Cape Raoul

2 hours / 6km
All day sun
Coastal dolerite columns and pillars

Acknowledgement

by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets.

Introduction

This place is pretty amazing. The trip to the end of the Cape has the flavour of an alpine ridge climb, while the new pillar routes are quality sport climbs. The situation is spectacular. Overall, one of the most enjoyable and memorable days out you’ll get anywhere. It is also worth noting there have been a increasing number of rescues and accidents involving climbers in the 2015-2022 era, so it is important to factor in the exposed and inaccessible nature of the pillars, which makes self-rescue much more difficult.

Access

Cape Raoul is 1:45 drive from Hobart followed by a 1:45 walk. Take the Tasman Highway and turn off about 7km past Port Arthur onto Stormlea Rd. Follow the signs to 'Cape Raoul Walking Track'. Fork right at 2km and right again after another 5km and follow this to the car park (another 3 km). The walk is about 6km and not too hilly – it starts and finishes about 200m and crests in the middle at about 430m. There are some good views along the way. Moving quickly and light it is possible to do any of these climbs as a day trip from Hobart, although it is a big day. Camping on the plateau at the end of the walking track makes for a more relaxed trip, although drinking water needs to be carried. There is a pond about 15 minutes before the end, but the water isn’t drinkable and dries up over summer.

Cape Climbs North of the Wedding Cake

For the cliffs beyond where the track finishes there are two alternate approaches. One follows the crest of the ridge down to the first col and was used to access The Finger of Blame (and is described with that route). The other alternative is to drop to the bush below the cliffs on the east side. From there it is possible to walk to the base of The Wedding Cake. It is possible to switch between these routes about half way along (where both involve some walking through bush).

The Finger of Blame

★★★14m23

This is the thinnest pinnacle visible from the lookout – the last before the Wedding Cake. The original access (described below) takes you on an interesting and scenic excursion along and below the upper ridge line of the Cape. An alternative access is to climb Rain of Terror to the col, and then climb another short pitch up the wide crack north of the col to the base of The Finger.1. 200m 12Abseil off the ridge at the very end of the track: 10m ab off a block; scramble 40m; 5m ab (U’s); 10m scramble; 35m ab (chain). From here scramble/ab down another 20m then walk across and down to The Way of Allah. This ledge system includes a short section of about grade 12 plus another dodgy bit and ends at The Cultural Void.2. 30m 18To cross The Cultural Void start by scrambling up the 3m boulder/flake on the near wall to DBB. From here go diagonally about 5m to a bolt. Lower off this until it is possible to stick-clip a bolt on the far side of the void. Pull across then hand traverse leftwards to the base of The Finger. Airy!3. 14m 23Take the arête to the top (fully bolted).

Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell & Norm Selby Dec 2002.

The Wedding Cake

Access to Wedding Cake – Low Route

It is possible to get to the Wedding Cake via The Cultural Void as described previously. The low route used in 1967 is quicker - but less scenic! To use this low route go down the gully between the lookout and the Cape (near where the walking track forks) via a 30m abseil (halved 50m rope will only reach if you take about 8m of rope to tie-off the abseil tree with!). To find the top of this gully from the walking track look for the lowest looking part of the terrain (a fairly obvious starting point for a gully!). This is discernible despite the scrub. Then look for a breach in the vegetation (you will know it when you find it). This breach is about 50m along towards the Cape from the point where the walking track forks [or use your GPS with coords: (0564643 5212380 WGS84). It is awkward to re-ascend the top 25m of this gully so it is advisable to fix a rope here. The walk through the bush is rough and quite eroded, but OK. The route is pretty clear. A new alternative to the gully is a bolted entry/exit route connecting the 40m scramble (described in access to The Finger) and the track. One 50m rap (after the 10m rap) gets you down to the low track at about the edge of the access photo-topo. About grade 17 to re-ascend. This reduces the need to leave abseil ropes in place (although two parties who have used this route don’t recommend it).

The trip to the pillars at the end of the Cape is pretty amazing and will leave you with a lot of respect for the first descentionists who somehow did it without cams etc. The big lump between The Finger and the end of the Cape was called “The Wedding Cake” by the climbers in the 1960’s.

