Sisters Beach
10 min
Mixed sun and shade
15m steep quartzite
Acknowledgement
by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets 6. Updates by Tony McKenny and Chris Arvier, with acknowledgements to previous work by John Fisher.
Introduction
The main cliffs at Sisters Beach at the east end of the Rocky Cape National Park are well worth visiting. They represent the most important climbing location is NW Tasmanian for locals in that area.
The cliff area is small but the quality of the quartzite rock and routes is superb. There are two main cliffs, close together but quite different in character and in the style of climbing. The north facing Fly Buttress is short, solid and bristling with horizontal roofs, while the Corruption Wall on the other side of Breakneck Point is formed by gently overhanging walls. The proximity to the sea does also mean that the smooth quartzite can get more than a little slippery, adding a further charge of excitement to the climbing. The nearby beach, however, is excellent - a good diversion from cranking when your tips are raw or your ego in danger of being compromised. The sport climbs were fully rebolted with funding and advice from the CCT in January 2018.
History
Briefly, the history of climbing here began when locals Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Tony McKenny cleaned up most of the traditional lines, with Deka demonstrating the art of flying from Super Fly in particular. This route is possibly one of the biggest adrenalin charges for its grade in the state and is a must do for every visitor. Other contributors included Mick Ling, Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Hobartian Sam Edwards and interstate visitor Robert Staszewski. In the early nineties John Fisher scruffed the scene and produced a series of steep, hard and 'interestingly' named sports climbs on Corruption Wall.
The anchors placed by John became badly corroded within a year of so of their placement and had to be replaced. Unfortunately, the original replacement U bolts were not installed correctly which led to some incidents of bolt failure. All suspect U bolts were removed in Jan 2018 and the sport climbs were fully rebolted with the support of the CCT. Many of the trad climbs previously had suspect anchors, these have been removed but not replaced yet (plenty of options for trad belays).
Access
From the Sisters Beach township drive eastwards along the dirt road that runs parallel to the beach. This ends after about 1.5 km at a parking area (GPS SIS000). Start by following the signposted track for about 100m, then bear off to the L where a rough track leads around towards the cliffs (about 500m). The first cliff, Fly Buttress, faces out to sea while Corruption Wall, out of sight on the other side of the spur is running down to Breakneck Point, is best reached via a small notch, the Keyhole, on the R about 50m before Fly Buttress. Scramble through (with difficulty!) and bear L and down to the end of the cliff.
Camping
There is no camping at Sisters Beach. The campground at Boat Harbour is quite good but about 10 km away.
Crag Steward
Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (sistersbeachrockycape@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
GPS
Carpark Buttress
This crag is on the hillside above the carpark and to the R of the walking track.
Carpark Buttress
Line just L of the nose of the buttress. Strenuous.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 29 Apr 1981.
Fly Buttress
The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Tony McKenny and Nick Williams in the late seventies. The notable exceptions are Robert Staszewski's ascent of Sunshine (23) and Sam Edwards' Wuss 'n' Boots (22). There is a somewhat dodgy looking abseil chain above Superfly, or just walk off easily to the left. Suspect U bolt DBBs removed Jan 2018.
Fly Buttress
Strenuous fist crack L of roof. A sandbag.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.
Climb Fly Blown then traverse R under the roof, finishing as for Try, Fly or Die (or wherever you please). Nice long traverse on good rock and gear.
Chris Arvier, Jake Hood
Just to the R, through the roof.
Sam Edwards.
Starts up Superfly, then goes L under roof. Superseded by Return Ticket.
Dennis Kearnes 1992.
Superfly to roof, then L line.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith.
The classic of the cliff. Up the crack below the middle of the big roof, then direct through roof on big jugs and heel hooks. DBB.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.
Another Superfly variant. Traverse R under roof.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.
Clip the carrot on Sunshine, then move up to roof and traverse L the entire length of the cliff, finishing as for Fly Blown.
Chris Arvier, Jake Hood.
Through roofs to R. Originally led on gear, but now sporting a carrot and a FH of unknown origin.
Robert Stazsewski, Tony McKenny.
Next crack, going L at top and finishing beside Sunshine.
Nick Williams and Tony McKenny (originally with one point of aid), FFA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 1980.
Broken wall R of main cliff.
Tony McKenny.
The dirty corner.
Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.
Crack to the R of Uncle.
Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.
The clean crack.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.
Short wall to the R and then over small overhang.
Tony McKenny.
Arête and wall R of Midge.
Neale Smith, Nick Williams.
The Keyhole
As you walk into the crag, you will emerge at a small patch of scree after about 5 mins. Walk up this and follow path to the Keyhole. It consists of a short ramp up to a large chock stone with a human-sized passage that lets you through to the east side of the crag. From there you take a L and emerge at Corruption Wall. There are two climbs on the R, just before you enter the Keyhole.
The climb takes the obvious overhanging arête (approx 10m high) on the block to your R as you walk up the ramp to the Keyhole. Natural gear (take a variety of cams - the pro is surprisingly bomber).
Andrew Chang, Andrew Arnold
Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the ridge to Corruption Wall.
Neale Smith, Mick Ling, Oct 1982. Retro bolts (c2005) removed in 2015.
Seaside Buttress
The small buttress in front of Fly Buttress by the sea, split by a deep gully. Approach by walking down to the water from the small patch of scree just before Fly Buttress. Follow the coast to the gully, the climbs are on the steep walls either side.
Wall L of gully.
Tony McKenny, Mick Ling.
