue up to christmas carol belay.
R. Staszewski and J. Mendoza 4.1.84
- 164.Dante In Furneaux21
- ★165.Tendonitis20
- 166.Tendonitis Direct21
- 167.Avoid over hangs
- ★168.A Christmas Carol16
- 170.Plain flour18
- ★171.Bobbit22
- ★172.Rich Girl22
- ★★173.Inheritance22
- ★174.Walking Blues22
- ★★175.Existential Arthritis25
- ★★176.Golden Ticket17
- ★★★177.Milk and Honey26
- ★178.Mr Jeremy Fisher22
- ★★180.Rain Shadow19
Wayne Maher, Iain Sedgman (alt), A Salisbury, 25.12.81
Nice wall to the right of Christmas Carol.
Wayne Maher and Staszewski 6.11.81
Line starting just left of the chimney.
Simon Bischoff solo
Traverses the main break in the pinnacle with increasing difficulty.
Hamish and Marcel Jackson 10.1.95
Up twin cracks to break, traverse left to the right facing flake, up this to jug then traverse easily off right to the arete and summit.
Robert Staszewski, John Mendoza 12.1.85
Make Your way up to the large ledge. The route starts at the base of two parallel thin cracks. Climb the one on the right to the horizontal, move left a couple metres to the right facing flake. Make your way up the flake and continue straight up the crack until a balancy move leads you out left to arete and belay.
Hamish and Marcel Jackson 1995
Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades May 2025
From the ledge climb up the shallow left facing corner and up to bolt. Pass bolt and move into awkward corner, RPs handy here and a couple of black aliens. Strange rest in the break then slither into the bombay chimney (#4 camalot). Lower off tat from the bollard or continue to the summit.
S.Bischoff 28.10.23
Merry Schimanski and Simon Bischoff 2019
A brilliant route with steep technical jamming on perfect rock with ample protection. Late afternoon/evening conditions are best once the sun has come around the pinnacle and has dried off some of the spooge. Start by scrambling to the top of the recess where you can make a belay with a chock-stone. Climb weakness in slab that trends right to the base of the steep climbing. Follow the natural line until an obvious lower off from a big horn appears as the crack widens and the climbing becomes easier. Take some tat for the horn or continue to the summit with a fairly moderate pitch.
Merry Schimanski 2019
Classic burly killiecrankie jamming. Fairly sustained with a good rest in the middle.
Robert Staszewski
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Soaks
John Pawson and Wayne Maher 17.1.83
Excellent. Start in the flaky orange scoop to the left of the old soaks. Up the scoop to overlap then move left till you almost join Rainshadow. Instead, trend R to the bombay alcove and locate the anchor for Park and Soak.
Robert Staszewski and John Pawson. 27 December 1986
Just left of the soaks there is a bolt about 13 metres up. Start up the easy face under the bolt and trending left with good gear until the overhangs are reached. Move up and right to a bomber big cam placement (#4 camalot). Committing moves to an amazing undercling let you clip the bolt. The bolt protected crux is a crazy sequence R into the corner then up and back left to a massive jug. Tricky corner (22) up to a big hueco filled cave to a roof. Turn the roof using the giant ear of rock at about grade 22. DBB immediately after roof. The next pitch is a 25 metre 14 that will be popular for people looking for another moderate pitch before rapping to the ground.
John Fischer, Alex Hartshorne 9th December 2014
Stick clip first bolt. Crux past second bolt to a rest. Up left via slippery lay back and good gear. At bolt move right onto slab to a final crux and a spicy exit to the lower off.
Simon Bischoff 2022
Start right of the soaks. Pull onto wall at bolt, move left under overlap then up to join Chook therapy direct.
Simon Bischoff 2022
Does not look particularly inspiring from the ground but the climbing is very good. Starts in overhanging corner to the right of the soaks. The start is usually a little dirty and has just adequate protection to get you established in the corner where the rock and gear improve. Abseil from bollard which has new tat as of Spring 2023.
P.Cunningham, M.Grundy 1985
This original description might spark the interest of the every masochist looking for something more in their climbing.
This Worthless climb was done in a very dry summer. Starts at the soaks. Climb the mossy, waterlogged gully and make a tricky exit right under the huge chockstone.
Enjoy
Stuart Willis and M.Wright Easter 1995
Sedgies Buttress
A pretty average route really. But deservedly popular as low commitment, easy route with good pro and U Bolt lower off.
Stuart Willis and Chris Reeves 27.12.80
Starts in shallow corner 1m right of UYK. The face with two mantle shelf moves to the lower off. Kind of sketchy at the start, better off top roping it or leading UYK for the first 5-6m until you can traverse right into the line.
