thesarvo

Kingston

118 Problems0255075100VE-23-56-89+
  • Walk1 min
  • SunShady with some afternoon sun
  • RockSandstone

Acknowledgement

By Paul Pritchard

Introduction

Whitewater Creek has easy access and fun bouldering in a suburban wasteland setting. On the whole the rock is good quality, coarse sandstone with a few soft patches.
Problems are described left to right, i.e. furthest upstream first.

Access

Access is via Bunnings roundabout in Huntingfield. Drive down to the roundabout in Springfield Estate and turn right onto Eldridge Street. Go to the end and take a right turn overlooking Whitewater Creek where you will see some short crags and boulders. Walk down about 50m to the crag.

GPS

Whitewater Creek Bouldering

The Mushroom

The mushroom shaped boulder left of the Whale. Recommend a couple of pads and a few spotters for the problems in The Mud Pit.

1.

Pancho

VE(Stand)

The very left of the Mushroom there is a tree. Climb up behind this.

PP 6/20

2.

The Sickener

VE(Stand)

Climb up just R of the tree via a big foot hold.

PP 6/20

3.

The Wolf Pit

VE(Stand)

Step up onto the slab and go diagonally R to finish R of the vegetation.

PP 6/20

4.

Midday Lightning

★V2(Stand)

Start at the L hand end of the roof and climb Rightwards on a rail above the lip until in a position to top out.

S. Monks 17/1/21

The Mud Pit

5.

Spotted Quoll

V1/2(Stand)

Use the good start pocket and decent holds to the roof then finish by matching hands in the small bowl on the top.

Dale Maschette 5/20

6.

Spotted Quoll Extension

V3/4(Stand)

Continue on through Spotted Quoll to finish on the top of the boulder. Bonus points for cutting feet with a mantle.

7.

Spots Over There?

V 3/4(Stand)

Same start as Spotted Quoll but go left instead of right, finish over the top

Dale Maschette

The Whale

8.

covid forever

V1(Stand)

Through two crimps and layback.

flr 10/20

9.

Covid 19

★V1(Stand)

Start at L end of ledge and climb direct past the pocket in the middle of wall.

Eli P. 22/2/20

10.

Bunnings Snag

V0(Stand)

Top the scoop above the ledge.

Eli P. 19/3/2020

11.

Deucey's Left Nostril

★V0(Stand)

Up through 'The Whales Eye'.

Eli P. 22/3/2020

12.

Deuceys Nose

★V1(Stand)

Climb the nose direct.

Eli P. 29/1/20

13.

Downward Descent

V0/1(Stand)

The slanting crack.

5/20 Chris W down/ Eli P. up.

The Submarine

14.

Onsight Bouldering

V2(Stand)

The black bulge just Right of Downward Descent using foot in that problem.

Chris W. 5/2/20

15.

Wedgie

★V1(Stand)

An independent line up the wall R. of Onsight Bouldering.

Charlie B. 5/20

16.

The Sausage Sizzler

VE(Stand)

Chimney up behind the tree.

PP 5/20

17.

John Bacher's Boots: Derek Kenyon's Anus

VE(Stand)

Climb the seam behind tree, direct to the sky.

P. Kelly 28/2/20

18.

Mind Blank

V2(Stand)

Through bulge just R. of John Bachar via the undercut.

Eli P 5/20

19.

Project

(Stand)
20.

David Attenborough Off Route

V1(Stand)

Start Left of Bellamy at a sloper in the roof. Pull through the roof and step right into Bellamy.

Eli P. 22/3/2020

21.

David Bellamy In The Wild

★V2/3(Stand)

The bulge just Left of the periscope tree growing out of the crack.

CW 5/2/20

22.

Wicked

V3(Stand)

The undercut wall just Right of the periscope.

CW 5/2/20

23.

Everything’s a foothold

★V3(Stand)

Start on the two pockets, finishing on small crimps & sidepulls.

Jack R. 5/20

24.

Front Porthole

V0(Stand)

Rowen M. 22/2/20

25.

Joe Brown's Helmet

VE

Behind the tree right of Front Porthole.

PP. 2020

26.

The P-Lock Traverse

★V0/1(Stand)

Begin at the start jug for 'David Attenborough Off Route'. Traverse right on nice pockets before topping out around the RH corner of the boulder where 'Joe Brown's Helmet' finishes. Great warmup.

