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Mt Strzelecki and surrounding peaks

14 Routes0510<1616-1920-2425+TradSport
    1.

    Trad project

    The right leaning crack which steepens around the arete and traverse into Arctic Zephyr via hard moves on a surprisingly solid flake. Attempted by Merry Schimanksi and Simon Bischoff. Probably around 25.

    2.

    Arctic Zephyr

    ★★★30m24

    Absolutely Spellbinding corner into a bombay chimney which will leave you speechless. The rock is fantastic but sharp as is normal for the area. This is a truly classic pitch.

    Wayne Maher and Iaun Sedgeman 1983/84 FFA John Fischer 2015

    3.

    Circus Dreams

    ★★55m2521Þ
    10 m right of Arctic Zephyr, fully bolted. Very unique, unusual and sustained climbing that lives up to the route name.Can be done in one or two pitches. When done in one pitch, bring seven extendables to avoid rope drag.1.25m 24, 9 bolts to double bolt belay. Use extendables on second, third and fourth bolt to avoid rope drag. Climb up past second bolt to higher horizontal, then traverse and downclimb until able to gain the offwidth flare. Follow flaring crack to double bolt belay.2.30m 25, 11 bolts to double bolt belay. Keep following crack and seam until it peters out (crux), climb up new crack until it's possible to traverse left. Use extendables on the four bolts from the beginning of the traverse to avoid rope drag. Follow golden slab to ledge with double bolt belay.Descent: rap off with two 50m ropes. rope stretch will see you safely to the ground on the left (avoid little gully on the right).Topo shows first pitch and beginning of the second pitch up to about the crux. Not visible is the traverse and golden slab.

    Cleaned and bolted by John Fischer, FA Anna-Veronique L'hoest on 01.02.2018

    4.

    The Sound of One Hand Clapping

    ★★20m246Þ

    Nick Hancock & Toby Story Dec 2002

    5.

    Slab of Stubbies

    ★★20m224Þ

    Nick Hancock & Toby Story Dec 2002

    6.

    Into the Labyrinth

    ★★★50m2416Þ

    Sam Edwards & Garn Cooper Jan 1996

    7.

    Amputechture

    ★★★45m2718Þ

    An epic journey into the clouds. Start a few metres right from into the labyrinth. Powerful moves to good rest on small ledge. Straight off the ledge is the crux. Wonderful, technical climbing all the way to the top. Take 18 draws with at least 10 X 60cm extendable draws to reduce drag. Maybe appropriate to climb on double ropes if going ground up or it is easy enough to equip the route whilst rappelling down into the labyrinth to ensure minimal rope drag as the routes is quite wandery.

    Simon Bischoff 2016

    Mt Razorback

    8.

    The Impossible Dream

    ★★★45m22
    There is a significant amount of effort involved in the access, but is a great adventure if you're into bush bashing for half a day for two pitch routes.AccessThe first ascent team approached by Walking Northwest from the old farm house at the End of Big River Rd. It Is possible that the scrub was less thick during their approach due to a possible fire some 20 years earlier. Nearly thirty years on from their ascent the tea tree forest below razorback is ferocious and would take significantly longer than the two hours suggested in the route description found in ‘Climb northern Tasmania’. It's diabolical. Good luck.An alternative Access route can be found by following Cronleys Creek on the West Side of the mountain. Access the creek from the side of the road. Thrash up this for roughly a couple of hours until razorback can be seen on you right. Head up an over the ridge on the southern end of Razorback. Traverse along the bottom to the Northern end of the cliff where the obvious line can be seen. A small tent platform can be found near the base. Allow 3 to 4 hours.Double rack of Camelots from #0.3 to #3 and 4x #4 (A #5 could be handy if you’re not into that sort of thing) 2 x 60m ropes for rappel1.Grade 21 - Climb thin crack, which widens above small tree to double bolt belay for first ascent party. If you’re feeling bold back the anchor up and bring your second up. If not, back up the anchor and lower down retrieving all your gear from the small tree and above and pull back up the rope to anchor and continue climbing route as one pitch.2.Grade 22 - Continue up widening crack. Look in the thinner crack on the right for gear to save your larger gear. Climb to small alcove and rappel from chock stone backed up with the horn on side of alcove (dodgy).*Recommend taking a drill to replace bolts on pitch one and put in a proper rappel.

    FA James Mcintosh and Stuart Willis (alt). 12/86 (Aided at M2) FFA Simon Bischoff and Larissa Naismith New year’s day 2017

    Beak Peak

    9.

    Best Forgotten Art

    ★★★29

    Another stupendous line that is worth seeking out if you're into outrageous roof cracks.

    Requires a bit of route finding to get yourself to the summit of beak peak but once you have the track figured out it is possible to access the route within 50-60 minutes.

    Walk up the Strzelecki track for about 25 minutes until you see a wooden post in the ground on the left of the track with the letter D on it. This is a few minutes past a small creek with some big ferns around it, the creek is generally not flowing.

    Just above the sign post head into the bush towards Beak Peak. As of summer 2019 we had a faint track cut here with some markers that took you across the gully and to the left side base of asylum slabs.

    Follow the rim of the slab up the peak until the slab flattens out and your a hundred metres or so from the summit. Cut left towards the ocean across some bush and sidle around to roughly where the top of the beak is. From here scramble down the right side of the beak (towards Whitemark) To find some abseil anchors which takes you down to the platform next to the crack. On the first ascent we fixed a short line from here to the belay for the crack.

    The crack takes finger sized cams and wires at the start and quickly opens up to hand and fist sizes. Doubles or even triples of thin hand to fist size cams may be useful for working out the moves. A #5 Camalot was used on the FA to protect the head wall. There is a single bolt at the top of the crack that can be used to belay once backed up with a #4 or #5 cam.

    All gear was placed on lead on the FA.

    Logan Barber and Simon Bischoff with help from Merry Schimanski 2019

    lovitts Hill

    14 Routes0510<1616-1920-2425+TradSport
    • Walk30 mins

    Introduction

    Large slab capped with a huge roof above Trousers point beach

    DSC07272.jpg1413121011
    10.

    Lycanthropy

    ★28m267Þ

    Tricky friction slab following the seam to a rest then substantially easier to the anchor.

    Simon Bischoff Feb 2024

    11.

    Paranormal Sex Wardrobe (project)

    27+
    1.(27) As for Lycanthropy2. (22) 20mStraight up from anchor via two bolts, at the second bolts veer left out of the water streak and then back right at the third bolt, continue straight up and into crack (good wires and cams). DBB on ledge.3. (18) 15m1 bolts. Rising traverse across the slab to small foot ledge and DBB.4.(project) The crazy roof. All gear.

    Simon Bischoff

    12.

    Disco In Furneaux

    ★146m20

    Mike Law and Steve Howden 29.12.96

    13.

    Stinky corner

    30m15

    The top half is significantly better than it looks.

    Simon Bischoff and Hannah Vasiliades January 2024

    14.

    Wake in fright

    ★★30m247Þ

    Fully bolted slab, feels 4 grades easier on a top rope.

    Simon Bischoff January 2024