Apsley Edge
20 min
Sandstone up to 30m high
Acknowledgement
Based on the original guide by Peter Jackson, published for the CCT in 1982.
Introduction
A small south facing row of sandstone buttresses situated north of Apsley and south west of Jericho. The setting is picturesque above a bracken covered hillside and topped by open forest with sculptural boulders behind. The routes vary in length from 10 to 25m.
The rock is soft, but not always friable. Some small holds are doubtful and the southerly aspect has resulted in lichenous faces requiring lengthy cleaning of new routes. Trad placements in wider cracks are generally sound. Small crevices afford RP placements but their ultimate holding power must be assessed against the softness of the rock. Bolts have been used for protection on some climbs, to counter this problem.
History
Discovered and conceived as a possibility by Noel Ward in 1981. He made one reconnaissance and then returned with Bob De Cesare to clean several lines. The Jackson family (Peter, Marcel and Hamish) went on the next trip when several lines were done, including Ward’s lead of the best line on the cliff, Shadowfax. Doug Fife visited the cliff in summer, repeated Shadowfax and added two routes, one solo. The general impression faded.
Then in the depth of winter which must be the worst time to climb there, Ward and Jackson began again. The definitive “secret cliff” syndrome became apparent, and over a few months a dozen or so routes were done Extensive cleaning was necessary, sometimes involving a whole trip. Fife joined in, repeating several routes solo and adding the poorly protected Winged.
The use of bolts prompted speculation about protection. Soloing some of the routes obviated the point, and so a new grade was introduced, the Seriousness Grade. (Ed note: The Ewbank system of grading allows for comment on “Seriousness” in the route description but the Jackson version is included here for historical relevance).
The Seriousness Grade
S1 – No seriousness. Always potential for good protection
S2 – Reasonable protection. Wide range of runouts with good runners. Most climbs are in this category
S3 - Poor protection. Runners likely to fail, impact likely. Very long runouts.
S4 – Extremely seriousness. All protection doubtful. Ground falls or similar probable
S5 – No protection of any sort (solo ascents)
Access
This guide is included on Thesarvo as a historical record awaiting verification of access to the crag. If you do visit, please try to negotiate with the owners of the land and access paddocks for future use by members of the CCT and wider climbing community. A reminder that these cliffs probably haven’t been climbed on for years and will require extensive re-cleaning. The bolts mentioned are now over 30 years old.
Turn off the Midland Highway at Melton Mowbray onto the Lake Highway and after 6km take a right turn onto Lower Marshes Road. About 6km along this road just after crossing a one lane bridge across the Jordan River, stop at the small white weatherboard house on the right. This is owned by the Porters from whom permission must be gained for access. You can spot Apsley Edge soon after leaving the Lake Highway.
Drive up and around the pines on the right, and then head back left up the hill across the paddock to the top left-hand corner. Park here.
Cross the fence, past a tin shed and walk up hill to the ridge running south east. Continue up the ridge until a small col arrives on the left and a section of crag can just be seen in profile. Head for the crags which remain out of view around the corner (15 – 20 mins).
The cliffs are not on the Porter’s property and although the owner provided permission to Noel Ward back in 1981 to investigate the cliffs, access has not been renegotiated since.
An ointment for “bruises, sprains, bumps, contusions, muscle and ligament injuries. External use only.” Entering the bottomless off-width is the crux. For all other scarring, seek the advice of your mental health team.
P. Jackson, N. Ward, July 1982.
A smelly chimney with a narrow strenuous exit once blocked by a chockstone which came out during the first ascent!
P. Jackson (solo), Nov 1981.
The short off-width start is harder than it looks.
P. Jackson (unseconded), Nov 1981.
Short but good climbing. The wall 1m right of Stevenson gives thin climbing to a bolt. Finish direct with a hard long reach to start.
N. Ward, P. Jackson, April 1982.
Photogenic. Starts low and trends up to right near the arête. A bolt protects the crux. Continue up right of a horizontal slot to a second bolt and finish direct on doubtful holds.
P. Jackson, N. Ward, April 1982.
Recommended. Steep and sustained. The start is gymnastic through the small roof. Continue straight up to a bolt runner. The crux follows for about the next 2m – steep, rounded holds.
P. Jackson, N. Ward, July 1981.
According to one contemporary definition, a moxon is a foul stench that even the most potent deodoriser is unable to dissipate. Now if that hasn’t put you off, this route climbs the straightforward corner to the top.
P. Jackson, N. Ward, R. De Cesare, Nov 1981.
An elegant face which took an enormous amount of cleaning to reveal the possibilities. Despite friable holds, the climbing is very nice. 2 bolts with crux between them.
P. Jackson, N. Ward, D. Fife, June 1982.
The first route climbed at Apsley Edge. A good varied climb.
R. De Cesare, P. Jackson, N. Ward, Nov 1981.
Short wall to rounded ledge. Through roof following obvious thin crack line with rounded holds forcing a crux near the top. Finish up Grainger.
N. Ward, P. Jackson, July 1982.
Poor arrangement of protection in the corner could make this route S3. Follow the corner to the scoop. Traverse left which is awkward and tricky, before finishing straight up on rounded holds.
D. Fife, P. Jackson, Jan 1982.
The crux is at half height where a move up slightly to the right uses some small doubtful layaways. Various runners are possible, including some unexpected cams, but the placements are poor.
D. Fife, P. Jackson, N. Ward, 1982.
A fairly pleasant chimney which develops a good atmosphere and has an amazing jug above the exit.
N. Ward, P. Jackson, June 1982.
Uninspiring, despite nice finger jams at half height on the crux. Care is needed on the exit where protection is wobbly and rock more so.
P. Jackson, N. Ward, June 1982.
Shadowfax (SF)
★★25m18S2A brave and marathon effort by Ward. A sweeping line with an enjoyable and well protected crux. Climb up and through a bulge where the crack narrows. The upper sections are sloping and with the benefit of further cleaning, this will only add to the experience.
N. Ward, P. Jackson, R. De Cesare, Nov 1981.
Nite Clubbing
★20m192ÞBest done after a big night out! Start up the hollow flake 2m right of Shadowfax, then move right below the BR to a shallow groove. Climb up past the small flakes to an interesting series of moves up to and past the next BR. Continue up the headwall to finish 3m right of Shadowfax.
Al Adams, N. Ward & G. Cooper, June 1984.
Originally cleaned by Ward in an epic effort only to be vultured by Fife. Jams to the off-width solved by a layaway.
D. Fife, N. Ward, Jan 1981.
Runts will Grunt
20m192ÞA route for the longer person. Start up the mossy wall 5m right of The Filcher and into a cave on the right. Move up past BR left of the cave and traverse left slightly to second BR. Follow the line of pockets to the top moving right to finish.
G. Cooper, N. Ward, A. Adams, June 1984.