thesarvo

Marrawah

7 Routes05<1616-1920-2425+TradSport
  • WalkA few minutes
  • SunLate Afternoon
  • RockCoastal quartzite up to 20m high

Acknowledgement

by Nick Hancock

Introduction

These climbs are closed pending Aboriginal Heritage Assessment. Do not climb here.

Access

From Marrawah head 4 km south west, first on the C213 then the C214, Turn right onto West Point Road. Follow this another 4 km, until you reach the first substantial piece of rock a hundred meters off to the right (about 1 km before you reach Lighthouse Beach) Head through a thin band of moderate scrub by the side of the road, and then easily to the orange streaked south west face. The slightly overhanging cliff is composed of perfect quartzite, reminiscent of the Arapiles

GPS

The first three climbs described are on the shorter secondary wall located around to the left of the main face. Beware of loose rock.

1.

The Ugly Duckling

12m14

Locate secondary wall around to the left of the main face. Climb the blunt end arête directly above low ledge at its right most extremity. Take a large sling for belay.

N Morgan & E Budarick, Oct 2015

2.

El Pato

8m16

About 6m right of the Ugly Duckling, cracks midway up the cliff form an obvious < shape. Climb directly over this feature towards its left end.

Ben French & Nicole Ee, Jan 2021

3.

Physical Distancing

★12m17

Start 5m right of El Pato under the lowest point of the roof. Climb to the roof, place some small gear and follow the line diagonally left and up. Surprisingly good.

Ben French & Nicole Ee

The following climbs are located on the main face.

4.

Pepileptic Cat

★15m18

Going leftwards from FotC is an orange wall that is somewhat bald of grips. This route starts left of that where the rock is grey and more holds are present (about 10m left of FotC; directly below a point where the cracks mid-way up the cliff form a ^-shape). Climb up for 5m then rightwards a meter or two then up through the bulge and headwall above (where the rock is whitest). Steep but on big holds, solid jams, and good gear; especially cams in the horizontals.

Roger & James Parkyn,

7.

Bowie's in Space

★20m17

RIP Bowie. Start about 8m right of The Distant Future, below the small grassy ledge. Follow diagonal cracks and slab to reach the left side of the orange scoop. Some steep moves up and left lead to the DBB of The Distant Future.

Ben French & Gian Luca Vanzetta,

8.

Part Time Model

★18m16

Start about 10m right of TDF and take a direct line that goes to the right of the grassy ledge at 7m and to the left of the scrubby ledge at 10m. Reasonable gear using a standard rack (esp. cams in horizontals).

Roger & James Parkyn

9.

Hurt Feelings

15m15

Pretty worthless. Start about 5m right of Part Time Model at a banksia bush. Climb the slab above on thin gear, trending slightly left to gain the vegetated ledge. Continue up weakness above.

Ben French & Nicole Ee