Duck Reach

The thin crack on the bottom level on the right.

On the downstream side is a small roof with a single eye-bolt beneath it. Up this to the crack above.

The slightly off-width corner 5m right of Sinistra.

The left hand crack and corner.

Two bolts up the right hand face to the thin crack. The huge block on the top at the left is loose so watch out!

The off-width/chimney 3m right of Libido.

The arete with 2 eye-bolts.

The thin crack round the corner from Break On Through. Up to horizontal break then up the left trending diagonal to join the previous climb.

The left hand arete with 4 or 5 eye-bolts.

Chimney R of Powerhouse.

3 eye-bolts to the crack.

Start R of Joy of Specs at block. Climb crack, then left to join Joy.

Offwidth.

Offwidth just left of sitting bull. Sharing the same finish.

Bridge to hand crack.

The blunt arete. Thuggish moves at the bottom with an insecure rock-over at the top

The thin seam with 3U bolts. Goes very pleasantly at 22 pulling on the final draw (originally had a bolted on artificial hold here). Alternately goes all free in the thin seam at 27.

The off-width crack.

Thin crack splitting the face with a rusty old piton buried deep in the crack at about 2/3 height.

The crack on the right of Short and Sweet which makes a nice route by continuing up to the main wall and then traversing right 3m on the horizontal break to join the widening crack past the blackberry.

Starting around the corner from these routes on a small platform go up the thin twin cracks to the slab and then up to the peapod. Up the crack system above this to 2 eye-bolts and then up to DBB. A commiting direct finish can be done at 24.

A bolted variant to the classic Deathrow (22) on Skidrow buttress. Same start on natural gear, then up the overhanging face via a 3 bolt boulder problem, then finish up the last 2 bolts of Deathrow taking in the crux of that route as well.

The left trending diagonal link up. Start as for The Green Mile and link into the top of Deathrow.

The arête 5m R of Death Row. 5 bolts of thin face climbing to a crux dyno to the sloping ledge.

Upstream 40m from the last buttress is a hand crack that goes up to the next tier.The next climbs are on this tier.

The obvious hand crack on the left.

About 7m Left of Dagenham are two climbs with a U-bolt in them. This is the left most. Up past bolts, then tricky mantle to gain flake. Head left around the flake on gear. DBB.

The climb right of TGH. You can stick clip the bolt, although the first ascensionist didn't. Up to flake, then on to top. DBB.

Thin crack and face climb 2m left of the off-width crack which runs the whole height of the cliff.

The big wide corner.

At the far left of the buttress. Awkward start, climb up and bridge on small foot hold up until block. Crux move pulling though the block, continue in the crack above.

Bridge up the chimney formed by this buttress and the bottom tier of the last one and then step right on to the large block. Climb the finger crack to the overlap and then continue up the hand crack above. DBB.

Various extensions have been added to this climb. As it now stands it starts beneath the eye-bolt and avoiding the large block on the left continues up past three carrots to the arete and thin crack. One of the best climbs at the grade.

Start the climb 20m right of No Standing climb to the terrace at one-quarter height and then take the left hand jam crack to the top. DBB.

Chimney / crack, right up to the top of the summit boulder.

Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB. Some flexibility in the grade, with the crux getting into a position to make the second clip. More like 27 if this's pre-clipped but excellent either way.

Starts 20m up stream and around the corner from Free Parking. Climb the off hand width crack and corner to the tree. DBB. Then continue up the fist crack and then on to the pillar on top of the cliff.

5m right of Vamp is a black face with 3 carrot bolts.

A long abandoned Danny Ng project - recently revived after a scrub, and the addition of a couple of extra bolts and an anchor (located at the beginning of the blankness)…PS there’s no glory jug!!

Climb the detached pillar (stick clip recommended), and onto the face via x2 U’s and x2 carrots. DBB. The originally conceived finish can still be attempted (take a blue walnut, or a .4 camalot) to the SOTT anchor, and is an open project. Go for your life…

The climb with 4 carrots (which are difficult to clip if you don't have the right genetic predisposition) and a 2 or 2 1/2 friend.

The crack directly through the 2m roof. Yet to see a free ascent.

Climb the crack beneath the roof, yes there is a genuine roof in Launceston, and then take the left hand crack out past the piton to the thin crack and face above.

Climb up where the slice of cake was.

The left hand hand-crack.

You guessed it, the right hand crack.

TR problem R of Rags of Comfort + L of the chimney. V2/3 boulder into easier face climbing. The large flake sounds dubious, but hasn’t come off yet. DBB

Right hand side of detached pillar - #3 cams to start.