There are three ways to ascend the Wedding Cake. The first is to climb DC Chimney; the second is to climb Rain of Terror and Jihad. A third option is to climb Kufr.

Kufr

★4018

Around the arete immediately left of DC Chimney. Scramble onto vegetated ledge with offwidth crack/chimney in corner. Climb clean handcrack on face to the right of offwidth stepping right when handcrack finishes. Follow corners and cracks to the top. Better done as two pitches.

Dave James & Margie Jenkin, 2001

DC Chimney

HVDiff (16?)

This is mentioned in 1960’s accounts: “the main weakness in the cliffs … the Douglas-Christie Chimney”. Presumably it is the chimney L of the off-width (which is L of Rain of Terror). You might see a rusty white nail in the wall near the base.

Douglas & Christie, 1960’s.

Rain of Terror

★40m18

Starts from the end of the 1967 access route, at the base of the Cake. Scramble/climb steeply up to the foot of the old chimney-corner to belay for the 40m pitch above. In the corner is an off-width. Instead take the hand crack 4m to the R. There is a large ledge at 30m, where it is best to belay here off a DBB (sheltered from the wind). Continue up the corner behind the large horn to DBB at the col. (FA party climbed up to the col on the north side of the Cake via the ugly wide crack on the R wall. This col is also an alternative access to The Finger of Blame up the wide crack north of the col).

Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Jan 2003.

Jihad

★★30m18

From the col at the top of Rain of Terror, traverse 2m L and follow the hand crack 2m L of the arête. Belay off DBB. Pleasant climbing in a great position.

Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Jan 2003.

Infidel

★★30m22

Spectacular alternative to Jihad that climbs the arête immediately to the R. Double ropes are handy, but not essential. Start from the col above Reign of Terror. From the col, clip the bolts and step R to gain very exposed arête. Follow the cracks up the arête until they run out. Continue past bolt (crux) to finish up straight-forward crack. Belay from bolts above Jihad.

Simon Mentz (one rest), Joel Murray, Lisa Boyle, Dec 2011. FFA Simon Mentz, Steve Monks, Feb 2012.

Beyond the Wedding Cake

Route from Wedding Cake to Cape

1.From the top of Jihad, walk to the far end of the Cake. you have to down climb a section before an airy spot just before you abseil (off links) 30m onto the west side. Re-ascending this bit is about grade 17 – climb up going left a little to a hand crack – through this (crux) then either straight up central corner to anchors, or up and rightwards to a chimney.2.Walk back right (away from pillars) before a scramble down and back left then along and up to col (about 100m). Don’t go to the very end of where you can walk, but about 20m short and climb a short corner/chimney.3. 55m 12Over a couple of lumps on the ridge. A 60m rope comes tight when the leader reaches the next abseil anchors. You can't communicate between belays, so the leader should just put the second on belay and they start as soon as rope is tight.4.Abseil down chimney (grade 13 to re-ascend) and directly towards pillars. 30m gets you to a large flat ledge (sling large block), 35m gets you to the notch below the routes.

Alternative Low Level Route from Wedding Cake to Cape via Eastern Side

Phil Robinson dug up this description from the CCT circular of July 1976. “A new low-level route was followed to the end of the cape. This was first discovered by Col Hocking and Vili Bartholomew a few months ago. They reached an impasse 20 foot above the waves. From the foot of 'The Wedding Cake', continue down to the left and round the corner. Scramble up a grassy gully then traverse diagonally down, following the obvious weaknesses. Most of the route is scrambling on steep ground with the sea a few hundred feet below. (Do not slip). Down-climb a 20' chimney (grade 5) and then immediately to the left an 80' chimney (grade 9). This brings one onto a platform some 20' above the sea. Walk round toward the end of the Cape, climb across another chimney and round a corner to the final obstacle - a 20' crack dropping into the swell. At this point a calm sea is required! The crack is wet and difficult to down-climb (grade about 14). 15' above the top of the climb, some nuts can be fixed in a crack. The climber is lowered down to a ledge 3' above the water, which varies from 0' - 4' in depth depending on the swell. On the ledge he gathers some slack rope, waits for the swell to fall, then jumps onto the kelp platform and runs like hell. Only a few seconds elapse before the water crashes in again. The rope is left fixed. One is now on the seal platform - honk-stink. Most of the seals will have slobbered into the sea by this stage. Only a short walk brings one to the end of the cape: and mind-blowing cliffs 4' - 600' high. The number of routes is phenomenal. The return trip is another epic of judgment and speed. One is essentially on the end of a pendulum. When the sea drops one runs to the base of the crack, jams and is hauled up it as quickly as possible." Sounds dodgy in terms of risk from swell!