Pat B, Lachlan J 5/20

The Wave

27.

Occasional Sifter

VE(Stand)

Up slab on very L of The Wave.

PP 5/20

28.

Bob The Builder

V0

Start as for Wasteland and climb straight up.

8/20

29.

The Wasteland

V0(Stand)

Step onto the stippled slab and traverse R to the corner and up this to finish.

PP 5/20

30.

Whymyhere

V1(Stand)

Pull on to the slab at the L hand of the wave. climb up to the tree.

D.Barnes 5/20

31.

Fluffy's

V1(Stand)

Direct start to Wasteland. Powerful pull up into the corner.

Eli P 5/20

32.

Crippled Nipple

★★V1(Stand)

Start below the big hold and climb pebbles up the slab above the bulge.

Eli P. 22/1/20

33.

An Awesome Wave

★★V3(Stand)

Start off opposing side pulls, pull through the bulge

34.

Project

★★Tricky(Stand)

Undercut horn and big span. Difficult pull around the bulge.

35.

Lockdown

★V2(Stand)

Crux is climbing over the top. Finish L or R.

Eli P. 1/4/20

36.

Tsunami

V0(Stand)

At the low part of the wall just R of a pale streak.

Marco M. 5/20

The Arboretum

The wall right of The Wave, with a couple of big trees (now pruned) at its right hand end. The rock quality is a bit variable but has a few fun lines.

37.

Arborist

V3

Up the seam. Follow good holds in and around the seam through an unnerving blank slopey section just below the big finishing jug - a little fragile in places. Should clean up more with traffic.

DB 03/2020

38.

Lumberjack

?

Project - just right of the seam, sit start to big pockets then a big move left to a side pull and straight up (staying out of the seam of Arborist)

DB

39.

Woodhooker

V4/5

Project - same start as Lumberjack project, but will hopefully make big hard moves on up and right to top out

DB

40.

Pulled Pork

V1(Stand)

Start between the two trees. Climb up to the crack and pull past this to top out..

Rowen M. 5/20

Toddler Boulder

Down at creek level below the Arboretum in a slab boulder perfect for first time boulderers.

41.

Tricky

V3(Stand)

On the right of the Arboretum is a cave. Up the Left edge of this to a scoop. Finish up the centre of this scoop.

CW 2/24

42.

Thing 1

VE

L. side of boulder.

9/20

43.

Thing 2

V0

Start as for Thing 1 and go diagonally R.wards to top.

9/20

44.

Thing 3

V0

Direct start to Thing 2.

9/20

Cheeks Boulder

Down hill from RH side of The Arboretum is a small boulder to the R of Toddler Boulder.

45.

Cheeks Traverse

V0

Traverse top of boulder L to R.

9/20

Santa Wall

Towards the left end of crag.

46.

Santas Sack

V0


Eli P. 20/12/19

47.

Santas Claw

V0

Charlie B. 20/12/19

48.

Santa

VE

Eli P. 20/12/19

49.

Plum Jam

V0(Stand)

The L edge of the Elf Cave is a wall just R of the corner. Up this.

Eli P 5/20

50.

It Was Not Me It Was The Other Three

V0

L - R low level traverse of Santa Wall finishing at the huge jug at the bottom of Plum Jam.

The Boyz 5/20

Elf Cave

About 10m right of Santa Wall is a bulging wall with a low juggy rail - this is Elf Cave.

51.

Go Elf Yourself

★V4(SDS)

Start on crimps under bulge, head up arete on pebbles.

R. Schwarz, 2021

52.

Follow the Yellow Elf Road

V3(SDS)

Start around the corner to the left of the Elf Cave. Traverse under the bulge to finish up Elf on the Shelf.

R. Schwarz, 2020

53.

The High Road to Elftown

V2(Stand)

Start on sloper above good rail. up to dish then a big move right into Elf on the Shelf.

J. Schwarz, 2020

54.

Nan Slice

★★V3(Stand)

Start on 'High Road' but go direct from the big pocket - tricky sloping topout.

Eli P 5/20

55.

Elf on the shelf

V2(Hang)

Hang/SDS the big flat jug under the bulges about 10m right of Santa Wall. Heelhook/jughaul/campus to a slopey font-style topout (needs a more thorough clean on top)

DB 6/1/20

56.