A good practice route for aspiring aid climbers. The original aid version of Seize the Day. Climbs the thin seam directly up the middle of the face on mostly small wires and micro SLCDs. Originally written up as M1 in Bob McMahon's South Esk guide. Probably considerably harder (about C2+) if using clean gear only and ignoring the bolts. Note that nailing on what is now one of the gorge's most classic hard free climbs will probably result in you and your hammer getting evicted from the state and chased back into the 1960's where you belong.

A striking line, and a contender for the best route of its style in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equipped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent. Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

The direct start to Seize the Day past one additional fixed hanger. The grade is unashamedly reach dependent - it will feel much harder if you're not tall. Further, the first bolt was placed to dovetail with what was at the time a fully bolted line above. It's now not clear if this can be led ground-up.

The surprisingly delightful and enjoyable chimney.

Start as for Seize the Day/Long Knife up the chimney but break right at about 8m and climb the bolted blunt arête of the large hanging pillar. The upper half is one of the best positions in the gorge. Currently, the direct start is a 32 or 33 project.

The direct start to Road to War up the arete. A great arete climb with three distinct boulder problem cruxes.

Open project? Line of FH’s R of Forgotten Sword

Line on fixed hangers.

On the front of the block that forms the Long Knife chimney is an off-width. DBB.

Hand crack to off-width.

Amen. The thin crack on the right.

On the upper tier, downstream of the old car stuck up in the cliff. Rap in from DBB above, using the line as a belay anchor.

The left most line, a worthwhile descent route.

The corner right of Possum Run with one FH. Looks like a corner but climbs like an off-width. A great climb to put your gym junkie mates on and watch them burn rubber and finger tips.

The thin crack line running up the face 5m right of Possum Run.

The thin crack around the corner from Back in Black.

The dual crack system in the corner.

Climb up on to ledge and then up crack and slightly overhanging corner.

Nice hand jamming.

Delicate face climbing up a thin crack line in the corner. Quite excellent.

Climb the crack in the corner 15m upstream from the last wall.

5m on from the Proctologist is a thin crack climb this to a ledge and then up corner to exit out left under small roofs.

Arete to R.

Corner round from Jonestown Flood.

Fused corner with tree.

Offwidth past roofs.

Bolted arete directly underneath furthest upstream powerline.

Finger crack on LHS of lower tier.

Thin seam into chimney, which needs a bit of a clean.

On far LHS of top left cliff, with overhanging block up high. Single bolt anchor

Bolted face and arete on RHS of top left cliff. No anchor.

The pleasant looking corner cracks. Uphill of the bolted routes.

Left line of bolts up black face.

Traverse R from previous route to arete and up.

Obvious left trending crack line. Rap from sling around chockstones.

Located upstream and uphill from the main Petrebond Crags. Up blocky chimney on R into proud corner.

Upstream again, near river level. The tall bolted face and arete with a ledge at half height. DBB

Second crack from the L

Crack with potentially loose block

Crack L of bolted arete. Part way up, traverse R into flake

The short bolted arete just downstream of Kiwi Fruit Jam Gully. No anchor

On the lower cliffs near river level. The left line of the sharp recessed pillar.

The right line.

The jam corner just downhill of the previous two routes. Closest to the river and the first you’ll reach if approaching that way.

The nice looking widening finger crack. Located 2 minutes up the gully on the upstream wall.

Left of HoG. Start in chimney, and left onto bolted face. Tree belay.

The brilliant double arete on the left end of the yellow face. DBB

Bridge/layaway up the yellow face/arete using the R block. At the horizontal rail (after clipping the 3rd bolt) - step out L and up the main wall. Avoid veering into the grovel chimney higher up for full value. Access via rap or a scramble down upstream terraces. DBB.

Fine crack and arete climbing on the small buttress facing the river 50m downstream from The Sting.

Climb the thin twin cracks 4m right of Louis the King for 3m then slightly right before moving back left to the main hand crack.

10m upstream from Mac The Finger is a black corner with a crack on both sides. Climb either or both of these.

A fine crack through a bulge.

The left trending flake/undercling that leads to the straight crack above.

An excellent climb and probably Mick Lings most lasting contribution. Across the gully/chimney from the previous climbs is a 25m pillar split by an off-width at the top. Climb from the base of this to the roof and out left to stand on the ledge and clip the fixed hanger. Up a thin crack with good RPs past and then past an eye-bolt to a horizontal break. Briefly up off-width before escaping out left in diagonal jamb crack. DBB.

Start up The Sting and clip the first bolt then head right up past 4 carrots. A bit crumbly and contrived. Not one of Danny's best efforts. Same DBB as The Sting.

Climb the corner 10m upstream from The Sting and then continue up the hand crack above. DBB.