Glen Kowalik, Basil Rathbone, Phil Robinson, John Chambers 4 Apr 1976.

The pillars at the end are described in the order you reach them (north to south). The first two are modern style and the last two were done in the 1960’s. The Cape appears to have been the site of a lot of activity back then.

Pole Dancer Pillar (pillar #4)

Pole Dancer

★★★40m2212Þ

AKA “Power Pole”. This is on the first (northern) pillar.1. 15m 14Climb the chimney to a large ledge with DBB on the north side of the Pole.2. 25m 22Superb and sustained arête climbing in a wild and amazing place. Fully bolted. Altogether this makes one of the best, and certainly the most memorable routes at the grade in the country.

Roger Parkyn, Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.

Certified Wise

★★★40m23Þ

The pick of the bunch. Access as for Pole Dancer. Instead of heading up the chimney though, scramble up to the notch between the two pillars to a nice ledge.1. 35m 23Crank up initial arête, making your way onto the face and over the roof. From the stance blast up the amazing arête enjoying the improbable sequences. Finish on DBB on ledge. 10 bolts.2. 5m 17Layback the block past two bolts to the summit. Descend as for Pole Dancer.

Simon Young, Garry Phillips, Alex Lewis Nov 2010.

Pole Axed Pillar (pillar #3)

Pole Axed

★★40m21Þ

The next pillar along.1. 20m 16Climb the chimney to a large ledge on the south side. Use the first bolt on the next pitch for the belay.2. 20m 21Follow the flake to a ledge. Continue up the arête to the top (fully bolted).

Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell, Andrew Irvine, Dec 2003.

North Pole

★★25m21?Þ

Climbs the north face of the Pole Axed Pillar.1. 10m 19From the col traverse out leftwards and up to the big ledge.2. 15m 21Continue up face and LH arête on immaculate rock to the Disaster Master belay.

A. Reeves, G. Phillips (alt), Mar 2012.

Disaster Master

★★45m26Þ

Another climb up the Pole Axed pillar.1. 25m 20Climb face opposite CW past bolts and a few natural runners (not essential) to spacious ledge.2. 10m 26Crank up thin face above, step L then to summit. To descend rap 15m off Pole Axed side to DBB, then 25m rap to notch.

Simon Young, Owen Davis, Steve Goss, Nov 2010.

Disaster Master – Pole Axed Linkup

★★★45m21

A much better way to climb the Pole Axed pillar, avoiding the chimney of PA and the hard crux of DM. Combine this with Pole Dancer for a mind-blowing day out!1.DM first pitch to ledge with DBB.2.Step R and finish up Pole Axed. 15m rap off Pole Axed side. 25m rap to notch.

The Second Pillar

The Second Pillar of Hercules

HVDiff & A1?

This is an excerpt from “The Climbers Log” which I photocopied before it was lost or stolen in the early 1990’s. They numbered the pillars one to four, with one being furthest towards the end of the Cape. “At 7:00am we left camp, ascended The Wedding Cake and traversed out to the Pillars of Hercules. We commenced to drill the artificial pitch of the second pillar at 10:15. Five expansion nails had been placed on previous attempts, four of them by Douglas and G Wyatt last May. Another five nails were put in and the summit gained at 1:15pm. Two drills were broken on this occasion. The expansion nails were Dryvins (1 ½ x ¼ inch). (These are looking pretty dodgy now!) The total length of the pillar climbed by this means was approx 40 ft.”