Corner on west side of buttress.
Robert Hamilton, Fred Dutton.
Mick Ling.
Crack splitting wall R of large gully and on the front of the buttress.
Robert Staszewski, Tony McKenny 1981.
On western face of buttress.
Nic Deka, Bruce Cameron, Neale Smith.
Next route R.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton, Apr 1982.
Easy ramp on RH side of buttress.
Robert Hamilton, Nic Deka, Neale Smith 12 Apr 1982.
Corruption Wall
This was briefly a centre for Tasmanian sport climbing (yeah, I know, doesn't say much does it?). The routes added by John Fisher are brilliant - and user friendly too. The sport routes were fully rebolted in Jan 2018, all with DBBs at the top. You can also walk off down a steep gully to the R (N) of the cliff, by "Hundstage", but walk off via this route is discouraged to avoid erosion at the base of dog wall.
Corruption Wall
- ★★33.The Winking Sausage24
- ★★★34.Rhythm Rude Girl22
- ★35.La Petite Mort18
- ★★36.Harzweg18
- 37.Happy Hooker15
- ★★38.Sachsenweg17
- ★★★39.Lazy Lob19
- ★★40.The Crimson Tipped Crumpet Plunger25
- ★41.Nubile Nymph15
- ★★42.Variant of Nubile Nymph16
- ★★43.The Sausage Boys17
- ★★44.Doggy Style19
- 45.Gornuphere14
- ★★46.Puberty Rites14
- ★★47.Abendweg16
- 48.The Slit14
- ★★49.Condom Power15
About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 17 Apr 1982. Retrobolts removed Jan 2018.
From an ascending grassy ramp, follow a clean cut lay-back crack. Bear R at the top.
Robert Hamilton.
The chimney.
Tony McKenny.
Sustained overhanging crack up wall to R of Fourplay. A local test piece.
Nic Deka, Neale Smith 1987.
Climb the steep wall just right of Roll on Responsibility, on good holds.
Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.
Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top.
John Fisher, 1992.
The line left of RRG. Over the bulges on mostly positive holds, trending left and up after 3rd bolt. Another excellent pumper.
John Fisher, 1992.
One of life's essential experiences. Follow the incipient seam to the top. Yes this one is pumpy too.
John Fisher, 1992.
Climbs the overhanging crack in the corner. Take care with securing the last runner at the lip! nb: name changed in 2025 after FA party and community consultation.
Tony McKenny (late 1970s)
Climb the crack off "Happy Hooker" to the small roof and straight up.
Henry Lindner, 2018
Follow the thin crack in the wall right of The Rapist then traverse right to join the top crack of Nubile Nymph.
Mick Ling.
Climb to first bolt two metres left of "Lazy Lob" and then straight up.
Henry Lindner, 2018
Steep, cranky and excellent. Solo easily up the broken corner to the first bolt then launch up the steep wall. Catch a brief rest on the slab before an exciting finish on good holds up the rounded arete.
John Fisher, 1992.
Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep.
John Fisher, 1992
Lay-back the clean-cut crack.
N.Williams.
Climb the excellent crack of "Nubile Nymph" and then straight up the wall (two bolts) to the chain.
Henry Lindner 2019
Start 2 meter right of "Nubile Nymph" first meter easy climb, the top looks difficult.
Henry Lindner 2019
3 meter right of "Nubile Nymph", climb the easy crack up to the arret passing 3 bolts.
Henry Lindner 2019
The easy line.
Climb the corner. An excellent and varied pitch. (lower off from "Abendweg")
N.Williams.
Start 2 meter right of the „Puberty Rites“ Climb the bolted line straight up to the belay.
Henry Lindner, 2018
The right wall, with many horizontal joints, is split by a deep groove. Follow this to the top.
Neale Smith.
Great climbing on the wall L of the Dog Wall. Now an excellent beginners clip-up.
Tony McKenny. Retro-bolted by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking.
Dog Wall
The climbs on Dog Wall are currently closed pending Aboriginal Heritage assessment. Foot traffic past the base of this wall is also to be avoided.
Independent, and just right of, the arête.
John Fisher, Dec 1993.
Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it.
John Fisher, 1992.
The RH line. Another steep test-piece from Dr Fisher.
John Fisher, 1992.
Next right of "The Butchers Dog" climb the arête passing 5 bolts to the belay.
Henry Lindner 2019
Eastern Cove
Two lines have been added on the eastern cliffs, on the other side of the valley from Corruption Wall, and there is probably scope for more in the area if you are willing to walk.
Steep crack and small roof on the largest face of this cliff.
Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.
Slab then wall to R.
Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.
West End
From the west end of Sisters Beach, scramble north west from the boat ramp for ten minutes, passing some slabby smooth sections, to a squat semi-detached pinnacle about 20 metres high, with a very overhanging northwest face.
Climb steeply on great holds and solid rock to a rest beneath a horizontal roof. Swing out madly to a flared jam and up to a DBB on the very lip of the roof. 6 bolts.
Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.
Lee-Archer Cave
this area is closed pending heritage assessment.
Take the track from the carpark at the west end of Sisters Beach, signposted to Lee-Archer Cave and Anniversary Bay
This climb is closed pending heritage assessment.
Starting just to the R of the cave, climb to the bush at about 5m. Continue directly up the centre of the slightly overhung, diamond shaped face on okay pro in less than okay rock. A sloping ramp in an exposed position leads rather scarily to a bush at top.
M. and H. Jackson, Dec 1992.