Matto Grosso
5 minutes
Introduction
Hillwood’s shortest approach, offering routes from slabby to slightly overhanging at a range of grades.
Access
Follow the track from the car park for 100m before turning left and following the signs up the hill. Taking the track junction right will bring you to the Chessboard, or continue down into the gully for the other walls.
Golgotha
The impressive wall on the left side of the gully
Golgotha LHS
Aka Mowbray Curry House is Closed on Sundays.
Climbs the slab left of the arete to the easy but committing roof.
Fraser, Mac Labine-Romain & Meg Langridge, 22 December 2024
Climbs the face on the far left of the cliff, passing the right side of the roof.
Starts up the brown section of wall right of Good Friday before finishing to the same anchors
Links the start of Bible Black into the end of Resurrection Sunday.
The Dungeon
The series of west-facing rock formations situated along the right-hand side of the prominent gully.
Jugs 'R' Us Buttress
Starts on the far left follows a rising traverse rightwards on good holds.
Gerry Narkowicz
Starts right of Jugs 'R' Us and finishes up the face at the left anchors.
Starts up the right-hand prow and finishes as for Jugs 'R' Us.
Climbs Up There Cazaly to the third bolt then launches right across the overhanging wall.
On the next buttress over from Jugs 'R' Us. Climbs the steep face left of the big crack for 2 bolts before finishing up the arete.
The short slab right of the big crack.
Climbs the steep face starting 1.5m right of the dead eucalyptus stump, finishing at the Waiting for Breakfast anchors.
Line of bolts left of the arete,
Starts right of the arete.
The next route right of the arete
Thin climbing on crimps and slopers leads to a dyno. Excellent.
The hand crack that separates Dr Pepper and Bozon
Technical climbing to the third bolt eases off to a pumpy, juggy finish.
Takes the central line up the wall right of Bozon.
Furthest route right on the Bozon wall.