Mike Douglas and Geoff Batten during Aug 31 to Sep 2, 1967.

The Last Post

★35m23Þ

Climbs the same route as the above mention bolt ladder, all free on new bolts (M10 Trubolts).1. 15m 16From the col between Pole Axed and Pole Dancer pillars, traverse R and squeeze up to a belay in a small, sheltered 'crows nest'.2. 20m 23Up R, slinging a horn before stepping onto the pillar proper. Clip first bolt before swinging round the arête and climbing it. crosses both sides of arête. Lest we forget.A 30m abseil should get you back to the col from the summit with stretch.

FFA: Garry Phillips, Simon Young, Jan 2012.

The Last Pillar

Pillar of Hercules

Another excerpt from “The Climbers Log”: “After a 4 am start The Wedding Cake was ascended and the party continued along the ridge beyond the furthest point reached last year. Eventually a route was found to the Pillars of Hercules (Matchsticks) and a long pitch chimneying up airily between two of them led to the top of one. (They don’t say which one, but it may have been just before the Last Pillar, in the vicinicty of the end of pitch 1 of Pole Position).

The trip involved Reg Williams, Tom Terry, Mike Douglas and Tim Christie [1967 or earlier].

Climbs accessed from the South West platform

Some great new climbs starting from the SW lea level platform, aka "The Gift Shop".
It is best to aim for a day with low swell. Various link up/circuit options exist to combine these with Pole Dancer and the other climbs starting higher on the pillars for a fun day out.

Access: After rapping off the western side of the Wedding Cake, follow the scramble for the Pole dancer access but from 10m before the “Stegosaurus” pitch descend gully further to a double bolt anchor. Make two (10m and 30m) rappels down “Exit Through the Gift Shop” to the platform. Alternatively rappel in from DBB next to the base of Certified Wise (30m) after climbing the classics on upper tier.

Exit Through the Gift Shop

★45m21

1.28m 21 Easy climbing on jugs for 25m to a strange last move. Optional 0.75 before the last bolt.2.15m 12 Scramble up through rock and bushes to the DBB.

Liz Oh, Kim Ladiges (alt) Jan 2023.

Hot Tyler's Day Out

★30m16

Follow chimney and burrow behind the boulder at ¾ height to the base of Certified Wise.

Tyler Rohr, Liz Oh (belay) Jan 2023

Air Chrysalis

★★★55m22

Classic trad route. Gear is adequate but spaced and sometimes hard to see. Involves a mandatory 5m run out at the crux. Route was rappel-inspected before first ascent. Double set of cams to #4 plus wires. Triples of 0.75 size is handy. Route can be rappelled on a 70m rope, or with a 60m rope rappel from the summit to ledge and then traverse to certified wise rappel station.1.15m 17 Follow cracks to ledge and double bolt belay2.35m 22 Follow crack on the right side of the ledge. Climb upwards passing some hard to see gear and then trend left to crack. Up this to roof. Pass roof to good gear, take a deep breath and climb the run out crux. At a #3 horizontal hand traverse right for 3m to crack in the arete. Follow crack then arete to the top.

Liz Oh, Kim Ladiges (alt), Nov 2023.

Hard Boiled Wonderland

★★★50m24

Excellent mixed route on the very last pillar! Bring draws and a single set of cams to #3. You can rap on a 60m from DBB near the top of the pillar. There is no anchor at the very top as the first ascent of this pinnacle was the trad route Pole Position which can still be climbed in its original trad-style glory.1.25m 21 Follow bolt line and features including some incredible knobs to a DBB.2.25m 24 Follow bolts up and right then up flakes and cracks to the horizontal break and final pillar section with some classic fridge-hugging / arete climbing.

Liz Oh, Kim Ladiges (alt), Allen Higginbotham, Jan 2023.

