Cape Bruny
10-30 min
Mixed sun and shade
Vertical to slabby dolerite
Acknowledgement
By Tony McKenny and Neale Smith (with additional contributions from P. Robinson, I. Snape and B. Baxter)
Introduction
Cape Bruny has a number of stunning dolerite sea cliffs in the Lighthouse area. The majority are slightly off-vertical but like most coastal cliffs, routes may need some cleaning before use although generally the rock is good. However, the top of some cliffs is loose and unconsolidated and needs particular care. As great a danger is probably wave action, particularly when a southerly is blowing, although most cliffs explored so far have at least some climbs accessible at any state of the tide.
Access
From the Ferry terminus drive south on the B66 past the Neck to Lunawanna. Turn right on to the C629 and follow road to the Lighthouse. Parking is available close by the old cottages.
NB The gate to the lighthouse area is closed from 4.30pm till 9.30 am.
Time from Hobart approximately 2hr if coordinated with the car ferry.
In 2026 some climbers were inadvertently turned away from accessing the Curry cliffs by the light house keepers. The CTT has confirmed with Nick Clark , acting lead ranger at Parks, that there is no problem with climbers accessing Cape Bruny cliffs generally, including using the access tracks described herein. Climbers please note the light house keepers are volunteers for Parks acting in good faith, but are not access authorities as such. Please inform the CTT if there are further concerns raised.
It is important for climbers to be aware of bird colonies on Court Island, and to not disturb the top of these cliffs - especially during shear-water nesting season (late Sept- April). At all times - try to walk only on rocky areas.
Camping
The nearest campsite to the Lighthouse area is a couple of kilometres before the lighthouse at Great Taylors Bay, on the right down Jetty Road (signposted). Bush toilets are available but bring your own water.
Quiet Bay
Follow the open ridge top through the burnt areas (2002) N. W. from the Lighthouse gate and scramble down the steep slope to the Bay. About 30 minutes.
Lest We Forget
★45m17Excellent crack climbing, death on a stick finish. Start by soloing round to the left onto the large ledge. May be difficult in a high sea. The climb follows a sinuous groove at the left hand edge of the ledge, where the kelp starts. Belay back on the dry part of the ledge. Step across to the bottom of the crack, trying to keep your feet dry. Straight up the crack to the top. Ideally you would place a bolt here and abseil off: more likely you will fight your way through vertical crud to the top, wishing fervently you were somewhere else. (It may be preferable to belay at half height to give you enough rope to get through the crud at the top).
T. & J. McKenny, 25 Apr 2003.
Jingerbread Haven
70m15K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, 22 Apr1979.
Courts Bay
Two cliffs, one 32m high and the other 50m, have been extensively climbed on here over the years, and more recently a smaller buttress on the beach approach. The rock is unusual for dolerite as the cliffs are all off-vertical, providing less strenuous and gentler climbing than is typical for this type of rock.
Accompaniment Crag
Access as for Curry Cliffs.
Just before Curry Cliffs proper, there is a small outcrop at the cliff end of the bouldery beach. This is Accompaniment Crag. There are 3 short but worthwhile trad lines for a bit of fun. Can walk off with care - back and down left.
Poppadoms on The Side
15On the left hand end of the outcrop. The left trending finger crack. Small cams and a small stopper or 2 - a little awkward to arrange.
Neale Smith, Andrew Davies, Sarah Franzen , 14 July, 2020
Mango Chutney
12The main crack line up middle of outcrop - good pro and pleasant climbing.
Andrew Davies, Sarah Franzen, Neale Smith, 14 July 2020
Coconut Cream
11The shallow groove on right. Pro in crack just right of the groove itself.
Sarah Franzen, Andrew Davies , 14 July 2020
Curry Cliffs
Walk up towards old lighthouse and head off left across the paddocks just after you pass the generator sheds, towards the new solar powered lighthouse. Cut down to the bay on the right (Courts Bay) and follow the shoreline back west to the crag. This cliff cuts the beach at right angles and features a series of shallow, gentle-angled square cut grooves. A prominent feature is a short broken ramp about 6m up, almost above the high water mark. There is a fixed abseil point above Tandoori - the old tat has been replaced by a 316 stainless steel chain in January 2016. As with all rap stations, please inspect before use. Unless absolutely needed, please refrain from leaving additional tat in other places on the top of the cliff.
