Cave Rock
Introduction
Steep face and roof climbing
Approach: Updated March '24. DO NOT use old access for accessing Cave Rock. We are not permitted to use the paddocks to take short cuts, and the old stile is no more. Please adhere to new access described below.
From the carpark - follow the rough vehicle track to the old quarry junction and continue straight. As the vehicle track veers L towards Falcon Crag/The Farside etc instead swing R to hug the fence line around to a grove of blackwood trees + a signposted track junction. From here head left up the hill, following flagging tape to the base of the cliff.· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Cave Rock
The major cliff that rises out of a strange hole in the hillside· From: theCrag
Hang start on roof lip, move up through powerful lay back moves and jugs to easy top. Be careful of debris.
From: theCrag
Outrageous horizontal roof on the left hand end of the cliff.
Kim Robinson, 2001 · From: theCrag
Shares the first 4 bolts of Sacred Stone, then veers left to pull through roof
Gerry Narkowicz, 2000 · From: theCrag
Climbs the slabby left arete, before a steep and powerful rightwards traverse to a balancy rock onto the slab. Sensational.
Gerry Narkowicz, 1999 · From: theCrag
R side of the undercut arete, without using block. Finish up Sacred Stone
P. Oxley · From: theCrag
Central overhanging shallow corner that joins Sacred Stone at half height. Starts off the rock pile in the middle of the wall. Stick clip, step left, and boulder up 3 bolts, before a welcome rest and 4th bolt. Then head up and left and finish as for Sacred Stone.
Gerry Narkowicz, 2000 · From: theCrag
Central line up the steep face, finish via Shadows and Light
Mark Polinski, 2012 · From: theCrag
Start up Nearly Home, then follow diagonal weakness to roof. Pull through this and continue easily to the top. Rethread at ring on 4th bolt to clean
Mark Rewi, 2000 · From: theCrag
The rightmost route trends left past a lot of slopey holds, then punches through a weakness in the roof. Pumpy and akward.
Mark Rewi, 1999 · From: theCrag
The Lion's Den
Small craglet located around to the left of Cave Rock with some ok warm-ups· From: theCrag
Sunset Ridge
A minor crag located on the hill above the paddocks. Mostly slabby climbing following seams, with morning shade + some tree cover in the afternoon. Great sunsets over the river!
A new cliff featuring moderate grades. As with all crags at Hillwood, but especially relevant at newer areas - helmets are highly recommended!! Grade opinions welcome..
Approach: From the carpark, follow signs/tracks as for Cave Rock. At the top left corner of the paddock, at a signposted junction - veer directly uphill edging the the vegetation line. Locate green tapes/cairns and contour left along the slopes to the base of the main cliff.· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Short route on far L featuring twin seams. DBB
Chris Monaghan, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Left most line of fixed hangers. Up initial crack + continue to the top via the slabby left arete. Shares anchors (TBB) with next few routes to the right.
Hannah Mulligan, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Central line of fixed hangers up the middle of the wall. Slabby climbing up face + thin seam. Shares anchors + final 2 bolts with SSB.
Thomas Young, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Link-Up. Contrived variant start to SSB following the slabby RH lay-away crack. Single U-bolt, linking in with SSB at its 3rd fixed-hanger. Continue to the top.
From: theCrag
RH line of fixed hangers - up shallow corner feature. Links into the top of DOOM and shares the same anchor.
Will Grubert, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag
Up slabs + LHS of rooflet on R side of the main wall. Cruxy start - needing care to reach 2nd bolt. Stick clip a long draw if needed
Tam Scott, Apr 2024 · From: theCrag