Pole Position

70m24

Established ground-up on a very calm day, this route starts from 'seal' level and finishes at the top of the Pillar at the End of the World. Walk along the platform, around the tip of the Cape until you reach a chimney (just before the seal colony). Climb 5m chimney to block, then climb wall to ledge on L below chimney to start.1. 30m 18Cracks and squeeze chimney. Belay in notch at boulder choke.2. 15m 22Continue up chimney, moving towards seal colony side to small ledge, then up dog-leg crack to big ledge.3. 15m 24The Last Pillar of Hercules. Up R side of large square face, then traverse L along horizontal break to opposite arête. Up this past undercling, then on to top. Take a shoulder length sling. Descend by counter-weight abseil (or something similar) to first elevated platform in direction of seal colony. Flick your rope off, and the person left on the starting ledge can top-rope the crack east of pillar at 16 to get out. Scramble up to next platform.4. 2mHop over the gap. From here, follow your nose along the ridge back to the base of the other pillars, then reverse the standard access route to exit. A fun day out.

Jake Bresnehan, Kim Robinson, Doug McConnell, Dean Rollins (alt), 30 Nov 2008.

Climbs North of the End of the Cape

Elephant in the room

Everyones looked at it haven't they? The 200m high cliff near the end of the walking track (past pond gully crag).
Approach:
Solo or abseil from the end of the walking track 7m then scramble to old abseil station (40m?) to access the Cape. Scramble, staying close to cliff until possible to exit to the west side of the cape. Zig zag through scrub and until possible to gain southern ridge/ramp. Stay on the edge of the ramp avoiding, scrub untill you reach the lowest point then scramb north and up to the cliff, and along base, down climbing short corner to get the the base at grade 8. Feel like a mouse.

Word on the street

205?18x?

An adventure... take a helmet. Perhaps the most direct line on the wall.
Recomended Rack: Single set Wires, Singles from 0C3-0.5C4, Doubles 0.75-2C4, Triples or Quadriple - 3,4 Camalot, single 5,6 Camalot. Might get away with out a 6 if you climbed the direct (unclimbed) line instead of pitch 3.

1) 40m 15 Up easy slab to chimney corner with twin cracks to ledge on the right.
2) 25m 18 Up groove and thin cracks to ledge on the left of the line at the base of giant 'flame' shaped rock scar. The king line on the crag continues directly up from here. (scary razor blade flakes a few metres up)
3) 45m 16 Step around corner from left end of ledge, up twin offwidth cracks in chimney corner cracks 4' to 6'. Belay deep in the valley of death (deep chimney on right).
4) 30m 14 Up chimney 10m before traversing left at 10m on line of holds then up outside of chimney via large thin flake and large chockstone to ledge.
5) 25m 17 Up squeeze chimny to top of pillar then climb 5' crack with some hand jams in back and features outside.
6) 50m 15 Up short cracks and corners directly to top, finish up short blocky corner and step onto lookout track.

Danger Darren, Dave James 26/03/2012

Upon reaching the pond a dramatic vista of cliffs is revealed. Sheer 200 m high cliffs extend for the remaining 1 km to the end of the track. Some of the lines have been climbed (Thanks to Dave James for all this info).

Pond Gully Crag

About 20min before the end of the Cape Raoul track, near the ephemeral pond, is a steep valley that runs to the sea. Near the top of the valley and the scree shute, three cracks lead to a somewhat dirty ledge, at about 25-30m

Baudin

20m17

The left most crack.1. 20mA neat hand-crack.2.Continue as for Skyborne (or brave the chimneys straight up...)

Dave James, Simon Locke, 2004.

Skyborne

60m18A1

The right most crack1. 25mThe right-hand crack (the last 3-4 metres was aided on the first ascent).2. 40mClimb the corner before moving up and right at the ledge to avoid the unattractive chimney. Once around the corner, climb up the hand-crack with the axe-head at the top, and then the final short face above.

Dave James, Tom Diltz and Sam Brewster, Jun 2000.

Mindfire

65m18

Ascends the left wall of the large chimney left of The Shells of Rheban. The line is not visible from the other side of the valley.1. 7mVery carefully access the first belay ledge by climbing a few metres up the left facing corner and crack then stepping left.2. 25mBeautiful climbing leads to a small belay atop a flake.3. 33mContinue awkwardly though the roof then an opportunity leads excitingly left and up to the final crack (#5 BD Camalot useful), face then final belay of Skyborne.