Curry Cliff
Traverse left from Lifespice for 10m to a line beginning where there is a pale coloured rock-scar.
Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002.
From the high water mark, traverse left for 2 metres under an overhang and follow the cracks to the top.
Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002.
Bridges up the open corner to the left of the ramp and finishes up the obvious hand crack that splits the top of the buttress. Good climbing.
Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002.
Climb to the ramp and ascend the crack that leads from its right hand end to the top of the cliff.
L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Jul 1976.
(The two short cracks to the left of Tandoori have been climbed at around 10 - 12 by Bill and Patrice Baxter, Feb. 2004.)
The narrow arête right of Tandoori. Great position with blankish sections at the top where 'pro' can be found in the Tandoori crack immediately to the left.
T. McKenny, P. Robinson, 13 Mar 2004.
The open groove immediately to the right.
L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Aug 1976.
The wide arête on the right. Classy climbing.
I. Snape, C. Cole, 16 Jun 2001.
The next climb is the open book corner (about 1.5m wide).
Annapurna Special
★22m14Climbs the twin cracks in the left hand side of the corner to the top.
J. Mckenny, T. Meldrum &. T. McKenny, 16 Dec 2002.
Climbs the wide corner, bridging to the top.
C. (Basil) Rathbone, C Strang, 28 Jun 1976.
Boti
★★2218No curry without a knife and this is the sharpest blade around. Climb the knife edge arete between G and SK and avoid cutting into the easier climbs around. This may seem contrived but makes a excellent climbing experience. Bring small to medium cams and a few micros
Jeroen Jansen, Anne Knox, 28 September 2022
A narrow groove immediately to the right of the 1.5m Groove.
L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Jul 1976.
The dirty-looking crack on the right, which is surprisingly not too bad a climb.
T. McKenny, V. Van de Vusse, P. Robinson, 13 Mar 2004.
Left of "Shezan" (the prominent V groove) is a wide shallow 'chimney'. The groove on the nose immediately left of this, initially very loose but has been cleaned.
P. Robinson, C Rathbone, 19 May 1979.
The crack on the right side of the shallow chimney, immediately left of Shezan.
P. Robinson, T. McKenny, 13 Mar 2004.
The classic V groove with an obvious hand jam crack running through an area of red rock.
L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Jul 1976.
Thin but widening crack several metres up hill and right of Shezan, on right wall of small alcove. Using second thin crack on right for assistance.
D. James, K Malakoff, 05/04/2014
The ridge of Curry Cliff leads down to a point where the following small climb is located. Either traverse round over the water from Lifespice, or climb one of the standard routes and scramble down from above. The following climb is to the right of the small gulch.
Skullduggery
9m15At the lefthand of the ledge is a left facing corner and leaning hand crack. A touch awkward.
Dave James and Matt Jones, Apr 2002.
The Bench. Between the Curry Cliff and the High Court Cliff are two small buttresses; the second, 'The Bench', nearer the big cliff has two routes. Descend to the left via a large block.
The corner nearest the sea. The sloping corner leading to a colourful face then belay on prow.
Dave James and Rhiannon Arkins, Apr 2001.
The corner up and immediatly right of LGP.
Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.
High Court Cliff
Situated 5-10 minutes walk south of the lighthouse. From the lighthouse, follow the track down toward Courts Island for a hundred metres and then head diagonally left to a steep bushy gully leading down to the base of the crag. Alternatively (and probably better), from the top of the gully follow the cliff top round to the right and down through bushes to a cairn. Descend via a 50-metre abseil from some apparently solid boulders above Ocean Highway. The rest of the cliff top is unsafe.
On the waters edge, a sky rocketing 50-metre pitch, a classic, must do, climb. Climb the two thin cracks, approx. one metre apart, in the open corner. Take plenty of small/medium cams and nuts... it's a long way!