John Pawson, Robert Staszewski, Wayne Maher 28.12.86
More like below the bolt. After being looked at by all the greatest climbers of their generations this last great top rope problem falls to an unlikely pair of bouldering minstrels from the large island north of bass strait. The line on the far LFH side of Sedgies buttress.
Mark Mcgivern & Dylan Tubaro April 2024
A nice companion route to Offhand Comment. Probably a touch harder and certainly more sustained. Head up the shallow groove into a funky crux, protected by some small wires and black aliens. commiting moves to an OK rest at the slanting 'ledge', then traverse right to tackle the beautiful flake. All gear placed on lead.
Simon Bischoff June 2022
First crack L of Grunter. Crux is a short flaring hand crack with excellent pro. Finish up 15 metres of grade 22 fun. All gear. DBB
J. Fischer, N. Tietze, S. Young 17 Feb. 2015
The fierce thrutchy crack to the left of Sporran.
John Pawson and Robert Staszewski 27.12.86
Better than it looks. Up chimney, through steepness and traverse out left before the tree rather than continue up the crack line.
M. Norton and A Mihan 2.1.81
Thrutchty classic. Single bolt lower off to the right of alcove.
Derek Vissor, Anne Scholes January 1984
“If you come across your enemy’s ox or donkey wandering off, be sure to return it. 5 If you see the donkey of someone who hates you fallen down under its load, do not leave it there; be sure you help them with it".
The overhanging squeeze chimney to a single bolt lower off. A few people may find this climb amazing, most probably won't. What it lacks in length it certainly makes up for in character!
Iain Sedgeman, P.Cunningham 2.3.86
The obvious prow with a crack running up it on the far right of Sedgies buttress. The start (crux) is protected by a single bolt and bomber gear follows. Bolted anchor at the top.
Simon Bischoff Feb 2015
Sedgies Buttress Alcove
Sedgies Buttress Alcove
Quite a good sporty thing
Simon Young Feb 2015
Up the first 4 bolts of Simons routes, make a few moves left on the slanting crack then move right onto the wall (crux), a little spicy, to join crayfish pots...
Simon Bischoff November 2025
Extremely beefy. Best at the very end of the day once the sun has dried the spooge off.
The smooth corner to the right of crayfish pots.
Simon Bischoff October 2023
Doesn't look to hard or interesting really but turns out to be quite a good little route. All gear.
Simon Bischoff November 2025
Straight up the line via a single bolt.
Simon Bischoff November 2025
Billy Goat Bluff
Billy Goat Bluff
A great line!
2x BDc4#6's 2x BDc4#5's sling a chockstone then a full rack from BDc4#4 to BDc4#0.3
GPS Coordinates (Flinders Island - Killiecrankie - Climb = Slash)
finger/hand splitter crack, All gear.
FA. Joel Murray and Ben French Dec 2014 FFA Simon Bischoff Dec 2014
Diamond Gully cliff
- 1 hour
Pitch 1. The left leaning corner to belay on small stance on the right.
Pitch 2. Follows the steep corner to the top.
Mark Grundy and Stewart Willis 2.1.86
The main line of the cliff.
Mark Grundy and Stewart Willis 4.1.86
Robert Staszewski and Wayne Maher 30.12.86
Simon Bischoff lead rope solo May 2026
Stuart Willis, Mark Grundy and Mark Conner 1.1.86
Quality, steep climbing up through the flake.
Simon Bischoff lead rope solo 15.5.26
Starts at the far right end of the main-cliff where there is a small cave at the start of the climb. Climb the groove past flake at 10m then on to finish up the steep crack.
Stuart Willis, Mark Conner and Mark Grundy 1.1.86
Simon Bischoff lead rope solo 15.5.26
Bottle Rocks
At Bottle Rocks south of Killiecrankie. On the furthest right (south) crag, north of the gully. Climb an easy crack to the bulge, step right, then up easier but poorly protected slabs.
Nick Hancock, Angus McIntosh, Josh Gatehouse, Raiden Lemon & Alex Hogan-Jones Nov 2016
West End
Four km south of the turnoff to Killiecrankie township, head west on West End Road to the end of the road overlooking Roydon Island to the SE. Walk 15 mins beyond to below the large orange south facing cliff, topped with grey lichen. It's easily recognised by the massive R trending flake line down L, and the huge bomb bay roof up R. Avoid the scrub by starting the approach way L and trending R to a terrace leading across below the face from the far R.
Nick & Heather Hancock 2020
Blyth Point
At Blyth Point north of the Docks.
Toby Story
On a large beak topped buttress, step across from a boulder and climb the thin face past carrot bolts and a sling to a cool tunnel finish.
Nick Hancock
Nick Hancock