Doug Grubert, Dave James, Feb 2001.

The Shells of Rheban

★★70m19

Perhaps the most obvious line on the cliff. The mediocre 2nd pitch is tolerable after the first 50 metres of magic. The crack splitting a pillar set out from the cliff slightly (about 200m down the gully) that finishes on a large ledge 3/4 of the way up the cliff. Scramble in from the left.1. 50m 19The incredible crack. Starts as hand sized, and has some great over hanging sections, before widening to a fist crack towards the top. 3x #3 BD Camalot (or equivalent) useful. A long, tiring pitch.2. 20mClimb/scramble up and right to the Party Stone and thus the cliff top.

Dave James, Hamish Jackson, Oct 1999.

Hellfire

70m16

The long corner next line right of The Shells of Rheban.1. 15mThe dirty crack and flaring chimney leads to a dirty ledge on the right.2. 50mClimb the corner past the large dagger shaped flake to a belay at the top of the corner on the left.3. 5mUp and right to the Party Stone.

Dave James, Tim Whelan, 2000.

Hoorayfabob

70m17

The left facing corner to the right of Hellfire. It awaits a direct start.1. 15mAs for Hellfire.2. 25mMove right onto the ledge at the corner base and climb to a semi-hanging belay below a narrow over-lap on the right wall.3. 30mContinue jamming and pass the roof at the right. Continue to the top and exit via the Party Stone.

Margie Jenkin, Dave James, Nov 2000.

Gatekeeper Pinnacle

50m15

About 20m downhill from Hoorayfabob, a relatively short pinnacle (the Gate Keeper) is detached from the main face by a narrow chimney. The first ascent arranged a rope abseil, if you don’t like it take a big sling. Start at the broken slabs and blocks to the right of the pinnacle.1. 20mVia the easiest route, climb up and left to the base of the pinnacle and chimney.2. 30mPlacing gear when you can, climb the chimney passing the two chockstones on the outside (cliff right).

Tim Whelan, Dave James, Dec 2001.

The Jim

The Jim is the small buttress further down the valley from the gate-keeper pinnacle. Capped by an unfortunate band of loose and scrubby stuff. The Jim has some fun shorter routes and is the access to routes on the more intricate cliffs above. Descend via the spike abseil (sling required) at the top of Smileshine or keep on climbing.

Punky Brewster

25m15

The chimney and crack 10m right of the left end of the crag.1. 25mthe chimney leads to and past the Punk a large protruding and over hanging flake. Belay carefully at the top of the final hand-crack before scrambling up then right and then down to the Smileshine descent.

Dave James, Sam Brewster, Rhiannon Arkins and Ian Riley, 2000

Troublemaker

25m17

The dog-legged hand crack to the immediate right of Punky Brewster. The crack then mantle before moving right to fist crack and block to small left facing corner above (or go left to PB). Belay here before carefully scrambling up through the Badlands before descending seaward and down to the abseil spike.

Dave James & Margie Jenkins Dec 2000

Joymaster

27m17

Several metres left of the flaring off-width. The shallow left facing corner leads to the right facing corner and cracks above.

Dave James and Pete Guiver Jun 2000.

Smileshine

30m15

The Double cracks and corners a bit further down?

Dave James and Pete Guiver June 2000

Urban Jungle

This cliff is above the Jim. Somewhat complicated by mutual ledges and pitches it has some great moderate crack climbing. Features visible from the plateau opposite include the Leaning Tower of Pizza, the Milestone and the Groovy Penguin (Angels of Imagination). Access is by climbing one of the routes at the Jim.

Ocean of Wisdom

140m17

Directly up from Punky Brewster is a short leaning (out) pillar (The Leaning tower of Pizza), immediately to the right is a hand crack.1. 25mClimb the hand-crack past a large flake before stepping right to a small belay in a small corner.2. 25mContinue directly up the corner into a hand and fist crack that leads to a bouldery ledge and possible belay. Walk a few metres to the left to a hand crack in right facing corner and continue to a ledge at the base of the wide chimney.3. 50mStart with the hand-crack and flake continuing to where the arching flake on the left wall may be reached then climb till you cross the line again to the right wall for some face moves before it becomes easy to bridge back to the left wall. Exit the chimney out left, climbing through the tree to belay at small ledge behind a second tree.4. 35mThe natural continuation is directly up the less than attractive wide cracks but the first ascent followed them for a few metres only before an under cling move left gains another Cape Raoul hand crack to the cliff top.

