Doctors Rocks
5
Morning
Volcanic
Acknowledgement
By Moses Bassett and Ben Young
Introduction
Warning-These climbs are all quite new, lose in spots and don't get much traffic so helmets are highly recommended.
Local people have been climbing and fishing from the rocks at Doctors rocks forever and there is quite a good selection of bouldering to be had. In an attempt to get as much out of the area as possible a few short sport routes have been added. There is never going to be any mega classics but if you are in the area and want to get on a rope they are worth a go. The climbing is mainly vertical to less than, face climbing.
There is currently 7 bolted routes and we are in the process of taking photos and writing them up.
History
Bolting was begun in early 2017 by Ben Young and Moses Bassett.
Access
Doctors Rocks is well signposted and is just before the first turn-off to Wynyard if coming from Burnie. Access is easiest walking around the headland from the Burnie side.There is a gate to cross over the train track about 50m closer to Wynyard from the gravel parking area. Follow the well worn path and you will first pass the Mordor bouldering area and after scrambling over a boulder up against the headland you will be at Goodies Buttress. Continue your way around the headland and you will find the other three.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (doctorsrocks@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
Goodies Buttress
These three climbs end at the DDB on the block above.
The line of bolts furthest left.
Ben Young & Moses Bassett
The center line of bolts
Ben Young & Moses Bassett
The right line of 3 bolts with a cam at the top.
Ben Young and Moses Bassett
From Goodies scramble in the Wynyard direction and the next climb is on the two stacked boulders.
Start in the hole below the bolts to get the most out of this climb. Bold move getting to the second boulder and fairly thin clipping. 4 Bolts to DBB. At the time of writing the jugs above the DBB are quite lose.
So far this route has been climbed by staying left of the bolts at the start for some fun 3D climbing between the two boulders. Once towards the top of the left boulder, step right and go up the face, don't top out. It's a bit contrived but quite fun.
Ben Young and Moses Bassett
The next two climbs are further around on a small wall that is part of the main core not on boulders. There is a small dirty scramble to the bottom of them and it's probably easiest to belay from the bottom of this.
Follow the line of bolt's straight up to DDB.
Ben Young and Moses Bassett
Up the right side, easy climbing but the bolt's are a bit more spread out then the rest in the area.
Ben Young and Moses Bassett