Elf on the Shelf Finish

V0

Above Elf on The Shelf is an overhang/scoop. Climb this.

CW 7/21 TR

57.

Damage Control

V2(Hang)

Start as for Elf on the Shelf. Traverse right a couple of moves from the good jugs on EotS across vague groove to top out on small flat edges. Slightly easier finish than its companion.

DB 6/1/20

58.

Every Elf for Himself

V2/3(SDS)

Start on slopey rail under bulge, crank straight up.

R. Schwarz, 2020

59.

Every Elf for Himself Extension

V3

Start on sloper at left hand end of the elf cave. traverse into the start of Every Elf, keeping feet on the vertical rock.

J. Schwarz, 2020

60.

My Right Hand Elf

V3

Start as for Elf on the Shelf but instead of going up traverse right to top out on the far right of the boulder.

J. Schwarz, 2020

61.

Escalater

VE

Up ledges on the R. side of the Elf Cave.

8/20

62.

Wounded Knee

V0(Stand)

Direct over the overhang above the start of Escalater.

CW 7/21

63.

Escalater Direct

VE(Stand)

8/20

Mauritius Wall

The next wall right of Elf Cave

64.

Jesus of Suburbia

V4(SDS)

Start on two left facing sidepulls on lip of cave, out left to crimp then up to lip.

J. Schwarz, 2020

65.

Dodo Deadpoint

V3(SDS)

Sit start from a good left hand side pull, deadpoint to the sloper below the lip, then top out by mantling on the good incut on the lip

Cormac Brannigan 20/1/20

67.

Sugar Glider

V0

To the ledge and through the bulge.

CW 9/20

The Turtle Boulder

Down below the Bush Ranger Cave to the R. of Mauritius Wall.

68.

It's A Rap

V0/1(SDS)

Start at the top of the boulder below a flat hold.

CW 9/20

69.

OMG I'm Flying!

V1/2(SDS)

Start with a sloper for the R. and the diagonal edge for the L.

CW 9/20

70.

China Hack

V0(SDS)

Start on the uncut finger hold on the slab.

CW 9/20

The Turtle.jpeg737172
71.

Touching Cloth

V0(Stand)

Gain the slab from the L by a high step. Then continue more easily to the top.

Conrad W 7/20

72.

Johnny Dawes Direct

V0(Stand)

CW 9/20

73.

Johnny Dawes No Hands

VE(Stand)

R edge of the slab.

PP 7/20

The Potato

About 5m to the right of The Turtle Shell.

The.Potato.jpeg7475
74.

The Absolutist

VE(Stand)

Step onto the slab and up.

PP 9/20

75.

Peter Dutton

V0(Stand)

Blunt rib R. of Absolutist. High kick the Potato Head with your Right foot to start.

D. Meerding 7/20

Log Jam Boulder

3m uphill from the upstream end of Waterside Boulder.

76.

Sunny Side

VO(SDS)

The upstream face. Crouch Start on the flat hold.

PP 8/20

Log.Jam1.jpeg7879778081
77.

Log Jammin'

VE(Stand)

The L. side of the arete.

7/20

78.

Voldemort

VE(Stand)

The R. side of the rib.

7/20

79.

Radio Tuner

V1(Stand)

Start as for Voldemort and traverse R past the twin nipples with very small footholds.

8/20

80.

Twin Nipple Pull

V1(Stand)

Stiff pull onto the two nipples.

8/20

81.

Right Arete

VE

Right arete of boulder.

9/20

Waterside Boulder

The first boulder to be seen from the road.

82.

Bent Pull

V0(Stand)

8/20

83.

Straight Pull

V1(Stand)

Pull up and mantel L of Koala.

CW 12/19

84.

Koala

V2(SDS)

Seam on backside of boulder. Avoid using the small tree.

Conrad W 23/12/19

85.

The Other Begotten Son

★V1(Stand)

The lovely stippled face left of Archangel without grabbing the arete.

Duncan M. 9/20

86.

Archangel

★VE

Left arete of overhanging face.

Eli P 19/12/19

87.

Polpot

VE

Chimney up the corner using the big tree.

Veve F. 2020

88.