Dave James and Mark, Feb 2002

Journey Agent

150m15

A groovy stone adventure sharing commonalities with SBT.1.As for Sun Beam Traveller2.As for SBT3. 15mClimb the middle of the three cracks. Layback then chimney to a ledge at the base of a chimney/groove possessing a hand-crack and a finger crack4. 40mA long pitch of jamming up the groove following the hand-crack on the left when the cracks diverge.5. 35mMoving right to meet with the latter part of pitch 5 of SBT.

Tim Whelan and Dave James, Jun 2001.

Sunbeam Traveller

150m16

A delightful journey up a wild crag via lovely stone. There are a number of possible belays so split and combine pitches as desired.1.Climb Smileshine or one of the other routes at the Jim and scramble up to a fist crack and short open left facing corner.2. 30mclimb the fist crack to a ledge and continue up the right facing corner before moving left past a prominent chockstone. Continue up and diagonally left and scramble to belay in wide chimney (small amphitheatre) with 3 cracks.3. 15mSBT takes the right hand crack. Climb the flaring crack to hand crack and continue through the next hand and fist crack to large ledge at the base and left side of the Milestone pillar (a detached 15m pillar).4. 15mThe narrow but friendly chimney behind the pillar to belay on its summit.5. 55mStep off the Milestone to its right to funky holds and groovy crack. Moving left at the ledge continue via ledges and corners to a steep hand crack then final corner and top.

Dave James and Margie Jenkin Sep 2000

Flems Desire

150m16

A variant to routes on CMC. To access climb one of the routes at The Jim (~30m) then traverse round the corner to the right to find a right facing corner with a small slab at its base, start here. This is approximately 10m left of the start of Angels of Imagination.1. 15mClimb the corner to a (small?) ledge backed by two large cracks.2. 25mStep off the ledge into the natural continuation, the V-chimney and fist crack, this leads to a right facing corner with a shrinking hand crack, this leads directly to a short face with a hand-crack and a thinner crack, climb these to a blocky and vegetated ledge below a large chockstone.3. 15mBridge into the wide crack before carefully moving around the capping boulders to a ledge at the base of the Milestone.4. 60mContinue as for Pitch 5+ of Sunbeam Traveller.

Dave James and Dave Fleming Jan 2002

Angels of Imagination

150m16

(AKA The Groovy Penguin)1. 30mClimb Smileshine or one of the other routes at The Jim before traversing carefully right (about 20-30m) and up to a broken left facing corner2. 20mClimb the corner before stepping right to a ledge then continue up hand-crack on face to a large ledge.3. 30mAbove is a large corner with two large cracks and a spooky stone needle at the base. Bridge and squirm to a possible belay on the left which is at the base of the long chimney behind the Groovy Penguin. Continue over the chockstones and belay on the last one.4. 40mThe long classic chimney pitch. Chimney, chimney, chimney then step to the pillar and climb to belay on top of the pillar.5. 30mStep back to the mainland and climb mediocre rock to top.

Dave James, Margie Jenkin 2001.

Ex-Trig Crag

Further along the track from the large valley (or the pond) there used to be a trig station which is now gone so it isn’t a good marker, you might detect a remaining lump of concrete though. One climb has been done here.

Rambo Rhetoric

60m18

1. 25mA hand and fist crack leads to more featured but steep terrain, the crack system peters out conveniently where a step left accesses a ledge,belay here.2. 35mA few metres higher, move left again carefully around questionable rock and continue following your nose to the top.

Dave James, Ben Rhee, Aug 2002 (with a single rest on gear at 24m).

