West End

Introduction

So far a handful of good quality routes have been put up at West End with more to come. The general ease of access and pleasant surrounds makes it a good alternative to climbing at killiecrankie. There is also some decent bouldering found between the main cliffs and the water.

Bandit wall

Bandit

★★30m22

Stylish climbing with lots of mini cruxes. Gear and 3 bolts.

Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades March 2024

Bandit pitch 2

★20m23

The roof crack that looks sizeable from the ground but turns out to be a bit short unfortunately and just barely independent. Still good though!

Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades Feb 2026

The Sausage Accountant

★30m25

Lovely rock. Up bandit to first bolt where you make an unlikely traverse left to the arete and another bolt. Up the arete via some gear in the seam.

Simon Bischoff March 2024

The Sausage Accountant direct

★★30m26

Straight up the blunt arete.

S. Bischoff May 2024

Shkalooki corner and Rust Slab

Curving Arete

★★30m246Þ

The beautiful low angled arete. Fully bolted

Simon Bischoff 2023

Shkalooki corner

★★30m19

Bravely to first bolt, up face and into corner where some finger sized cams can be found. Continue easily up the corner (no gear) to a small stance. Continue up corner protected with bolts, a blue alien or equivalent comes in handy near the end.

Hannah Vasiliades and Simon Bischoff 2023

Slab Project

★★30m24?

Country Livin

★★30m27 R

Up to hollow flake, left and up blank slab. "I drink coffee in the moring, water during the day and red wine and night".
Gear in order -
0.3 Calamot
Thread
Black alien
Blue alien
Long sling around flake
0.4 Bd X4
Thread
Bolt
0.3 Camalot behind undercling.

Simon Bischoff June 2024

Achilles Heel

★★60m26 A0

1.35m 22 In the centre of the cliff is a massive undercut R facing flake line. About 20 m R of this, climb the cool L facing flake with hidden good gear to a short traverse R. Pull up to a hanging flake, then crank over the roof on brilliant locks to a groove. Exit R past two bolts to a DBB on the spacious ledge.2.10m 23 Bridge up the steep blank corner past bolts and traverse awkwardly R to a ledge below the massive roof and DBB.3.15m 26 A0 Use the high anchor bolt to start up the juggy wall leading to the massive bomb bay chimney through the roof. Stem wildly out to the lip and crank up L to DBB above. All bolts for P2 & 3.

Nick & Heather Hancock 2020

Castle Crag

★A1+23

Tape a 0.75 Camalot to a long stick and stuff it blindly into the crack. Hand over had up the rope to gain crack. Don’t let this put you off, its much more fun that it sounds. Climb left on horizontal crack. Rap of small tree.

Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell & Toby Story Dec 2002

NE River

5-20 min
am and pm
Granite

Introduction

Scattered fine grained granite boulders on the headland with mostly easy problems. Approach with a sense of exploration, they don’t really warrant cataloguing. Rock hopping west towards Palana has few opportunities until a 7 m high wall is encountered with a striking thin seam ( see Sisters below)..

Camping

NE River is a Parks camp ground in a stunning location. Great surfing, kayaking and fishing.

Sisters

★★7m25

The tips seam up the small cliff facing the Sisters channel. Rock hop from the camping area for about 20 min or take the gated dirt road that is opposite the lower camping entrance for 15 minutes until a track leads to the foreshore, the climb is just to the west. A V5 highball or lead on C3s and RPs. Red C3 and small wires can create an anchor.

V Wills, D Gray, 2022

Roydon Island

Access

Access via boat is fairly straight forward on a calm day.

Concussion crack

★10m16

The obvious crack found on the North side of the island

Hannah Vasiliades and Simon Bischoff march 2024

The following routes are found on the South-Western side of the island

Flapper

★15m18

Lovely steep climbing with excellent rock and gear.

Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades March 2024

Sattelite crack

★15m17

Nice crack to ledge.

Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades March 2024