thesarvo

The Far Side

12 Routes0510<1616-1920-2425+TradSport
  • Walk5-10 minutes
  • SunMixed sun and shade
  • RockBasalt face climbing between 10-30m featuring cool jugs, slopers, in-cuts and side-pulls. The cliff angle varies from slightly under vertical, to very overhanging

The Far Side

The crag is situated on the far side of Falcon Crag, hence the name. The Far Side is a 30 metre high slab. There is a ‘big crag’ feel about it. A few of the climbs lead to the ridge top and provide a feeling ‘you have arrived on the top.’ The summit ridge is a great place to end a climb, relax for a while, enjoy the view and then scramble back down for another climb. The names of the climbs come from Gary Larson’s Far Side cartoons. At the base of most climbs is a small name tag.
Caution - this crag leans back, it is a slab. Therefore rocks and blocks, which would normally plummet to the ground as soon as they become detached, remain, leaning back against the main face. The obvious, dangerous ones have been levered off, but some large secure looking ones have been left. Use your own judgement! It is a ‘new’ crag, holds will break off. Dirt and small rocks seem to collect from nowhere on the ledges. Wear a helmet.
These first routes were prepared and bolted by Bill Baxter, with help from Howard Smith, John Gale, Ben Thorp, Fly-fisher Baz and Patrice Baxter. Extra thanks to Baz for making the bolts and Mike Fox for lending his drill. If there are any comments about the grading; SMS Bill 0467 624 874.
Peregrine rules apply. Please stay away between August and December.

Far Side 3.png

The Dairy

Halfway between Silvereye Saddle and Far Side main area.

1.

Ethel the Cow

★15m13Þ ↓

A good introduction to the Far Side’s style of climbing.

B. Baxter, Jan 2015.

Crash Test Dummies Wall

A short (10m) steep wall at the start of the main Far Side area. At present it sports 3 climbs.

2.

Crash

★★10m19Þ ↓

The left hand crack line. For the full two star value, don’t be tempted to traverse out left near the top

B. Baxter, Feb 2015

3.

Test

★10m18Þ ↓

Next crack line up the middle.

B. Baxter, Feb 2015

4.

Dummies

10m16Þ ↓

The right-hand edge

Bill Baxter, Feb 2015

Far Side main area

5.

Bluebird of Happiness

★25m18Þ ↓

Takes a direct line up to an overlap at 20m (17, DBB). Either lower off or abseil from here. Alternatively, climb on through the overlap above the slab (5m, 18, DBB).

B. Baxter, Jan 2015.

6.

Chicken of Despair

★22m17Þ ↓

B. Baxter, Jan 2015.

7.

Centipede Parking

★30m14Þ ↓
1.15m 14 Straight up. DBB.2a.15m 14 Up right, then straight up through the overlaps. DBB.2b.15m 15 Alternatively, from the 3rd bolt on pitch 2, traverse left to the wide crack. DBB.

B. Baxter, Jan 2015.

8.

Parakeet Furniture

3517Þ ↓
Start as for Centipede Parking. Follow the right trending line of bolts.1.20m 17 Apart from one crux move at the 4th bolt, it's a grade 10 romp.2.15m 14 Left, then up to join pitch 2 of CP through the overlaps.(Rap: 58m)

B. & P. Baxter, H. Smith, April 2015

9.

Parakeet Furniture Direct

★30m18Þ

Unknown FA details. Direct start to PF, joining at obvious ledge via line of FH's.

From: theCrag

10.

Wombat Ballet

12m16Þ ↓


The thin crack 8m right of Centipede Parking. Alternative easier start up corner on the right.

B. Baxter, J. Donohoe, Z Jordan, April 2017

11.

Lemmings on Vacation

★★15m14Þ ↓

10m right of Centipede Parking. A generously bolted crack!
Easy to start, followed by an interesting crack section and ending with a couple of classy face moves.

B. Baxter, Mar 2015

12.

It’s Life Jim

★20m21Þ ↓

Starts 5m right of Lemmings on Vacation.

J. Donohoe, B. Baxter, Z. Jordan, April 2017

Main Area 04-15.0004.jpg