The Future

Some 10-15 minutes further along the track from the Valley (or the pond) is the Future, a chasm which runs to the sea. Descend from the south facing wall at the shortest point possible essentially descending over Snail Trail (~50m). A good view of the south facing (northern) wall may be obtained from atop the southern wall. Directly opposite a cairned boulder three major lines may be viewed. “Nemesis the Angry Cornflake” is the left hand line with a yellow section half way up. Tape recommended.

Nemesis the Angry Cornflake

60m17

Start at a wide broken groove with 2 possible means of climbing around large blocks at several metres height to a wide crack in a shallow right facing corner with a thinner fusing crack to the right.1. 30mClimb to the large crack then bridge and squirm past side-pulls before moving right into the hand-crack. Continue to a semi-hanging belay at the yellow rock.2. 30mMore jamming to the top.

Dave James, Dave Fleming, Feb 2002.

Snail Trail

55m16

Starting at the twin cracks on the northern wall just below the cave at the chasm head.1. 30mclimb the cracks then continue past blocks and corners to a light coloured triangular sloping ledge backed by an off width.2. 25mcontinue directly up to a left facing corner and soon thereafter the scrub.

Dave James, Pete Guiver, 2000.

Lookout Crag

Near the end of the walking track a side track leads left (towards Mt Brown) to a cliff facing Cape Raoul proper. In December 1995 we kind of assumed this route and ones on the cape had been climbed in the 70’s.

Swotvac (retronamed)

50m17

A detached pillar should be discernable 5-10 m from the end of the main track. This climb goes up the right side of it (looking up from bottom)?1. 25mA right-facing corner and crack to a small vegetated ledge on the left.2. 25mUp a few metres and squeeze into the chimney behind the detached pillar and squirm to the top.

Mikey Thomas, Dave James and Mark Stuver, Nov 1995.

Lonely Pillar

Head east from the seal lookout crag along the cliff top to the top of the next ridge east of the cape. Please minimise the impacts from your visit and leave nothing behind, take care of the natural bonzai on top.

Cracked

20m14

The crack splitting the pillar on the north side. Simul rap, use the mainland rap line to descend over the back or lower out from the summit.

Danger D, Zachary S, Feb 2022

Vice

Approach as for the wedding cake climbs. The trail to Vice is marked with yellow tat in a tree.
From a small clearing, fix (natural anchor) a 20m rope to the top of the cliff and fix (using threads) a 60m rope to rappel to the base of the cliff.
This Cliff has no bolts and utilizes threads when needed. What is a thread? Glad you asked. a thread is a 16mm hole drilled through the rock which a 13mm dyneema sling is threaded through, clip the loops and you have a piece of protection.

Blackheart Sassafras

★★60m19

Has a film to it, more sandy than Olivia Newton-John. Saying that, the second pitch is on par with Arapiles' Morfydd. Take plenty of one and two Camelot's with a double rack to # Three.1.14 25m Solid rock becomes a sand pit and the last couple of metres becomes quite suspect.2.19 35m Jamming you'll dear diary about and slightly overhung at one point.60cm and 120cm threads for the anchor.

03.01.22 Danny Wade, Zakki (LSD) Brideau (2nd)

Stockholm Syndrome

★★61m26

A condition in which hostages develop a psychological bond with their captors during captivity.
Best done on a 70m rope or the belayer will have to start climbing for the leader to get to the belay as on the first ascent.
Trad with three threads on route. First thread at half height and the third in the last three metres from the top require a 60cm sling. The middle thread at three quarter height requires a 120cm sling. Two x 60cm slings for the anchor threads. Double rack to #3. Camelot with extras of #1. and #2.
The cruxes are run out and bouldery, much excitement. Head pointed and all gear, including threads placed on lead during the first ascent.

12.02.22 Danny Wade, Ale Bogg (belay)

Instrument of Joy

★★★6020

As difficult and intimidating as it looks, requires an arsenal of off-widthing techniques...get a god up ya!1.30m 15 A pleasant warm up finishing on the baby orca chockstone.2.30m 20 All the big cams and hope you've studied your crack book. 2x 60cm threads for the anchor and 120cm thread as directional.

12.02.22 Danny Wade, Ale Bogg (alt)