P. Robinson, S. Scott, 5 Feb 2004.
The arête immediately right of "All in Good Tide" and left of Ocean Highway. A direct line straight up the buttress. Atmospheric, a bumper climb.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, 29 Oct 2006.
The next corner crack to the right. A fine direct crack line.
C. Rathbone, P. Robinson, 19 May1979.
1.5m right of Ocean Highway, the obvious corner crack. Move onto the buttress at the very top to avoid the vegetation.
P. Robinson, M. Steane, 14 Apr 1979.
Approximately two thirds of the way up Out of the Shadow, step right and follow next line up loose blocks to the top.
M. Steane, P. Robinson, 13 Apr 1979.
Next line right, twin cracks followed by a long intimidating V-corner, which is climbed with help from the crack on the left.
S. Scott, P. Robinson, 5 Feb 2004.
Meteor Showers
★50m15Start R of Anty-Falaxis at twin cracks. Climb the wall between the cracks to a ledge, up the V-corner to a thin crack and carefully to the top. The climb is followed by a 10m scramble.(i.e. 60m total). Like most of the routes here, it is probably best to belay to a fixed rope left before the climb, as there are few anchors at the top of the cliff.
P.Robinson, C.Hewer, K.Robinson, 21 Mar 2009.
At the bottom of the grassy slope is a large blankish section of the cliff with three thin cracks. Climbs the obvious line to the L of these, bridging up a groove.
P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Oct 1978.
The left of the three thin lines. Nice clean line, position and climb.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, C. Hewer, 16 Mar 2008.
Up the centre of the three cracks. Turn the bush a few metres from the top by stepping R into the next line. A good looking line.
P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Oct 1978.
Revival of the Fittest
★50m15The thin crack R of Philadelphia Freeway (PF).
Harder at the start. High up, to avoid grass in the corner, move L onto the wall and climb the crack immediately R of PF.
As with all climbs on this cliff, take care with loose rock at the top.
P.Robinson, C.Rathbone 4/2013
Approximately 8m uphill from the foot of the mud slope are twin cracks, 60cm apart, up a corner. When the cracks run out, move onto the left buttress.
M. Steane, P. Robinson, 14 Apr 1979.
Further up the hill (10m) are two open "chimneys". The route takes the left-hand one. Belay at base of the crack on the left, beneath the chimney. Up the crack for 10m to grassy ledge, then bridge up chimney to exit past bush at top.
P. Robinson, M. Steane, 14 Apr 1979.
Courts Island
A short walk down the ridge southwest from the Lighthouse leads to the causeway across to Courts Island, which hosts a mutton-bird rookery. At low tide you can walk or wade across (about 50m) but difficulty may be experienced at high tide or in rough sea. Check at the Keepers Cottage if in doubt.
East Cliff
After crossing the causeway walk south (left) along the shoreline towards the cliffs. Approximately 100m from where the cliffs meet the sea is an obvious short, clean line consisting of twin cracks. Looks harder than it is!
Belay in the Burrow
60m12P. Robinson, K Bischoff , 21 Apr 1979.
Ocean Buttress
Walk over to the far southern tip of the Island. On the southeast side of the tip, above a deep gulch, are some impressive looking cliffs, rising from a shore platform. The routes may be best viewed from the N E side of the gulch. Probably best to abseil down the loose choss from the very end of the point to the wavecut platform and then scramble back round to the east towards the gulch, preferably at low tide and/or calm sea.
Shearwater
★45m12Walk round shelf into the gulch to a small but distinct triangular roof at about 3 m, at the widest point of the shelf, just before it ends. The climb starts 2m to the left, up the obvious crack. Bridge and jam to the top, passing a ledge on the left at half height.
P. Robinson, K. Bischoff 21 Apr 1979. (Probably the line of Canute climbed by J. McKenny, T. McKenny 16 Dec 2002)
The cliffs on the seaward side north of the gulch are reached by abseil to a shore platform (facing N E)
Tidal Temerity
40m15Follow a clean narrow corner for 30m to the ledge. The crack closes near the top. From the ledge climb easily to the top.
C. Rathbone, P. Robinson, J. Wills-Johnson, K. Bischoff, 19 May 1979.