Falcon Crag
Introduction
Some excellent climbs in a rarely visited area. Big time adventure feel for an extra few minutes of walking.
Avoid climbing here between Aug - Nov due to the Peregrine Falcon nesting season.
Bolt refresh of Falcon Crag partly complete (April '24). Peregrine Shelf has been fully rebolted; The Stronghold has had trad bits retrobolted, and the old bolts are safe but might have some rusty hangers; other crags are an unknown quantity. Use your own judgement. Rebolting should be complete within 12 months. Use your own judgement
Approach: Updated March '24. From the carpark - follow the rough vehicle track to the old quarry junction. Instead of turning left to Matto Grosso etc, conitnue straight to keep following the vehicle track straight and then left. At the signposted track junction - continue past Fiery Furnace cliff to another signposted junction. L contours along the base of Falcon Crag, R heads up and over to The Far Side.
To reach any climbs on the extreme L of Falcon Crag, continue along the contour track until you can exit the forest, out onto the scree field - and make your way across from there (more remote sector).· From: theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
Topo: theCrag contributors, CC BY-NC-SA 3.0, theCrag
The Eyrie
Peregrine Shelf
From the Stronghold - exit the forest out into the boulder field. Continue along until you can easily return back to the cliff line + forest cover.· From: theCrag
Starts on the little elevated belay platform on the left end of the wall.
From: theCrag
The steep seam. Starts just above a big flake poking out of the ground. Sustained.
From: theCrag
The Stronghold
Following the Falcon Crag Track from Fiery Furnace - cross scree before entering darker forest. These climbs all start in the tree cover, right by an exit out onto the boulder field.· From: theCrag
Take a wire or small cam to protect the first move, or simply stick clip.
From: theCrag
Raptor Heights
The first sizable craglet you come to if approaching along the Falcon Crag Track from Fiery Furnace. Branch off R just before entering the forest. Shady amphitheatre with a handful of shorter routes. Update March '25 - rebolting currently in progress.· From: theCrag
The steep face + arete on LHS of amphitheatre with FH's. Re-bolted '25. DBB
From: theCrag
On south facing wall R of bolted arete. x2 bolts to trad crack. No anchor.
From: theCrag
The Fiery Furnace
Easier to access than the other craglets, these routes are seen on the right on the walk over the hill to The Far Side. Full rebolt April 2024.· From: theCrag