V1

V1(Stand)

Stand start up middle of boulder under obvious high groove. Up through groove.

Conrad W 23/12/19

89.

Paul & Conrad

★V2(SDS)

SDS just left of right arete, straight up using arete

Chris W. 23/12/19

90.

Paul & Conrad Extension

★V2(SDS)

Start as for previous problem, finish up V1.

CW

91.

One Hander

V0

Face right of P&Cs Extension.

PP 23/12/19

92.

Left Hander

VE

Edge right of One Hander.

PP 23/12/19

Black Flag Boulder

10m downstream from Waterside Boulder.

93.

That's A Leg Up

V0(Stand)

Chris W. 23/12/19

94.

Minor Threat

★V2

Conrad W. 23/12/19

95.

Black Flag

★V1/2

Straight up the nose

Conrad W. 23/12/19

96.

Top Slip

★★V1/2

Slab direct.

Chris W 23/12/19

97.

Blue Suede Flip Flops

V1

Line between Body Slam and Top Slip. Don't use the big holds on left at top.

Rowen Middendorf. 22/1/20

98.

Body Slam

V1

Right edge of the slab.

Conrad W. 23/12/19

Concerned Citizen Area

Uphill from the Black Flag boulder is the Pseudo-isolation cave, further right is the concerned citizen wall.

99.

Sparks

V5(SDS)

Sit start left arete to a mantle.

M Hitchcock and A Hartshorne 2020

100.

100 Secrets

★★V10(SDS)

Sit start on the downhill side of the boulder on the good rail. Powerful moves lead to a committing mantle.

Ryan. S

101.

Project

★V?(Stand)

From the flat jug on Pseudo-isolation go left on the break.

102.

Pseudo-isolation

★★V5(Hang)

Climb direct through the cave from the well-chalked flat jug. Can start in the back of the cave, but doesn't add any value or difficulty.

M Hitchcock 2020

103.

Unnamed

V1(Stand)

Right side of the cave from LH crimp and RH side pull.

M Hitchcock 2020

104.

Dirt Claw

V1(Stand)

The line 2m left of Concerned Citizen. Name comes from the finishing moves. Probably best to avoid this line...

M Hitchcock 2020

105.

Concerned Citizen

★V4(Stand)

Quirky climbing. Start with the cave edge and pinch.

106.

The Quality of Justice

V0(Stand)

Wander around the arete then step onto the slab.

Boronia Point Area

The Boronia Point area is a small area off the Boronia Point track that starts at the beach.

Park on Kingston Heights and head down the right of way to the Boronia Point track. At the track proper, just past the seat, head down the small track to the water and the bouldering area. Car to boulder should be 5 minutes.

Alternatively park at the yacht club carpark and walk along the track till the seat then follow the small track down. Probably takes a couple of minutes longer.

The rock is compact dolerite that has been belted by the sea.

107.

Unnamed

★V1(SDS)
108.

Centrefold

★★V5(SDS)

Start at the lowest point of the face. Straight up the fold line.

109.

Staple

★V4(SDS)

1m right of Centrefold.

110.

Unnamed

VE(Stand)
112.

Unnamed

V1(SDS)

Start on the slope.

113.

Glossy

★V5(SDS)

Start on the slope and more or less straight up.

Boronia Beach

Boronia beach can be accessed from the Boronia Point track as described in the previous section or via the track from the roundabout on Roslyn Ave. Once at the beach head to the point at the Eastern end.

Boronia beach is compact dolerite with pleasant surroundings, if you are in the area it is worth a visit but the problems done so far aren't particularly inspiring.

114.

Unnamed

V1(SDS)

Awkaward sit to ordinary finish.

115.

One Move

V4(Hang)

Start with both hands on the undercling. Top out to the left.

Walk around the point to find a small roof.

117.

Unnamed

V?(SDS)

Difficult sit.

118.

Dead Penguin

V3(SDS)

Start on the jug and sidepull.
While the rock is compact there is a feeling of unease when climbing.

Kingston Dog Beach Boulder

Just north of the mouth of Brown's Rivulet at Kingston is a freestanding boulder perched on the hillside. The new Alum Cliffs track goes right past it. About half a dozen problems, the best being the prominent arête. There are a couple of other chunks of rock on the hillside.

KINGSTON-2.jpg
KINGSTON.jpg